Catastrophic rear brake failure

[Lucky]

Wow! right away my wife asked about the horse, rofl!

[jasonm.]

A properly fitted and torqued fastener should not have to be replaced annually but I suppose it will afford peace of mind if you're concerned about it.  :)

Wow...replaced anually.  think that is way over-kill for this.What, you don't have a torque wrench?  Here are the reasons the bolts fail. (1) age and corrosion which causes looseness, (2) they have been NOT torqued properly and have been loose for a LONG time ...thus weakening them. Causing metal  fatigue. Just like any other metal getting hammered it eventually breaks. (3)  constantly using the rear brake with condition 2. Oh---I rarely use the rear brake. R1 rotors and SV650 calpiers. But for those who need to use the rear. Yes change the original bolts. But not every year unless you don't have a torque wrench. "Guessing in life , can be a dangerous thing"

[Rick G]

Yamaha's bolts were bought from the lowest bidder . They were crap, I'm amazed they lasted 10 years  let alone 30. They probably snapped off at the thread blank junction .

[Re-Vision]

I once knew a guy who told me he was a woman trapped in a man's body, said it worked out okay because he was a lesbian. Be more perverted than that Roro.      BDC

[Lucky]

Ok, you guys really need to chill... when i said annualy, I didn't mean literaly every year.. 'cmon, a little common sense...

**

[Rikugun]

Common sense has nothing to do with it.

annually  adverb 1.yearly: every year or once a year

[Tiger]

Common sense has nothing to do with it.

annually  adverb 1.yearly: every year or once a year

I don't see the big deal here...if you change them BOTH out ANNUALLY and it saved you pain and suffering at one end of the scale and death at the other end, would not a couple of bucks a year be good insurance!!!

I change them out with grade 8 bolts/washers/nyloc nuts, everytime I remove the back wheel on my 'V'...and 'yes' I do use a torque wrench.

              8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)

[Rikugun]

Tiger I don't have a problem with anyone changing it out annually if they so desire and hope the same folks will allow my opinion it's overkill.  :) Oh, and welcome back BTW.  I'm glad you enjoyed your trip and am a little jealous. Sounds like it was awesome!

Back on point again.....  What seems a little douchey is the assertion that I need to chill, not be so literal, and have no common sense because I don't agree that any random interval of time can be called "annually".  :( (note the use of sad, not angry face) I may be wrong but don't believe that was his original position. The way I see it, either Lucky was unclear as to the meaning of the word or decided to change his position in the face of opposition and needed to retreat a bit. Either I'm OK with if you own it and move on. That's what grownups do.  :D What they shouldn't do is deflect and go on the attack to cover up a very insignificant error.

[Lucky]

You seem to enjoy spending time & effort literalizing much of what i post. I'm surpised you aren't on me about my lack of use of the spell checker too.  if your enjoying the feeling of superiority it seems to be giving you, have at it...

[Re-Vision]

Cut a little slack Rikugun, don't become annually retentive about speaking correctly.     BDC

[Rikugun]

Re-Vision point taken and I appreciate the pun!  Just don't piss down my back and tell me it's rain.  ;) 

[jasonm.]

Common sense has nothing to do with it.

annually  adverb 1.yearly: every year or once a year

I don't see the big deal here...if you change them BOTH out ANNUALLY and it saved you pain and suffering at one end of the scale and death at the other end, would not a couple of bucks a year be good insurance!!!

I change them out with grade 8 bolts/washers/nyloc nuts, everytime I remove the back wheel on my 'V'...and 'yes' I do use a torque wrench.

              8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)

Tiger 8.8 is not likely better than the original bolt. I know you know your hardware better than anyone.  But drilling out the brake arm to 10mm and using a 10.9 would be a true upgrade. Thus eleiminating the WEAK turn down of the bolt. That would be better.   Every bolt on the yamaha' engine cases are 12.9 along with the starter clutch bolts and others. Yamaha is not known for cheap fastener parts....and most others are likely in the 10.9 grade. I always step up a grade when possible. ...Like  I said before, take any bolt and hammer on it and it will break...aka loose brake arm...

[Tiger]

I change them out with grade 8 bolts/washers/nyloc nuts, everytime I remove the back wheel on my 'V'...and 'yes' I do use a torque wrench.

              8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)

Tiger 8.8 is not likely better than the original bolt. 

Jason...Please, re-read my post...GRADE 8, as in standard, which is, for all intents and purpose, 10.9 metric.
All the socket head cap screws will be/should be 12.9. Hex head cap screws (hex bolts) will be either 8.8 or 10.9 metric...but be careful of some off shore cheap shite which is below standard.

I would not endorse drilling out the brake mechanism in any way, for fear of weakening a safety structure point(s)... :-\

8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)

[Rikugun]

Jason, drilling the brake arm is not required. It is already at 10 mm. The brake arm rides on the 10mm shank of the original bolt, not the 8mm threads. That's what I meant by there not being shear forces (from brake application) on the threads. I was guessing the failures occur at the point where the threads meet the shouldered portion on the rear bolt by over zealous 1/2" drive impact gun wielding service techs during tire changes and the like. Perhaps corrosion is also a factor I don't know as I've not examined the failed parts.

I'm sure using 3/8" cap head screws replaced annually (meaning whenever the hell the mood strikes) will be just fine. However the 3/8" fastener will be a slightly loose fit in the 10 mm hole.   :)

[Rick G]

This is exactly why I replace the original stepped hardware,( the step is a major factor in the failure.) which had a bad reputation on all brake drum Yamaha's , during my learning years .
I use a 12.5, 8 mm bolt with an 8 mm case dowel pin for the step. I drill the bolt and use a castleated nut with a cotter pin. We found that over tightening the bolt accelerated the failure, which was more prominent on trail/dirt bikes as they had the rear wheels off more often , for tyre changes.

[jasonm.]

I change them out with grade 8 bolts/washers/nyloc nuts, everytime I remove the back wheel on my 'V'...and 'yes' I do use a torque wrench.

              8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)

Tiger 8.8 is not likely better than the original bolt. 

Jason...Please, re-read my post...GRADE 8, as in standard, which is, for all intents and purpose, 10.9 metric.
All the socket head cap screws will be/should be 12.9. Hex head cap screws (hex bolts) will be either 8.8 or 10.9 metric...but be careful of some off shore cheap shite which is below standard.

I would not endorse drilling out the brake mechanism in any way, for fear of weakening a safety structure point(s)... :-\

8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)

sorry Tiger, I thought you posted 8.8 metric. Yes, grade  8 = 10.9. I am just surprised a metric bolt rated in SAE.  I see early "blindness" has started for me...