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Broken float post

Started by munkyfistfight, March 23, 2012, 02:15:41 PM

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Rick G

Tapping is a BAD Idea! >:( >:(
Rick G
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there in lurks the skid demon
'82.5 Yamaha XZ550 RJ  Vision,
'90 Suzuki VX800, 1990 Suzuki DR350.
'74  XL350   Honda , 77 XL350 Honda, 78 XL350 Honda, '82 XT 200 Yamaha, '67 Yamaha YG1TK, 80cc trail bike

AdvRich

You could try the JB Weld route and then coat that area and down the posts a bit with POR-15 to seal it from the ethanol that'll otherwise dissolve the matrix. I've done it and it works fine.

Rikugun

I've not had to repair a broken post but I have little faith in the JB weld method as far as longevity goes. The POR-15 step has some merit but the whole process seems tedious and time consuming and still has me wondering about longevity if not done properly. Rich, how long has that repair been in service?

I like dcsob's safety wire suggestion. Obviosly it only works for a particular break location but seems like it would be simple and effective. No waiting to cure, nothing to mix or chemical/fuel interaction to worry about, mechanically sound, and easily replaced if future disassembly is required.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

AdvRich

Quote from: Rikugun on March 28, 2012, 11:36:09 AM
Rich, how long has that repair been in service?
The repair has been good two years now... real simple and little work really, but to each his own.  8)

Rikugun

Sounds good. I'll check back with you in another 30 just to make sure it's still holding  :D  ;D You plan on still being here right!?
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

AdvRich


supervision

  Hey, hey, dcsob's wire idea sent me to the garage. I took a look an 83, the screw that holds the seat in, could be use to hold a strong wire,  their is not much room next to the outer bowl side , but it could angle the other way, a piece of wire going each post, then bending up to the broken piece, then bending back right over broken casting.  It would be possible to make the hole thing tension itself off of the screw as part of the design.
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Rick G

I've repaired them by drilling a hole in the body and a corresponding  hole in the post . Insert a needle bearing in the hole and apply red or green locktight . Worked for me . The trick is drilling the 2 hole accurately.
Rick G
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there in lurks the skid demon
'82.5 Yamaha XZ550 RJ  Vision,
'90 Suzuki VX800, 1990 Suzuki DR350.
'74  XL350   Honda , 77 XL350 Honda, 78 XL350 Honda, '82 XT 200 Yamaha, '67 Yamaha YG1TK, 80cc trail bike

supervision

  Ya, Rick or else the thing binds up, stay open or closed, maybe.  Never had to deal with a broken one, just had a very hard on to remove, did it no harm.
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Lucky

Quote from: supervision on March 28, 2012, 09:50:35 PM
  Hey, hey, dcsob's wire idea sent me to the garage. I took a look an 83, the screw that holds the seat in, could be use to hold a strong wire,  their is not much room next to the outer bowl side , but it could angle the other way, a piece of wire going each post, then bending up to the broken piece, then bending back right over broken casting.  It would be possible to make the hole thing tension itself off of the screw as part of the design.

I love that kind of garage engineering!
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

supervision

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munkyfistfight

This turned out to be a pretty interesting thread. Thanks for the cool ideas. I kept the carb part with the broken posts. It seems like such a waste to scrap the whole thing because the tops of the posts broke off. It seems like there's a shred of hope in case I'm ever in a bind.
Those who play by the book will always be beaten by those who write their own. -Travis Pastrana

AdvRich

Quote from: Rick G on March 28, 2012, 11:01:20 PM
I've repaired them by drilling a hole in the body and a corresponding  hole in the post . Insert a needle bearing in the hole and apply red or green locktight . Worked for me . The trick is drilling the 2 hole accurately.

Good one Rick. This technique is done in word working too. There are drop in pointed centers made for exact hole sizes to put in the first hole drilled to mark the second hole, but we are talking a very small diameter with this method for the posts. One could take a small nail or brad of the needle size, clip the head, and set length to just protrude enough to indent when the snapped piece is pressed down onto the main post. Then it's just a matter of parallel boring for straightness when they go together with the bearing needle. That bearing needle is a good choice too as it won't corrode as easily as say just using a nail.