Ok so I vowed that I would document this rebuild but if this needs to be moved let me know.
So last night I started to rebuild the vision at 14664.7 miles. And the first stage in any renovation is dis-assembly.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0030Custom.jpg)
Got almost every fluid I need at the local MC shop plus a filter and plugs.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0007Custom.jpg)
So I took the brake system off. Strangely enough there was still clean looking brake fluid in the wheel cylinder. I swear it would have worked if I had a working MC. I didn't get of it coming off though.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0004Custom.jpg)
Took the fork brace off and loosened the fork caps. I actually had the 17mm hex head socket from a set I bought at harbor freight tools when I needed a 19mm hex socket and had to buy a set of them.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0012Custom.jpg)
Then I took the wheel off.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0015Custom.jpg)
Then I took off the forks.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0029Custom.jpg)
So that was all the work I got done last night. The forks are really soft for my 220lbs frame so any thoughts on what I can do.
damn, thats a clean looking machine to start with!! Good for you.. I understand the 83 shock is a better shock,, but these other folks will know for sure..
you can counteract much of the softness with a set of progressive fork springs and 15wt fork oil. It will still be soft when compared to a modern sport bike but will allow much harder braking without the front end bottoming out.
Here is a link to the springs @ Dennis Kirk
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp;jsessionid=NGOZSQXNHRCXNLA0WTKSM4VMDK0NCIV0?store=&skuId=58962&mmy=
Good on ya! Your fork seals need to be replaced. The brake fluid looked clean because it was replaced during the braided brake line upgrade(a really good thing). Conversion of the forks to air forks might give you the front end feel you want. I run 6 psi in my stock '83 factory air forks. They are fairly plush and never bottom.
Looks clean, just dusty. Am surprised that you didn't give it a bath before dissassembly.
Good luck, and I will follow your progress with interest.
This is the beginning of the "bonding" part that will banish the "Vg's" (visiongrems) :)
Wow! Compared to what a lot of our bikes looked like starting out for our restorations, you have a pretty clean slate. Didn't see any rust which is a very good thing. You should have quite a nice bike when you are done.
I've plastered hundreds of pictures on here over the years. I don't think theres anything wrong with documenting your progress with pictures.
David
Quote from: QBS on August 15, 2009, 04:41:42 PM
Good on ya! Your fork seals need to be replaced. The brake fluid looked clean because it was replaced during the braided brake line upgrade(a really good thing). Conversion of the forks to air forks might give you the front end feel you want. I run 6 psi in my stock '83 factory air forks. They are fairly plush and never bottom.
Seals replaced and forks rebuilt today! Yay!
Quote from: akvision on August 15, 2009, 04:50:53 PM
Looks clean, just dusty. Am surprised that you didn't give it a bath before dissassembly.
Good luck, and I will follow your progress with interest.
This is the beginning of the "bonding" part that will banish the "Vg's" (visiongrems) :)
Couldn't give it a bath. It didn't run and all of the body work was off when I started. I did take 60 psi shop are with the blow pencil to dust it which promptly settled onto .... well everything.
Quote from: YellowJacket! on August 15, 2009, 07:56:01 PM
Wow! Compared to what a lot of our bikes looked like starting out for our restorations, you have a pretty clean slate. Didn't see any rust which is a very good thing. You should have quite a nice bike when you are done.
I've plastered hundreds of pictures on here over the years. I don't think theres anything wrong with documenting your progress with pictures.
David
Yup I knew the guy who owned it before I did. He did let live in a nice garage in nice dry AZ.
On tap for today fork rebuild with stock springs and 20wt oil verdict - I like it. Here are the juicy bits for you. I took enough pics for a tutorial if needed.
Fork You!
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0032Large.jpg)
Draining Fork Oil
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0041Large.jpg)
The 19mm damper rod holder
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0042Large.jpg)
Getto Clamping job since my vice is not mounted
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0049Large.jpg)
Dust seal removal
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0057Large.jpg)
Nasty Rusty clip (it cleaned up with some light sand paper and PB blaster)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0062Large.jpg)
Great tool for pulling out oil seals only like 5 bucks at harbor freight tools.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0066Large.jpg)
Post cleaning install of damper rod
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0071Large.jpg)
Installing the Oil seal
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0074Large.jpg)
Install some 20wt oil 8.7 oz is what I heard was the magic number for an 82
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0087Large.jpg)
Setting the oil level, 300mm right?
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0088Large.jpg)
Putting it together
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0092Large.jpg)
Magic of the internetz I haz done 2 now
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0093Large.jpg)
Got the forks installed and the wheel installed then bounced the front end and it felt much better.
Other thing I got done today. Replacing broken throttle cable.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0095Large.jpg)
New Unit
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0099Large.jpg)
Nice work! I have to do alot of this too, so its great to see some similar photo doco's :D
So not that I didn't work on the Vision but I just kept working on the same d*mn part the past few days. But I finally won!!! Now for the spoils of war. The old MC had just enough life left to push out one good piston before giving up the ghost. I knew it was toast so I planned on rebuilding it anyway. I got 2 more calipers to rebuild along the way so if anyone is looking for a brake caliper I will have 2 LH ones soon.
One almost completely clean caliper body
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0105Large.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0107Large.jpg)
The caliper bore. It took me forever to get the gunk out of the seal area.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0102Large.jpg)
The piston, it only has some small <1mm corrosion pits in them and all subsurface, I cleaned it up with solvents, nylon brush wheels and jewelers polish to try to get rid of the gunk that was on it. After I get the other units out I will see how many I need to order.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0108Large.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0109Large.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0111Large.jpg)
Nice work, can't wait to see more!
Got more work done last night. Turns out the working master cylinder had not given up the ghost after all. Too bad that one has tons of damage to the cover threads or I would just use it.
Here is the "good" master cylinder. it looks like it sat so long in the AZ heat that the brake fluid dried up I have never seen that before.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0114Large.jpg)
Close up of the gunk that in the master cylinder.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0113Large.jpg)
Got the dust boot off now time to get the snap ring off. Yes the plunger is seized up at the far end of its travel.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0115Large.jpg)
Found an interesting way to remove the plunger. Soaking it in cleaners and solvents first didn't let me pull it out so instead I pre-bled the damaged master cylinder and line, then filled the bore of the seized master cylinder with brake fluid then bolted where the brake caliper would normally go using the same banjo bolt and then stroked the damaged master cylinder to build pressure and out popped the seized plunger from the seized master cylinder.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0119Large.jpg)
I am so glad I have about a quart of "used" but clean brake fluid to pop these brake caliper pistons and master cylinder plungers out. I would hated to have to use the bottle of new DOT4 I have for the rebuild just to pop these things apart. Here is the bore of the seized master cylinder with out the plunger.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0121Large.jpg)
Exploded Master Cylinder number 1
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0128Large.jpg)
Exploded Wheel Caliper 2 (yesterday's was number 1)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0127Large.jpg)
Partly Exploded Wheel Caliper 3 still having trouble getting the caliper off the guide pins.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0129Large.jpg)
Nice work, been doing exactly the same thing over the past few nights with the master cylinder.
I've just finished paint stripping and polishing the top cover to see what it looks like and its polished up well.
I've already disassembled the brake cylinders stripped the paint off cleaned and had them sent away and had them alochromed so the inner grooves shouldn't corrode anymore.
I just gotta get some 2 pack paint to finish the job.
Quote from: lexx790 on August 20, 2009, 04:22:42 PM
Nice work, been doing exactly the same thing over the past few nights with the master cylinder.
I've just finished paint stripping and polishing the top cover to see what it looks like and its polished up well.
I've already disassembled the brake cylinders stripped the paint off cleaned and had them sent away and had them alochromed so the inner grooves shouldn't corrode anymore.
I just gotta get some 2 pack paint to finish the job.
Is that a chromate converstion process like they use in aircraft to protect aluminum or even the very same one. (I used to work in the IT department at an areospace company) Does anyone know what the calipers are made of cast aluminum perhaps?
PS does anyone know where I can locate the little boots that go over the caliper guide pins.
Yes it is the same I think just different companies use trade names and our paint sub contractor at work calls it alochrome.
I googled it and saw that classic green color I firgured that is what is was.
I know powder coat and 2 pack paint is resistant - you can spill and as long as you wash it off soonish you are fine, but if you fail to do so you will find the paint has softened or even dissolved.
Is this olochrome is brake fluid proof? What will happen to the inside of the caliper and your braking performance if this stuff is not 100% resistant? If you ask me, having to do a clean like you did every 27-odd years is no big deal compared to the big deal of finding you have no brakes at 100 miles an hour
Quote from: roro on August 20, 2009, 05:18:53 PM
I know powder coat and 2 pack paint is resistant - you can spill and as long as you wash it off soonish you are fine, but if you fail to do so you will find the paint has softened or even dissolved.
Is this olochrome is brake fluid proof? What will happen to the inside of the caliper and your braking performance if this stuff is not 100% resistant? If you ask me, having to do a clean like you did every 27-odd years is no big deal compared to the big deal of finding you have no brakes at 100 miles an hour
It was never really the plan to use it since I dont know anyone who can do it. I was planning on powder coating them or painting them and masking off the bore and guide pin area.
One might consider color aluminum electro plating. Anodizing. It is a good finish and many colors can be selected.
Aircraft have been doing Blue for years. I think it is a better option than powder coat.
anodizing is a great choice IMHO as well. blue is always fantastic but a bit overdone. what about black anodized (after all its just dye added to the process).
I was thinking about anodizing the calipers but there are two problems. 1) the parts seem to be made of cast aluminum which is notoriously hard to anodize and get looking good. Second there is a pressed in steel insert that would be destroyed by the acid they use during the process.
I believe that he insert can be coated or sealed with a removable coating to protect it.
Alright I have come to an interesting cross roads. Stearing head brearings should I mess with them at all. There is none of the usual problems of tightness or binding so are the bearings so prone to going out on these bikes that they should be replaced now?
If you've OEM or OEM design loose ball bearings, it's a no brainer. Install tapered roller bearing. If you have tapered rollers already in place, evaluate them for notchyness or tightness. If not too notchy, but still a little tight, grease'm up and ease up on the steering head bearing preload.
Sounds good. I will be pulling apart the top triple tree clamp sometime this weekend so I will inspect it then.
Don't just inspect - replace!.
My steering head bearings seemed fine. PO said he replaced them 2 years ago - but replacing with tapered bearings improved handling 100%. The bike no longer tracks seams in the tarseal, holds the line in hard cornering much better, and the slight high speed wobble is gone.
Well worth the effort and minimal cost. That and the braided brake lines are the best value upgrades I have done.
Does anyone have a part number for these tapered bearings?
I've got my front end apart to replace the wheel bearings, so I might as well go ahead and try to fix the steering wobble with new bearings as well.
They are posted here.
http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=10467.0
Thank you.
Ok 2 quick questions before I can get back to the house and upload photos of what I got done this weekend.
Starter - should it be rebuilt? Should it be removed at all to inspect the seals? When I ran it I didn't hear the classic noise problems associated with the starter bolts and the starter sounded strong and didn't sound like there was oil in the starter.
Second - Who is a mod I can ask about an etiquette thing before I get the ban hammer for advertising.
Ok 3rd question what is the radiator and the block made of. I am guessing the rad is a traditional copper, brass and the block is aluminum right?
Got an old warped radiator that I scraped the top, bottom, fins, and the vertical channels and all appear to be aluminum. BDC
sounding good, cant wait to see some pics :)
If your doing a bit of a refresh/refurbish, why not just do the starter motor now so you dont have to do it in the future as soon?
As for the radiator, revision called up that point. Mine isnt in the best condition so I've got a local radiator guy who is going to make me a custom radiator thats approx 30% better cooling wise. and just plumb up some custom little fittings so it bolts in and pipes up correctly, probably a good idea since its going to be summer when this bike is on the road, and 110 degree aussie days in traffic might be a bit hard on the old girl.
Ok what we got done over the weekend. First thing is some parts came in.
Caliper Seal Kit
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0131Large.jpg)
Test Fitting the Seals in Caliper before it goes to powdercoat
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0135Large.jpg)
Brake Pads
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0134Large.jpg)
"All Ball" Brand Front Wheel Bearing Kit
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0133Large.jpg)
Uni Brand Air filter
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0132Large.jpg)
Nasty Old Front Wheel Bearing
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0136Large.jpg)
Old balls, New Ball bearing
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0139Large.jpg)
One step forward and 3 steps back. I had to pull it all apart to inspect the steering head bearings
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0144Large.jpg)
The guys at the local shop went ahead an ordered me the tapered steering head bearings, rear wheel bearings, and master cylinder rebuild kit for me and it should all be in tomorrow. I have already found one problem with the upper triple tree clamp in that one of the bolts that holds the key cylinder in place was missing which was why you had to have the key just right to turn it on or lock it. All the wires that were in the headlamp bucket are out and the connectors have been cleaned with contact cleaner and will get di-electric greased upon re-assembly tomorrow.
If you get a Jack Stand (like http://www.amazon.com/Torin-Double-Lock-Jack-Stands-Capacity/dp/B00026Z3EA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1251816134&sr=8-6 (http://www.amazon.com/Torin-Double-Lock-Jack-Stands-Capacity/dp/B00026Z3EA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1251816134&sr=8-6)) you can wedge it under the front of the engine. It would keep the lift from being in the way. I found it really helpful. Just don't bump it too hard:
(http://www.pbase.com/moffetb/image/94197352/medium.jpg)
Brian I have one of those exact same ones. I use the jack so that I can adjust the height of it to get the axle bolt in and out without banging on it.
Any who MORE PROGRESS!!!!!
The OEM races were pounded out with an aluminum rod I had handy
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0146.jpg)
The tapered steering head bearings to replace the crappy OEM ball units
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0147.jpg)
Bearings after being carefully tapped into the head tube with a block of plastic with red synthetic grease
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0149.jpg)
After that I cleaned the contacts
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0150.jpg)
And I never put a non-water proof connector back without di-electric grease
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0153.jpg)
I was debating stripping it to the frame and having the frame powdercoated but I came to the opinion that since this has been an AZ bike and shows little to no signs of rust I am not going to go though that hassle for a bike that will just be a fun toy to ride. (Well at least for now. If I ever have to do major work again I might just pull it apart and do it just not now)
evening update. It lived!!!!!!!!
YEAH!!!! Lots of progress!!! Looking good and she'll love ya for it!!
ok so its got every classic vision carb problem but damn it it ran. I can get it up to red line but it takes some tweaking to get past the 4k-5k stumble.
Can i rebuild the carb without the kit that seems to be impossible to find for the 82's. Just reuse the rubber parts, dip the hard parts, and cut a new float bowl gasket?
I didn't even need to replace the float bowl gasket, I would wait on that until you decide you need it. If it ran to red-line, and you only had the 4 - 5k stumble, make sure that it is tuned correctly (carb sync problems will cause that stumble) before you tear into it.
Brian
after doing some reading I didn't have the air box on either so that would have been a problem too. LOL I will reinstall everything and then make that decision when I get to that point.
Well more updates. This happened a few days ago but the GF wanted me to come to bed so it had to wait till today to update you all.
Rebuilt the petcock
Over all not looking bad
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0170Large.jpg)
Took out the drain screw
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0172Large.jpg)
And the diaphragm parts 1 and 2
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0178Large.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0177.jpg)
Gonna upload the video to youtube for you all to listen to.
As promised the Vision on its first start running almost completely on its own. It still does not have a battery so it was running on the truck battery with some long heavy jumper cables but the carbs is what I was really playing with that night.
PS DO THE DEW!!!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13WkgPIv9wo
PS forgive the crappy camera work I was really happy it ran.
Ok after getting the airbox back on and all the extra vacuum lines run it now has an off idle dieing problem. Here is what was happening.
Put the choke on try to start it 3 times and it finally catches an runs at about 2000 - 3000 RPMs.
After the bike warmed up pull the choke off and it idles happly at 1300RPM. If I open the throttle even a little tiny bit it dies. If I restart it, put the choke on and let it go up to 3000 - 3500 RPMs I can open the throttle and it will go up proportionally. Then while holding it open at say 4000 RPMs i can let off the choke no problem and throttle it up and down as long as I dont let it get back to idle its fine but if I let it drop to idle then if I open the throttle it will die again.
Now my question to the experts, will syncing the carbs fix this or is a good cleaning in order?
Edit: This is the last major hurdle before the bike becomes a riding resoration and not a garage restoration.
I only became an expert this past Monday when I synched my carbs for the first time. The symptoms you describe are nearly identical to what I experienced after having my carbs cleaned. First I adjusted the idle jets for max RPM for both carbs, then synched carbs at approximately 1500-2500 RPM (higher RPM removes some of the flutter from the bouncing liquid). Readjusted idle for 1300. Engine Idles, starts, and runs smoothly without stumbling (so far). Wishing you well. BDC
Sweet, I feel a run to ace hardware coming on.
Well I got the carbs sync'ed and it did help the off idle stumble. Thanks Re-Vision. I took a look at the accelerator pump area and I have an early 82 carb with the airbox mod from the looks of it (no stop screw)
Don't know how sensitive the home made sync gauge is but I made it using the air restricters from my commercial carb sync (I would have used that but the fluid evaporated) some 1/4 inch clear tubing and some 5wt fork oil. I know when I hooked the gauge I had the difference in vacuum was less than 1in of Mg between the carbs so it is really sensitive to small changes.
Carbs Sync-ed
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0197.jpg)
Ok now I think I found my problem and I think I know the answer but please tell me if this is right or wrong since I have not worked on a carb since Clinton was getting BJ's under the desk in the oval office. The tube circled in red is the accelerator nozzle and should squirt gas when ever the throttle is twisted right? (even off which is why people twist the throttle before they start the bike) And it should be a spray like a squirt bottle type cone right past the butterfly right. Well if I open the throttle on mine nothing comes out and it stumbles/stalls.
The nozzle in green starts spraying gas in the higher RPM's say 5000+ RPMs with the butterflies open and the engine running only. I think that's right and its being drawn out via the low pressure the venturi is creating. Or is all this totally off and you all need to beat me with the stupid stick until basic carb theory comes back to me? ;D
Edit: Did some digging on the site and I probably have a leaking YCIS. Thanks Lucky, it was your port in another thread that clued me into what the problem with the RPMs coming down slowly was.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0202.jpg)
Sounds like you're on the right track.
"Ok now I think I found my problem and I think I know the answer but please tell me if this is right or wrong since I have not worked on a carb since Clinton was getting BJ's under the desk in the oval office. The tube circled in red is the accelerator nozzle and should squirt gas when ever the throttle is twisted right? (even off which is why people twist the throttle before they start the bike) And it should be a spray like a squirt bottle type cone right past the butterfly right. Well if I open the throttle on mine nothing comes out and it stumbles/stalls."
yes, the acellerator nozzle should squirt gas when:
the throttle is opened quickly even if the bike is turned off (only on 82 carbs, I don't think the little squirts work on 83 carbs when it is turned off)
and provided that the linkage is connected ;)
when you first open the throttle (butterflies) there is a large amount of air entering the ventri... the accelerator squirt adds a little gas to combat the intial lean condition caused by the extra volume of air.... without the squirt, you will definately stumble and may stall
once things catch up to each other (the air and gas ratio) the extra boost of gas is no longer need.
that's the basics... you still need clean carbs, correct pilot screw and sync adjustments to get rid of the stumble.... not to mention NO vac leaks
More pictures for you guys.
Dirty Carb Shot 1
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0208.jpg)
Dirty Carb Shot 2
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0211.jpg)
Dirty Carb Shot 3
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0219.jpg)
One of the Carbs all nice and clean
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0233.jpg)
Got the rear tire off to do the brakes and swap tires. Will have pics later. Going to go to the store to get new gasket material for the float bowl gasket later today as well.
quick update, got the carbs on found the leak in the front carb boot. Grrr going to fix that today. Also got the rear wheel off and have cleaned it up and put new bearings in it and got a bike master maintenance free battery installed. We are getting close now. All we need to do now is get the front caliper coated with paint or powder coat, rebuild it, install the rear brake shoes, replace the brace bar bolts, then tires and carb tuning and we will be rocking and rolling.
Yeah man!! Getting Close!!!!!!!!!!
Rear brake shoes installed :) pics later..
Ok front caliper got rebuilt a while ago but the camera was MIA.
Got new/used carb boots from the guy who had it before me. He had them and was looking for them for me but only found them a few days ago. So here is where it stands.
Tank is off but with a temporary tank rigged up and everything put back together it runs but electrical gremlins are back. Looks like one of the wires to the main power relay is broken where it flexes. And something is loose because the new fuse box was working fine but now none of the warning lights light up high beam, oil pressure and neutral lights are all dark.
And it looks like the carbs did not get clean enough. Well really it looks like the accelerator nozzles are still clogged or more likely is that some dirt or debris broke loose and found its way there because the spray was fine a few days ago but after running it yesterday the spray is crap today.
Quote from: sunburnedaz on September 26, 2009, 03:05:16 AM
since Clinton was getting BJ's under the desk in the oval office.
You might want to talk to a Dr. about this fascination with Clinton in the oval office ;D
Final update. It runs, its insured, its titled and its got a historic plate. hehe Time to ride the piss out of this thing.
Ok I lied that was not the final update. This is.
The cooling system got flushed and it was all rusty when I flushed it. I ordered a new fuse box since the one I was using was junk since one of the tabs cracked causing the indicators to go out. And a new 8 gauge main power cable was fitted to the positive side. New brake light switches are on order since about 1/2 the time the front one sticks down. But the bike did get out and about and the girlfriend rode on it and first words out of her mouth were you can not sell this bike. LOL I did get all the paper work squared away and now it sports the Arizona copper classic vehicle plate.
Here is the bike from the front quarter.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0295.jpg)
From the right side
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0297.jpg)
The new mileage after some riding with the girlfriend. We met the previous owner who is a great friend of mine and he was shocked when he saw it in the parking lot of starbucks that night. And my local shop guys who have been ordering parts for me were shocked too when I pulled up.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0300.jpg)
The girlfriend posing in front of the bike at Cave Creek Coffee Company after our ride up there.
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0293.jpg)
If you want to KEEP your GF looking as good as your Vision make sure to get her PROPER riding equipment. Those pants will not stay on her if she was to unfortunately fall off the bike. And the running shoes should be replaced with at least something with WAY MORE ankle protection. Some gloves wouldn't hurt to keep her fingers there just in case you decide to slip a ring on one of them later in the future.
Quote from: vadasz1 on November 30, 2009, 09:27:25 AM
If you want to KEEP your GF looking as good as your Vision make sure to get her PROPER riding equipment. Those pants will not stay on her if she was to unfortunately fall off the bike. And the running shoes should be replaced with at least something with WAY MORE ankle protection. Some gloves wouldn't hurt to keep her fingers there just in case you decide to slip a ring on one of them later in the future.
That pic was taken after we had time to strip off our gear. Gloves are in the helment, the touring pants are in the backpack and better shoes are in the works.
Hey, I like the fork brace and the "tuning fork" disk!
Yeah, La Femme is nice too.
"tuning fork" disk???? care to enlighten me on that one?
The little yamaha disc that is in fact 3 tuning forks and the vintage corporate Yamaha symbol. It is visible on the tank and not stock for the V???
Correct me.
Oh I guess you are right that is not stock on the V but the tank came that way and I kinda like it better than the YAMAHA emblem spelled out.
I like the decal better also. Where can I get one, perhaps a wee bit larger. Anyone know? BDC
Looking good! You're doing well. The clutch cable looks a bit unrestrained.
Quote from: Re-Vision on November 30, 2009, 09:14:33 PM
I like the decal better also. Where can I get one, perhaps a wee bit larger. Anyone know? BDC
Guy on e-bay has 50mm ones and says they are for a boat if that helps.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-ATV-Motorcycle-Boat-Emblem-Sticker-Set-NEW-20B_W0QQitemZ300337987220QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ATV_Parts_Accessories?hash=item45ed89fe94
Quote from: QBS on November 30, 2009, 11:43:23 PM
Looking good! You're doing well. The clutch cable looks a bit unrestrained.
True true. So......... how does it route then. When i took it off I swore it was loose like it is in the pics.
it's supposed to go behind the radiator and snake up through the inside of the headlight bracketry..
can't tell, but yours might be a tad long.... can you tell us how many tads long it is? maybe someone has a known 82 clutch cable to compare
The last page of the Yamaha manual and all of my assembled bikes show the cable above the radiator going between the forks and bending back by the odometer reset knob on the way to the clutch lever. BDC
Ok so I re routed the clutch cable after I took the pictures.
I found some more parts that were part of the purchase price of the vision but I didn't want to open them till I got the bike running. Now that it is running time for some exploring in more parts.
First I got some OEM Yamaha engine guards. Even still had the instructions with them :o
Right Side
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0324.jpg)
Left Side
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0323.jpg)
I also got the full fairing kit with braces and mirrors.
Nose Piece
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0329.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0328.jpg)
Right Side Faring
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0332.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0334.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/Stingray99alfa/XZ-550%20RJ/Rebuild/IMG_0331.jpg)
The fairings are in rough shape but I am going to start on them as a winter project. Going to repair the fiberglass, sand and paint them here at the house over the next few months so that this old girl can have a new shiny fairing set to match the new shiny tank she has.
You've got some tasty bits. Hope you got the correct mirrors and low rise risers. Other mirrors can be fitted but they don't look as good as the correct ones'. The correct risers look and work much better with the fairing handlebar cut outs than the high risers do. Also, set back foot pegs were part of the full fairing set up. They complete the low riser, set back foot peg, ergonomic package.
Do you have a radiator shroud? BDC
Quote from: QBS on December 09, 2009, 12:05:28 PM
You've got some tasty bits. Hope you got the correct mirrors and low rise risers. Other mirrors can be fitted but they don't look as good as the correct ones'. The correct risers look and work much better with the fairing handlebar cut outs than the high risers do. Also, set back foot pegs were part of the full fairing set up. They complete the low riser, set back foot peg, ergonomic package.
Mirrors - Yes.
Risers - don't know. I have an extra set of them but they are the same size the current ones. How could I tell.
Foot pegs - Dont know, how would I find out?
Quote from: Re-Vision on December 09, 2009, 01:02:12 PM
Do you have a radiator shroud? BDC
Yes 2 of them. I had it installed before I swapped rads the other day. I was getting over heating issues because the rad was so plugged up even after flushing it and running a high performance fluid. I had already cleaned a spare rad that I had and was all pretty so I swapped that one over to the bike. I need to put the shroud back on.
Before the swap running down the road with the speedo pegged in 40 degree weather I would still have the temp between the 2/3 and HOT mark. If I sat in traffic it would over heat and boil the coolant into the overflow till it puked it onto the street. After the swap I did the same run and it sat between the 1/4 and 1/2 mark. Sitting in traffic it only gets up to the 7/8ths mark before the fan kicks on and drops it to the 3/4 mark and then turns off.
Nathaniel, 83 risers are a couple of inches shorter than the 82's, steel part of footpegs are built different so as to position them farther back. Got your check. When you install the fairing you will have to remove the engine guard. BDC
Quote from: Re-Vision on December 09, 2009, 05:31:50 PM
When you install the fairing you will have to remove the engine guard. BDC
:'( permanently?
LOL you know my real name now. haha
or Rick can make you a custom top tripple tree like he made me. (for my birthday, Thanks again Rick!) Rick welds common bar clamps to our risers so you can use whatever tube bars you choose...
the taller 82 risers will hit the windshield on an 83, but if you angle them just so only the corner of the master cyl will hit (scrape actually) the inside of the windshield for about 3/8ths of an inch. until i install ricks tripple & find bars for it, i have made a clip that installs over the windshield for the corner of the master cyl to slide over.
--Lucky
Quote from: sunburnedaz on December 09, 2009, 07:16:34 PM
Quote from: Re-Vision on December 09, 2009, 05:31:50 PM
When you install the fairing you will have to remove the engine guard. BDC
:'( permanently?
:) You have choices here:
1 x Keep the engine guards. Install the upper fairing only.
2 x Remove the engine guards and install the FULL fairing.
3 x As #2.......but cut up the fairing lowers to accommodate the engine guards!!!
8).......TIGER....... 8)
Damn, Well my pretty newly cleaned up rad was cleaned so well that it cleaned out the crud out of the TINY hole in one of the rad tubes. I have cleaned out the original one that was on the bike lets hope it doesn't have the same problem of this old one.
Quote from: sunburnedaz on December 01, 2009, 02:00:16 AM
Quote from: Re-Vision on November 30, 2009, 09:14:33 PM
I like the decal better also. Where can I get one, perhaps a wee bit larger. Anyone know? BDC
Guy on e-bay has 50mm ones and says they are for a boat if that helps.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-ATV-Motorcycle-Boat-Emblem-Sticker-Set-NEW-20B_W0QQitemZ300337987220QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ATV_Parts_Accessories?hash=item45ed89fe94
http://www.angelfire.com/home/SH0ckforce/TuningForkEmblem/index.html
Has anyone tried these emblems, they look pretty good to me even though a little expensive. BDC