headlight bulbs

[don_vanecek]

So I was thinking to myself, why have I not put a brighter bulb in my headlight, they only cost $25.00 more or less. I do drive home at night 2 or 3 times a week. I read several past posts on this and I see our base is an H4, several members have put brighter bulbs in and seem to have no problem.

Went to a web site and noted that for any bulb over the base 60/65 they start talking about heavy duty wire and other changes. Are they just protecting their rear ends?  Do I really need to worry about any of this if I go up to perhaps an 80/100 or so? I'm thinking my biggest problem will be changing the bulb out as I will probably have to move my little Vetter Bullet out of the way.

Your thoughts , recommendations please.

[h2olawyer]

I haven't installed a high wattage bulb, so I can't speak about the need for heavier wiring - though I think it would be a good idea, even if the OEM headlight wiring works OK.  I found using a Sylvania SilverStar made a big difference.  It appears brighter than stock because it illuminates in a better color 'temperature' for human vision.

I have considered getting a PIAA bulb, but the Sylvania works well enough for me.  However, I rarely ride at night.  It happens, but only a couple times per riding season.  PIAA claims their bullbs put out light much brighter than bulbs of equivalent wattage from other brands.

For those outside the US (and maybe North America) the Sylvania bulb is sold under the Osram brand.

H₂O

[Brian Moffet]

I found using a Sylvania SilverStar made a big difference.  It appears brighter than stock because it illuminates in a better color 'temperature' for human vision.

Same here.

Brian

[don_vanecek]

I have noticed on a site that they claim the PIAA bulb takes only the 55/60 watts and gives the light of a 100 watt-interesting claim, double the cost also-but how often do they ever need to be change, I think I've changed mine once.

[QBS]

Been running the cheapest H4, halogen, 100/130s I can find (usually around $12.00) for past approx. 20 years with stock wiring, original factory fuse, and OEM fuse box.  Just plug and play.  Have replaced the bulb twice.

The plug is located in an area that is exposed to moisture, so I recommend putting a dab of grease on the connector prongs to ward off the Evil Corrosion and its' insidious croney Resistance.

[h2olawyer]

I'm on my fourth headlight bulb since new.  (16,000 miles)  I replaced the first one - the odd OEM type - after it burned out at around 4000 miles (but many years).  I used a halogen automotive bulb but something about it created a nice, round dark spot in the middle of the light pattern.  Looked like the photos you often see of a solar eclipse.  Since I don't ride much at night, I left it in for about a year.  Replaced that with another OEM type but remembered why I didn't like that the next night I was out.  Thought it had burned out during the CROV trip in '03.  (turned out to be a slightly sticky starter switch)  Did some research and gave serious consideration to the PIAA, but I could get the SilverStar locally, so I went that route.  That's been installed since '04 and I really like the light & light pattern it projects.

PIAA has a fantastic reputation in the off road vehicle lighting world & they do withstand vibration well.  There are motorcycle specific SilverStars, but the automotive one I installed has worked just fine.  They run about 1/2 way between a standard halogen & the PIAA in price.

H₂O

[chrisw]

I am aware that there are legalities involved with aftermarket fitment... but has anyone considered a HID kit?

theyre extremely common for H4 style, and at least around here, a "good quality" kit is about 200, that is one with decent electronics, instead of a 100 dollar eBay bargain basement style one (which I have exprienced as well, not bad, but the electrics died after about 5000 miles in the car)

im considering this for mine.

[Coil Coyle]

I am aware that there are legalities involved with aftermarket fitment... but has anyone considered a HID kit?

theyre extremely common for H4 style, and at least around here, a "good quality" kit is about 200, that is one with decent electronics, instead of a 100 dollar eBay bargain basement style one (which I have exprienced as well, not bad, but the electrics died after about 5000 miles in the car)

im considering this for mine.

When I researched HID I learned that it was only good for low beam because it has a warm up time before full bright.
Has this changed?

:-\
Coil

[chrisw]

yeah, that would be true, though ive found with my good kit it was about 5 seconds to "flash" onto full brightness, kinda like a flourescent tube light at home. *flicker flicker GLOW!*

but it would probably be best for only lowbeam.

[Tiger]

 :) I'm running with a 55/100...it keeps me legal on low beam but gives a great light on high. Cost was something like $8.00 (a week ago)...

                         8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Rick G]

I've run a 100/130 for 6 years , it finally failed this spring. The only thing I could find locally  was a 80/100, which lasted 4 months , before the high beam failed (Chinese bulb?)   So I'm still looking for  a 100/130.

[motoracer8]

 The wiring will probbaly survive, but the dimmer switch may not, a 65 watt bulb draws 5 amps, a 100 watt bulb draws 8.3 amps.  I  have seen some motorcycle switch gear that would'nt servive the stock lamps. What I have done is use a 30 amp Bosch relay that draws current directly from the battery to power the headlamp with a 10 Amp fuse close to the battery and let the dimmer switch switch the relay. You may find your headlamp brighter as well. I've done this mod on several old motorcycles that the lights were not what they use to be. Resistance in old wireing can cause voltage drops.  I use 14 ga. wire to the relay and the headlamp bulb, you may be suprised how much brighter your stock headlamp can be.

  Ken G.