A new rider...

[Rick G]

I have one in the shed with the valve covers off, I'll have to pull the  XL350 out and a customers CB750 engine , which is on a cart , out of the shed , but I may be able to get a picture, when I do. Wish me luck ( Bon Chance)

[J-Et.]

That don't look right to me too.... :-\ because it's not the same on the both cylinder...
Good luck Rike, i support you  ;) ! Hope you give me a good news  ::)
Did you think it could be just a problem of the tensor ?
I read on the manual there is a tool to check the tense of the chain ? do you ever see that kind of tool ?

I also think so long as the cover are off, i gonna check the valves game ("jeux au soupapes", the space between the valve and the cam). But i need to by a new tool for check the space because mine is too big.

[J-Et.]

I've got the picture :

[Night Vision]

not good... don't put it back together and start it.

looks like it is off a tooth

do you have a Haynes manual?

[J-Et.]

Hy, Happy new year !
I don't find the meaning of "Haynes".
I got a "service manual". I hope to find everything on it.
I will work on this trouble this week-end....
If you got any idea or advises...

[Walt_M.]

Haynes is the brand name of a publisher of service manuals. If you have the Yamaha factory service manual you will be ok except for there may be an error in the valve clearance chart. Check the technical section in this site for the correct chart.
From the look of the photo, there is something wrong with your cam chain tensioner. Your's has too much slack, in addition to possibly being off time by a tooth.

[J-Et.]

That explain why it's not on my dictionary  ;)
I will check that point on Saturday because the book is with the bike in Orléans.
I will also take off the tensioner to see if it's wrong, used or anything else... I'll probably gonna take a picture of it to get your opinion about it.
I hope to find in the book (and be able to) how to put the chain on the right position.
Thank's again for your help !
J-Et.

[J-Et.]

I check the chain tensors They look band new.
Is that ok that the thing who the tensor push is not realy used but you can see the point where the tenser push (maybe 1mm used). I try to get a picture but it was unpossible with my camera.
I check that point it's the same in both cylinder.
I put back the camchain on the right position on the front cylinder it look better now. (like the rear cylinder)
I try to start and the camchain look working good yet.

So i close the engine put the airbox, the gaz tank, a gaz filter.... in one word everything... And some gaz in the tank. The only thing missing is the coolling liquid.
I know i will remove every thing next week because the valve clearance is a little to low on the 4 intake valves, close to 0.07mm instade of 0.11mm. (but yamaha is close this week so i can't get adjusting pad and i need to get the special tool)

I try to start the engine on our ago but no way... the gaz don't go to the carbs... Is that a pump or something for the first start like in my car or the Vespa ? I don't find it...
What do you advise ?
Should i check something in the carbs ?

[QBS]

Vs' have vacume operated fuel pumps.

When starting a V with empty carbs, begin with 6+ liters of gasoline in the fuel tank,  put the fuel valve in the "Prime" position,  give each carb float bowl light tap to unstick the float, and wait 2 minutes for the fuel/float bowls to fill. 

To check for fuel flow, do as suggested above, then open each float bowl drain screw and look for fuel flow out of the float bowl drain.  Close the drain screws after fuel flow has been established.

[Rick G]

I finally was able to get into the back of the shed. Your cam chain was definitely too loose. I cant say it its out of time , the picture isn't clear enough. Basically the intake and exhaust cam lobes are pointing at each other at about a 45 degree angle on the front cylinder and pointing away from each other on the rear cylinder . If they are you can dial them in with the timing marks. Be certain that the cam chain tension er is working properly.  Bon Chance! ;)

[J-Et.]

No computer yesterday afternoon, I just read your answer...
Rike Thank's a lot for have checked on your bike ! If it's not too much asking could you see on your bike about my previous question about the tensioner impact for being sure it's fine ? If you disagree i will understand...
QBS thank's for the suggest.

So as I said, i modify the tense of the front cylinder Saturday (using the maual) it look as you said Rick. And both cylinder chain look same tense. I try to start to check the chain don't move. It look ok.
So i close the top of cylinder, and try to start. Impossible...

So i take of the gaz filter i add on the gaz-line and put 5 litter of gaz on the tank Sunday morning and then ... it not start but near... make some sound like " Pump pump pump" (not easy to descibe  :P)
After that i take off the gaz tank and take a look to the carbs. the rear one look good and the front one look a bit dirty. I clean them as i can (helped by a compressor). I remove the float bowl drain screw (i suppose it's that one) the rear one look clean but the front one is dirty. I clean what i can on both carbs and the carbs look working much better.
So I put the gaz tank and air box and that time it still try to start but more easily... except once it start for a fiew seconds (maybe 3....). I can't describe how much dirty (i don't know the word for the darkness of the exhaust) who get on the wall, my dad will like the new color of the wall  ::)
After a fiew more try but no start (sound close to), i stop to try starting.

Take everything off (gaz tank, ...) re-open the top of the cylinder and check the oil is right coming on it. (as said on the manual) that point is very fine.
Because of the darkness, the cold (and a stupid scratch of my right hand, my poor fingers) i don't check if the camchain is still good, i do that next time.

I can said that the rear cylinder only started because the exhaust is warm and the front exhaust is cold. I checked the compression before i remove the gaz tank. The rear one (quite warm) look fine, 120 close to the manual, the front one (cold) is still around 80.

Do you think it could still be a trouble on the front cylinder ? only a carb trouble ?
I try to get off the carbs  to clean them but i don't find the right way... i disconnect the pipes and YICS, screw off the admission coil but they won't leave the bike... Can i clean them inside without take them off ?
Any advises about this front cylinder no-fire (or miss-fire) ? sorry to not have checked if the front cylinder camchain is still right it will not help for diagnostic....

J-Et.

[J-Et.]

I forgot to said that after so much try of starting the bike, the batterie is off (good enough for the lights but no more for start, the charging machine tell me it's off). I don't knew if it's normal or not. I suppose it is normal but you'r more experienced than me about that...

[J-Et.]

I was realy not well awake this morning...
A last question about the ignition valve clearance. Do you think i have to update it ? (is suppose i have to) but did i need the special tool or can i use something else ? Do you think i can find it on a yamaha shop ? (i suppose no)
I suppose it is not the cause of the front miss-fire because it's near the same values on the both cylinder...

[Walt_M.]

I hate to tell you this and you do not want to hear it but you must remove and disassemble your carbs and clean them. I know it is not easy but you have to do it. And, as most people find out the hard way, clean enough is not good enough. They must have all of the passages thoroughly clean. A little bit of dirt goes a long way toward making the bike start and run poorly.
And one more thing, because it is the front cylinder not firing, make sure you disconnect the rev limiter wire at the ignition box. I believe it is the yellow/black, check your manual. The rev limiter can fail and it cuts off ignition to the front cylinder.
Good luck.

[J-Et.]

Hy walt

I suppose i don't have the choice... I gonna remove the carbs next time...
(when i see how much peoples get carbs trouble on the forum after only 4 years not running, with the 18 years i was sure to get carb troubles...)
If i want use the bike for every day i prefer do the best i can now and don't get in trouble later... So i will explore the forum for more information about how to remove them...

I disconnect anything. I will see that point too. I read there is a rev limiter but i don't think it can fail... I was thinking the rev limiter was on the rear cylinder ? my memory maybe wrong but i think there is the yellow/black too....
There is maybe something wrong on the electrical system because the neutral light don't turn on.
You made me think to an other question. There is a black cable on the ignition box but ... nothing to connect with ?? i don't find it on the manual...

J-Et.

[Tiger]

 :) J-Et, you have to remove the carb's from the left (gauche) side of the Vision...

Start by removing the air filter box...then bend the metal tabs on the frame that hold the wire harness to it, and move the harness out a wee bit.
Once you have everything disconnected, lift the carbs up and forward a little...then tilt the carbs to the left and get the back carb to exit the frame first...Voila!!!

I and a few others have disconnected the rev limiter wire from the back of the gauge cluster... ;)

                   8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Rick G]

J-Et, you will find it easier if you separate  the fuel pump from the carbs , before you try to remove them from the frame. Just remove the  8mm nuts on the mounting bracket , the hoses and lift it up. It makes a smaller package  to tip over and remove through the left side of the frame. You must go through the carbs , as the Xz550 is very fussy about clean carbs.

[J-Et.]

Hy, Thank's for the method. it will help !
I'm a bit scared to broke the black thing between the carbs and the cylinder when i take off the carbs. Could you tell me the name in english for searching more information about that ?
I don't understand "gauge cluster" the translation i get made non-sens... ???
I try to contact a yamaha dealer today for the valve adjusting materials.
I hope after that and the carb cleaning the both cylinder will start as brand new... ;)

[h2olawyer]

Black thing between carburetor & cylinder = intake boot (or intake manifold).

Gauge cluster = speedometer, tachometer, temperature gauge and the housing surrounding it all.

The valve shim tool is not made any longer.  Even the aftermarket company stopped making it.  I am currently looking into getting some machined.

H₂O

[J-Et.]

I better understand now...
Thank's for the translation, i find more informations on the archives.
The Yamaha shop was closed. For the valve shim tool i find on lucky's site how to rebuid one. (i have to convert the inch to mm, but i think one size is missing on the side view...)
I will try next week-end if i could use something else otherwise i will build one...
J-Et.