The Good, the bad, and the ugly! 82XZ (Santa Cruz, California)

[Monster1824]

Hey all,

This was the title of the add on CL from which I bought my vision.  Here is what's going with my 82 Vision.  I'm just copying what the add said so I can get some good insight form some Visionaries.

The good ** all this was done about 2 years about.  Previous owner did all the good in the first six months of owner ship.  I bought the bike about a month ago.


Bike had 16k mi on original tach new digital has 5k mi
Replaced stock gauges with digital tach/speedo/water temp gauge/signal indicators (TrailTech)
Replaced rectangular headlight with round one
replaced stator
new gel battery
rebuilt the starter motor
fixed the starter clutch
New Fork seals/oil
New thermostat
Overhauled front and rear brakes: new brake shoes/pad
fitted low handle bar ends from the 83 model
New TCI (yes, electronic ignition
cleaned and sync'd the carbs
rebuilt the petcock+most vacuum hoses

recent final drive oil change(shaft drive)

The bad

Its a 31 year old bike. It has been leaking a bit of oil since day 1.  **It leaks ever time I turn off the bike and let it sit, about 1 to 5 drops**  If I use the side stand it leaks more then I use the full stand. As far as I can tell engine isn't burning any oil.

and the ugly

it has coolant water pooling on the on engine behind the rear cylinder.   It dose not drip to the ground. It seems to evaporate after a while due to engine heat.  Bike runs great I just have to add a bit of oil and coolant every couple of weeks.

Also I need to get a new clutch cable because the current clutch cable has been spliced and is really long.

I'm a complete noob and have no idea how to work on bikes but i bought this vision because i want to learn and the bike is as old as me so i kinda felt a connection.

Any thought or recommendations?


  ** oh year the girlfriend hates her. **

[QBS]

From what you report the bike appears to be good with the exception of a few minor issues.  The oil leakage is most likely from poor sealing on the part of the rubber grommit that the stator wires pass through.  The fix is to redo that grommets installation.  A minor PITA but noob doable.  The clutch cable is the same.  The coolent leak might be a loose or misrouted coolent catch tube on the way to the coolent overflow tank.  If so, an easy fix.  If not, then I can't advise.  Welcome to the Forum.

[Monster1824]

Thanks for the info.  I'll try and fix it this weekend. 

[Rick G]

where are you ? We may be able to find a Visionary  near you , that is willing to help/

[Monster1824]

I'm in Santa Cruz California.  I got a nice long riding season  :)

[Rikugun]

The coolant leak may be from the 2 chrome water tubes that feed the cylinder jackets from the pump. It's not terribly uncommon for the O-rings that seal the tube ends to leak. Bottom line is you need to find out where it's coming from and then use the appropriate fix. Hopefully it's not the head gasket.  :o

Regarding the clutch cable, I'm guessing it's probably just the OEM '82 cable (a little long to begin with) designed for the taller '82 bars is now very long when used with the shorter '83 bars.

[VisionMeister]

The coolant leak is probably from the head gasket leaking to the outside of the coolant passages.
I had coolant pooling in the engine casting below the rear exhaust. Supervision told me he had the same problem and Bars-Leak solved it. I put some in and it stopped immediately.
I thought I was going to have to replace the head gasket, so I was greatly relieved to see this work.

[VisionMeister]

I looked at your picture and your bike is an 82 but has the 83 handlebar risers, which are lower by about 3 inches.
This is probably why the clutch cable is long.
You could buy some 82 risers if you don;t like the low bars or, order an 83 clutch cable from an OEM supplier. Check the Bike Bandit site. They have the OEM schematics and you can check availability online

[QBS]

IMHO, '83 risers on an '82 is the way the factory Should have done it.

[supervision]

 Cool bike, you found a nice one their!  Keep in mind these motors have plain bearings and need to be rode easy until warmed up, also set the idle at at least 1,500 because slower is too slow for the necessary oil pressure to the main bearings. Maybe someone has a spare clutch cable, sorry I don't.

[Fuzzlewump]

Looks like the Previous Owner has already done most of the bigger standard repairs needed for a V (stator, starter, starter clutch, forks, t-stat)....you're fortunate there!

As for being a noob, this bike is also my first one to own and work on, and I can say it's definitely a strong learning experience. You'll get along fine with the help of this forum, the guys here are incredible.

I really like the '83 handlebars...hadn't seen a photo yet of those bars on a naked Vision. I'm thinking now that I may change over to those myself.

From the photo your exhaust looks to be in nice shape...is it? And if you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for her?

[Monster1824]

I paid $900 for it because of all the work he did on it.  My vision starts up every time with no problems.   I'm glad I don't have some of the problems that other noobs on here have.   I did just notice I have a cracked bushing underneath my gas tank.  It has not effected anything yet but it's something else I got to work on.  Any body know a good site for me to order parts?  i need to get these bolts that lucky posted in the tech talk "IF YOU HAVE NOT CHECKED AND CHANGED YOUR REAR BRAKE BRACE BAR BOLTS, DO SO TODAY!!!" 


I like the low handle bars, it just feels right.  As for my idle it's at 1250 currently.  I'll have to look in my Vision book to see how to change it.   

On a side note I'll be looking to pait my Vision this winter as I won't be riding as much.  The pain in my photo looks good,  but it's not all that great.  The previous owner just spraypainted it all black.  Not sure if I should go with tradtional Vision colors or go with a Green or something different; any suggestions?

[Re-Vision]

Other than Yellowjacket's yellow Vision I prefer the factory colors, just remember to please yourself as it's your bike.     BDC

[QBS]

To keep your V running well, I can not recommend too strongly that any time you park your V, for any length of time that you estimate will be for one or more days, that you drain and then close both carbs.  Never kid yourself and say you'll be riding again the day after tomorrow for sure, so it's not worth it to drain the carbs, and you blow it off.  Then life happens and you don't ride again for three or more days.  The carb demons rejoice and set up shop.  Draining takes just a moment and defeats the carb demons.  Then the next time you ride you start by filling the carbs from the petcock Pri position for 2 or 3 minutes and then start as usual.

For very significant extra points, if the fuel line does not include an in line filter and an in line fuel cutoff valve,  see to it that those items are installed asap.  Fuel petcocks and needle valves are prone to leakage.  Use the fuel cutoff valve to backstop the carbs' float needle valves any time the engine will be sitting for more than 2 hours.

If your carbs are managed in these ways they will be stable for many miles and years.

Idle at 1250 rpm is appropriate.  The '83 owners manual specifies 1100 rpm.  I find that in my bikes current state, a higher idle seems more secure and it helps in dealing with the off idle flat spot known as Vision stumble.

[Monster1824]

Thanks for all the great info guys.  I'll be working the vision this afternoon. My gas line currently dose not have a filter/fuel cut off.  I have noticed a couple of new things 1) I'm only getting about 140 miles per tank is that normal? 2) I'm getting a front end wobble at around 45 mph and when I'm hitting turns I can really feel the wobble as I'm turning.  Is this a common problem with Vision's?  My tire pressure is perfect.

[QBS]

The wobble you describe is not a V idoscracy.  Are you still running the OEM ball/race steering head bearing setup?

[Monster1824]

I beleive so... But to be honest I'm not 100% sure.

[QBS]

Put bike on center stand.  Put helper on back of seat.  Have helper lean back until front wheel is not longer on the ground.  Move the handle bars through their full range.  This should be easily accomplished with just one finger.  There should be very little resistance.  Look for a change in resistance in the center of travel/straight head position.  Before I go farther, please report back your findings.

[Monster1824]

It's tight when I turn it to the right.  It turns left really smooth but right has resistance.  What could this be?   I couldn't see why as I didn't have someone to sit on the back.  So I did and just leaned forward to test the steering?  Also I'm adding some photos. The 1st attached photo is where the oil is leaking from.  2nd attached photo is Where I had to use liquid steel to seal up a crack in the bushing. 3rd photo is my gas line.  Should I cut this line to install the flow switch?

[Re-Vision]

Put a block under the engine to hold the front wheel off of the ground. Then look for a binding cable or such and hope it's not the steering bearings.     BDC