Littlefuse conversion..

[Dave T.]

I made a special trip to PEP BOYS this last weekend and purchased the "recommended new" Vision fuse block, since I had the original throw me off this summer (the fuse had brown gook on the end, it ended up bad). Anyway, it does not fit perfectly. I had to (an it needs a little more) trim out a section of plastic on my seat to get the higher littlefuse setup to work.

When I sit on it it's going to need even more clearance. Anyone out there do something I missed? There is a little grove in the seat base and the fuseblock is aligned with it. Looks like I have to grind off the screws so they don't rub the tire if the suspension bottoms out.

Any other suggestions?

Tks in advance,
Dave

[Lucky]

I'm very surprised, i've done it on both an 82 & 83 with no problem.  Two thoughts, one, they changed the part, or two, there is something misaligned on your bike. (frame or seat pan?)  the ones I did both went in the stock location.
--Lucky

[Jeff]

D.T.
 I did mine last year and didn't have to cut anything. I mounted mine where the old one came out and it has plenty of space.  I used the pepboys part as Lucky suggested.

[Dave T.]

Well, here is a picture. I guess a pic is worth 1000 words? Well, maybe only 100 in this case.



The top of the fuseblock (even without the clear plastic cover) hits the seat base so it will not close properly.

Compare to yours J & L and see what U think...

Tks,
D

[Jeff]

Just check and I mounted mine lower on the fender.  I mounted just up from the little tray so I can get the fuses out.  The connections to the fusebox are actually under the tray. I'll try to snag the camera from work and snap you a pic.
 Justed check R/R the other day as you suggested and have a shorted diode...Dam!! >:( Local yard has used one for $50.  If I have a snow day from work tommarrow I'm up at the yard.. ;D
j

[Dave T.]

I mounted in the "old" fuseblock spot first, but the seat base hit the top of the "new" one. Then I moved it to the above location, and it still hits. If I move it down, I will have to move the wiring harness (spaghetti mess) also; if possible. I may just hack more out of the seat base.

Well, It's better in the long run that U found a bad diode in the R/R. All the manuals I have read have good testing methods for checking the diodes, but not the SCR. I assume by having a shorted diode that you had low resistance in both current directions. You have to check all 6. Current flow in one direction, none in the other. I got a R/R in my local boneyard for $35 this summer. Wonder why price is so high? Just because they can would be my guess....  

[Jeff]

I cut back my wiring harness to make it neat then used little ty-wraps to dress it up.  I found one mistake on mine when I check though...I didn't relable what fuse went where..I had to dig the old one out of my box so I could see how to relabel it.
 SNOW DAY....Yahooo..No work today  :) I called the yard and they were open so I jumped in the truck and was off in 4X4. Seems funny huh..4X4 in the snow to get a v part...hummm must be a junkie!  they looked up the new price and wanted half!  $60  :o but I had it in my hand and couldn't say no especially after they tested it.  Hurried home and installed and she's good to go  14.3 to 14.5vdc.  Now if you and Lucky could kindly take the snow back up North I could ride...LOL  ;D
j

[bikeseamus]

 A real cheap and foolproof fix for the old style fusebox problem is to solder flat female electrical connectors on the end of the fuse wires, after you have clipped off and heaved the old ones as far away as possible. New style bayonet fuses then plug right in. You can even buy the connectors in lotsa colors to keep your circuits color consistent, and keep the whole updated mess in the old fusebox with room for spares. Any old bike or car will benefit from this. I don't think most gas stations even stock the old tube fuses anymore.... could be a problem on the road.

[jasonm.]

As others have said. The fuse box needs to be mounted closer to the shock. Sorry to hear you cut your seat.