Ready to POR, still rust in tank

[Rick G]

The first YIKS  box I did  did the usual sanding  and made a gasket .  After that I abandoned the gasket and used  Three bond  around the whole  mateing surface . You can use Yamaha bond or Honda bond , same stuff. Its what factorys use on centre cases during assembly. Its great for lots of things , I even  used it to repair a crack in the bottom of the buss pan I use as a drain pan.

[Tiffanator]

8 Pages! Oh man. I'll go down in history as Most Troublesome Member Ever! YAY!
Anyway, thanks for the tips on the YICS box. I'll pick up some gasket material and RTV today. I'll try both methods since I have two boxes, we'll see which one works for me.
Have to go help the parents put up Christmas decorations this morning, so I'll report in after working this afternoon or tonight.
Tiff.

[Tiffanator]

Well everyone... at this point I'm pretty sure... that these carbs are going to be the death of me. Upon further reading about the carbs last night I learned that I know absolutely nothing about these. I did not know that there were two jets deeply hidden within the carb body, so they didn't get removed when I dipped the carbs. I removed them tonight and shot them with some carb cleaner and put them back in.. not wanting to lose them. However, on the front carb, the screw that plugs one of the jets on the very bottom of the carb is very securely stuck in place. I mean... soaked it in PB for a day and got it with a huge flathead screwdriver and it didn't budge. As hard as I tried... the edges have become somewhat rounded so I can't get a really tight grip on it.. I know.. bull... china shop... that's me.

So... in hopes that the jet in there was happy as a little lark, I mounted the carbs back on the bike. Hooked everything up... hung the pony tank to prime the carbs... nope.. nothing. No fuel getting to the carbs. I pulled the tops off and wiggled and jiggled and finally got the needle behaving how I wanted it. Put the tops back on.. they filled with fuel, brilliant. I twisted the throttle until my wrist hurt... nope... nothing. So I pulled the top off the front carb, took out the accellerator nozzle... obviously no fuel getting to it. Hooked up a little air to the hose and popped out the weight and ball, neither were stuck... and its bone dry in there.
At that point I put everything back together and walked out. I really have no idea what I've done. And whatever I've done I'm pretty consistent cause both carbs are behaving the same. I dipped them and shot EVERY passage over and over with compressed air... even accidentally shot a few bolt holts and got a whoosh of air back in my face. I'm at a loss.
So I leave you tonight as a failure. I'll pick up with this another day, I'm off to study the carb diagram and read everything I can find.
Tiff aka Constipated Carbs.

[kwells]

at this point you may need to use an easy out to get that jet out.

[YellowJacket!]

Did you open the vent on the pony tank?

Also, you may want to tap the carbs a little just in case the floats are stuck.

David

[Tiger]

 :) Tiff'...Your turn for a shot or two 8) Can I recommend a good single malt scotch... 8)

                8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Lucky]

Ok, the slotted screws under the carbs are covers for the pilot jets.  use a tight fitting screwdriver or impact driver to get them out.  if they are too rounded, recut or cut a new slot with a dremil. if that doesn't work, cut flats on the sides of the head with a dremil & grip them with new, small vice grips.

worst case: drill a small hole in the center of the screw, tap 4-40, install a 4-40 nut onto a 4-40 bolt, remove 90% of the head on the bad screw.  install the 4-40 bolt, tighten nut, (nut acts as a jam nut) & turn out bolt & screw.

once the cover screw is out, use a WELL FITTING small screwdriver to remove the pilot jets.  blow them out, clean them out, put everything back together.

again worst case scenario, i can fix you up with replacement carb bottoms.  pm me your address, i'll send out new cover screws anyway, sounds like you'll need them.

What is the lesson learned the Night Vision (hard) way boys & girls?

Too much torque can be a bad thing!  don't gorilla tighten those nuts & bolts, 'just enough' is enough.

--Lucky

[Rick G]

I've never seen a pilot jet cover screw I could'nt  get out , but pilot jets are a differant story. I did a set  for a Visionary in New England, Police officer I think. Maybe Motorplow. The pilot jet would not come out with with rust buster , a screw driver or a reverse twist drill . I ended up selling  him a carb bottom . Sometimes the  minerals in the water, that always finds its way in , causes a nasty version of galvanic corsion, that litteraly welds the two dissimilar metals together.

[YellowJacket!]

Years of varnish build up will do it too. ;D

David

[Tiffanator]

Dave... I tapped on the tops of the carbs, lightly to not damage them and still wasn't getting any flow. I made sure the pony tank was vented. Once I took the tops off and jiggled them around a little the needles broke free and both carbs have filled with fuel now. Its just not getting to the accellerator nozzles.
Tiger... I think I need it... or better yet.. I think the bike needs it, maybe it will loosen up and not be such a pain.   :P
Lucky... thank you thank you thank you! I used my biggest flat head to try to turn them, the fit was tight, I just couldn't push down hard enough to keep the blade in the slot. I soaked it in PB and let it sit, then put the screwdriver back on it and popped the end of the screwdriver with a hammer before trying to turn it. Looks like I'm going to have to try cutting a new slot with a dremel. I was really trying to salvage the bolt, but it doesn't look good for it.  PM will be sent shortly.
Rick, the pilot jets came right out, and most cover screws came out.. its just this one that wants to be difficult.  I was suprised that more bolts weren't stuck on these carbs considering the length of time they have sat and the condition they were in. So much dirt and grime.
Doesn't matter what has caused it to get stuck... its STUCK.  >:( But now that Lucky is setting me up with new screws... oh.. it WILL come out. That screw has until 6pm to live.. then its MINE.
In the meantime I have to drain the oil to check for any metal bits, then I'll probably pull the starter just to make sure I don't have any oil leaking into it. After that fill it all back up with fresh oil. The spark plugs are new but I'll still pull them and give them a good cleaning.
Last really stupid question for the hour. I have read and read and read... I know there are adjustment screws, one of which is at the base of the carbs right above where they go into the boots.. right? It is a long skinny thing that has a spring on it. Now, the other one.. where is it? I'm thinking maybe its the little set screw looking thing that is right below the venturi set screw. Am I close? Or is there another?
Thanks
Tiff.

[kwells]

Tiff,

[Tiffanator]

kwells... thanks so much. A picture is worth a thousand words. That's the screw I was talking about that I was pretty sure was a adjusting screw... thanks for verifying that. Is there another one somewhere?
Thanks.
Tiff.

[kwells]

that's the only adjustment screw...but there is always that sync rod to contend with...

[Tiffanator]

Yay.. thanks. I was stumped about another one. Yes, I'm dreading the sync rod. If you think I'm posting a lot now.. just wait til I try to sync them.  :o
Thanks for all your help.
Tiff.

[Tiffanator]

I am pleased to announce that with some PB blaster, a screwdriver, and some.. uh.. persuasive taps with a hammer, the screw has been removed, jet pulled out and cleaned, and system put back together with anti-seize on the threads. Yay. I accomplished something. I'm still having trouble with the needle sealing off the fuel supply into the bowl, I don't know why. I have the needles in correctly, there are no wear marks on the ends of them, and everything is clean. What am I missing?
Thanks all for the help.
Tiff.

[kwells]

maybe u just need a couple not so used needle valves

[arfa vmax]

hi tiff  i am new to these bikes but have just stripped and rebuilt my carbs with new float seats and needles.  are the o rings round the seats good and have you checked the float hights,both could cause petrol leaking  arfa

[inanecathode]

I second the o-rings. Actually, the ones on the drain screws are what i've had problems with. Mine constantly leaked fuel, and i think so did dave's (one of the daves, not sure which dave) did as well due to a crappy oring around the drain screw.

[Tiffanator]

Hey guys, thanks for the suggestions. The O-rings around the seats and the drain screw are new, no leaks there.  The funny thing is that the needles look great, but I guess I'm just not looking close enough.
Thanks
Tiff.

[kwells]

i think it's the internals in this case...spring loaded doo-hicky