Almost running, aka carb adjustment issues

[Rick G]

The pry bar scares me ! They really need to be finessed off, not pried.

[arthurdent510]

yea, it was really stuck on... the gasket came off in pieces... have stuck to the cover, half stuck to the engine....  it actually looks really clean so far.  No luck getting the starter clutch/rotor off yet.  Any good suggestions on that one?

[Rick G]

You will need a vibration damper puller , for a car.  Remove the centre bolt  and  install the puller . hopefully it will come with 8mm bolts, other wise  you will need to buy some .  Jam the crank by inserting a wheel weight in between the crank gear and the balance shaft gear.
Tighten the centre bolt on the puller until it sings . Put an old socket on the end of the centre bolt ( what ever size it is, there not all the same)  to protect the hex on the end of the bolt and using your biggest hammer , hit it on the socket , with all of your might . Keep tightening the centre bolt as you go. Keep hitting it until it comes off. I have a couple of centre bolts that are corkscrewed from the impact of removing the clutch.  If you have access to a 1/2 inch air impact you can try that , but unless its a really good one , you will do better with the hammer.  Put a box with some rags in it,under the clutch , to catch the springs, rollers and pins.
Having said all this sometimes the come off quite easily , but usually there a bitch.
One other thing , it you can't get it off ,  tighten it as much as possable and leave it  over night, it will be in the box in the AM.

[Night Vision]

yea, it was really stuck on... the gasket came off in pieces... have stuck to the cover, half stuck to the engine....  it actually looks really clean so far.  No luck getting the starter clutch/rotor off yet.  Any good suggestions on that one?

before you attempt to take the rotor/flywheel off..... check to see if the starter clutch can spin first..

there is a gear and dowel that goes between the starter motor and the starter clutch... with the starter out, and the idler gear in, you should be able to spin the starter clutch (one way) with that idler gear

[arthurdent510]

Nothing spins at all....   It's really really clean though.  I expected carnage when I opened the case up, but everything is shiny and there are no metal shavings around.  If the starter clutch bolts went and sized things up, I'd expect a mess, right?

Got the puller in time before sears closed for the night.  What a pain though, you weren't kidding.... left it on, so I'll check on it in the morning, see if it's ready to come off yet...

Thanks for all the help everyone, it's much appreciated!  I'm starting to fear the worst, but hopefully it'll work out...

[arthurdent510]

Ok, got the starter rotor off.  Everything looks good, nothing out of place....  any suggestions on where to look next?  pull the heads off?  transmission?

[Night Vision]

ok, with the rotor/flywheel off.... put the14?mm crank bolt back in.... still no turning of the crank?

[arthurdent510]

Well, there was a problem with that... the puller I used had a small enough shaft where the tip got in and screwed the first couple threads up.  So the crank bolt won't go back in...  got a tap set, but tapping hardened steel isn't easy.  Not sure if I just need a better tap, or what the best way to go about this is...

[Night Vision]

oooooch!

ask Rick if you can borrow one of his back taps  ::)

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200353676_200353676


ps, I'm not sure of interior thread size.... just grabbed 14mm

[arthurdent510]

I have a tap that fits the thread size, it just can't cut it....  was thinking about trying to drill out the first few threads to get past where it's messed up.  Or does that sound like a bad idea?

[Night Vision]

I'll deferr on that method... a rotor at the end of crank is critical to the charging system.... and flywheels are nice to have....

again, just trying to figure out if it's seized or not..

if I recall, aren't there some flats at the end of the crank where the rotor slides onto?

if there are flats... try an open end wrench on it? 

(oh yeah, don't lose that woodruff key, those cams, springs, spring caps, idler gear dowel )

[Rick G]

I wouldn't pull the top end.  Actually the flats are on the rotor hub. You could put it back on , to try to turn the engine over. To use a tap to rethread the crank , turn it in just a bit and then back it out, repeat this until it  turns freely. be sure to lube the tap first.
If that fails  , use a Dremel  with a small stone in it and remove the outermost thread. Be sure to wash all the grindings away with some WD-40. You probably can't cut the end of the crank very well, with a standard high speed drill bit anyway.
I had one puller do this on me too, so I applied a bit of fine valve lapping compound, on the end threads and worked it in and out with a 1/2 inch impact . fixed it right up in a jiffy.

I would  remove the clutch cover , so you can separate the crank and the gearbox. You will need to drain the coolant .   You  need to disassemble the clutch. Once you do , you should than be able to turn the clutch shaft easily , with your fingers.  If the crank won't turn then its either the crank or a top end problem, more likely the crank, tho. To bad you can't get it up here.

[arthurdent510]

Ok, got the engine out.  No luck on getting that tapped yet.  Tried the dremel bit to grind down the threads, but it just schreaded the dremel bit.  Oh well, we'll see if I can find a harder bit...

[Rick G]

Did you use a cutting burr or a grinding stone?  The burr won't do anything , it has to be  a stone.

[arthurdent510]

It was a stone, but I guess it was a softer stone /shrug...  I'll have to stop by the stores sometime this weekend once all the crazies have gone home and see what I can pick up

[Rick G]

Dave , I just sent you a PM.