Anyone know how to remove and replace this starter bushing? BDC
I have a small slide hammer with provisions for grabbing behind the bushing provided there's enough room. Another way is to tap it with a bottoming tap and thread in a bolt. When the bolt bottoms out in the hole, keep turning the bolt and it will draw the bushing out of the bore - provided the bushing doesn't begin to spin in the hole. :o. Or, thread in the bolt and use a slide hammer or leverage to remove the bushing. If you can find the right sized bolt you may be able to just thread it into the soft bushing like a self tapping screw and eliminate the need for a tap.
I've read of a method where you fill the hole with grease and drive a snug fitting piece of round stock into the bore. The hydraulic pressure of the grease will drive the bushing out. This would also require a little space at the bottom of the blind holel.
Less elegant but in a pinch you may be able to cut through one side of it with a small burr in a dremel. That will release it's grip on the bore hole and allow you to work it out. Maybe carefully drill some of the material first to reduce the wall thickness? Obviously care must be exercised regardless of the method used.
Thanks, didn't have any of those fancy tools but I did have a bolt that threaded in and was able to whack it with a wrench and hammer. BDC
Re-V, just curious, why do you need to remove this bushing?
Two reasons, it came with the kit and it was worn rather badly. All of the other bearings came out fairly easy. The armature was worn enough that I replaced that also. Any one want to buy a rebuilt starter? BDC
Please see my edit tip in the "Starter Question" post in this section.
Quote from: Re-Vision on April 02, 2012, 04:25:14 PM
Thanks, didn't have any of those fancy tools but I did have a bolt that threaded in and was able to whack it with a wrench and hammer. BDC
How do you thread a bolt into a hard bearing? I have this exact problem.
The steel bolt is harder than the bronze bushing. Maybe Re-Vision can share what grade/size/pitch bolt he used.
It was a steel bolt with a shaft diameter of 9.85mm and 8.8 on the head. BDC
I did this exact same job last evening.
To remove this bushing, just use a M10 tap (I used a M10X1.25) and tap threads in the bushing. Then, just use a matching bolt to pull the bushing. Super easy
Thanks for the tips guys, about to do this job tonight/tomorrow!
Iain and I have just done 2 of these
Fill the bearing full of grease, Insert an old 10mm drill bit (blunt end to the bearing) and tap vigorously. It will pop up out of the hole easy peasy.
Might have to hunt up an old 10mm drill bit , not common here.
I screwed the bolt into the bushing and removed it by hand. BDC
Well it seems there are several methods that net good results ;D
Hi all, best method for me was heating the starter cap on a hot plate to about 212° F. The bushing will fall out easily. Make sure to wear heavy gloves! ;D You can use an oven, too, but make sure, the person who uses it for food preparation is not at home :angel:
You reached the right temperature if small drops of water you drop on sizzle and evaporate.
You can also just spit on it, same effect. This is not recommended in Singapore :police:
Before installing the new bushing put it in the freezer for an hour and heat up the cap. Installation will be very easy.
This procedure is also good for bearing replacement.
Greetings from Hamburg
Pete
Good tips, taking advantage of thermal expansion is often helpful when working with press fit parts. :)
I've replaced many two stroke cyl. liners using the kitchen oven . And yes be sure the lady of the house isn't home . She won't believe it won't hurt here oven, even it you tell her you just ran it through her dish washer! ;D
RICK! I hope you degreased it in the shower before bringing 'that thing' into the kitchen!!! :) :) :D:D
No, he used the "sani" cycle on the dishwasher. It would be disrespectful to use the shower. You'd end up dripping water all the way from the bathroom to the kitchen. :)
It was degreased in the kitchen sink first , that way the trail of water was shorter.
If any of you who had me rebuild your carbs , noticed that thy had a "frosted" texture, it because they were so bad, that I had to glass bead them. To prevent any of the beads being trapped in the carb and causing an engine failure. I ran the body parts through the dish washer. The really bad ones came from Canada, haven't figured why?
Quote from: zebulon on April 14, 2012, 10:37:16 AM
Hi all, best method for me was heating the starter cap on a hot plate to about 212° F. The bushing will fall out easily. Make sure to wear heavy gloves! ;D You can use an oven, too, but make sure, the person who uses it for food preparation is not at home :angel:
You reached the right temperature if small drops of water you drop on sizzle and evaporate.
You can also just spit on it, same effect. This is not recommended in Singapore :police:
Before installing the new bushing put it in the freezer for an hour and heat up the cap. Installation will be very easy.
This procedure is also good for bearing replacement.
Greetings from Hamburg
Pete
and say goodbye to your pretty paint job
I tried the grease + drill bit method this weekend but found that the bit had to be exactly 10mm out it doesn't work. All the sae and letter sizes i had weren't close enough. So i used the "tap and bolt" method, worked great.
Like I said 10 mm drill bits aren't very common here.
Quote from: Rick G on April 16, 2012, 02:44:29 AM
Like I said 10 mm drill bits aren't very common here.
Who would have a metric bike without a set of metric drills? Do you guys use imperial socket sets as well?
Quote from: roro on May 09, 2012, 06:46:21 AM
Quote from: Rick G on April 16, 2012, 02:44:29 AM
Like I said 10 mm drill bits aren't very common here.
Who would have a metric bike without a set of metric drills? Do you guys use imperial socket sets as well?
My cars are metric too... they have been since the early 80's. So ya, I have full manual socket/wrench sets that see more use than my USA ones. But why, would I ever need a set of metric drill bits for the bike?! Between letter bits and SAE bits, there is always a close enough size. Except for perhaps, this particular trick... I just don't see what you're drilling on the bike other than getting bolts that are damaged out in which case you'd use a smaller bit anyways...???
I've made do with primarily fractional bits. Even my metric taps call out fractional bit sizes to be used. I have a numbered set to "bridge the gap" in the smaller sizes but rarely have the need for most of my mechanical work.