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Hard starting, can't open choke

Started by Jay, January 09, 2009, 02:59:58 PM

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Jay

My Vision is pretty tough to get going, though it may be the cold. What I can't figure out is why I can't open the choke even after it's warmed up, and have it return to idle. It keeps stalling on me. Closed, it purrs nicely, even after being started up. Would it have anything to do with the fist sized hole in hte side of the one exhaust, or would that not effect it? Thanks.
1982 Yamaha Vision - Restore in progress
1992 Honda Nighthawk CB750 - Salvage Restore
1994 Subaru SVX - Restore in progress
2004 Ford Excursion - Daily driver

kwells

that exhaust hole is a separate deal.  Can weld a plate on there if you want. 

Check your cable.  It may be routed wrong or need a cleaning/lube job.  It is also possible that your choke slide pin is kinked or bent. 

Have you been into the carbs yet?


...a vision is never complete.

www.wellsmoto.com

inanecathode

Sounds like your idle jet(s) are clogged.
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If you can't tell your friend to kiss your ass then they aren't a true friend.
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[jh]

It could even be as simple as the cable not being held in place so there's nothing to give tension to pull the choke open.

speaking of which, my cable holding thingy has a stripped screw holding it in place, anyone know a good way to get it out?
wow!

h2olawyer

What part is stripped?  If it is the screw head, try some vice grips.  If its the threads. try to drill it out & retap the hole for a slightly larger screw.  If rusted / corroded in place, let it soak in some PB Blaster for a while - it may come free easier.

If you can't get vice grips on the head, try using a dremel or small file to make a new screwdriver slot on the head.  Otherwise, grind it down & drill it out.

Hope this helps!

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

Night Vision

Quote from: Jay on January 09, 2009, 02:59:58 PM
My Vision is pretty tough to get going, though it may be the cold. What I can't figure out is why I can't open the choke even after it's warmed up, and have it return to idle. It keeps stalling on me. Closed, it purrs nicely, even after being started up. Would it have anything to do with the fist sized hole in hte side of the one exhaust, or would that not effect it? Thanks.

why are you wanting to apply the choke after it's warmed up?

does the bike idle at all? 1250? 900? rpm?

there is a thumb screw on the right side if you need to increase the idle speed
if it ain't worth doing it the hard way....
it ain't worth doing it at all - Man Law
;D


if it ain't broke..... take it apart and find out why


don't give up.... don't ever give up - Jimmy Valvano

Jay

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I can't open the choke and keep it running. I close the choke, get it started, but even after it's warm if I try to open it the bike will stall. The mechanical function of the choke operates as it should though. I just want to know why I can't return it to normal after the bike is warm without it stalling. I have no idea my idle speed, actually. The tach on my instrument panel does not work. I just got a new one in and it does not work either for the idle. I have no idea why.
1982 Yamaha Vision - Restore in progress
1992 Honda Nighthawk CB750 - Salvage Restore
1994 Subaru SVX - Restore in progress
2004 Ford Excursion - Daily driver

h2olawyer

The "choke" on the Vision is actually a fuel enrichment circuit.  If yours is moving properly, then your carbs are dirty.  There is really no 'open' or 'closed' with this system like the butterfly on a choke.  Try a thorough carb disassembly & cleaning.

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

Tiger

Quote from: inanecathode on January 10, 2009, 01:18:22 AM
Sounds like your idle jet(s) are clogged.

Quote from: h2olawyer on January 11, 2009, 12:11:52 AM
The "choke" on the Vision is actually a fuel enrichment circuit.  If yours is moving properly, then your carbs are dirty.  There is really no 'open' or 'closed' with this system like the butterfly on a choke.  Try a thorough carb disassembly & cleaning.

H2O

:) Get them off and cleaned...its a PITA but needs to be done.

                            8).......TIGER....... 8)
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA lets go again baby !!!!!!

'82 Vision, Pearl Orange finish, lots of up-grades!!!

Jay

Gotcha, thanks! Any idea why my tach isn't working though? I've tried 2 instrument clusters which to me indicates that the problem is elsewhere, I just have no idea where it might be.
1982 Yamaha Vision - Restore in progress
1992 Honda Nighthawk CB750 - Salvage Restore
1994 Subaru SVX - Restore in progress
2004 Ford Excursion - Daily driver

Walt_M.

Check the connections at your TCI. That is where the tach signal comes from.
Whale oil beef hooked!

QBS

The tach gets its signal from one of the low tention spark coil leads.  A wire (Gray?) splits off from one of the two low tension leads that feed the two spark coils.  The two spark coils are located under and behind the steering head area.  Locate the spark coils and clean all low tention connections there, and do not miss cleaning the frame grounding connections.  Bright and shiney everywhere.

Also, what inane said.

inanecathode

Quote from: QBS on January 11, 2009, 01:58:19 PM
The tach gets its signal from one of the low tention spark coil leads.  A wire (Gray?) splits off from one of the two low tension leads that feed the two spark coils.  The two spark coils are located under and behind the steering head area.  Locate the spark coils and clean all low tention connections there, and do not miss cleaning the frame grounding connections.  Bright and shiney everywhere.

Also, what inane said.

Tach gets the signal from the front cylinder trigger wire (gray).
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
If you can't tell your friend to kiss your ass then they aren't a true friend.
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h2olawyer

Actually, the 82 & 83 use different coil wires for the tach signal.  One year it is the orange wire, the other is the grey.  I don't recall which is which at the moment.  I noticed it when I swapped my 82 gauge cluster for an 83 unit.  (another often overlooked difference from 82 to 83 (US) versions)

Figured I'd add this just to deepen the confusion.   :D

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

Jay

It seems that JB Weld was not enough to patch the exhaust. Revved the engine a few times and blew that little tin plate clear off. Either that or 24 hours was not long enough for it to fully harden in 25F temperatures. Oh well. I don't happen to have the wire feed acetelyne welder at the house, so I'll take it over to the shop next time I go and have it done right.
1982 Yamaha Vision - Restore in progress
1992 Honda Nighthawk CB750 - Salvage Restore
1994 Subaru SVX - Restore in progress
2004 Ford Excursion - Daily driver

inanecathode

Quote from: Jay on January 12, 2009, 08:56:47 PM
It seems that JB Weld was not enough to patch the exhaust. Revved the engine a few times and blew that little tin plate clear off. Either that or 24 hours was not long enough for it to fully harden in 25F temperatures. Oh well. I don't happen to have the wire feed acetelyne welder at the house, so I'll take it over to the shop next time I go and have it done right.

Weld it, its the only way to truly fix it. Make sure you get a good weld all the way around, or seal the holes with exhaust putty, cause it'll hiss if you dont do it right and its definitely noticeable.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
If you can't tell your friend to kiss your ass then they aren't a true friend.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Jay

The jb weld had a good seal, but is only good until 600F. I tossed my stick welder a few years ago thinking "when am i ever going to weld again" and now have had 5 separate times in the past 6 months wishing i had a welder. I think i'm going to go buy a wire feed this weekend. Is it possible to get just the one muffler off without removing the entire exhaust?
1982 Yamaha Vision - Restore in progress
1992 Honda Nighthawk CB750 - Salvage Restore
1994 Subaru SVX - Restore in progress
2004 Ford Excursion - Daily driver

Tiger

Quote from: Jay on January 15, 2009, 08:52:53 AM
Is it possible to get just the one muffler off without removing the entire exhaust?

:) If its the OEM stocker system...NO!!! However, if you have MAC's you can remove the mufflers, as well as the baffles, for working/welding... ;)

                 8).......TIGER....... 8)
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA lets go again baby !!!!!!

'82 Vision, Pearl Orange finish, lots of up-grades!!!

Rick G

The left and right mufflers and the crossover are one piece. Good luck!! :D :D :D :D
Rick G
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there in lurks the skid demon
'82.5 Yamaha XZ550 RJ  Vision,
'90 Suzuki VX800, 1990 Suzuki DR350.
'74  XL350   Honda , 77 XL350 Honda, 78 XL350 Honda, '82 XT 200 Yamaha, '67 Yamaha YG1TK, 80cc trail bike

QBS

If it's the stock exhaust system, and depending on the extent and location  of the damage, it might be a lot easier to weld the sytem while it's still attached to the bike.  Especially if the rear wheel is removed and the bike is on some kind of raised stand.

Removing and replacing the stock system can be a real PIA.  The header/manifold connections are not intuitive.  Thourghly investigate all the postings here regarding the exhaust system before you proceed.