Riders Of Vision

A new one is 145 plus shipping.
a used one is half that.
So I made a choice based on my position.
REWIND.
I got the stator off and stripped. IT has six feet of wire on each pole. so six times eighteen plus a few feet equals a hunner'd a fiddy feet that the guy at the wire place is gonne sell me.
he gonne sell me the spray insul and the tubeing to wrap it all up in.
twenty bucks.
the really trick part is gonne be NOT breaking the wores as I solder it back on.  very delicate and dangerous time then. One break and its all over but the crying. redo.

what i can't get over is all the wires touch till they go out into three, The three ins are grouped together and joined, solder'd,pushed down to the rest of the wires and insul sprayed. The three outs touch all the way around . only untill one seperates them as the wires are solder'd are the then no longer touching each other.
 my minde wants them to never touch like speaker wires..

Where do I get the Electrical connectors and how do I change them out?

Hope you have strong hands and patience. I did 3 of them and it's no fun. They only lasted 100 miles or so. Keeping the wires from shorting to ground is the tricky part. I thought they found some ceramic magnet wire that's rated for like 200 deg. celcius.

A guy showed me how to tie the 3 wires together. Just twist them and use an Oxy Acetelene torch to melt them together at the end and insulate. Seems like they fail when too much heat is generated between the wire and they short together or to ground.

Good luck!  ;D

QuoteHope you have strong hands and patience. I did 3 of them and it's no fun. They only lasted 100 miles or so. Keeping the wires from shorting to ground is the tricky part. Seems like they fail when too much heat is generated between the wire and they short together or to ground.

Good luck! ?;D

yours only lasted a hunner'd miles? three times?
How did you go wrong do you suppose? not insulated well enough? were the poles nicked or cracked?
now you got me worried.
awwa life is a crapshoot anyhoo.
I heard that a new stator is subject to fail too.
What was the look of the stators you installed?

all I can do is make sure the poles look pristine before winding with gloves and spray it till I can't see the wires.
Maybe the wire guy can DIP it for me. or something.
 thats a thinker.  

how did you insulate yours?
gimme a step by step.. please...

scoot, make sure that the poles that you are wrapping the wires around are not even remotely sharp, nor the immediate adjacent areas.  no nicking, ever, is the name of the game. some detail filing is probably in order.  also, it will be massivly important to be able to hold the stator assembly in an immobile way.  it would be worth your time to make some sort of fixture out of wood that can be held in a vise.  the fixture should allow complete access to the poles without having to move it during the wrapping process.  the fixture could be as simple as a 2 x 6 that is notched a little at the end so you can jam and toenail or screw the stator to it. then clamp the assy sideways in the vise.  don't worry about the wire ends at this time except to keep them nick free.  as i'm sure you know since you took your old stator apart, you can wrap one wire at a time, every third pole.  take your time.  there is no measurable electrical benefit to making the wraps particularly (analy) tight around the poles, just snug, not loose,, and no sharp bends!  sharp bends can lead to the insulation cracking and flaking off.  
if your own workspace will not allow the above, find one that will.  otherwise you will waste your time

I've never done this but here's some stator rewind instructions for a Suzuki:
http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorrewind.htm

By now you should know why they cost $145 but, if you have the time and patience. A word of caution, somebody suggested that it is not necessary to keep the wraps tight. That is NOT true. If you do not keep them tight, the constant pulsing of the AC generated current will cause the wraps to rub together and wear the coating(insulation) off. Goodbye to all that work!

OY I had it in the vise and I was a'pullin' wores and it slipped a little. So what do I do? I crank down on the ol' visey wisey(Wrapped in thick foam for an easy grip) and break a corner offen one of the poles. OY!
Dang this is lookin' Gahrim. ahahaha!
I can epoxy that part I guess.  mold/build it back up.
as I will spray the entire stator with an insul epoxy  prior to wrapping the wores.
the board idea is a good'n. I have wood . oh yeah baby I got me some WOOD! ahahaha!

a few of thoughts on the rewind.....  
1) be sure that you go the same way around all the poles.
2) when I took mine apart there were some fiber material around some of the poles, installed before the wire was wound on.  it looked like it was supposed to protect the wire from sharp edges.  i dunno if it really worked, as my stator was rrreally fried and i couldn't tell for sure what the material was.  some electrical rewind shops use cardboard, but motor coils are not usually bathed in motor oil.
3) when I took mine apart I counted the turns and found that the one of the poles was missing one turn and the next pole had one extra turn, but the total on each of the three legs was the same.  
4) when I measured the wire that came off i concluded that it must be a metric wire and that American wire comes in sizes bigger or smaller.  i opted for bigger, but had a hard time getting the same number of turns as was on the original.  I had to wind it really tight to get the same number of turns.

I haven't put mine back together yet, so i don't have any results for you.

re. coil wrapping tightness, there is a happy medium here.  the stock piece is the model.  too tight and there is a danger of stretching the wire, and breaking things.  either will lead to insulation damage and a wasted effort.  remember, that in the manufacturing environment where these are made, most of this work is done by 100lb asian women who will, like all production workers in my experience, will not expend excess muscular effort if it is not required to get the part past testing and the foreman.  think sitting down at a bench with a special fixture to hold things together while you wrap and the above mentioned production worker and i'm surre you will get the idea.  this is not a test of testosterone!

I got all the wores off and stiff brushed it.
I counted the wraps as well as I could and I got 29 28 and 27 as near as I could figger it.
Maybe they all the same thing but the wire kept breaking and OY!. So I measured a piece and I had  70 inches on the pole or six feet from pole to pole.
Someone told me I could MEASURE the OHMS RESISTANCE on a pole. HOW?
I'd rather have one wrap less than one more.
wrapping it up with masking tape so I can either dip it or spray it with insul epoxy.
I'm gonna test wrap a  leg  with some extra wore. to see if my  math cakkalations are correct.
I'l take it back off and count as well.
I only wish to do this once.

scoot, i remember in the archives that someone did this fairly recently and gave the number of turns.  the measuring thing is to use the ohmeter part of your multimeter and toughing the ind of the wire and the core with the other probe.  if you get zero ohms or near that you have a short already. it should read infinity ohms for no short

I looked in the archives and failed to find the article about the number of windes. .
Thanks though.
Anybody know?

OKay I got two poles test wound and man do I have a tough time remembering what wind I'm on. ahahah!
So I tried the measureing trick and got 70 eenches and 2 for the stretch from pole to pole. I wound twenty- nine times and still had a goodely amoont left till my  black measuremark.

so I gave it another winde. THIRTY. it's fat and mishaped and retarded looking and I still have woom till my mark. So I cut it back to twentynine and marked and wound the next one to see.  
twenty nine gruesome windes later I got a mishaped hulk on the pole and a foot till my mark.. ahahaha!
I can see where a notched and sanded  wooden clothes pin would be a cool tool here.

an' so it goes.
All that will come off and I'll epox and coat after I mask the entire metal area with high quality tape.  I'll tape a strip aroun' the outside and spray it well .
the main thing seems to be keeping the pole bulk evened out.
What if the wires touch each other from pole to pole? you know, after winding all the poles. the wires touch any way right?
 before I spray them?

If I do a total redo with brand new wores through out the case as well What type of wores should I use. I cannot use the same winding wire.. I must use a heavier shielded type.
I have wire of that nature but would'nt I need a high heat and oil resistant wire instead? of course ,i'll liberally coat em with varnish and epox.
I just need an idea of what type to shoot for. And where to get connectors?
I DO wish to install an inline voltmeter. Ideas?

I got the winding wire and insul spray enamel. I got several coats on the taped up core. I took the tape off and man it looks goode.
I'll let it dry  then retape and do another couple of coats.
I found the lead wires to run from the stator to the rr on a shelf at the place where I got my high temp coated winding wire.
so I'll be taking them out and replaceing  those. OY..
I'm nervous about the rubber grommetts. I went back and downloaded all the info i could finde.
there sure is a lot to choose from.
It's funny going way back and seeing where  LUCKY is a newbie. ahahaha!
anyhoo. the core is drying and ready for coats two and three.
then winding.

WINDING. I got 17 gauge. I found where there were mention of DIY with 25,winds and 29 windes.
I thought I got 29 windes once. but then I also got 28, and 27 too.
What if I went with 28?
28 windes. If there were s'posed to be 29 windes what would that do?

and why would one cat have twenty-five windes on his stock stator?
I

I got twelve of eighteen wrapped and only  most of em' are birdnested and all retarded lookin' the other one is purty.
ahahahah!  :-[ OY!
anyway the stuff I used chipped off to the black as I wrapped some of the poles and some of the windings are no where near tight as they should be.
a few poles got really out of whack and the wores touch on each pole so affected.
I may have miscounted windings several times.  up and down..
All in all a veddy sloppy and newbie job. I'm trying to STAY IN THE LINES like a four year old. wind,wind,wind oops unwind,un wind unwind.. rewind,rewind,rewind dang...
I have no craftsmanship abilities when it comes to engineering a fixx. I'm sorta' not really gifted in that depatment.  Oh Yah!
the insul spray seems thin at best so I may have to find something else to cover the windings.

I Found stainless Slot/spade connectors and some really nice emery cloth for buffing the tci spade connectors.
I will change out the ground wore as well as well as mod a few wires with solder/splice and  flat change out as in the ground.
the horror story by ofstone about stuff in his pickup scream almost made me go buy a gasket but I figger I'll wait for the next time I pull the stator cover. OY!
thin bead.. thin bead..
 I'f I get a hunner'd miles from the stator I'll be surprised ahahaha! it looks that bad Compared to a new one. ahahaha LOL!
maybe the insul spray will cover it well.
Maybe some  insul epoxy?

melting the three copper wires together is gonne be fun.
i'll practice a few times with some extra wore. .
Thanks for lettin' me share..  

I got em all wrapped and i see now why it's very important to tightly wind the windings.
Eighteen guage would be better to use only I used seventeen per advice I received.
On many poles the wires got twisted and are standing on each other piggyback.
]as soon as the vibrations set in from engine activity they're gonna shake loose and begin to roll around.

My $12.50 insul spray seems thin and inadequate for the job of insulating the wores.
I have one coat on and will try to overcoatat least three more times  or till the spraycan goes out. I have a half can left. I really wish to coat them wores.
I have a sinking feeling that it ain't gonna be goode enough. maybe a real craftsman would have made a better job of it.
I'm flyin' blind mostly. LOL!.

Used Stator off eBay: $21.00
New Gasket from Yamaha: $8.95
Time from Burnt Stator to riding again: 16 Days
Reading ScooterTramp's postings regarding his Stator Rebuild: Priceless

Seriously, I give you credit for trying it.  I would not even think about attempting it.  I give you credit.

~Chris
PS: If I am asking you to search, I already have probable cause and will (One way or another).

I got like five or six or seven coats of that spray on now and it seems to be coating the wraps well. ?
it looks a lot like the ELECTREX one as far as being glossy and all.
Mine ain't got all the purty colors it's just RED from the spray. ?but it seems to look like the electrex one now.
The insul spray has filled in all the gaps and what not really well. that stuff dries fast too.
It's going a lot quicker now that all that ?stripping and core cleaning and winding is done.
I have all the connectors cleaned, emery'd and ready to go plus three new ones. .

I found one connection that needs to be solder'd(it's crimped) and then its vroom,vroom time. FTW.. I'm goin' ridin'! ahahaha!
P.S to the punk crooked cop that is talkin' cash crap about putting his crooked punk hand on me or my property cause he has a little badge and a big ol' gun and thinks he cain't be got goode fashin needs to look up how many unsolved cop murders there were last year.. ahahahaha!
. Just cause you too stoopid to attempt a fix of this magnitude does'nt mean everyone is a DUMB CROOk COP like you..
I'm haveing an adventure trying this . Win lose or draw I'm learning stuff..
 FOK YOU!.

uh thanks for lettin me share! ahahaha!
Next is an INLINE VOLT METER and a FLAY! a FLAY YOU SAY? ?YAY! a FLAY! FLAY!
that flay seems daunting as the stator. I hope I can make it hoppen.. I ain't good with technical stuff like that. It seems very complicated to me.
Has anyone made a FLAY and if so what is the prognosis?
the inline voltmeter is veddy cool too. ?tomorrow will ?tell the tale.
clickety whirr dang!

OY! I got it installed in the cover.
I went to check it and it's TESTING BAD. DOUBLE DANG DANG!
JEhosaphat!
I got .058 on all three wires coming off the stator.
the testing sheet from electrex says if it showes any number between 0 and 100 it's bad.  
what did I do wrong? I mean besides NOT getting a new part.. Jeesh!
I was all hoppy and chompin' at the bit to go riding and NOW OY!
I let the wores touch cause they were gonna touch anyway.
what do you suppose I did to mess it up?
any  thoughtful suggestions at this point would be appreciated..                    

It is a little unclear to me, what are you measuring that should not be between 0 and 100? maybee the resistance between wires and housing?  Do you use an analog meter or a digital one?
To me it looks like you are doing a very good job, because you are trying to make a new stator, that will have a better lifetime, than an original one. I hope you succeed ;)

It is better to make one that costs at least more time and money than an original one and that last for 50.000 miles(or forever), than buying one that will only last for 15.000 miles.

Oops, sorry did not read your other post!

Quoteuh thanks for lettin me share! ahahaha!

Scoot,
We gotta ride together sometime.  I think we both will have one hell of a good time together...

Da Kruket kop,
Chris

This is me  8)
Me workin' on my bike  :P
me in the wind  8)
my blind twin brother  8)
My OTHER blind twin brother Darryl  8)
 My uncle Dom blowing a "family" kiss to my new buddy  :-*
it's a small world after all. ahahaha!

Resistence between test leads. .000
Resistence between wires .000
resistence between stator cover and bolted up stator .580
what have I done?????

Scoot,
Somewhere, there is a wire touching somewhere where it shouldn't.  If you had the Stator grounded to the Stator cover with a ground wire, you would have 0 resistance.  If there was absolutely no contact between the Stator and the Cover (or rotor or any other grounded metal engine part) there should be an infinate or "OL" resistence.  It sounds like you have a contact somewhere, but it's not a solid, perfect ground.

I would think that the most probable place for an unwanted connection would be where the stator wires come off the Stator, before they pass under the cover plate in the stator cover.

Good Luck,
Chris

Hummph..
okay.. we'll chat..
so what you are typing out is: I "want to have" a CURRENT to be able to FLOWE UNINTERUPPTED BETWEEN MY STATOR AND COVER thus no resistence or another word  word: continuity?
I want the wires to be grounded to the stator cover?
thats what the chart says.  but iffen thas' the case  then the current generated by the stator wil FLOW to the COVER? Do i want the current to flowe to the stator cover? Or do i want the flowe to be only down the wires to the RR and beyond??
I feel as if im' in upside down town..
you would think that you would want the flow to be down the wires only.. why do you want resistence on the wires but none on the cover?
I'm sorry I just don't get it. please excuse my mental lapse as I was dropped on my haid repeatedly at a very tender age..
If I can just figger this out. The only thing I can do is tear it down and tray again being more careful to insulate.
There was nothing on mine other than wire and core. So i sprayed the core .next time I'll get TWO cans and heavy coat the core and use smaller wire and be WAY more gentle with it and use a different technique to wind it this time and maybe jus' maybe with some goode advice and the GREAT MORAL SUPPORT around this hole I'll be toolin' it in the winde a'fore you kin say j

Okay when you have a connection between two wires joined by a connector AND IT GETS CORRODED it will IMPEDE the FLOW and CAUSE RESISTENCE. correct? so in theory the there should be INFINTE RESISTENCE between stator and cover? correct? which means a solid DAM blocking the flow. that .58 SAYS THERE IS a bleeding effect GOING ON.
is this correct?
I insulated the  three join at the stator according to spec.'s..
I was uneasy about doing anything off manual specs.
I sourced many avenues before undertaking this project.. My other hobbies include reading science fiction and horror and flying DUAL STRANGED STUNT BATTLE KITES. thanks for letting me share..
ahemm.
so I had a  little time to kill ahahaha! I hardly ever watch the boob tube.. LOL.
Music is much better. helps me thank. (extended silence....)
Anyhoo, this is killin' my brain tryin' to understand the problem. should the resistence be INFINET between stator and cover then?
I can unbolt the stator from the cover again and check buy they aint much I can do .
If I try to cover the wires with shrink wrap the heat may cause them to flake off. If i try to wrap a layer of that wide wire sheathing around the wires coming directly off the stator all under that retaining bracket it may work and could solve the problem if that's what's wong.
somebody tell me something goode.. PLEASE thankee.. :-X
 

does anyone know the size of the bolts for the stator. They ain't gonne take another off and on. I am gonne get new ones. maybe hex head..  them crossheads suck.  I reckon I'll take it off again.
whats the deal with the between wire test? have i messed up there too? I thought .000 resistence meant no blockage at all. uninteruppted flowe..
OY!
I put loktite red on them bolts..  ahahaha!
I need a pill.. oh wait I don't take pills except for my one a day vitamin. and my extra C tab. and my two calcium pills. and my three condroitin pills and my two fish oil pills to go along with the five st' johns wort I take four times a day.. other than that and the occasional acetaminephine thats all.
cain't get drunk.  I Dont drink alkyhall. So  I cuss a lot ahahaha! it gets me through; hard on the olde neighbors though..
first olde biddy: "theres that mean boy slingin tools and yellin' at that rocket bike"
seconde biddy: "I don't know why he just don't sell it". all he does seems like is a'mechanic on that sickle.
first olde biddy:  my he does looks strong. i wonder how long he'd last?
seconde olde biddy: MYRTLE!

I got the three holding the stator  OFF but the lower bolt for the bracket is wallowed and difficult to reach.
 maybe a thick point, long shank bit is in order; definite change out on that one.
The only thing goode is if it wallows out the head  too much you can still grip it with small vise grips long nose for sure.
the upper bolte is okay and should come out fine.
I'll wrap it and set it back down and check it.
should I bolt it back or can I just lay it in there to check it?
I found a thick long bit that seems made to order. we'll see.
I got it off, wrapped the wires coming off the stator and where they go into the bracket. NO CHANGE in readings.
I also resprayed it.
I see that I must have grounded out  a wore on the core and the core is touching the cover and so I get.58 instead of infinite resistence?
Is this most likely correct?

Scoot,
You should have absolutely no electrical connection between the Stator and the Stator Cover/Engine. If there is a solid connection between the stator and the cover, you would have a zero (0) resistance (Not what you want).  A zero reading tells you that there is free flowing electricity from point A to point B with nothing restricting that flow of electricity.  As that connection gets less and less grounded, your OHms reading would become a higher and higher reading until the multitester us unable to read the resistence and you get a reading of "OL" (Over the limit) or "Error" or "Infinate".  When this happens, there is no longer a connection between the stator and the stator cover (This IS what you want).

As for finding where that unwanted connection is....  Good Luck.  I assume that, while the Stator is out of the bike, you could check the resistence between the end of one of the wires and the center hub of the Stator.  This should be able to tell you if there is an unwanted electrical connection under one of the poles, thus grounding out the stator to the cover when installed.  As to which pole????

Someone tell me if I am wrong on this.  This is just my uneducated guess and may not actually be correct.

~Chris  

Hey motor!
whoa pardner you might be onta sumpin there..
I talked at the pard whats over to the rewinde shoppe and he said I most likely did'nt cover the poles goode enough AND that i must have scraped the insulate off the wires badd enough that it's grounding out.
you seem to have a complete grasp of the matter at hand so thanks for the VALUABLE INPUT and thanks for HELPING ME get to the rrrroot of the problemo senor'. mucho thanko.
you have a GOODE idea about the laig thang..
 I slapped them wires all around yankin' 'em and crankin' em. A few times I had to drag 'em past the other  wired leg and SQUEEZED 'em past.  on the initial few windings I may have scraped the core too much and grounded out any number of times, EIGHTEEN?   mebbe no,mebbe so.. ahahahah!
so the windr cat is a'gonna look at my work and tel me a few thangs after which I'm a'gonne strip that bitch  like they ain't no tomorrow and wrap each pole in this special paper he is gonna give me prior to winding. then I'm a'gonne step up a gauge to eighteen and prolly do the same number of windes only being fiddy times mo careful, then tape it all up and let him maybe DIP IT for me.. .
then well you all know the res' of the story after that...   I just hope the big bad wolf don't eat granny this time! ahahaha!
where should I try to find those ALUMINIUM BOLTS?
and maybe purchase a proper tool to hammer tighten those bolts. I'm useing a thick bit and two pound hammer right now.. maybe thats all I need.???
okay I'm havink' fon agin!

MY uncle dom said for me to say: "thanks from him for being a stand up guy concerning the stator difficulties".
I thanked you once and here I'm thankin you twice for your expert surmise of the situation concernin said Fraunkie stator.. thanks everyone!  give yourselves a high five from me!
 boo yeah!
Now lets donce!
EVERYBODY DONCE NOW!

Me :)
me with a bug in my eye ;)
ray charles 8)
 me doing slow mo' paddle ball ::)
 me about to take a bite of that GHETTI-QUE :D
why my girlfriends REALLY like me and buy me stuff :P

Cost of wore,spray insulate and odds and ends: twenty five duckies
time spent: seven hours total.
result :REDO!
cuss factor: elebenty-seb'm
actual fun : now that it's all said and done I can't wait to try again! though to be honest if it don't work then I'll be veddy sod.. oh so sod...OY!
The end...

In the words of my Daughter....

"Group Hug"

I would check your local hardware store for some hexhead bolts (if they fit clearance wise) and ditch the phillips head bolts.  Ya gotta make sure they clear though, otherwise you could damage the rotor and/or have an oil leak as the cover won't fit tight, or worse the stator will not fit straight inside the rotor and you will have a similair grounding situation.

~Chris

I read up on it some more and it seems that the ALUMINIUM PHILLIPPS HEAD BOLTS that holds the stator to the cover are designed to keep from stripping out the bolt holes
Cranking down with a hex head would strip it oot.
the soft heads teach you to snug it but not overtighten.
using the correct size driver will insure a proper go of it.
i'll jus' replace em as I go.
no riding this week, looks like. just a bunch of  unwinding and winding.. ahahaha!
P.S where do the blue and black wires go again> is blue to the relay and the black is a ground?
i should have made  more notes.

  This time play some stator winding music

actually keeping track of the windes is maddening to say the least. Maybe some MOZART? mozart is cool.
had no music last time.. maybe thats why it tuhned out so vewy vewy wong.. weally.. some chinese guys came by and asked iffen they could make soup out of a few of those pole windings I made. so I'll twy weally muy' mucho  to neaten it all up this go.
fewer windings or smaller wire. I have no craftsman abilities you know those cats that make it seem easy as pie? not me yet;
 I got a goode feeling about this next effort.  the guy said he has this TITANIC wire that's stronger than an iceberg. can't be scratched..
special paper this time to wrap the poles.
different technique
while I'm waiting on the worde from rewinder shop cat I'll change out all the female connectors and polish all the male ones. grease em connect em and seal em in shrink tubing.
I still got that ground to change out and research some stuff. it's a neato hobby.
Oh here is some MORE tunes runes and croons for your mechanicin' times: MUSIC PAGE (http://www.soundclick.com/bands/2/arellspencermusic.htm)

STATOR REWIND PART DEUX:
okay I got the rewind stripped. OY after which I realised I had the  OHM METER on the wrong setting..
ahahaha!
Okay I wire brushed the core cleaned it off  taped it up WHEW (all the ends had a small peice)and resprayed with the insul spray. Five coats this time.
The rewind wire guy besides giving me EIGHTEEN Ga. wire as I asked for also gave me this blue paper. really tough and thin.
a LONG STRIP AND HE SAID i'M SUPPOSED TO PUT IT ON THE POLES? WHAT IN THE HAIL?
okay he made it the right width for me. what i did was to make a quarter inch strip and folded it  and wrapped the pole with it. my idea of which way to fold it and whatnot allowed it to pull closed as I tightened the wire. it was tricky getting the correct width for the poles and just a fraction sticking over.
So I wrapped the first six poles and wound wire  twenty five timesaround.(any more and it would have been a mess.)
I did all six poles and cut the wire then bared and scraped the ends and checked it for resistence.( .5) in specs.. AHAHAHA
Repeated process for legs two and three . ALL tests NOMINAL
I was very very careful to keep from nicking the wire as I wound. I made a soft mount and a soft ring to keep the three fifty foot lengths from tangling. On the first leg I had seven inches of wire to spare. He must have miscounted; on the other two, there was lots left over.
then I did the CORE GROUND test: NO CONTINUITY tested GOODE! ahahahahaha!
BOO YEAH! those extra coats and paper did the trick.
So far so good.
now I'm spraying it trying to make it look like the electrex one.
welding the copper wires seemed tough so I opted to crimp it with a piece of solder in the crimp before but this time I'm going to get some more gas for my torch and melt them three IN copper wires. the others will be solder'd as usual.
 I got to install that inline voltmeter and I'll be set.
of course I'll get the INEXPENSIVE ONE..
back to spraying and finding NEW ALUMINIUM PHILLIPPS HEAD BOLTS.

sounds like you have it on the run this time.  practice and feedback make perfect!

the next to the last coats are drying.
What I do is spray the heck out of it and let it drip then roll it and turn it upside down to spread the enamel epoxy. it dries to a shiney glaze. back and forth and over and over. I wish I could just dip it.
the last steps are removing all the eighteen little pieces of tape on the ends and shining them metal pieces up then install .
it ain't gonna last a long time cause i'm so klutzy and all but when It goes maybe I'll have another to slam in it.

    
   Un*ucking beleaveable,rewinding your own stator?!?!?
Get a clue,what bunch of useless dribble,I can only wonder  what your bike looks like let alone your girlfriend!(then again if you have enough time to re-wind stator I doubt you have one!)If you can't scare up$145 for a stator what's that bike worth about $5 !? Un*ucking beleiveable that's I can say.
                               Frenchthewrench

get some popcorn & pull up a comfy chair guys, this is going to be better than ESPN...

hey lucky what type of volt meter do you have on your bike?
I've been looking them upand the homemade ones look cool only I just need on with three lights or a digital one.
fairly easy to hook up and all.
I wanna watch the rewind job close.

It's an inexpensive Autometer voltmeter. I'm keeping an eye out for a deal on a glyceryn filled one because the vibration of the bike has made it read low.  Glyceryn filled guages are generally expensive, you might want to go for the $5 Radio Shack LED one that has been mentioned elsewhere here.

BTW, if you get a digital one you won't be able to read it at night...

QuoteBTW, if you get a digital one you won't be able to read it at night...

One shouldn't have to be able to read it at night. If the system voltage gets low, things will eventually get dark!  :o

:)

Greg

There are some voltmeters, analog type on ebay...that's where I picked mine up...haven't had time yet to install it....hey Lucky..where did you tap in for yours.. I was thinking right after the ignition switch....

Oh, the analog one I got was for a boat...should help with the weather, instead of a regular car interior gage...

I have never bought anyting offen ebay.
it seems cool to do so.
I'll look into that marine voltmeter. it prolly is more money than a regular one.
I have an E-mail out to a designer/whiz to whip me up one of those homemade ones.
they seem really neat.

I'm trying to get the small connectors to come out of the plastic case but they don' wanna`!
OY!
I got a paperclip, a sharp thin scissor which worked for the bigger ones and a very tiny flattie driver.
them dang connectors won't come out!
they all green up in there.
the ones I got to come out are all clean and ready I got about three more connectors that won't cooperate(wires from plastic case)the connectors came apart just the wires are stuck for now.
they have resisted all efforts..

BerNARD LaJolly:
  You have GOT to be kidding trying to raise the ire of someone as straightforward as Scoot.
As far as someone having the appearance of their female counterpart judged by the amount of time available to tinker (re: Scooter's rewind), you must be the biggest loser the motorsickle world has known, along with a wart-nosed troll for a companion. Having the time to retrofit FZ750 carbs to YOUR Vision ranked you MUCH higher on that imperfect scale you created to judge losers.

'Naut

QuoteBerNARD LaJolly:
 ?You have GOT to be kidding trying to raise the ire of someone

'Naut

them connectors(wires) are STOCK MON'! they no come from 'de boxes. why is dis so please?
P.S.
HEY NAUT FLAME OFF DUDE! jeesh!
just delete all your knocker stuff and I'll get the BOSS to fix the rest of it so it is a STATOR REWIND POST AGAIN. this ain't a knocker heaven for a bunch of flame artists. you guys really burn me up.
there... my "ire" has been raised...
not really! ahahahahA!
you don't have enough POWER to raise my ire. heee!HAWWW!
I have ALL the POWER OVER ME. ahahahah! today ME tomorrow the WORLD! ahahahaha!

and now back to our regularly shedyooled stator rewind post:

SO any hints short of rippin and a'tearing to get them danged connectors to come over to the light uh...
. I thank last time I used some sort of VULCAN MINDE MELD and I must have forgotten how cause them dang thangs jus' canna come loose captan! could they be some sort of klingon torture devices? those connectors?
DAMMIT JIM! I'm a rocket bike boy. (clickety whirr; dang) not a gypsy.. although DJANGO REINHARDT is quite goode..

QuoteI thank last time I used some sort of VULCAN MINDE MELD and I must have forgotten how cause them dang thangs jus' canna come loose captan! could they be some sort of klingon torture devices? those connectors?
DAMMIT JIM! I'm a rocket bike boy. (clickety whirr; dang) not a gypsy.. although DJANGO REINHARDT is quite goode..

The really sad part is that I get all of that, the really really sad part of it is I'm soure lots of you guys do too...

GA-Wolfe, If I remember right, I think I did tap it in to the ignition Switch..  It reads low, 13.6 when it's really putting out 14.4ish.  I suspect it could be due to the bikes vibration beating it up, but I haven't checked voltage drop accross the switch.  If I sell this bike & buy the 83 I want, I'll just swap dashes...

--Lucky

QuoteThe really sad part is that I get all of that, the really really sad part of it is I'm soure lots of you guys do too...

I don't get it.  

But then I'm not a bricklayer :-)

Brian

I connected my Radio Shack LED monitor to the headlight circuit, works well there.

it's a Star Trek thing...

My VDO Marine Voltmeter ($5 from EBAy) is mounted in the dash panel of the Fairing (left side) and has wires running down the frame to the FUSED side of the fuse box "brown" wire connector and ground near the fuse box.  Readings seem to be right at what a voltmeter directly connected to the battery reads during all operating modes.

QuoteIt's an inexpensive Autometer voltmeter. I'm keeping an eye out for a deal on a glyceryn filled one because the vibration of the bike has made it read low. ?Glyceryn filled guages are generally expensive, you might want to go for the $5 Radio Shack LED one that has been mentioned elsewhere here.

I have both an automotive voltmeter and one of these RadioShack LED Meters.  What I did was also buy from RadioShack the same connector that is on my battery charger/trickle charger and attached them to the LED RadioShack Meter.  Now I run the hard wired Volt Meter and the detachable LED Meter on the charger leads already attached to the bike.  I don't have the Voltmeter backlight hooked up, so the LEDs work great at night.

Chris

what powers the radio shack device?
how did you mount it?
maybe a digi pic?

Quotewhat powers the radio shack device?

It's powered by the circuit that it monitors. Out of the package, it has an alligator clip on the positive lead, and a probe on the negative lead (or vice-versa). I clipped the alligator lead and probe off, stripped an appropriate amount of insulation off the ends, and then soldered the leads to a couple of wires in the bundle behind the headlight. If I remember correctly, I hooked up the red lead from the Radio Shack device to the brown wire coming off the ignition switch connector (on the wiring harness side of the connector, not the ignition switch side of the connector), and the black wire from the device to the black wire coming out of the kill/start switch connector. (Note: my memory may not be 100% correct on where I hooked up the positive lead, and I'm not willing to tear everything apart just to verify the connections. You should study the wiring diagram and decide for yourself which lead to use.) I wrapped the wires from the device with black electrical tape, just to keep things neat. In hindsight, I probably should have used black heat-shrink before getting everything soldered together.

Quotehow did you mount it?

I used a little silicone adhesive to "glue" it to the top triple clamp, just below the indicator light panel. Now, with 20/20 hindsight, I think that I probably should have used a little bit of "hook&loop" fabric, to allow easier removal if I ever have to disassemble the steering assembly. (I don't expect I'll have to, since I've already replaced the steering head bearings, but ya never know...)

Quotemaybe a digi pic?

Ask and ye shall receive...

(http://homepage.mac.com/gbranche/EBay_Pics/P5153116.JPG)

Greg

 IT CRUNK and crunk and crunk and crunk and crunk and crunk a few more times and DANG! change the plogs.  OH DUH!
That one plug I did first, you know which one; the JAPANESE TORTURE PLUG..  GAHHHH! then my other plogs were a different size and ahhhh! DANG back to the places and FOUND one only now my three eights drive is gone EVERY THING BUT a three eights .. DANG! went a'borrowin'. FOUND one got em changed and VROOM! HOLY COW I GOT MY ROCKET BIKE BACk.. LOL!
but sadly I have charging issues /15.65 at fifteen hunner'd. Maybe my RR maybe wireing I dunno.
MY RR is NOT correct. It has three white/one each,black,brown and red and green SO I was told to DISREGARD the green one.
its over charging around 15.75  about 5000rpms.
I wish I had about three of you wizards here about now.
We'd put a whuppin' ON IT!
I just revved it to 6K and it went to 16.PLUS
five K 15.75
IDLE 12 or 1300 rpms: 15.40

test says My RR ain't REGULATIN//
HUH!
it's just a R
CAIN'T ?go ridin like that!
DANG!
there is NO where I can find a RR tomorrow.. ahahahaha!
I'm going scavenging..
I know a cat has an old six hunner'd in his back yard.. Hmmmm?
I got the RR from a six hunner'd RADIAN.. RR32 not 39..
could this be my prob?
the RADIAN HAS NO STATOR. so it don't need a regulator? anybody?

You have already fiqured it out, bad regulator. Good job on the stator though.

Actually with the thinner wire it was easier than the first time but I screwed up by putting the wires in the wrong place.
I was HIGH from all the spraying the epox insul spray on the core. I used a fan but still got lit up. then I accidently put every thing bassacwards.. I was so stoopid from the spray that I counted wrong and reversed the in's and outs. I kept forgetting which winde I was on .. I had to unwind many to make sure then REWIND OY!
I was stoned goode fashion. So I had to quit for a few hours.
I got a few loose and on one I had to space it with some insul paper. then SPRAY,spray,spray!
then I got it too thick and the stator would'nt fit into the flywheel. it kept hanging up and I was going why> what> then i saw how close the tolerances are and so I had to grind and sand and sand some more to make all the ends exactly even.  that was hail. then I got it all together and forgot to put oil in it and got all ready to crank it and said OH NO!
I almost crunk it . but did'nt.. I had to rest after that.
I used gasket maker sealant , very thin bead and NO leaks.
if the stator lasts a month i'll be hoppy.. no telling if it'll hold up. I MADE IT THE BEST i COULD although a true craftsman would have done better I'm sure. I cussed and stomped my way through it mostly. ahahahaha!
I'll have to replace all the soft head  stator screwbolts the next time I see 'em.. .
I'll rewind a few more 'a'fore it's all said and done..
about twenty bucks to rewind one. that and a LOT of elbow grease.
actually kind of rewarding.
it was a great feeling when It VROOMED into life,
oh yeah it's charging that batt NOW ahahahahA!

now if I could get into the WINDE!

Hey Scootertramp -

Congrats on getting it charging!!  :) Now if it was just not trying to boil your battery.  You showed tons of fortitude going through that job twice.  Now that I have an old, fried one I may try my hand at rewinding it myself.  Sure have some good info for doing it thanks to your posts, questions and all the answers!  Thanks for keeping us all informed of what you were up to and how things were going most of the way through.  After looking at the one from Rick's, I think I might be able to do it at least as well as they do.

H2o

Quotehow did you mount it?

It comes stock with a magnet on the back.  Since I wired it so that it can be detached, when I use it, I simply stick it to the tank with the magnet.

Chris

I've ?ridden hundred and fiddy miles (give or take ) on the REWIND..
I've tested before and after each ride and get NOMINAL NUMBERS so far.
A little higher or lower depending on batt drain.. Fan, starting and restarting at numerous stops leaving it on but not started, Ect... the usee RR I took offen a wrecked and junked virago is doin it's job although a back up is the order of the day.. .  did get the R.S. DEVICE but I'm still shy about cutting it in..
I know I need switched hot and a ground.. there are a LOT of wires in there.. I'm skedded veddy skedded. to rip and tear in there.
I do wish to monitor the stator and charging system closely..
I'm keeping a log so 'll know when things begin to go south.
While riding( IN TOWN,stopping at lights and all)I have noticed the HEAT NEEDLE Creeps ?beyond the normal 12:0clock position over towards (half the distance)but not into the red area.. These times are when I begin shaping plans for the waterpump over haul.
Although at fifty five ::) it goes to the middle of the green if not a little less..
the horn is very much louder these days..
Vroom 8)

Re: Water pump.  When you see liquid coming out out the water pump weep hole, worry about it.  Until then don't.

I don't understand why so many Vnaries, with so many other candidates to focus worry on, insist on protestations of doom regarding what is absolutely the most trouble free system on the bike.

Advice: (1) Change the engine coolent every two years using non silicone containing coolent.  (2) When the temp needle Touches (not gets close, but actually Touches) the red zone, become concerned.  (3) Until item #2 happens, forget about the cooling system.  Give yourself a break, and use your new found worry time to worry about something else more deserving of your worrying energy.

Cheers.