To Do List for new non-running 82 Vision

[acee125]

Hi. First off I want to say thanks to all of you that contribute to the forum as it's an awesome resource for all things Vision.

Yesterday I was given a 1982 Yamaha Vision. It had been sitting in the back corner of a garage since 1995. Obviously it does not run. I have started making a " to do list" of stuff that needs to be done to make it run and driveable. Since I just picked it up yesterday I have not had time to inspect it much.

If you guys could look through my list and tell me if you see anything that may need to be added let me know. If you have any tips or tricks feel free to post them as well. Or if there's anything at all that would be worth while to know about the Vision please post it. I have a repair manual on order and should be here on Saturday.  Also, the tires seem to be in decent shape, I didn't notice any cracks from old age when I looked at them briefly. Should I replace them anyway? Thanks again...


Clean carbs
Replace air filter
Replace fuel line
Replace fuel filter
Lube clutch cable
Lube throttle cable
Fix throttle
Fill the tires with air
Replace spark plugs
Change oil
Bleed brakes
Replace rear brake brace bar bolts
Change shaft drive oil
Install new Battery
Solder stator wires
Check/clean electrical connections
Replace coolant

[Lucky]

you may not have a fuel filter to replace, they didn't come with 'em.
also, clean out the tank, check for leaks (probable at the 4 corners) then line the tank with POR-15 or Caswell.
replace the tires, they are now dangerous.
got riding gear?
clean the carbs, & clean the carbs

[Night Vision]

that and..... (my list)

*post pics (we can predict your future from a couple of pixels)

tell us where you're from (there might be a thirsty member near you)




*offsite host ie photobucket

[acee125]

What tires do you recommend?
I also live in the Twin Cites area of Minnesota
And yes, I actually have a great set of riding gear. My first bike, a 1997 Honda CBR600 was stolen from me in May of 2005
Thanks for the advice so far, I'll get some pics up as soon as I can.

[QBS]

Clean carbs
Replace air filter: Might be clean enough to salvage if reverse blown.

Replace fuel line
Replace fuel filter: if there is no inline fuel filter already installed, install one.  Install inline fuel cut off valve.
Lube clutch cable
Lube throttle cable
Fix throttle: what's wrong with the throttle?
Fill the tires with air
Replace spark plugs: Vs are easy on plugs, try cleaning with a wire brush, then gap.
Change oil: and filter
Bleed brakes: why?
Replace rear brake brace bar bolts
Change shaft drive oil
Install new Battery: get a Wal-Mart cheapie...AND....a Battery Tender Jr.
Solder stator wires: do the the white wire continuity test first
Check/clean electrical connections
Replace coolant: study up on "burping" at the T connector.  Clean the radiator fan control wire connection while there.


Be prepared for a stuck clutch...no big deal.
Replace starter brushes and oil seal...slightly bigger deal.
Reattach starter clutch..before..hard wiring the stator coil...semi big deal.

How many miles on the bike?  Please provide as much of the bikes' maintenance history as you know.

[acee125]

Clean carbs
Replace air filter: Might be clean enough to salvage if reverse blown.

Replace fuel line
Replace fuel filter: if there is no inline fuel filter already installed, install one.  Install inline fuel cut off valve.
Lube clutch cable
Lube throttle cable
Fix throttle: what's wrong with the throttle?
Fill the tires with air
Replace spark plugs: Vs are easy on plugs, try cleaning with a wire brush, then gap.
Change oil: and filter
Bleed brakes: why?
Replace rear brake brace bar bolts
Change shaft drive oil
Install new Battery: get a Wal-Mart cheapie...AND....a Battery Tender Jr.
Solder stator wires: do the the white wire continuity test first
Check/clean electrical connections
Replace coolant: study up on "burping" at the T connector.  Clean the radiator fan control wire connection while there.


Be prepared for a stuck clutch...no big deal.
Replace starter brushes and oil seal...slightly bigger deal.
Reattach starter clutch..before..hard wiring the stator coil...semi big deal.

How many miles on the bike?  Please provide as much of the bikes' maintenance history as you know.

Bleed brakes: I figure fresh fluid is better than 15yr fluid

Fix throttle: It wouldn't move when I tried twisting it. Frozen slides maybe?

There's a little over 17k on the bike. I have almost no idea of the maintenance history. The guy that gave it to me said that his cousin was trying to fix something oil related I think and ended up breaking "something" instead. The former owner was very vauge.

There was an extra gasket (float bowl gasket...?) and some spare seals in a bag on the bike. They're original Yamaha parts, I haven't run the numbers yet to find out where they go. That might point me in the right direction as to what was broken by his cousin.

Is it a big deal not to replace the starter brushes and seal or should I replace them before I even try to start the bike?

[QBS]

Regarding replacing the starter motor brushes and the spring seal: It won't hurt anything to attempt to start the bike without upgrading the starter.  Unless a previous owner did the starter upgrade (not likely),in all likelyhood, the bike will not crank at all or only very slowly regardless of the state of your battery charge.

The oil needs to be drained to remove the starter, so incorporate your oil change into the starter project.  Most V starters need this upgrade by 10k miles.  Once done it's almost a life long repair, with the exception of replacing starter brushes from time to time.  They are a consumable item.

FYI: the starter seal issue is a factory defect.  For whatever reason, Yamaha shot themselves in the foot by specifying a starter whose oil seal is not appropriate for a below the oil line application.  Once the correct seal is installed the problem is permanently fixed.

[acee125]

Though I'm not surprized. I'm having a really hard time finding parts online for this bike. Where should I get the starter brushes and seal? Are they still available from Yamaha?

[QBS]

Do a search on "spring seal" to locate sourcing data.  You do not need OEM parts or motorcycle repair shop services.  Most bike dealerships will not want to mess with your problem.  Brushes can be had from an experianced automotive alternator/starter motor repair/rebuild shop.  Take the motor into them and explain that it needs brushes.  Generic replacement brushes can be easily ground down to fit.  I've had mine done twice.  Most paid was $25.00.  Should not be a big deal.  If your shop is making big deal noises, find another shop.

[Tiger]

 :) Remove and flush the gas tank, remove and dip the carbs, reinstall using new gas and vacuum line's/in-line gas filter, fill with fresh gas and set petcock to prime for a couple of minute's...Install a new, fully charged battery...Also New D8EA spark plugs/plug wire's/plug cap's (= $25.00)...now you have fuel and a spark source...Insert key, switch on and give her a try. Each Vision has a different starting sequence...i.e. Full/half choke, 1/2/3 twists of the throttle prior to cranking, etc.

Once you get her started and have THAT grin on your face...you can work from there...Good luck, welcome to the ROV & keep us posted... 8)

                      8).......TIGER....... 8)
p.s. Check all fluid levels prior to starting... ::)

                   

[Rick G]

Acee, the vision has no slides  or diaphragms , the carbs are  automotive in concept and have butterfly valves.
If you need seals , just go to Gopher bearing in St Paul.
I used to live in Columbia Heights , Bought my first V in Brooklyn Park.  I'll see if I can reach  any of my old vision buddies  and introduce you.  exactly where do you live in the Twin Cities?

[acee125]

Acee, the vision has no slides  or diaphragms , the carbs are  automotive in concept and have butterfly valves.
If you need seals , just go to Gopher bearing in St Paul.
I used to live in Columbia Heights , Bought my first V in Brooklyn Park.  I'll see if I can reach  any of my old vision buddies  and introduce you.  exactly where do you live in the Twin Cities?

Thanks for the info, I live in White Bear Lake. It's in the Northeast side of the cites.

Sorry for the ignorant question but what seals are you referring to that I can get at Gopher Bearing in St Paul? I would assume that they're for the carburetors?

I also found out what the "random" gasket and seal are for. They're the water pump o-ring and mechanical seal that goes on the impeller shaft.

I hope to dig into the bike more this weekend.

[acee125]

Thanks again to all of you for your advice. I'll do my best to keep you updated and get some pics up ASAP.

[don_vanecek]

Acee, everything in all the previous posts are true but I'm going to advise you just alittle different: making sure you have safe oil in the crankcase, take the tank off, put a battery in it, IF it cranks OK, then put alittle raw gas down the carbs and see if it runs for at least a second or two.

IF you have success for that split second of running, then I would do all the other things the good people have posted. (now give it a day or two to see who disagrees with me).  It could be of course that you may have to fix the starter motor first before you can see if the bike will crank over and has a spark.

Good Luck, hope the lakes up there start the thaw out, myself and my brothers are going up to the Park Rapids area the third week in May, I think MN is a neat State!

[Aelwulf]

Don't forget to do the starter clutch bolt fix while doing the starter stuff.  Odds are if some of the other stuff mentioned hasn't been done then that certainly hasn't.  In theory you might have more time on it than some, I gotmine with around 18k miles and it's almost up to 22k now and still needs that and the starter stuff do ne (in the works for the near future finally) so it might not be critical but there's always the chance it could go bad sooner than mine.

Also check the fuse box and if you get a minute and about $10 then see about switching it for the bladed fuse type.  I'm a novice and it wasn't too big a deal for me to deal (just have to electrical tape over the connections, got a bit more rubber off the wires than intended).  Alos, and I can about guarantee I'll get yelled at for this on here *g* but I just did agood double-crimp job on mine so far and it's worked right off the bat.  I'll likely solder it down the line once the rest of the things are done but for now I've no worries.  I figure if crimps can work on 20-30 million dollar aircraft parts they can work on a $100 bike. ;)

Double check your connections and lights.  After replacing my license plate holder I discovered the wires for the plate light weren't even connected under the seat.  If you do all your connections at once this shouldn't be an issue, I'm a bad person for doing mine as I go. :P

Browse around on the forums, there's been a few places.  eBay is often a good source.  Dennis Kirk can have some stuff.  Bike Bandit too although IIRC there's been some customer service/shipping issues there.  There's another site just reposted in the throttle cable thread that has a fair bit of stuff.  There's also always the stealership, they still have some things although typically a bit more.

As for tires there are various ones that'd fit but I think a good number of folks here use Avons.  I think the ones I'm looking at getting at Avon RoadRiders?  (Or RoadRunners, Road something but not the race-type ones per se).  Those I'm actually getting through the dealership since they install for free and I don't have the tools.  Plus after tax (due to being stationed in Cali, grr) and shipping it'll actually be cheaper there for once.

[Night Vision]

I also found out what the "random" gasket and seal are for. They're the water pump o-ring and mechanical seal that goes on the impeller shaft.

good, keep 'em. if you ever take off the right engine case... you'll need 'em

Acee, everything in all the previous posts are true but I'm going to advise you just alittle different: making sure you have safe oil in the crankcase, take the tank off, put a battery in it, IF it cranks OK, then put alittle raw gas down the carbs and see if it runs for at least a second or two.

IF you have success for that split second of running, then I would do all the other things the good people have posted. (now give it a day or two to see who disagrees with me).  It could be of course that you may have to fix the starter motor first before you can see if the bike will crank over and has a spark.

agreed.. first things first

[Rick G]

Acee ,you can get fork seals , starter seals , the seal inside the   clutch cover (right outer case) that goes on the end of the crankshaft (# 26 in the diagram) wheel bearing seals  , from Gopher Bearing.Just take your old seal with you.
I worked in Little Canada and lived  Maplewood for a time too, just down the road from you.

[acee125]

Rick G- Thanks for the info.

Well, a few friends and I started tearing into the bike last night. Here's a list of what we accomplished

Front wheel unstuck: we cracked the bleeder valve and it loosened right up.

Got the butterfly's free: They were just slightly crusted over, a quick shot of brake cleaner freed them up.

Changed the plugs and put anti-seize on the new ones.

Drained the oil and changed the filter: The old oil actually looked pretty good, still golden, couldn't have had many miles on it.

We noticed that there is a very small crack/chip in a "V" form on the bottom of the right hand crankcase cover by the bolt just under the bottom oil filter bolt. (not on oil filter cap bolt) We are just planning on JB welding it. It's very tiny and shouldn't be a big deal.

Now here's what we don't understand: After we took the carbs off (which didn't look that bad) we tilted them in different directions to look at them better. When we did, a green liquid came out sometimes, other times it was clearly yellowish bad gas. My question for you guys: If gas sits long enough can it turn green? I don't think it was coolant...I mean, how the heck would coolant get into the carbs? We're planning on cleaning the carbs within the next couple of days.

I'm going to pick up a battery and some fresh coolant today. We hope to try and get her fired up this weekend.

Also, I haven't received my manual yet. How much oil are you supposed to put in? And you only put it in where the black plug is on the left hand side of the engine right? I know that on some modern bikes you have to drain and maybe even fill from two different spots.

Thanks again, I'll keep you posted as I find out more.

[Brian Moffet]

Now here's what we don't understand: After we took the carbs off (which didn't look that bad) we tilted them in different directions to look at them better. When we did, a green liquid came out sometimes, other times it was clearly yellowish bad gas. My question for you guys: If gas sits long enough can it turn green? I don't think it was coolant...I mean, how the heck would coolant get into the carbs? We're planning on cleaning the carbs within the next couple of days.

Coolant would be florescent green, I've heard of algae growing when water gets into carbs.  There is nothing in there that should be turning green.  Brass doesn't tend to do that (from the jets).  Looks like you have your hands full cleaning those puppies...  Lots of people have done it though. 

Also, I haven't received my manual yet. How much oil are you supposed to put in? And you only put it in where the black plug is on the left hand side of the engine right? I know that on some modern bikes you have to drain and maybe even fill from two different spots.

Just the one filler.  There is a clear window down below the filler that you should be able to see through.  While on the center stand, the oil level should be visible in that window.  I don't recall off the top of my head (I'm at work) what the total volume of oil is, I think around 3 quarts?

Brian

[acee125]

Coolant would be florescent green, I've heard of algae growing when water gets into carbs.  There is nothing in there that should be turning green.  Brass doesn't tend to do that (from the jets).  Looks like you have your hands full cleaning those puppies...  Lots of people have done it though. 

Yeah, my brother was joking about that, he said I had moss growing in my carbs.