External oil cooler

[Tim B.]

I found a local Vision guru at an independent shop near by. One of the mechanics used to race Visions. I was telling him about my stator woes. He told me that the fix for making stators last (even cheaply made stock units) was to add an oil cooler. Also something about running and extra ground wire from the headlamp dropping the demand on the stator by about 5 amps also helping it to stay cooler. He said once the he made these mods he never had to replace another stator. I'm going to get more details about where the oil cooler taps into the system, where to mount, what type cooler, exact wiring mod, etc.

[Humber]

Seems very innovative to me, but I have few BUTS which I add later ON since I have no time now.

[Lucky]

It's interesting that you mentioned this, last year on the old forum there was a lengthy discussion about adding an oil cooler.

the 'results' of this discussion was that 1) where do you tap for the pressure side so that your not taking pressure from the engine?  and 2) soldering the ends on the Electrex stators and reg/rec generally cured the problem.

Also, I think there was mention of it brought up in an older issue of Ron's newsletter (i'm not a subscriber, so i don't know...)
Still, I think a lot of people might be interested in what you find out
--Lucky

[Tim B.]

I have more information on the oil cooler. You tap into the oil filter housing. An external oil filter must be installed. I need to find a small suitable filter unit. For the cooler I'm going to use a Permacool transmission cooler they also market as a 4-stroke ATV cooler. I'm going to talk to the mechanic again to get the details on setting up the fittings on the housing to get a proper seal and flow. I bought an extra oil filter cover for this experiment. I will post some photos when it's completed. It's very hot where I live, like riding in the proving grounds. We're over 110?F much of the summer. I feel like an oil cooler is a must. I've done the soldered connections on the stator (Honda VT500 unit) and R/R. So I hope this will be the final fix.

[jasonm.]

I figured out the cooler set up. But it's involved. Yes, an external filter is required. The key is either an adaptor plate needs to go where the filter cover is. Or the stock oil filter cover and the engine case need to be tapped. Along with a plug installed. The plug is to keep the flow going in the proper direction. The adaptor plate is simplest. I know a guy at a machine shop. I see him once in a while. Next time I am giving him a spare right case cover to make an adaptor plate. But it will be a while.

[ricks_83]

i dont know why everybody makes it more difficult than it is 1 fitting for the pressure side and one to the relief side i could send pictures of the fittings i used hydraulic quick disconects(similar to air compressor fittings needing a sleeve to be retracted to disconnect ) that needs to be tapped and the depth of the fitting i put my remote cooler in the right vent of the fairing the filter is mounted as low in the fairing as i could get it ?but bernie is right ?:-X so i will take the hint and refrain from expounding about a machine that was ahead of its time and just sit back and watch it self destruct ? please forgive my punctuation
 ? how bout them red sox ? ? ? lol my kid went to bunker hill ?in 2000 took there baseball team to the championships and scoring the run that won then making the out ending the game and has a tattoo on his arm and would let the asphault rip it off ?before taking 1 insult from me about bill buckner being from my home state ?and the subdivision just down from my home is called fenway talk about agony
 ? ? ? ?

[jasonm.]

Yes send me some pics... I have looked at these cases carefully. I know that the oil must return "down stream" from where it was tapped to exit (oil filter cover). I see a plug on the side of the case towards the front. But it isn't that simple. ...I think... I have seen guys try to put oil cooler on old XS400's in the 70's. They thought all they needed to do was tap here and there. Most blew up this way, the oil flow was not proper.
 send some pics please... jsmthefix@msn.com

[ricks_83]

look at page 33 haynes figure 24.6 approx 2:00 inside the housing leading into the + side of the system,  bottom end rods pistons,get fed oil is then routed up the cylinder around the stud with the oring on to the cams and lifters  places lubricunts need to be, when you  look inside the housing the center leads to the pump  then the oil sump in the bottom that tab in the center should be removed and that will be the entry to your cooler or filter what ever i dont think the pump supplies enough pressure or volumn to handle long lines and large filters or coollers in combination  use hose approx the same size, hose larger reduces pressure  available to the top end  the farther away you get the less pressure available running out of space    \/ twin racers use coolers and if it dont go chrome it and milk it

[jasonm.]

I hate to correct you. But the center of the oil filter housing DOES NOT LEAD TO THE OIL PUMP! It leads to the oil gallery. Where the oil is distributed. The hole on the right side is from the pump. This is shown in the Yanaha manual(page 3-44)Also, ALL oil filters get the oil flow from the outside(that right hole). The right side(front) plug is the only place I see where the oil from the pump can be "had". There is not much "meat" there to tap. But a plug must be inserted at the hole in the filter housing. To preserve proper flow direction. I have confirmed the above with the 2 junk engines in my garage. Haynes may be misleading you. If you have done what I think. You may have an oil cooler that gets hot. But it is not flowing properly. Acting more like a reservoir than anything else. Still need some pics...

[Lucky]

A high volume (not hi pressure) oil pump may be needed... this might be something that involves machining new pump rotors.... can you say engineering nightmare?
poss some of the Vision racers might have some suggestions in this one...
--Lucky

[jasonm.]

The pump in the Vision is a fast pump. I see my oil level drop below the window just 3 seconds after it starts. A cooler does not drop pressure. As long as the out and in lines are the proper diameter. Usually 3/8". But causes a delay in pressure at start up. I have checked the pressure. It runs 15psi at hot idle and 45+ psi at 4500rpm. Just like the book says.

[Lucky]

agreed, except that you are moving more oil, (volume). I guess i'm thinking of erring on the side of caution.  if the added amount of oil with a cooler is small, say a cup, then it's probably not a big deal.  if your talking another quart though it might be worth considering.  if you can move more volume, you can use bigger lines, like 1/2", cooling more oil at a time.

how about a simple spring and ball check valve to keep the cooler primed for starting purposes?  or something adaptable from something else?

just thoughts...

[jasonm.]

No aftermarket company has such a thing(ball spring valve)that I know of. Years ago when all the bikes were air cooler. The oil coolers were just put on. And 8 to 16 ounces of extra oil was added. I put one on my water cooled Venture. The lines are 16" each way. It was easy because the Venture uses the same oil filter assy. as an old XS1100. So the adaptor was a sinch. I just add an extra 8 ounces of oil. The Lockhart coolers only hold about 4 ounces. Any "round tube" cooler is a joke. They are usually brass or copper. And hardly do a thing. A good cooler looks like a miny radiator and is made of aluminum.

[jasonm.]

You really are not changing volume. Just the total length of the run. So adding some length to the overall "oiling system" is no big deal. That's what was done years ago...

[Lucky]

Ok :)