Depressing Valve lifter tool.

[Lucky]

i'd never do it either, but i've heard it mentioned before...

[Brian Moffet]

I've put 16K on mine and never checked the valves.

I would actually be surprised if they needed changing after 16k.  On a couple of mine needed changing and I hadn't done anything to the valves for over 25k.

Brian

[Blake]

I would actually be surprised if they needed changing after 16k.  On a couple of mine needed changing and I hadn't done anything to the valves for over 25k.

Brian

This is the first time i've ever checked the clearances on these engines.  Think it has 15k or so.  The rear cylinder i checked with my gauges were lower end of spec/slightly too tight.  dont think i'll be changing or even cracking open the other cylinder to check

[h2olawyer]

There are several reasons I haven't checked mine;  One, I haven't had the tool, Two, I know it's a real PITA, Three, I've heard that they don't tend to need adjustment at the manufacturer's suggested intervals (5,000 miles).

I nearly had the local Yamaha dealer do it in the early 90s, when I was taking it out of it's first extended storage period.  They wanted $100 to do it then and would even work on it as it was just a bit over 10 years old at the time.  The bike had about 4,000 miles on it then and it would have been just for my peace of mind.  Decided to save my $$.

H₂O

[82dasvision]

h2o,
  We'll where do I start?  I bought it in 1982, told myself I'd put 5K miles on it and store it for 20 years just to see if it would be a good investment (hahahahahahahahahaha).  One thing led to another and after 7,500 miles, and 22 years in storage, it needs some TLC.  With the parts that I've bought from some for the great people here and e-bay, I should be able to get it back in running condition in no time.  All original. 
What i need to do is:
Rebuild carbs, rebuild fuel pump, rebuild petcock, install fuel filter, rebuild master cylinder and caliper, install new(tapered) head bearings, rebuild starter (replace old seal), replace fork seals, replace starter clutch bolts, and buy a battery.  Oh ya - REPLACE THE REAR BRAKE LINKAGE BOLTS (thanks Lucky).  After that it's go out and have some fun!!  I've always loved the bike, but life seemed to take over, and it became a lower priority...until now!!
  Dave

[Night Vision]

Well, where do I start? 

Rebuild carbs, rebuild fuel pump, rebuild petcock, install fuel filter, rebuild master cylinder and caliper, install new(tapered) head bearings, rebuild starter (replace old seal), replace fork seals, replace starter clutch bolts, and buy a battery.  Oh ya - REPLACE THE REAR BRAKE LINKAGE BOLTS (thanks Lucky).  After that it's go out and have some fun!! 

yep, that's about it...  except for new tires, ss brake line, sintered pads if you like and of course the obligatory stator refreshment

[h2olawyer]

h2o,
  We'll where do I start?  I bought it in 1982, told myself I'd put 5K miles on it and store it for 20 years just to see if it would be a good investment (hahahahahahahahahaha).  One thing led to another and after 7,500 miles, and 22 years in storage, it needs some TLC.  With the parts that I've bought from some for the great people here and e-bay, I should be able to get it back in running condition in no time.  All original. 
What i need to do is:
Rebuild carbs, rebuild fuel pump, rebuild petcock, install fuel filter, rebuild master cylinder and caliper, install new(tapered) head bearings, rebuild starter (replace old seal), replace fork seals, replace starter clutch bolts, and buy a battery.  Oh ya - REPLACE THE REAR BRAKE LINKAGE BOLTS (thanks Lucky).  After that it's go out and have some fun!!  I've always loved the bike, but life seemed to take over, and it became a lower priority...until now!!
  Dave

Glad you've decided to return to V riding!

Mine has had three periods of little use over its life.  I'll go into those details when we meet - no need  to get into it here.  In 2003, I had 4500 miles on mine.  Today, it has over 16000.  I've done almost all the 83 upgrades in the last 5 years & have the 83 tank & carbs in my possession to complete the last of them.  Getting it going after the second long rest period was the toughest - rusted tank, clogged carbs, leaky fork seals, etc.  If it hadn't been for this site, I'd have been totally lost.   ;D  I've also become proficient in stator replacement.   ::) 

If you have some time soon, let's get together & take care of some of the issues you need to address.  I find it easier & more fun to work with someone on these projects - even though (for me, anyway) it may take a little more time than when working alone.  I've got some spare time these days and can swing by with any parts, tools or chemicals you might need to get going on your V.  There is a local source for fork seals & the starter nose seal (Rocky Mountain Supply).  I've bought three sets of fork seals from them and got my first starter nose seal there.  The seals are about $5 each.  Plus, you can just go out & buy them, take them home & install them.  Finding particular oil can be difficult - each cycle shop carries different brands or lines within brands.  Yamaha always has the V oil filter in stock.  But, I seem to give the new parts people an education every year - Fort Collins Motorsports seems to have new ones every few months & they normally aren't as old as the V.

Your project list is about two good days of work if you have all the parts.  The steering bearings can wait a while if necessary.  The tires are probably ready to be replaced before you do more than mild riding.

There are some great roads around here.  Rist Canyon, Poudre Canyon (on Monday - Friday) and the road between Masonville & Stove Prairie are all doable in about an hour from my front door.  Then, out of Lyons is the South St. Vrain Canyon or us 34 up to Estes Park, and the Peak to Peak, where we can stop by to visit inanecathode.  With a little perseverence, you can still get in a few weeks of riding this fall!

H₂O

[Walt_M.]

To anyone thinking about not checking valve adjustment because it is such a pain. If the clearances are too loose, valve timing will be delayed(at best) and performance will suffer and if you rev it harder to make up for that, it can beat up the valves and seats. If the valves are too tight, they may not seal making it harder to start and possibly lead to burning.
Early indication of too tight exhaust is 'popping' in the exhaust on deceleration.
FWIW, when I did mine at around 8K, I had 3 out of tolerance. I changed shims and brought them back in but failed to re-synch the carbs and caused my first case of 'Vision stumble'.

[82dasvision]

h2o,
  I sent you a PM with some details.  The rides sound like fun, and I look forward to it!  We'll get the ol' lady back on the road and get her to stretch her legs again. 
   Dave

[Coil Coyle]

      I've got the tool and a case of shims. I've done them in the bike like the manual says and found the experience stressful and frustrating.

      I find dropping the engine, per Rick_G, and then just pulling the cams, per S_V or V_M a much more restful and enjoyable project.

      I do one cam at a time, mark the chain and sprocket with a paint dot, stick a rolled shop rag under the chain while the cam is out, it's easy to clean the shim hole so I don't worry about debris changing the clearance, clean the cam, reassemble with a smear of permatex silver antiseize or Molylube on the journals and then torque the cam journal bolts to spec.

      There's lots of room for my fingers, a few beers and it's back together. Think; a meditative journey into the essence of the cylinder head engineering, an exploration of beautiful mechanical design, WOW.
  ;D

$0.02
;)
Coil


     

[82dasvision]

Ok, now you got my interest up...how long does it take to pull the engine and adjust them vs. in the bike?
  Dave

[Coil Coyle]

Leave it in the bike, swinging it down with the pipes on pivoting on the lower rear engine mount bolt is Rick_G's method.
He doesn't like to pull the cams, some of us do. The engine drops just enough to give you some space for your hands.

I can't help you on how long it takes. It's around 20 threaded fasteners. Other factors are; where did you lay the feeler gauge, how much TV do you watch while the foam on your beer deflates, how far did you go for the shims, did you really want to keep working on it right now?

I get it done in about six hours with the set of shims on the bench, if the garage is temperate and I'm watching a race on TV, just working the commercial breaks.

$0.02
;)
Coil

[82dasvision]

Coil,
   That's a good enough answer for me ;).  I never even thought about pivoting the engine that way - it sounds like the way to go!  Thanks for the feedback...and off I go again..... ;D ;D :D

[VFan]

you could allways take your measurements & pull the cam instead...

I'm contemplating this option. If I remove the cam tensioner will there be enough slack in the chain for me to lift the cam enough to pop the shim out?

Regards

[arthurdent510]

If you take the tensioner off, you can pull the cams out without having to pull the gears off the end of the cams, if that's what you were asking.

[VFan]

you could allways take your measurements & pull the cam instead...

I noticed that Motorcylecarbs has a XZ550 shim tool listed http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/VALVE_SHIM_TOOL_YAMAHA_XZ550__P11151C843.cfm It's $75 plus shipping

Speaking for myself, because I had already pulled off the carburetors for a cleaning it seemed easier to me to pull cams off than paying $75+ or building a custom shim tool. I had no access issues. So if you're tuning up valve clearances as part of a carb overhaul job, you may want to think about this option. 

[motoracer8]

 Question?? I have access to CNC equipment, and the OE Yamaha tool. Would you guys be willing to buy them if I made some? I can't make just a few, I would probbably have make 30/40 of them to justify the time on the machine. I have no idea what they would cost, but if any of you are interested let me know and I'll see if I can get a ballpark cost.

The OE tool looks like it was cast not machined, they are cheep to make when you cast them.

  Ken G.

[VFan]

Speaking for myself, I would be. Like all NOS parts the shim tool keeps going up at time goes by. I'm not up for a $75 purchase to push down the buckets but I would be interested for half that.

[fret not]

Ken, I would go for one.  Otherwise I will make one with my grinder and dremel.

[funkamongus]

I would be interested in one.