Resurrecting an '83. Need some advice.

[Windjammer]

I picked up the jets at the local Yamaha shop and should have the emulsion tube soon, so I should be able to start putting the carbs back together by this weekend.

A question about dipping it though... It looks extremely clean -no signs of varnish anywhere, like maybe it had been dipped and cleaned when it was taken off the bike. Is it still better to dip it just as a precaution before I put it back on the bike?

If so, what's the recommended carb cleaner / dipping solution? Are there any parts that shouldn't be dipped?

Thanks.

-m@

[Rick G]

Berrymans carb and parts dip is very good,  don't dip anything rubber or plastic.  Yes dip it , they can look very clean ,but be plugged up inside. Don't dip it longer than 20/25 min. There are rubber seals inside on the butterfly shaft , that can't be seen , but will deterorate with extended exposure to carb dip. Also be sure to remove the accelerator spray nozzles , use carb spray to clean and verify cleanleness on them. Some screws may not come out with out damage to the slots , so be prepared to replace any that look shoddy.

[Windjammer]

Ok, thanks. Are there any parts that I should pay special attention to - things that are typically a problem area? Should I dip the petcock? (wow, say that in mixed company some time! ;-)

Berrymans carb and parts dip is very good,  don't dip anything rubber or plastic.  Yes dip it , they can look very clean ,but be plugged up inside. Don't dip it longer than 20/25 min. There are rubber seals inside on the butterfly shaft , that can't be seen , but will deterorate with extended exposure to carb dip. Also be sure to remove the accerator spray nozzles , use carb spray to clean and verify cleanleness on them. Some screws may not come out with out dammage to the slots , so be prepared to replace any that look shoddy.

[Lucky]

I have the 83 jet you need. soon as you figure out which one.  make sure the 'missing' one isn't still in there.

for gods sake be careful with 2 parts of that 83 carb:
1) don't break a float or float post (part that the float pivot pin goes thru)
2) the control valve on top of the rear accelerator pump. it's a multipart valve with a diaphram.  if you try to unscrew the bolt holding the diaphram together it'll probably break.  chances are it's fine anyway, leave it alone.
3) don't bother taking the dual diaphram apart on the back of the petcock (flat plate with 6 screws and 2 round castings on it)  only 2 or 3 of us have the custom homemade tools to recreate that diaphram (& #2 above) & the results are hit or miss.

all these parts are UNOBTANIUM & your very possably screwed without them.

scared yet? good, be scared, but also, don't worry, we won't let an 83 die for some small part...

--Lucky

[Windjammer]

She's coming along... I just did the tank treatment with the Caswell epoxy resin. That's good stuff! I followed the direction of a prior post on ROV, using about 5 gallons of Acetone and letting it soak quite a while. For anyone who does this in the future, be careful with filling your tank to the top with the Acetone. I found out that it expands, and when it does that and burps out of your tank, it'll eat the clear coat and paint right off your tank. Luckily I caught it pretty quickly. Another lessen learned, do NOT collect the drained out Acetone in a plastic container - duh! Thankfully, I got it out of the garage just before it ate through the bottom of the 5 gallon jug.

It's on to carb dipping this weekend. On that subject, my float gaskets seem to be really hardened on. Does anyone have a trick for getting them off? Is it a bad idea to dip the carbs with them on? Is it worth trying to salvage them? They still look pretty good.

Thanks,

-m@

[kwells]

I use a razor blade to get mine off.  Even with a light touch you can score the aluminum so go slow.  Most likely if they are that crusty you won't be able to get them off in one piece.  Might want to look into a siriussonic's kits on ebay. 

[Rick G]

If you don't want to spring for syrusconics kits, I have patterns to  make any gasket on the vision, except the head gaskets. PM me if you want any.

[mattw]

Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I see that there are some OEM ones on ebay right now, so I might bid on those if they stay cheap.

I use a razor blade to get mine off.  Even with a light touch you can score the aluminum so go slow.  Most likely if they are that crusty you won't be able to get them off in one piece.  Might want to look into a siriussonic's kits on ebay. 

[h2olawyer]

Just remember that 82 & 83 carbs do not use the same float bowl gaskets.

H₂O

[mattw]

Damn! The set on ebay now lists them as fitting an 82 or 83. I looked at the picture and compared it - it looks like they're significantly different.

Thanks for pointing that out!

Just remember that 82 & 83 carbs do not use the same float bowl gaskets.

H₂O

[Windjammer]

Huh... I just noticed that my login changed to the one I tried to set up originally. I'm back to Windjammer now.  :-\

[Windjammer]

Hey Rick, I think I'm going to take you up on the gasket patterns offer. I'll PM you my address.
Thanks!

If you don't want to spring for syrusconics kits, I have patterns to  make any gasket on the vision, except the head gaskets. PM me if you want any.

[Windjammer]

Ok, so last night I took the stator cover off. (no stator inside, as the prev owner had pulled it for another bike), but I do have the new one in a box. Seems I don't have any of the mounting bolts, etc. for the case or the stator itself. Can anyone recommend a place to pick up replacements for these at a reasonable price?

Also, can anyone point me to good series of pictures online that covers stator replacement?

Thanks.

-m@

[Rick G]

If you can't get them locally, I can fix you up with the hardware  you need.

[Lucky]

i can't remember the length, standard metric whatever it is, but use hex head bolts & LOCK WASHERS. as the bolts will be a few thousands too long and cause a very annoying & probably detrimental buzzz as the stator vibrates. i know... they are much easier to get off should you ever need to do the job again.  using phillips screws as originaly equiped requires use of an impact driver which risks scarring up the outside of the case...

--Lucky

[Windjammer]

>>Hex head bolts.
That makes sense to me. Since I wasn't the one who originally took the stator out and haven't done one of these before, I took the cover off and slid the stator directly into the rotor - wow! It sucked that little bugger right in there! Then I looked at a few diagrams and figured out that it was supposed to be bolted to the cover. Newbies... :-)

i can't remember the length, standard metric whatever it is, but use hex head bolts & LOCK WASHERS. as the bolts will be a few thousands too long and cause a very annoying & probably detrimental buzzz as the stator vibrates. i know... they are much easier to get off should you ever need to do the job again.  using phillips screws as originaly equiped requires use of an impact driver which risks scarring up the outside of the case...

--Lucky

[QBS]

There are different length bolts, with different length shoulders, used at different locations around the cover perimeter.  I think that there is also some type of barrel shaped thing(possibly for location purposes) that goes between the case and its' cover.  You can replace all of the bolts from the hardware store (I highly recommend socket heads).................BUT, IT IS CRITICAL that the right length with the right shoulder length goes in the right hole.

The Haynes manual recommends making a drawing of the cover gasket on cardboard and sticking each bolt through its' respective hole in the drawing as it it is removed from the engine.

I hope other Forum dudes or dudettes can provide you with data regarding bolt length and locations.

[Lucky]

Woosh! QBS, we meant the stator mounting bolts, but you are right, just answering a question that wasn't asked yet  :D

[Windjammer]

Thanks for pointing that out! I'm missing both the stator mounting bolts AND the cover mount bolts, so it's good info. I'll check to the schematic (maybe on BikeBandit.com?) and see if there's any better info on the lengths.

There are different length bolts, with different length shoulders, used at different locations around the cover perimeter.  I think that there is also some type of barrel shaped thing(possibly for location purposes) that goes between the case and its' cover.  You can replace all of the bolts from the hardware store (I highly recommend socket heads).................BUT, IT IS CRITICAL that the right length with the right shoulder length goes in the right hole.

The Haynes manual recommends making a drawing of the cover gasket on cardboard and sticking each bolt through its' respective hole in the drawing as it it is removed from the engine.

I hope other Forum dudes or dudettes can provide you with data regarding bolt length and locations.

[Rick G]

Windjammer, I have a set of bolts take from a vision I disassembled  I can send them with your gaskets, do you need the dowel pins also?