Clutch Adjustment

[Paul Mc]

Gents:

According to the Haynes manual, with the cable wound out the clutch can be checked under the LHS of the bike by pushing the clutch arm (spring-bound) forward and seeing if the mark on it aligns with the mark on the crankcase...
It's a fairly hefty spring to push forward against for a start, but when I do so (using a short piece of wood as a lever) then the marks do not align. The arm goes about 6mm past the cranckcase mark (in a clockwise direction, looking up at the bottom of the engine from underneath).

I'm happy to adjust the clutch (46K miles on the clock) via the screw/locknut arrangement behind the RHS cover access hole - just wondering if
a) I'm pushing the arm too far forward with the wooden lever and
b) if I should adjust the screw/locknut with the lever in position, or adjust and check and repeat as necessary?
c) I've got it totally wrong.

Clutch cable isn't a problem: I can easily adjust so that it doesn't engage at all, but cannot make it engage better just by slacking off the cable.

It's even possible that the plates are just too far worn, I've not opened the casing but at the moment I'm assuming that there is adjustment left in the clutch...

Along with running rich (air filter full of crud, non-recoverable and a replacement is on order) the bike is running rich and the clutch is slipping, I'm hoping to adjust it to improve the performance (55mph at ~5900rpm).
(Oil and filter change due this weekend too, assuming the filters do arrive).

Any advice welcome.
Paul

[§pace_§uitor]

*bump start*   :o

I'm in the same spot as this original poster here.

Any shop rats still crawling around this place? 

[fret not]

A clutch that slips when given full slack in the cable is most likely an internal issue.  Could be a fried clutch that has been abused, or it could be springs that have given up and lost some strength.  Another possibility is that someone may have put super slippery additive in the oil.  Since the clutch runs in a "wet bath" of engine oil this is possible.  The truth will be more apparent when it is opened and inspected.

It is best to have a shop manual at hand for reference so you can measure the springs and plates, and inspect for any warped or burnt plates.

[Rikugun]

Good points Fret. I'd agree if the clutch has been slipping for some time the condition of the steel and friction plates is likely compromised. Fortunately, clutch parts are readily available for these engines. I'd use the manual procedure to adjust it but if no success, you may have to dig deeper. I might add that a poorly maintained cable can cause a clutch to slip by not allowing complete engagement with each use.

[§pace_§uitor]

I probably should have started my own thread instead of bumping Paul's.

I have been trying to adjust the clutch cable properly.  Flat screen camera phone comes in handy for viewing impossible alignment marks.

Confused about which direction the right-side internal adjuster moves the marker. 

In messing both directions, I lost engagement altogether (I thing, when I tried making the adjustment with the clutch grip clamped closed....re-adjusted....after some more fiddling, she re-engages, albeit not quite in the spot where the marks align as I watch the linkage move in the camera, and although it FEELS CLOSE on the ride, there is still that hesitation or stumble, my confidence is not yet restored.

I have the manual and shop book, with the piccurs an th' diagrams, but I am professionally amateur.   :-X