82 RJ 10328

[Lucky]

82 RJ 10328
« on: August 25, 2008, 03:56:58 AM » 

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This is the engine and frame that I got from Retro Randy. It seems to be a low mileage motor that had run long enough to get the oil dirty.

It's got the accelerator pump carbs and the small oil filler hole so an enthusiast owned it sometime in it's history. I'm needing a spare motor so I began by pulling the flywheel to give it the peened bolts on the starter clutch. I gave the flywheel puller a 50 ft/lb preload and then smacked the push bolt with an 8 lb sledge and it came loose the first hit. I think a big hammer is the most important part of getting the flywheels loose, 1 smack and it's done.

The three bolts were tight and the end of the threads were center punched at the end of the thread. I'm going with our long and peened bolt at the shop tomorrow. Then a shim check while it's on the bench and it should be ready for installation in Hussein for an iron butt ride I'm getting ready to do.




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[Lucky]

 Re: 82 RJ 10328
« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2008, 10:34:04 PM » 

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The starter clutch bolts had been center punched on the exiting thread. With my hand next to the rachet head a slight twist of the wrist turned them all out.

I cut new bolts to 14.3mm and then center drilled the ends with a center drill about 1/8 inch deep. Tightened the bolts to 40 ft/lbs and then pounded a center punch right down the hole. The ends flared out and locked the bolts.

I'm glad I checked, this flywheel and clutch are otherwise brand new. I think this is a really low mileage motor.


Coil

[Lucky]

 Re: 82 RJ 10328
« Reply #2 on: Today at 06:02:40 AM » 

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Well the valve train looks good, I checked all of the clearances and they are between shims so no changes were needed.

The YICS box leaks between cylinders so I split it. It had no gasket, just a glued groove and it was obvious that the cylinders had been leaking  back and forth. I'm going to sand the two pieces flat on the belt sander and then assemble with "The Right Stuff". I did that on #3747 and its not leaking for 6 months so far. 3747 had the gasket type, though.

I pulled the carbs so I can clean the bowls and inspect them tomorrow. The float drain "T" is broken so I need to check with the dealer for one.


Coil

[Lucky]

Coil,
I only used the gasket on the first YICS, I haven't used one since.

I don't think the drain tube is ava from Yamaha, but if it is, would you post the part #? it's not given a seperate # in the parts fiche.

Thanks, --Lucky

[Rick G]

I have never seen one with a gasket . I made a gasket for the first one I did , but found it counter productive . I sand them flush on a piece of emery cloth taped to a flat surface and seal them with 3 bond .

[Tiger]

 :) To fix the drain tube, that sticks straight out from the front carb, I cut the 1/8" brass tube from an old carb intake manifold, drilled the plastic and epoxied in the donor one...VOILA!!!...been like that now for a couple of years 8)

                 8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Rick G]

I have adapted  a small  vacuum T  , available at any auto parts store , by drilling out the broken stub and slightly modifying the T to fit in the hole.

[h2olawyer]

I did the vacuum "T" fitting repair to the carbs I stole from Tractor to put on the Silver V.  Plugged off the broken piece and put the "T" inline between the carbs.  Seems to work just fine.  Both carbs drain well and no leaks at the broken stub.

H₂O

[QBS]

But, now you can't tell which needle valve is leaking .

[Rick G]

just pull the hoses off the two carbs and see which one is dribbling .

[h2olawyer]

But, now you can't tell which needle valve is leaking .

Actually, you can't tell any easier the way it was hooked up before.  One carb drain flows to the other's fitting, then both drain out the same single hose.  With either setup, you need to remove the hose from one carb for that diagnosis.

H₂O