Brake bleeding.....

Started by [jh], August 24, 2009, 01:31:47 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

[jh]

Hahaha after reading every post on this site and a few hours bleeding my brakes I got it, niiiice and firm. I think the only thing not mentioned is the amount of patience you may need. I do have one problem though. The pads don't seem to be backing off all the way, is it possible to be to stiff? Or is this something that will go away on it's own?
wow!

Walt_M.

How much play do you have in the brake lever? If you have it too tight, you may have the return port blocked and the brakes will really drag when they heat up.
Whale oil beef hooked!

[jh]

It's tight, probably a little to tight. How do I correct? Can I just crack open he bleeder a wee bit and let out some pressure?
wow!

Brian Moffet

No, it's the bolt and nut attached to the handle.  It being too tight has nothing to do with pressure in the system.  There is a bolt, kept in place by a lock nut, attached to the brake lever.  Make that shorter so that you have some play (I think 1/8 inch?) between where the lever naturally sits and when it starts braking.  Item number 21 on the following image


[jh]

Well I backed off the screw, there is some free play in the lever but still the brake pads have not released. They aren't totally compressed   but my front tire doesn't spin very freely. Any ideas?
wow!

QBS

Can't tell how "freely" "very freely" is, however, please be aware that it is normal for any disc brake system to have a little pad/disc drag.  You should not expect the front wheel to spin freely as it should when the front axcel is removed from the forks and the wheel is mounted on it.

[jh]

Ok I suppose that was a little general. They are not dragging, the wheel doesn't move at all unless you force it, and it takes a considerable amount energy to get it to move. I am aware that there is usually some drag, but this is not drag, this is stoppage. There is no free spin meaning even if I spin it with my hands it will only move as much I move it.
wow!

vadasz1

Yesterday I installed a SS braided hose to my front calliper and refilled the system with DOT4 fluid.  After about 15 minutes of bleeding the air out of the system I have nice firm lever that leaves about 1/4" space to the grip when fully pulled in.  Also the front calliper does drag abit, but the wheel will turn about 2 revolutions or so when spun. 

I think you may have something stuck in the callipers preventing the piston from backing away from the rotor.  Did you completely bleed the system?  I bled it at the bleed screw as well at the banjo fitting.  Bleeding at the banjo fitting made a big difference.  You may also have an air bubble in the line that didn't want to escape thru the bleed screw.  When was the last time the calliper was serviced?
Keep it upright and she'll always be happy!


'82 Vision XZ550RJ with full fairing, shaved tail light housing and covered in blue hammertone enamel.

[jh]

Just rebuilt. Maybe it is an air bubble or something. My piston definitely isn't going back in. I suppose i should try and bleed again. I couldn't get my lever near my hand grip.
wow!

Night Vision

Quote from: vadasz1 on August 26, 2009, 12:31:55 PM
......
After about 15 minutes of bleeding the air out of the system I have nice firm lever that leaves about 1/4" space to the grip when fully pulled in.......


keep bleeding, lever shouldn't move THAT far..... mine stops about 3" from the ball end to the grip

Quote from: [jh] on August 26, 2009, 02:04:47 PM
Just rebuilt. Maybe it is an air bubble or something. My piston definitely isn't going back in. I suppose i should try and bleed again. I couldn't get my lever near my hand grip.

the square seal rolling back over is what retracts the piston..... check that installation and/or make sure the pins going into the carrier are clean and greased
if it ain't worth doing it the hard way....
it ain't worth doing it at all - Man Law
;D


if it ain't broke..... take it apart and find out why


don't give up.... don't ever give up - Jimmy Valvano