Rider of Vision

[Rick G]

The opel rings Humber used were from a diesel and they destroyed the bore, Perhaps opel gas rings would work. more research  is needed.

[lexx790]

They have 3 of 4 of the sizes of the shell bearings here.- http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xz550rj-1982_model8893/partslist/A-08.html
More impotantly I am after the cause of this problem as well as a fix.
I know it has been said "they go away when they get hot", so is this a heat issue for the rear cylinder or lack of lubrication, any thoughts ?

[lexx790]

I split the crank case this evening, the rear shells are shot.
Also the crank shaft has a groove worn into it to a depth of 0.4mm.
I'll attempt getting the crank out of the spare engine, but not holding up to much hope that will be in any better condition.

[YellowJacket!]

Lexx,
I'm really sorry to hear about all the problems.

David

[Re-Vision]

I've got that engine with a broken timing chain. I haven't removed the crank from the case yet. Don't know about wear but it turns smoothly. It'll cost you shipping if I can figure out how to remove it.    BDC

Bobbydcrabb1@yahoo.com

[lexx790]

Thanks for the offer but I think I can get it corrected, as there's a automotive machine repair shop very close to where I work.
I'll try to get my other crank out to see what condition that is in too.

[lexx790]

I went to the automotive machine repair shop yesterday and the guy there said he could do the job but needed the make/model of the car of the shells that could be used. He said he could look through his catalogues but this may take extra time.
So if anyone could come with any details I would appreciate it.

[Rick G]

Look in members for DMinor and drop him an email. he'll know.
Opps? his email isn't listed. I'll call him tomorrow and see  what he has to say.

[lexx790]

With 2 months having passed since I got the bike back on the ramp, today it came back off the ramp and took it for a quick test ride.
Everything has seemed it's hardest to stop me working on the bike for the past 2 months but now its all done.
List of things I've done during the last 2 months.-
Bike had a bit of a wobble so I measured the run out and thickness of the front rotors.
Both were fine for thickness but one was running out by 0.3mm. Took the rotor off and found the run out was on the wheel, just around one bolts hole.  ???
Made a piece of shim to fit under the rotor, re-attached and now no run out.  ;D
The day before I put it back on the ramp the speedo stopped. Found the tabs on the spindle bit have bent inwards disengaging it from the wheel. Bent the tabs back out and it's okay again.
I bought a oil pressure gauge, electrical type with a sender unit, to keep an eye on it. Reading the forum I came across the same problem as others and the sender when put directly into the pressure switch hole pokes down to far. My solution was to put it behind the bracket that has the side stand on. I drill and tapped 2 holes and held it with an exhaust bracket which held the correct diameter.
This also saves me tapping the hole out to NPT as I used a couple of brass compression fittings in the pressure switch hole and a female fitting for the sender. I bent a bit of copper pipe to attach the 2 places which takes it out of the way of the clutch arm.
The sender only requires earthing to the frame and a single wire to the gauge, so I used the pressure switch wire. The gauge is illuminated so it was tapped into the lighting circuit, but appeared too bright. I put a variable resistor in line and wound it down to a suitable brightness. Measured the resistor back off the bike and found a similar resistor and soldered it inline, so now no overbright gauge.
I also checked the gauge with air pressure on the sender against a calibrated gauge borrowed from work and found it to be spot on.
The crank was reground and new bearings found that fit are from an Austin Mini, so no shortage of these in UK. Also they come in standard size down to -0.060" under size, mine were -0.020" undersize.
I measured the valve clearances before the stripdown and although only slightly out on 2 of the cams with spare shims from the spare engine, so I bought all sizes back close to mid limit on all clearances.

Finally today everything was in place all checks made but the dam thing wouldn't start. Exhaust stinking of petrol so that seemed to be going through, plug caps off producing sparks.  ??? ???
Pulled the tank and filter assembly off and laughed. Carbs still had the paper I stuffed in them to keep them clean.  ::)
All back together, 1st press of the starter and she fires up. A quick trip up the road and she's sounding sweeter than ever. Tomorrow I finish putting all the panels etc back on and take her out for a trip, back to being a rider of vision.
One down side is that since being off the road, I've used the car for work and a new guy at work lives just down the road so now we're car sharing so I won't be using her everyday now.  :'(

[Lucky]

if I can figure out how to remove it.    BDC

Bobbydcrabb1@yahoo.com

You have to strip it down & split the cases

[lexx790]

Sorry to resurrect my old post but 12 months later and the engine started knocking again, noticed it on my last trip home from work last Thursday.
Went away for the weekend and just came back, so I went to the shed and started it to make sure and it's definitely banging.
So much for my week off this week, engine strip down here we come.
I'm a bit worried about this as since the last rebuild I've had a pressure gauge installed and the pressure hasn't dropped off ???? 

[fret not]

You might check the starter clutch before you open the cases.  It might just be the bolts loosening up. ;)

[lexx790]

Bike back up on ramp.
Engine emptied, sides stripped off, flywheel pulled off, bolts in good shape and not loose.
I could get my fingers on the cranks but can't feel any free play which is a good sign.
But pulling the oil pump out and finding 3 gear teeth in the sump is not a good sign.
Finished the day by pulling the engine out and onto the bench.
None of the exterior gears have any teeth missing so I guess Mr gear box is missing a few teeth.  >:(

On a side note my lack of power of 7000 revs disappeared  a few weeks ago but the steady running turned erratic.
Stripping the airbox showed the weighted flap (not vacuum UK bike) broke the rubber hinge.
So the intact flap looks like it causes a restriction at full power but gives a good even power delivery else where.

[lexx790]

Further engine dismantling showed the missing teeth were from the cam chain gear, the one that's sprung loaded.Fixed it with another gear from my spare engine.
So now putting the engine back together ready for some winter riding.