Front fork question

[d0n]

OK, I'm trying to replace my fork seals on the 83 and am running into a problem.

The manual says to take the allen head bolt off that's on the bottom of the forks. Evidently, it hold the slider tube in the bottom of the fork?

I had to use extreme force to loosen the allen head bolt. It didn't feel like it broke or anything like that but I can't get it to come out. It just turns and turns. Now, it won't tighten back up either. WTF?

I put the other fork leg in the vise and tried to loosen that same bolt and it was taking as much force as the other one did. I stopped in case I'm doing something wrong.

Maybe they're reverse thread?

The manual says I need to take these bols out to replace the fork seals. This is correct I'm assuming? Can it be done without removing these bolts?

Anyone have any advice?

[h2olawyer]

You haven't broken anything.  They are not reverse thread, either.  You need to make a tool to hold the dampener rod.  That's what the allen bolt screws into.  I forget the size, but you use a bolt, 2 nuts (as a lock system) a socket, some tape & long extensions to hold the rod.  The procedure & tool are well documented in the Haynes manual.  For this job, I think that's the better set of instructions.

For seal replacement, you should remove the bolts & rods from the fork tubes.  It can be done without doing so, but getting the old seals out & driving the new ones in is much more difficult if you don't.

Last time I did mine, I used a pneumatic impact gun & they came out without the nuts & bolt tool.  Remember to use thread lock (medium strength) when you reassemble.

Hope this helps!

H₂O

[Tdub]

Like H2O said, an air or electric impact will get the bolt tight out. Another lil trick is to turn the fork upside down and compress the fork as you turn the bolt. The spring pressure just might be enough to keep the damper from turning. Tdub

[Lucky]

if you use the long tool in the tube to remove the bolt, & just use the allen at the bottom to hold it, it'll come right out

[d0n]

phew! thanks. I don't think the yamaha manual didn't mention this procedure.

[MotorPlow]

Nope, The Yamaha Manual doesn't mention the procedure, The Haynes manual is much better when changing fork seals. If you need me to fax you the pages in the Haynes manual, just let me know. The allen bolts in the bottom of the forks have locktite on them, which you will also need to use when putting it all back together.

[Willie]

I ended up making a tool.  Essentially I welded a bolt that fits the allen head into the end of a tube and then welded a tee-handle on the upper end.  I 'll get the bolt size and the length dimensions tonight if you like.

[d0n]

I got really lucky... I found this 3' long piece of square tubing that fit inside the fork and fit perfectly into the bolt end inside the fork. I couldn't believe that I found something so perfect!

I forgot & ended up putting both forks back together without loctite and then took em apart again and used loctite.

I'm finding the clutch cable rubs on the inner fairing piece when I turn the bars to the left and then when I turn the bars to the right the clutch cable rides over the trip meter knob and gets really tight on it. I'm surprised the trip meter knob hasn't broken off in the past.

It looks like the clutch cable is routed correctly.

Other than that, I'm done! Now, I'm waiting for Rick to finish rebuilding and return my carbs/petcock. Then, I'll be riding! woo-hoo!  ;D

[Lucky]

yeah, that clutch cable runs like that, i think that's why we find a lot of knobs broken off. (i have my spare tucked away...

i used to have it pulled out of the way with tie wraps under the dash, but i've removed them doing other things...

[Night Vision]

mine too... tonight I took a piece of sightly larger tubing, about three inches long, and put it on the clutch cable. It pushes the cable away from the trip knob when at full turn by pushing against the instrument cluster. haven't field tested it yet...

[d0n]

good ideas!