New To The Vision (Not really anymore, but working it out)

[h2olawyer]

Synch to the gauge - you want equal vacuum from both carbs (or as close to it as you can get).  I may be able to find a day to get over & see if we can figure it out.  We had it working great once!  Guess some crap loosened from someplace inside the carbs and lodged in the mains.  We all keep saying it - clean them right the first time.  However, that often entails dipping them a second time - mine did.

As for your electrical woes.  Get yourself either a new fuseblock or some inline fuse holders (modern style, not glass tube).  Replace ALL the existing fuse holders & the ones remaining in the fuse box.  Discard the old fuseblock.  It is the most likely cause of your electrical woes.  When you do the replacement, solder the connections & protect them with heat shrink tubing.

H₂O

[inanecathode]

Right on dude. I got a fuse block, just need some fuses and the nerve to start slicing and dicing :o
You're more than welcome to come over and get frustrated with me :D
(hopefully it wont rain :o)

[h2olawyer]

It ALWAYS rains when I go see you!   ::)  I'll see if I can find a day this week that has a lower chance of afternoon thunderstorms.

H₂O

[inanecathode]

Lol, i'm in the RAIN zone.

[zore]

This is what I do when i put a new set of carbs together.  Get a base line sync of the carbs with them bolted on and the engine off.  Take the idle speed knob and turn it all the way out until it no longer touches the throttle plate assembly but keep track on how many turns you turned it out.  Now I loosen the sync rod and turn it until it feels loose.  This will insure that both throttle plates are seated.  Turn the idle speed adjustment knob back in to where it was before.  This is a good baseline.  Next I get the fuel spray right by adjusting the fuel pump until i get a good steady stream thru out the entire throttle movement.

After started the bike and letting it warm up, I now start fiddling with idle mixture.  Working on one carb at a time, the idea is to adjust the screws and listen to the idle.  It should begin to raise as you adjust.  As the raises, turn the idle speed knob to lower the idle again.  Do this for each carb and you should be pretty close.   If it's running fine and is responsive, I may elect to leave the sync alone. 

[inanecathode]

It's on like donkey kong kids, i've got 6 hours before work, dark sunglasses, and carb dip.
Rawr

Also, i think i may end up dropping the fliff on new carb boots, i noticed today when looking at the front one that it's cracked even worse than it was before. I guess the rubber gets brittle, and i smacked it with the carbs going in :/ I noticed while taking the out rear one out i nudged it with a deadblow (seriously gently, not enough to break anything normally) and the side just totally caved it where all the cracks go.

[inanecathode]

Just for giggles, heres a vid of what the V does (gets worse when it heats up more)

[zore]

Because your idle mixture isn't correct, you have been forced to compensate by turning the idle knob in to get it to idle at the rpm you want.  The method I used to do my carbs is a good starting point.  If you've been just turning and adjusting randomly to try to get it to run, you'll just make things worse.  I'd get it back to a good base position.  Make sure the yics is blocked and spray some wd40 on those intake boots while it's running to see if that does anything.  If the engine speed changes, you've got a leak.  (Don't over do it with the wd40.)

[inanecathode]

Wee! Carbs are now dipped and put back together (thanks a tonne kwells!). He brought up a good point of which i agree, the front and rear cylinders and carbs are different. They're differently jetted, and with the sync rod off, you can see that the rear carb butterfly allows air past it (you can see light through it, and its the same way on the other carbs we looked at). I think (he does too) that you can't really properly sync them if the carbs are different. The vision is different, than, say, a cb750, as its not the same engine over 4 times (or two in this case) that the front and rear cylinder operate differently from eachother.
That being said, i think i'll try zore's method to zero everything out. He's right, it has been kinda a crap shoot trying to get things right, time to take it all back to zero and restart :D
Perchance h2o will assist in this stage (everyone needs a good excuse to ride anyway :))

[Night Vision]

you can still sync the carbs with the $4 manometer even though they are jetted differently. Lots of us have.

[zore]

I'm going to disagree with you here.  The castings for the front and rear carb are identical with the only differences in final machineing.  The front carb is machined wider about half  inch  deep.  After that, the throat of the carb is the exact same size.  The throttle plates are also the same number and size.

With the throttle idle adjustment knob all the way out and the linkage apart, they should be completely closed.  If one of the throttle plates is not all the way closed, then you either have the idle adjustment knob still touching the throttle linkage or a misaligned plate.  The idle adjustment knob need to be backed off all the way and can not touch the linkage or the throttle plate will not close all the way.  You'll find that your final adjustment wont be all that far from here.

[kwells]

that's probably what it was.  I didnt mess with the throttle setting screw.  it may have been slightly touching and thus opening the butterfly slightly.  The carbs themselves are actually the same.  It's just fine tuning at this point.

[Lucky]

listening to the video, your carbs are out of synq...i can hear it....

[inanecathode]

Guage said they were in sync shortly before taking that video though o_O

Anyhow, tomorrow- er, later today (stupid closing shift) the carbs will go on, and i'll try zore's method in hopes of totally zeroing out the fuel system on this instead of making changes ontop of unknown variables.

[zore]

Your high idle when you let off the throttle sounds also like a idle mixture issue or possible vacum leak.   All the adjustment in the world wont correct a vacum leak so make sure the system is sealed.

[zore]

Wait a minute.  You are new to the vision but have almost 500 posts?  ;D.

[Brian Moffet]

And I still have less than a 1000  ;D

[h2olawyer]

Some people have turned on the "maximum verbosity" switch, while others have not.   ;D

H₂O

[Aelwulf]

Spam post spam post!!! :D

I've got quite a few for being a newer one as well (granted not 500 but still...) but I mostly just had a lot of questions and such for the process of *hopefully* getting mine to the working stage.  Now that that should be nigh *knocks on wood* I've gone more into lurker/listening mode for the moment. ;)

[Night Vision]

OK,  I think I've got your problem narrowed down to 1 or 2 possibilities....

1) you have way too many keys on your key chain and they are shorting out your ignition switch....

or

2) your massive vacuum leak is at the port on the rear cylinder where the YICS box is supposed to be connected to..... is not capped

look about 30 secs into the video and you can see that the rear cylinder port near the intake boot is not capped. Either a non leaking YICS box needs to be connected by hose to that nipple or it needs to be plugged, capped, sealed or constipated in order to sync/tune the carbs...

same deal with the port on the front cylinder K?