Looks like I'm grounded again (cooling system)

[Extent]

It was really hot on saturday and I did about an hour of really low speed (<20mph) exersizes.  Temperature didn't seem to be a problem, the guage stayed no less than 1/4" away from the red zone at it's hottest and the fan was coming on like it was supposed to, but when I stopped for a break it piddled a little bit of coolant on the ground and I noticed that it sounded like it was burbeling in the water jackets and obviously from the resovoir (just bubbling lightly, not steaming).  This happened again later when I actually went out for a ride, I stopped after a stretch of road after keeping up a decent pace and heard the kind of light boiling sound again (didn't overflow any this time, since it had expanded all the way earlier)  When it cools down again the water level goes all the way down to the low mark, if I add any it just gets pushed out again once it heats up all the way.  Then when I got home it dumped a fair bit of coolant out the weep hole (hey, when she's mad, she's mad  :P )

So I'm thinking that maybe the water pump isn't working right?  Could water be flowing up to the temperature sensor purely by convection, which is why the temp guage does show the temperature, and the fan comes on, but it's really much hotter than that which is why it ends up boiling(?) in the water jackets.

I've got to take the bike to Laguna Seca in a months time and I defenatly don't want any kind of cooling problems (this time).  I'm going to bail from work early tomorrow, take off the right side cover and poke around, see if anything looks amiss (and it's brand new coolant in there too, grrr.)  I'm going to replace the oil and mechanical seal on the water pump from DYG, and get a full set of Cometic gaskets (for both sides, gonna fix that oil leak from the stator gromets once and for all... again..)  Would it be worth it to just replace the bearing as well, I'm tempted since it's only 10 bucks.  Tdub recomends replacing the shaft as well, but DYG lists that as unavailable.

I really want to order all the bits tonight, but I'm going to wait untill I have it all apart incase I have to get anything else.  Does it sound like I'm going in the right direction, or am I missing something obvious?

[QBS]

Main oil seal that lives in the right side cover and is penetrated by the end of the crankshaft.  Replace and reassemble with great care and thoughtfulness.

[Tiger]

:) Extent,
     If you have flushed the system and refilled with fresh coolant, at the correct mix,I assume...(hate that word!!!)...you have bled the system already.
:) You may just need to "Bleed" the cooling system......(again),  :o However, if you have bought your seal's, oil filter, etc....when you drain the coolant out & removed the water pump housing,etc, back flush the WHOLE system....rad included, do your overhaul/repair's, put her all back together, refill fluid's, get her up to working temp' and bleed her off...... 8)
Oh...invest in a new rad' cap with the correct pressure rating.... ::)

[Lucky]

It might be a good idea to locate another impeller & shaft, just-in-case.  they have been known to corrode away, so if you have one on standby ready to ship (Tiger) you'll have it if you need it.

(notice how now we are starting to assume Tiger has the parts we need??)

[Tiger]

It might be a good idea to locate another impeller & shaft, just-in-case.  they have been known to corrode away, so if you have one on standby ready to ship (Tiger) you'll have it if you need it.

(notice how now we are starting to assume Tiger has the parts we need??)

;D....I gotta guess....3 donor "V"s  ;D ;D ;D :D :D ;) I can soon pull one off for you, Extent, if you need the/any part(s).... 8)

[Extent]

I'll defenatly be replacing the main oil seal, I've heard a lot about it on the right side.

I haven't bled the system since I noticed the burbling, but I'm fairly certain I've got it filled all the way, I followed the Haynes instruction to the letter.  When I did my coolant last year I didn't get it right at first and the temp guage didn't read at all since it was in an air pocket.  This time the guage is working perfectly, cools off to slightly less tha half when moving and warms up when standing still.  I haven't ordered anything yet, but since coolant is coming out the weep hole I'm gonna get in there and replace the seals, I'm not ruling out a compound problem here either.  I have flushed the system out (with just plain water) each time I've replaced it.

I'm a little confused about the rad cap though.  I thought that was to let off pressure if you overheated to prevent things from bursting. 

Tiger has become a regular parts warehouse after all :p

I'll know tomorrow night if I need anything, but first sleep :D....

[louthepou]

Being rested is a really good idea before needing your brain to make sure you're doing everything right!

I just want to add one question to the mix; would a simple thermostat be a potential area of trouble?

Lou

[Night Vision]

I'm a little confused about the rad cap though.  I thought that was to let off pressure if you overheated to prevent things from bursting. 

The cap also pressurizes the cooling system, which in turn, raises the boiling point of the coolant

[Kenny]

   Hi,
   Unless you are getting a lot of anti-freeze from the drain hole I would look elsewhere.All the V's I have had weeped a bit of fluid at different times, the first one I had resealed under warranty & it took three attempts to fix. These seals are very fussy & can crack easily, also we found that the white  porcelean seal rubber needed sealant beneath the rubber  area of the rubber as the metal was porus.
   What position is the small hole in your thermostat at?
                     Keep trying. Cheers Ken S 

[Extent]

Well it wasn't just a couple drops, it made a small puddle.  I'll defenatly be checking the thermostat, the vent hole is at the top.  Could the coolant have just forced it's way past the seal because it was extremely hot, and could that have damaged them in the process?  I'll see if I can find a way to rig up a test for the rad cap.  I'll be diggin in in about an hour, wish me luck :p

[supervision]

  wash the cap up real good  clean the radiator neck, also wash the raditor core out (lots of dust and dirt collect and hinder its eficency), blow dry if possible.  The hot coolant will open the preasure cap and relieve itself as it exceeds the caps pressure rating, puking it into the catch tank... later as it  cools off, it draws back out of the catch tank to complely refill itself.   It's best to remove the tank and remove the bolt for bleeding out air and filling to the max. Use some never sieze on that bolt, actually I started using never sieze on every bolt and I love it the next time I take it apart.   Let's ride Clyde!   My seal weeps too.  (I throw it a fish now and then)    They can leak a little that's why they put the hole there.    The seal is made of ceramic and some other hard material, 2  small circles spring loaded against eachother, one stationary one spins, the coolant keeps them from burning each other up so they also pee alittle.......

[Extent]

Well the thermostat looks ok, starts opening around 180* and opens fully at just over .8 cm.  Everything looks to be in decent shape so my current plan is just to wait for my gaskets to come in (next Tues, according to DGY), put it all back together, refill it and hope it goes away.  Ordered a new rad cap just in case, if it's fine then I'll just have some more spare parts.  If it still seems to be boiling then I'll try replacing it all with Yamacool.

In the meantime I'm going to take the opportunity to sand and paint my engine cases, weeeeee.