Another way to cool the stator?

[VisionaryDan]

I don't know if this has been tried or suggested but has anyone tried drilling say a series of 1/2" dia holes or slots around the back face of the rotor through to where the windings are?

This shouldn't effect the strength of the rotor in the area's that it needs to be strong to pull it off the shaft and I believe the magnetic field is generated by the ID of the rotor not the inside face.

This way there would be more of a chance for oil to get in and cool the stator as well as letting heat escape. Of course the holes would need to be placed equally so you would not effect the balance of the rotor. A good machine shop shouldn't have any problem doing this.

Any thoughts?

[Lucky]

my concern would be wipping air into the oil...

[louthepou]

I think that welding cooling fins on the side cover would be more effective.

But not cute.

Lou

[Superfly]

2 words...

Oil Cooler.

[VisionaryDan]

Lucky how is the oil cooler workin out?
Could you tell us how many miles have you clocked since you installed the oil cooler? Does your water temp run any lower with the oil cooler installed?

I guess everyone is waiting to see how long you go before you need to replace your stator. A oil cooler is something I am considering as a winter project.  The stator for me continues to be that glaring problem that makes you think twice about a long trip with a Vision. Especially after the reports from the a few members that they experienced failures especially after long rides.

Just thought that this idea may get things to stay a bit cooler. There is a rotor on ebay that I am half tempted to buy and have it drilled just to see.

Dan

 

[Rick G]

Long rides have absolutely  nothing to do with it . Time was up,  thats all. The widings deterorate a little every time you get the engine up to temp. The oil in the Vision runs way too hot.
I lost a stator   on a short evening ride, my voltage indicator  started showing signs of failure  and about 5 miles later  it failed completely . I rode home , at night  about 25 mile on the battery.

[Lucky]

I've only had a chance to put on a few (4 or 5??) hundred miles on the bike this summer, just no time to ride  :(  I can tell you that thru the hottest most humid part of the summer the oil pressure has stayed very good, 50-60 psi cruising & about 25 or so psi idling very hot with the fan on.

coolant temps have not gone above halfway except in stop & go traffic when the fan came on.

[Walt_M.]

Dan, I would suggest that you not drill holes in the rotor. I don't believe it will help cool the stator and it could weaken the rotor. Think about how much it weighs, how fast it spins and where it lives.
If you are that concerned about the stator, do the oil cooler.

[Lucky]

the instructions are on my site, & i still have some plugs for sale too.
--Lucky

[QBS]

VDan: If your drilled rotor grenades at 10k RPM, you and your V will have a very bad day.  Just a thought.  Cheers.

[VisionaryDan]

Ok Ok what a bunch of doom sayers.? :o It was just an idea...

I still don't believe the holes weeken the rotor but I'll try the oil cooler first.? I just thought this might suppliment the cooler. I'll email Lucky about the buying a couple of plugs.

Dan

[Lucky]

I have a new email from you.? i'll go read it...

Ok, read it, you have an IM, & the file has been updated too.
--Lucky

[glennw]

duh.. Lucky, I can't find the oil cooler deal on your site?

[Lucky]

http://www.xz550.com/Oil%20Cooler%20Construction.pdf

[louthepou]

The problem with the rotor plan is that it needs to be perfectly (totally, absolutely) balanced. Otherwise, it will create a lot of vibes, and eventually cause pats failure.

I think that many folks have proven there are enough other ways that, combined, actually eliminate the problem:

Weld the wires, relocate RR
Use synthetic engine oil
Good coolant (What was the special, high tech stuff called? Was is Superfly, or H2O or another member that reccomended it?)

Lucky's oil cooler is apparently an addition that has a significant effect, although a bit more labor-intensive.

Oh, and I guess going for the good aftermarket stator's a good idea too.

Lou

[h2olawyer]

Good coolant (What was the special, high tech stuff called? Was is Superfly, or H2O or another member that reccomended it?)

There are several different coolants and coolant additives on the market.  I'm using Engine Ice.  Expensive - about $18US a bottle & the Vision takes about 1.10 bottles.  It is propylene glycol & much less toxic than the traditional ethylene glycol.

It comes premixed with ionized water which is supposed to protect the cooling system from corrosion.  Don't know about the corrosion protection but my V runs a bit cooler with the stuff & it did the finishing touches on sealing my dripping coolant from the weep hole as well.  I did use some Prestone water pump seal conditioner for a couple hundred miles in the old Yamacool before I changed coolant early last summer & that cut the dripping a bunch.

H2O

[Superfly]

Red-Line's "Water Wetter" is another option.? It is a additive to the coolant system.? I never had any overheating problems.?

Do not forget your cooling system is now 23 years old, and NEEDS to be cleaned. 

[vavision]

How does one go about cleaning the system? Are we just talking a flush here?

[h2olawyer]

vavision -

Do you have a Haynes or factory manual?  The process is kind of long & drawn out.  There are also some photos that will help.  Chapter 1, section 23 is where you can find it in the Haynes manual.  If you need, I can scan the appropriate pages from either manual & e-mail them to you.

Also, I think Lucky is still offering factory manuals through his site for a reasonable fee.  I highly recommend getting at least one manual.  Having both the Haynes & factory boks is even better.

H2O

[Kiwi_XZ]

Hi Guys.

New to the forum so please humour me.  When you talk about relocating the R/R, where exactly?  How is it mounted and are there any pictures about.  After replacing the stator (dead when I bought the back a few months back) with one I had from a wrecked XZ400 that came with the project I have crimped the 3 wires from the stator to the R/R as suggested on xz550.com (checked all was working ok with the charging system first).

I'm an aircraft engineer so I used Raychem aircraft enviromental inline splices covered with additional heatshrink and spira-wrap.

From what I can see in the forum it appears that its more than just this connector causes problems.