My Boy Blue

[munkyfistfight]

Right, but I'm pulling the flywheel/rotor to do the bolts to the starter clutch. I figure while I'm in there I'll check the stator.

[Tiger]

......I'm pulling the flywheel/rotor to do the bolts to the starter clutch. I figure while I'm in there I'll check the stator.

:) Something I would recommend all new Vision owners should do...regardless of any rattles or clanks coming or not from the left side engine case.

Think of it as part of the Vision bonding process, or getting to know your Vision ;D :D :D :D :D :D... ;)

                    8) .......TIGER....... 8)
ps Don't forget to torque up the 46mm nut that hides behind the gear that hides behing the flywheel :P

[Night Vision]

Right, but I'm pulling the flywheel/rotor to do the bolts to the starter clutch. I figure while I'm in there I'll check the stator.

good! do the crank nut like tiger said AND the balancer gear nut... and you might as well ask AK if he changed the shift shaft seal while you're in there

[akvision]

Hey you look just like me when I was 30! :)

Well, been some time pass by for now..

1. The VR is new.
2. You need to contact RHPAW on the TCI wires... I think he mentioned that he did cut a wire and did a repair.. Also, I may have a wire harness that I could pull off the dead  parts bike that I have here.

3. Don't get to excited about the TCI as a replacement is coming your way in April.. maybe I could get my kid to mail it off early..
Contact him on the Gmail account.

4.  Are you killing the battery when you turn the key off and turn it too far to the right and leave the parking lights to suck the battery down.. a new battery should not go dead with the bike sitting.. if so you need to trace the leak.. and we never had any of those types of issues with the BlueV..  so I am puzzled about that..  Plus the bike sat at the dealers for 10 months and the battery was up enough when it was delivered to fire.. ??? so check for what is causing this to happen.  When you walk away from the bike all lites should be off and dead.   I am really puzzled by this..??

The idle screw are the deep seated brass small adjusters on the bottom of each carb. 
keep at is there is loads of support her.

AkV

[Rikugun]

If the diodes in the rectifier part of the R/R are 'leaking" (flowing against their intended direction), it can drain the battery while sitting.

Even if it looks new don't assume anything - that goes for the battery and stator as well. There are in-depth diagnostics available here and elsewhere. Do some research, take a step by step approach and try not to get overwhelmed!  :)

[munkyfistfight]

Much appreciated! I'm going in there tomorrow with a freshly charged battery and my laptop with all of these Vision service manuals I just got ;-) ...And probably a hell of alot of coffee.

I can't believe it snowed again last night. I'm sort of glad I have something to do until the weather clears up.  :laugh:

[Oz Vision]

Right, but I'm pulling the flywheel/rotor to do the bolts to the starter clutch. I figure while I'm in there I'll check the stator.

good! do the crank nut like tiger said AND the balancer gear nut... and you might as well ask AK if he changed the shift shaft seal while you're in there

Can someone please explain how this nut can be loose if the locking tab is still in place??

[Night Vision]

because they may have backed it off to get the washer tab to fall on one of the flats of the nut..

you can tighten the nut down and re-bend a tab over the corner of the nut... hard to explain... not hard to do 

[Tiger]

Can someone please explain how this nut can be loose if the locking tab is still in place??

:) Sadly, not everyone of the guys in Japan that originally built the Vision's were as meticulous as us :o ::) ;D :D :D :D :D :D :D... ;)

You will find that one of the two tabs has been bent over, but not two... :o and sometimes not all the way down against the nut as it should be!!!!! Vibration and the tabs not being locked down will cause it to loosen a fraction...1/16" - 1/8"... which in turn will amplify out of your engine!!! This and the starter clutch noise, when loose, is a major reason why so many Vision's found an early grave...Techs were wrongly diagnosing bottom end failure, etc, etc  ??? ??? ???... which would obviously run up a large $$$.00 bill to repair :o >:( Bye-bye Vision and the rants of another dissatisfied x-Vision owner continued to escalate........  >:( :( :'(

This 46mm thin nut must be torqued down correctly and BOTH lock tabs put in place. The lock tab material is soft enough to go over the nut 'shoulder', as well as on the flat.

Please note: You have to remove the flywheel and then slide off the gear to get at this nut. It does come loose by a fraction...IT CAN NOT COME OFF OF THE SHAFT!!! It just causes a racket due to  vibration amplification.....
                8) .......TIGER....... 8)

[munkyfistfight]

I noticed some metalic "tinking" noise today. I managed to get the carbs tuned up about right. It doesn't hesitate much to start now and joyously fires up and idles nicely. Unfortunately I STILL haven't had the time to pull the side cover off and begin the work on the starter clutch bolts, but from what it sounds like the noise I'm hearing is sourced to that area of the motor. It's not loud, but noticeable. No more riding until I do the work and change the oil.

Hey, I need a little help here? I'm noticing a noisy downshifting noise. When I'm riding and go to downshift (especially back into 1st gear) it shifts "hard" and sounds like something is unwinding or unsticking??? Low oil? I don't know. It shifts nicely in the opposite direction. Any thoughts?

[QBS]

Lower your down shift speeds so that the gear you are shifting down into is an easier/closer match for the engine rpm and your road speed.  If you're doing what I think you are, you really stressing the transmission shaft engagement dogs (yes, that is the proper and correct name for that part).

Extream example:  Going for first gear at say, 20 mph might be possible but you won't do it but few times until your transmission, and hence your engine, becomes a boat anchor.

[Rikugun]

In addition to what QBS suggested, a little blip of the throttle (if you're not doing it allready) goes a long way to smoothing downshifts. Also, don't spend any time coasting - throttle off, clutch in, and expect a noiseless & smooth downshift.

[munkyfistfight]

Thanks for the tips. My last time on 2 wheels was about 5 years ago before I sold my 1978 Suzuki RM 125. It's quite a bit different now. :-D

Anyway, yesterday I finally got around to pulling that side cover off! I haven't touched anything insides yet. It appears my oil leak was coming from the rubber thingy that the wires pass through. There didn't appear to be much sealant there. I have some cleaning to do, but the gasket is still in great shape.

As for the stator, she's starting to look a little black, but there isn't any flaking or charring. I could probably get a few more miles out of it, but I'm probably going to have to come back in and swap it out. I've been expecting this anyway. Once I get the insides all tightened up, I'm going to do a thorough fault-finding check.

Pictures to follow.

[Rikugun]

As for the stator, she's starting to look a little black, but there isn't any flaking or charring.

That's how mine looked last spring when I got my Vision up and running. The three windings were not shorted or open and had good AC output. It lasted 2700 miles before it croaked at which point I chucked it and the regulator/rectifier.

Under the recomendations of the forum, I had mounted a volt meter and knew when the failure occurred. Without it, I never would have known I rode home on battery power. I would then have went for my next ride on total loss and most likely ended up stranded.  :o

[munkyfistfight]

It looks like it's overheating a little but I think I have a few miles left.

[munkyfistfight]

I just ordered a new stator from Tim Parrott. In the meantime, I wanted to ask a question. I just read in the archives about hardwiring the stator and I want to make sure I do it right....

Am I soldering each white wire to another white wire individually? I think this is where I'm getting confused. I was under the assumption that somewhere in the middle you solder all 3 of them together.....I know that sounds stupid, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Aside from that, the cover is still off. The starter clutch bolts are done. I'm shopping around for a 46mm deep socket for the nut on the crank. What else am I ever going to need a 46mm deep socket for? I'm not looking forward to spending all that money and only using it once. What if I just used an adjustable wrench and tightened it enough to get the tab over the shoulder of the nut?

The weather is gorgeous and I can't ride just yet...:-\ Bummer!

[QBS]

White wires are individually connected.

[Night Vision]

What else am I ever going to need a 46mm deep socket for?

probably nothing.  the largest adjustable wrench would be a "plumber's" cresent wrench at Ace hardware... that works ok, I bought a 46mm open and box end wrench... not much use because you can't get the box end on the nut and the $10 plumber's wrench would do the same...

utilmately, I used a sharp chisle / punch to snug the bolt down.... you basically are just making sure it's not loose and rattling

[Rikugun]

utilmately, I used a sharp chisle / punch to snug the bolt down

OMG! I can't believe you resorted to such a barbaric course of action!   You monster!  :o

Actually, I did the same thing but I prefer a slightly dulled chisel. More of the impact energy goes into moving the fastener and less into cutting.

[akvision]

Did you do a test to see if the stator is in the failure mode??  If your getting a new one, thats great.  This one only has about 3500 miles at the most on it.. and was never subjected to any high temp summer riding.. 
I think the discoloration is picked up from the oil.. and that was not abuse either.

I would be interested in knowing if the stator fails the tests and shows a short.

Akvison