Where do I start?

[Rick G]

The G7 stator in the Vision is used in many motorcycles , such as BMW and Aprillia singles , several Hondas  and Suzukis  as well as other Yamahas. I have a surplus  750 Virago stator in my VX 800 Suzuki. Tiger posted a chart that has been eliminated from the Elelectro , web site . Perhaps he will post it again. I printed it out , but have done tidy up of my computer desk and can now find nothing!



http://www.ridersofvision.net/Technical/fault_finding.pdf

[fret not]

Make a search through the discussions for MOSFET.  The one I have settled on is from a Honda CBR600RR from '07 on.  The numbers on the unit should be FH008 and a couple letters like AA or EE.  I chose this one because it has 2 pig tails like the original XZ550 RR unit.  You will have to change out the connectors for better ones.

You can make any of the MOSFET units work on your bike but some require either making up or buying wire harness so you can connect with your bike's wiring.

[unitivegreybird]

I decided one this RR

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360465928080?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1746wt_952

and this stator

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270651840873?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1310wt_1185

[fret not]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-HONDA-CBR-600-RR-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-STOCK-OEM-

This is an example of what to look for.  It is the right shape, has the right numbers (FH008**) printed on it.  Unfortunately the wires on this one look a bit ragged.  Honda CBR600RR '05 and later should be good but check with the seller to verify the printed numbers, has to be FH NOT SH. 

There are some from the CBR1000RR '08 and later that work too, but some years for the 1000 don't have the pig tails, just sockets for plug ins.  They will work but you have to also have connecting wires.  The 600 is much simpler to adapt.

[unitivegreybird]

What did I do wrong? Now I the bike won't start up at all, just cranks. I triple checked everything. Here's what I did:

Opened up crankcase
Removed old stator, replaced with new one
Removed old RR, including crappy melted connector
New RR has 2 connectors on the side
-Three blades in one
-Two blades in the other

This is how I wired it up:
3 wires from stator were long enough to connect directly to RR's 3 blades
One wire from RR(marked as red on RR) to postive terminal
One wire from RR(marked as green on RR) to negative terminal

The old connector from the RR was melted, and since I was running directly to the battery, I sealed the ends of the harness. I thought maybe it had to do with the harness no longer making a complete circut, so I test by running the neg and pos ends coming from the bike harness (that lead to the plastic connector along with brown wire) straight to the terminals, just to test. Still nothing.

Bike cranks, has gas, battery is charged... This is so frustrating.

[Rikugun]

You mentioned having a good battery and gas but you didn't say if you have spark...

Did the grommet holding the old stator wires also have the ignition pickup wires going through it? If there were two grommets the stator wasn't original. Do you think you disturbed/damaged the pickup coil wires in the process or unplugged them and neglected connecting them when finished?

[QBS]

Make sure the engine stop switch is in the run position.

[unitivegreybird]

Make sure the engine stop switch is in the run position.

I'm assuming this is the kill switch on the handlebars? Unless there is another switch? I didn't think you could even crank the engine with the switch off.. As far as the stator goes, the old one had been replaced at one point or another. When I pulled the crankcase cover Idisconencted the pickups from the harness and left them attached to the case.  I double checked all of my connections...and they're all conneced.

The coil pickups plug into the tci right?

[dcsob]

OH OH... Heads up for you. Be very careful when reconnecting the r/r make double sure you're not connecting it to the tci lead. Yamaha in their infinite wisdom made them the same. If you are unfortunate enough to do this you burn out the tci as soon as you turn the ignition key on, and are left with a nice paper weight unless you can procure a new/used/good tci (tiger has some still i believe).
Yup I did this. >:( I paint them different colors now.

[unitivegreybird]

OH OH... Heads up for you. Be very careful when reconnecting the r/r make double sure you're not connecting it to the tci lead. Yamaha in their infinite wisdom made them the same. If you are unfortunate enough to do this you burn out the tci as soon as you turn the ignition key on, and are left with a nice paper weight unless you can procure a new/used/good tci (tiger has some still i believe).
Yup I did this. >:( I paint them different colors now.

I actually bypassed the Vision wiring harness completely, the RR is wired to the stator, and then directly to the battery terminals.

That being said, the bottom TCI connector has 3 wires right? Red, white, and black?

Also, what should I do with the original RR wiring from the harness? I had to cut out the connector because it was melted, so now I have a positive, negative, and that brown wire all hanging out of the V's harness. Just cap them off? or splice them in somewhere?

[Rikugun]

Yes - red, black, white to the TCI from the pickups and cap off the now unused R/R harness wires.

[fret not]

It sounds like there may be some grounded wires somewhere.  Start following them and looking for scuffed or chafed wires, melted insulation, etc.  If there was enough heat to destroy the connector it could also happen elsewhere along the wire.  It doesn't take much to let the 'lectricity out.

[unitivegreybird]

Great success! The bike is up and running. Went through and cleaned/greased every connector I could find, dumped starter fluid down it's throat and she roared to life. But now I have a new interesting problem...she idles at around 9 to 10k? ??? I tried adjusting the idle screw on the right side of the bike, but I didn't notice too much of a change...any suggestions?


Also, she charges at 14.5V steady now all across. Boom.

[Rikugun]

...she idles at around 9 to 10k?

??? It idles at redline? Well the good news is it charges at 14.5 from idle right up to infinity.  ;D

Assuming this isn't a typo.....  Is the throttle stop on the linkage touching the idle speed screw - ie is the throttle being held open?  How about leaky YICCS/vacuum ports? Enrichener plungers closed when the lever in off position?

[QBS]

Absolutely check every aspect of throttle linkage, cable routing, and anything/everything even remotely associated with carb control.  It's probably something real simple and obvious once you start looking for it.

[Rick G]

I would bet its a throttle cable problem, its probably hung up, check it out with the  engine off.
Remove the air box top and observe the butterfly plates . They should be closed, open the  throttle on the handle bars and the  throttle  butterfly's should start to open as you rotate the throttle . If not , start checking the cable routing  and see where its hung up.

[unitivegreybird]

Looks like the throttle cable got pinched when I put the radiator back in. Oops  :-[

Rerouted throttle cable properly, and now she runs great, better than before! It's amazing how much cleaning up the electrical system improves the V.

Anyways, I took the time to mount some fog/driving lights where the turn signals where, and placed the turn signals on the sides of the plastic Yamaha brace. Looks great IMHO.

As of now, I simply routed the lights wiring straight to the battery, per the cheapy kit it came with. What I would love to do is somehow wire them in to the headlight circuit. I would like the foggies to come on with bike and turn off when cranking, instead of reaching over and hitting a switch.

[Rikugun]

With no load and an open throttle they do like to rev don't they? ;)  :D  Glad you got it sorted out.

Are you using a relay and fused power to the battery? If the relay's switching feed came from the blue/black (in the headlight bucket) I think it will work how you want it. Powered on with the bike but off during cranking.

[unitivegreybird]

its just a two postion lighted switch with three leads to it: ground, 12v in(with an inline fuse), acc power out, which has a connector to both lights. the 2 foggies have the acc in and a ground. Would i wire the 12v in to the switch from the black/blue? or just bypass the switch and wire the lights into the black/blue wire?

[Re-Vision]

If you tie your fog lights into the same wire that the headlights are connected to you will likely be getting into current draw that will be near or beyond the Headlight Fuse limits of 10 Amps. Current can be calculated I=P/E, divide fog light watts by 12V and you will know fog light Amps. Head light and other bulbs are drawing over 6 Amps. The gist of this is that you don't have much room to play around with so connect fog lights through the provided fuse to Battery 12 Volts.     BDC

PS You can accomplish what you want by energizing a relay from the blue/black wire that will feed the fog lamps through relay contacts.