Ready to POR, still rust in tank

[Aelwulf]

These posts are so entertaining!  Thanks, Tiff!!!

David - Those three day paper binges can be done in a day - research included.  Been there, done that (successfully) several times.  Remember - Never put off until tomorrow what can be done next week!

H₂O

Glad I could give you guys a giggle. Dave... you can do it.. I once wrote a 22 page paper in a span of about 3 days. Not fun, not fun at all. I did many 4-5 page papers in a few hours.. those aren't fun either.
Yes, wore the respirator.. didn't fancy odd colored boogers for days.
Next question... is there a special hose that has to be used for the vent lines off the carb and fuel tank or will any plastic hose of that size work? I'm going to replace them but need to know if the stuff from Lowe's will work or if I need to order special stuff. Although it would be in my typical style to put the wrong stuff on there and end up with a melty goo pile under the bike after a few days.   :D

DONE!!  In record time!  (11:30am to 7:30pm)

14 page paper (not including cover sheet and 2 pages of citations) AND.... 14 slide PowerPoint presentation!

Now, if y'all will scuse me, I have a rather large margarita to drink in celebration.  ;D

David

Congrats. :) Those kinda papers are a pain, but if a professor made me do PowerPoint with it I may go find a tower with a high-powered rifle. :P Enough of that to deal with at work.

[Aelwulf]

Hi Tom, I hope I haven't scared you too much with the problems I've been having with my Vision, its really not that bad, I just do everything the hard way.

Ok guys, another quick question. I'm looking at ordering new bearings for the front wheel... in another post Tiger stated that the bearing ID was #6302ZZ... at Dennis Kirk they have #6302-2RS. They are the same size, one is shielded, one is sealed. Neither Dennis Kirk nor JC Whitney have the 6302ZZ bearing. What is the difference? Do I HAVE to use the ZZ or can I use the 2RS? Not a big deal really, I was just ordering a fuel filter from Dennis Kirk and wanted to get the bearings while I was at it instead of having to purchase and pay to ship from another place.
Thanks
Tiff.

Now ya have me a bit curious.  I just got my new front wheel bearings from the Stadium Yamaha site yesterday (only about 4-5 business days, not bad) and although they had the microfiche to choose parts it'd be interesting to see which they had and sent.

I'll be studying your tank threads Tiff, my back-up has started getting a bubble so I now get to add that to my immediate list. :-\ Since I tend to do things the hard way as well it'd be good to read after someone like-minded. ;)

[Aelwulf]

Tiff, your slow return to idle issue sounds very related to poor synchronization.

If it's not the YICS I'd second this one.  After I moved out here and did my first poor excuse of a sync job I wound up with a severe problem of slow return to idle.  I redid the sync with the mixture& idle screws and sync rod (after actualy screwing in the rear screw this time :P ) and once synced the slow return went away.

[Tiger]

I'm looking at ordering new bearings for the front wheel... Tiff.

Tiff'...These are what I use... http://cgi.ebay.ca/Yamaha-XZ550-1982-to-1986-Front-Wheel-Bearings-Kit_W0QQitemZ110188274052QQihZ001QQcategoryZ35601QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Have you got the coolant in and the "V" runnin' yet ???

Next installment please... ;)

                      8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Tiffanator]

Ok... chapter.. uh... what chapter are we on?  Anyway, hooked up my new temp sensor/burp bolt housing from Tiger last night and topped off the fluid in the system. While I was at it my coolant bottle had some serious cracking in it so I coated it with a layer of epoxy to hold it over til I can either get a new one or figure out how to repair.
Next task at hand was fixing where a hose nipple broke off the carb vent T-fitting. I found Lucky's guide to fixing it and had picked up some 1/8" brass tube at a hobby shop. I grabbed the fitting with a pair of vice grips, twisted back and forth to loosen it, and SNAP! the fitting pulled away leaving copper tube stuck in the carb. Well dang it. Moving on... I drilled out the hole, heated the brass tube and slid it in... and it still slides around in the fitting some. No bother, I'll lace it with super glue when I get some. I'm thinking of fabricating a little bit of a bulge or barb on the end of the rod using some epoxy putty so that the hose will stay in place, we'll see how that works out. I still need to get a little bit smaller drill bit than I was using and drill a hole in the new tube for the 90 degree fitting, my limited supply of drill bits didn't include that, must steal it from dad.
So now I have copper tube stuck in the carb, I'm going to try to pull it out with some needle nose vice grips cause I really really don't want to have to drill it out of there. I shot it with a little PB blaster and let it soak, I'll try to get it out tonight.
After all of that I decided to test the rest of my gas tank to see how well the epoxy putty held. After finding 2 spots of very very slight leaks after sanding I wanted to test the other places I sanded for leaks.. and... yeah they leak. So I patched them up again with the putty, making note that I cannot sand them down flush with the bare metal, I'm going to have to leave a thin layer of the epoxy over the top and just feather it out to match the rest. I really have no idea why the POR didn't seal those from the inside, unless my sanding moved the epoxy and cracked the POR, which worries me greatly that now the POR is compromised and I'll be seeing more rust forming. Is it possible to put another layer of POR over the top of this one? Probably not.
So that's how I finished my night.
Tonight I'm going to finish the T-fitting, hook the coolant bottle back up, make a manometer or whatever that thing is, fire up the bike and see if I can't get the carbs synced. Oh... and check the YICS for leaks.

Oh.. and thanks for the link Tiger.. ordered front wheel bearings, fork seals and neck bearings from them. Looks like I have my work cut out for me in the coming weeks.
Tiff.

[louthepou]

Hey Tif, I'm sure I can find a free overflow coolant reservoir, yours for the price of shipping. Let me know if that can help,

Lou

[tben]

Tiff, way to persevere! 8) ;D ;

I know this is a little late in coming but what do you guys think of soldering those holes in the tank? I'm sure brazing would be better but without the equipment for thats kinda tough. With a good prep job couldn't solder hold up? Maybe solder some wire in their then take it down flush with dremel. Its just an idea but it seems like it could solve a lot of hassle other than having to re-por.

[Tiger]

Oh.. and thanks for the link Tiger.. ordered front wheel bearings, fork seals and neck bearings from them. Tiff

8) Your welcome Tiff'. I've used these guy's for the same part's several time's and found them great to deal with. Infact, I just took delivery, a couple of day's ago, of two set's of fork seal's... ::) One set for LilBlaster's recently acquired '83 and a spare set ;)

tben...Brazing would be better but soldering could work, just depends on the size of the hole's that your trying to repair... :-\

                        8)........TIGER....... 8)

[Tiffanator]

tben, I actually did try soldering with very little luck. I have a high temp soldering gun cause I do stained glass work as well. It seemed like with an area as large as the tank the heat dissipated before it got hot enough for the solder to stick to it. I was able to get a few places to stick, but on a large scale it didn't work well. Also I'm trying to cover some pretty gaping holes in this tank. The putty works, I just sanded it down too far and the fuel penetrated around the edges of the patch. Lesson learned... I'll leave some putty and smooth things out with body filler.
Tiff.

[kwells]

and after you fill up the holes send me a blood sample and I can test it at work for ya.  Ever wanted to know how much lead is in your blood?

[Rick G]

Tiff, its really difficult to solder air or rust.   If I were to try soldering arusty gas tank  I'd use a tinners iron  to run a layer of solder on all the areas around  the holes . Then I'd tin some brass sheet, thtas cut to size  and apply it solder side to the tank and go over it with the iron . finally I go around the edges and  seal it up. 
A tinners iron is a large copper that is used by sheet metal mechanics , its heated over a gas flame . Most soldering irons just aren't suitable  for sheet metal work

[inanecathode]

I found most the time its because its the wrong kind of solder. Acid core solder is the only solder that will work, and it does work, but you really need a torch of some sort.

[Rick G]

Inane , the heat from a torch  is too intense for sheet metal that thin, it will either cause it to buckle or burn up, thats why tin knockers (sheet metal mechanics )  use  a soldering copper or tinners iron . You don't want solder with any kind of core  you want bar solder  and a seperate acid flux .  Just ask any old tin knocker (like me)
It you have ever watched an old body man work lead , its amazing he waves the torch back and forth and  moves the lead around with a paddle , but he dosen't have rust or air.

[inanecathode]

Huh, learn something every day :)
I just used a pencil torch and acid core i had sitting around, worked alright for me :o

[Tiffanator]

Ok, so the saga continues as the plot thickens. I happeded to go to Lowe's with dad yesterday and snuck in some drill bits and a fuel filter into the buggy with his stuff.. score some free bits. Last night i finished up the vent fitting and got it in place, hooked up the pony tank, primed the system and tried to get her started. She will run for a few then die. The last time I had choke on pretty much wide open. She fired up and the RPMs shot up. I backed off the choke and she idled a bit. Gave it a little fuel and it was slow to return to idle, gave a little more fuel and recieved a beauty of a flame shooting out of the rear carb and she died... but the flame didn't. I had to blow that out... nice. Then tons of white smoke poured from the rear cylinder up through the carb.  So I shut it down for the night.
So what's the plan now? Well... today... I WAS going to pull the carbs, strip and dip them, pull the YICS and use compressed air to check for leaks, and pull the spark plug from the rear cylinder and see what it looks like. That was before I got roped into helping my parents and brother fix his house up for a christmas party he is having. Now its 2:30, I just got home and I'm tired. So maybe after a short break I'll get back to work.
A fire extinguisher is now on my list of things to buy for the shop... I think I may keep the water hose handy for next time.
Tiff aka "Flamethrower"  :o

[kwells]

Tiff,
I didnt go back and reread where u were with your 'tuning'.  Is your sync rod set as neutral as possible?  It may be that you have one of your carbs still a bit gunked up but you will have to see if you can get your mixture screws to let her run a bit to determine.  Also, you can see if your accelerator nozzles are squirting when u turn the throttle.  Can check that when the airbox  is off and looking down into the carb throats.  By now you have probably checked all these things but they are always a good thing to recheck.
Also if you have your YICS ports capped off it will help with getting it running

[Night Vision]

the white smoke coming up through the rear carb could be unburned fuel vapor.

if the carbs are way out of sync, you may be loading up the rear cylinder and fueling the flame thrower.

cap the YICS ports and check your sync when the bike is running at idle. Eliminate carb sync as your problem.

a new rear plug wouldn't hurt either

[Tiffanator]

Checking in while taking a break from working. Drained and pulled the carbs, stripped them and they are dipping at the moment.
Pulled the YICS off and it leaked from everywhere. I cracked it open and tried to reseal using the goo that was in there, no dice. I got my old YICS and it was sealed around the edges but not chamber to chamber, so I have one that leaks all over and one that leaks internally. The one from Tiger has a gasket, but I'll pick up some new gasket material and that hobby poxy Lucky talks about on his site and have a go at repairing it, in the meantime I'll just cap the lines.
Took out the rear spark plug and it was black and seemed to have gas, oil, and I swear there was a tiny shard of metal on it. Time to drain the oil and check for metal bits. I really hope this engine isn't eating itself. There was some crud around the plug opening so I'm hoping it just picked something up there.
I'm sure the carbs are way out of synch, I just need to get it to run long enough to synch them. Hopefully this dip will do it.
Thanks everyone, we're getting there.. unless I find metal in the oil. Bad.
Tiff.

[YellowJacket!]

Tiff,

I have repaired 4 YICS over the last couple years.  The latest one I am working on belongs to Lucky for his Cafe bike.  I followed the instructions on Luckys site and it worked out well.  I used red RTV and rubberized paper gasket material.
MAke sure you sand down the cut sides of the YICS chamber really good to get a good seal.  I just taped a sheet of 80 grit to my garage floor and sanded in circles.  Cleaned it up with some 120 grit.
I put a bead on all contact areas on both chambers on both sides and sandwiched the gasket between them and clamped it tight.  Works like a charm.

Good Luck!

David

PS, you need to turn this post into a blog or something.  For prosperity.  I think its the longest running ROV thread.  You're famous.  ;D

D

[Lucky]

PS, you need to turn this post into a blog or something.  For prosperity.  I think its the longest running ROV thread.  You're famous.  ;D

it's 10^th out of 61558 posts