Few questions

[cerveza_king]

I'm getting farther along with my bike and got a few questions

I did the starter clutch fix.  Changed the filter and filled it up with oil to test it out and I am hearing a whirring sound.  I assume it is the gears but is it normal?  I hope it is cause I like it.

My tach isn't working.  It worked before i did the starter clutch and even after.  On the first test ride the bike died at the front of my neighborhood.  It ended up being the fuse block.  Nothing would work untill I'd tap on the fuses.  Today I removed the fuses and sanded the terminals.  everything works good now except for the tach.  The only thing i couldn't check was the lights in the gauge cluster because the sun was out.  I did buy a new one(mini blade type) but it sits to tall and the seat hits it.  Gotta find a shorter one.

The last thing is the bike revs up when I turn sharp to the right.  I ran the throttle cable along the handle, outside the headlight bracket, then back thru the frame.  Now it revs less but enough that if I'm doing a sharp right turn in first just above idle it'll rev up enough to make me look dumb.   The cable isn't being pulled away from the throttle.  When I turn the bike the cable bends.  The end of the casing still sits against the throttle bracket but the inner cable is being pulled back.  I'm thinking about getting some zip ties and making the cable tight to the frame but I don't think this will fix it cause it still bends at the neck.

[Lucky]

The engine whirs, personally i don't like it, but to each his (or her) own.

skipping to the throttle cable, there is a thumb adjustment under the switch pod at the top of the cable. try loosening this a bit. you should have 1/4" free play in the grip.

as for the tach, check all your connections, make sure the wire harness isn't pulling & check (wiggle) the connections inside the tach, at the coil & TCI.

--Lucky

[pullshocks]

I had a similar issue with the throttle cable.  It turned out the routing was wrong.  That solved the high revs when the bars were turned.  But I still had problems with it not idling low enough..  What finally got it working right was taking the throttle grip all the way off and lubing things (and of course shooting cable lube into the cable itself).  I did not notice the thumb adjust Lucky mentioned.  I will have to look for that.

[cerveza_king]

Thanks lucky.  I turned the bars to the right and adjusted the knob untill it quit idling high.

I did a quick run thru over the connectors but the tach still isn't working right.  I'll check it out better tomorrow.

[Aelwulf]

I had a similar issue with the throttle cable after Bill got the new one hooked up.  We looked it over and wound up routing it along the frame just under the tank on the right side.  He had to add a fastener but oddly enough it fits and works pretty well there.

[QBS]

The tach gets its signal from one of the spark coil 12 volt power wires (gray, I think).  Check there for wire/connection problems.  The spark coils are located deep in the steering head area.

Glad to see that the fuse prong sanding tip worked for you.

[h2olawyer]

Believe it or not, that's another difference between 82 & 83 visions - the tach sensor wire.  One uses the orange wire, the other the gray.  Just another of those things that makes you say "hunh . . .".

H₂O

[Night Vision]

My tach isn't working........On the first test ride the bike died at the front of my neighborhood.  It ended up being the fuse block.  Nothing would work untill I'd tap on the fuses.  Today I removed the fuses and sanded the terminals.  everything works good now except for the tach. 

first thing I would do is replace/upgrade with a blade type fuse box.... those terminals get brittle after 25 years and are sussectipcal susseptical could fail

the next thing I'd do is what is affectionally called: "Bonding with your Vision"  :-* :-*
its more fun for your Vision than you, and involves going through all the electrical connections, unplugging, cleaning and spraying each one with contact cleaner, WD 40, or similar.......

you could start by doing the two connectors going to the TCI, and then digging into the headlight bucket, finding the tach plug, and clean that one too....
might as well do them all as long as you're in there......  ;)

[YellowJacket!]

When I first got my Vision running, I had never heard another one as a "sound reference" and the whirring sound was a bit disconcerting.  A short while after I got it running, Mutt and Motorplow came over for a burger cookout (legendary in the Vision world) and guess what......  Whirring.  Theirs did it too.  A year later, Lucky moved down here and his bike whirrs as well and when I met serendipity and tailwheel, serendipitys whirred too although tailwheels didn't.  Oh, nevermind, he was riding a Harley Ultraglide.  It just thumpped.
So, based on my observations, the whirring is normal.  It kind of sounds like a little street cruiser with a low-profile blower under the hood.  I think the sound is actually coming from the cam chains.

David

[Walt_M.]

A gentle reminder, the whirring sound is from the straight-cut primary gears but we all know that.

[cerveza_king]

I figured it was the gears but like any new toy, i don't know what is normal.

I did buy a new block but it hits the seat and i'd like to get one that has a cover that can seal it.  I think i'll start to clean the terminals tonight.  Besides the rear brake bar bolts, that is the last major thing before I'll take it out.

I also got my insurance, inspection, tags, and permit(don't have time this week to take the driving test) today so me and my brother in law can go ride on Thursday.  Woo hoo!!!!!!

I'm as happy as a little school girl!!!! ;D ;D ;D

[Lucky]

i thought the whirring was the gerbles on the wheel...

and you can't hear no stinkin whiring over my Macs!

[Rick G]

Hi CKing, dirty,corroded  electrical terminals are a problem with all old bikes . I don't havthe time or patience to disassemble all the connections for a good cleaning . I dipped each  connector in CLR for about one min. then in water for one min. and finished up with a squart of WD-40 . I added a bit of diaelectric grease to prevent further problems . All of a sudden everything worked , turn signals lights , you name it .  Its now standard proceedure on any old bike that I'm working on the electrical. 
Old Yamaha fuse boxes have a tendancy for the clips ,that hold tubular glass fuses, to break off . they get brittle at the 90 deg bend at the bottom. I have used , both a auto parts 4 fuse , tubular glass  fuse block and  one the is intended for  blade fuses . The blade type are much more expensive  but I still like them better.

[Aelwulf]

I dipped each  connector in CLR for about one min. then in water for one min. and finished up with a squart of WD-40 . I added a bit of diaelectric grease to prevent further problems .

I got this method on here and used it to clean my temp sensor connector and others for the fan.  Worked right after that no problems.  I've since been using it whenever I unplug something (found some wires already unplugged in one instance changing a rear light bulb :P ).

[cerveza_king]

Yeah, thats going to happen on Saturday. I didn't have time to do it this week.

I left my house this morning and the bike would run great for a mile and then it lose power.   I ended up having to push it home(2 miles), I'm not kidding here, uphill most of the way.  When I got 100 yards from my driveway I said "what the hell Lets see if it starts."   It starts on the first turn of the starter. >:( >:( >:( >:(

I also got my por 15 in yesterday so that and the terminals might be my weekend.

[QBS]

Sounds like a fuel delivery issue.  Possible fuel tank vent problem.  Next time it happens remove the fuel cap and look signs of tank vacume(hissing when cap is removed).  A good test is to start with a least 2 gals. of gas in the tank, then place a gasoline catch container under the bike, put fuel petcock on prime, open both carb float bowl drain screws and see how long gas drains into the catch container.  If it drains at first and then stops, you've probably got a vent problem.  To verify this, after it stops draining remove the fuel cap and see if draining resumes.  If it does, then you have isolated the problem.

[cerveza_king]

I would'nt have thought of that. 

I'll check that this evening after the turkey, booze, and pie has worn off.

[kiawrench]

i love my whirring sound!  it makes other bike riders think the bike has more than it really does-- some say it sounds like the old turbos did-- i think it was designd in so we remember the bike is running!

either way, it is normal, it wont go away, and easing the gear teeth to quiet it down will result in loss of all motion,,, so keep riding it,, a month from now you wont notice it unless someone asks about it'


cerveza- your shop tool kit needs : clr,pb blaster(rust breaker/lube) a cable lube device and a cooler for the usual 6 pack for bike bonding- all other tools,devices and items you may have are considered add ons . 
  rust ,bad gas ,and wire corrosion are your enemy, killing it as soon as possible is the key to bonding with a vision.