Riders Of Vision

New to this board.....and thought I'd throw a few things out there...

Found this one in someone's backyard, sitting for almost 3 years.

Had to pretty much go through the whole bike, checking and fixing as I went along.
After 3 weeks it was ready for a test startup.
30 minutes of cranking, and recharging the battery, it finally started.
I let it idle for about an hour.
Tried to take it for a run, and it has bad surging, hesitation, stalling.....
Got back home, let it cool off, and tried again.
Starts, but still hunts at idle, and revs when trying to accel slowly.

Anyway, I did take the carbs apart. They were pretty nasty.
No soak, just spray cleaner and airgun used.

I'm guessing this was not enough, so I've ordered some Berryman's and another set of carbs.
I'll do a thorough job on these this time.

Any other suggestions are welcome.....

I had the bike painted, and the rest actually cleaned up quite well.
Except for a few spots on the engine that looks like tarnish.
Most comes off with some Scrubbing Bubbles and a small brass brush.

I'll post a picture when all cleaned up in a few days....

My old bike was a Honda 200 Twinstar, which developed shifting problems.
This is definitely a major step up for me!

Thanks for listening.....

Welcome ,
im new too! Going through her as we speak!!!Good luck to ya!!!

ahoy, welcome aboard!

sounds like you have a pretty good start... keep at it and you'll be rewarded.

Just thought I would add that putting a multimeter across the battery while running shows about 12.86 volts, fluctuating +- .3

Is this OK, or is the stator bad?

Found no corroded or melted connections, but replaced all fuses with blade types.

Seems to crank slow....

Check the voltage at 2500 rpm should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts/ You will need a Haynes manual or  a factory book Try eBay.
Vision carbs need to surgically clean . Dip them, but not longer than 30 min . The butterfly shaft seals can be damaged if left in the soup too long.

Thanks Rick,

I did buy a Haynes manual...which has proved to be very helpful in checking everything on the bike.

Should I remove the butterfly seals before dipping? I read a few places to soak for about 2 hours.

Forgot to mention I was also getting a slight drip from the drain hose. After checking, it's coming from both carbs.
I capped off the drain hose at the front carb for now.

Don't try to remove the shaft seals! You would have to remove the throttle plate to do that and the screws are staked to the shaft. You would have a hard time getting them back as they were and need to be.

OK....then I'll take Rick's advice and soak for 30 minutes. No problem.

DON'T block either drain hose.  Leakage out of the float bowl drains indicate gummed up or worn out float needle valves.  If you block the leaked fuels' exit, the valves will still leak, but instead of the fuel leaving the bike it will migrate into the crankcase and dulute your engine oil.  V needle valves can be very undependable.  I highly recommend that you install an inline fuel filter and an inline fuel cut off valve (available from most small engine/lawn equipment maintenance shops).  When the bike is not running turn off the in line valve.  Most needle valve leaks are not a problem when the bike is running.  Your stator output is low, probably indicating a bad stator.

Another cause for leaking drains can be a corroded drain screw/seat. Pull your drain screws and polish them.

http://ridersofvision.net/forum/index.php?topic=9884.msg89492#msg89492 (http://ridersofvision.net/forum/index.php?topic=9884.msg89492#msg89492)

Your surging and hunting for idle is most likely a leaking YICS box - the triangular box on the right side of the carbs.  The easy fix is to cap off the ports and try running it again.  Many choose to leave the ports capped and run without it but I can tell a big difference whne I have my YICS functioning properly.

Also to echo the others, your carbs need to be surgically clean.  That means disassembling soaking, dipping, cleaning...the works.

you say it sat outside for only 3 years?  Wow....thats good.  Most of ours sat longer.  ;-)

Welcom to ROV!

David

but I can tell a big difference whne I have my YICS functioning properly.

I was wondering about that.. I capped mine, at least temporarily until I figure out everything else!! lol...

My YICS seems to be fine. I took it off and tested each chamber with a hose and blew into it. No leaks apparent. But.....I pinched off the rear cyl hose while running, and the idle dropped, but pinching off the front cyl hose did nothing....no change.

Do that under water, if you didn't  It's really the only way to tell if there are slow leaks or not.

put mine back on for giggles.. rpm was way higher for some reason.. mellowed it out,, seems fine...I think it might be smoother.. Of course, this is in my garage, not the real world yet.

They idle faster with the YIKS box in the system. That.s the only difference i can tell. My runs the same with or with out it.

So....this is where I'm at:

1. Waiting for carbs to come and I'll rebuild them after soaking. Took off the intakes....minor weather cracks, so sealed them up with 3 coats of liquid electrical tape.

2. Checked YICS box again under water. Tiny leak internally....so I took some of my Caswell tank epoxy and poured in each chamber to sit overnight. Checked this morning, and seems to be OK now. Only pain was getting the epoxy in there. I took an old baster and blew it in.

3. Tim Parrot wrote back to me about his Vision stators from ebay:

"We have only had 3 warranty stator in the past 3 years. the lastest one failed at 18 months. yes it was over the year warranty. However we covered it anyway . We have so few stators returned with a problem. we often cover them after the warranty time period has expired. If there are no signs of abuse or it was installed wrong.ie mashed lead wire in cover .To my knowledge no other stator will sub in for the stator used in a 82-83 xz550 vision.The cx 500 stator will not work in the vision. It is at least twice as wide as the stock vision stator. We dip out stators as a final coating stage in a 3m clear resin finsh. yes i would do a ac output test at around2500- 3500 rpm. To do so unplug stator. set meter to ac volts and test in combs between stator output wires. They should all be the same(1-2,2-3,3-1.. If there not it is a sign the stator is bad or starting to go bad. I would look for 45 to 65 volt ac." thanks tim

4. Took rear brake arm off to replace the bolts. One was in backwards....which makes me think they were replaced at one time.....but going to put new ones anyway. They are shoulder bolts, but I think regular ones will work OK.

5. Unplugged the carb drain hose and hooked it back up normally....seems to have stopped leaking.....but going to do the carb rebuild anyway.

6. Not sure what oil was being used by previous owner, so I got some 20w-50 Castrol and a new filter. OEM says 20W-40, but can't find it. Is there a better oil to use? Leary about going synthetic without knowing what was being used before.

That's about it........waiting for parts to come.....

Also noticed the exhaust collector box was a little rusting but no leaks. Is this a concern? Maybe I should coat it with some rust preventer while I have the side peg mount removed.....

Perhaps Lucky's permanent post on brake are bolts is not emphatic enough! Do not replace the brake arm bolts with standard bolts! Get correct shoulder bolts and do it right.

You need to get the correct shoulder bolts, or as I do, use an 8mm case  dowel to create the shoulder.
I prefer the dowel method as Yamahas OEM hardware for this application, is somewhat crappy. Use bolts that are at least grade 8.8 to grade 12.5. Regular bolts with no shoulder will allow too much movement and will probably result in catastrophic failure , at some point .

Quote from: musicweb on April 08, 2009, 08:19:47 AM

........To my knowledge no other stator will sub in for the stator used in a 82-83 xz550 vision.......

sorry Timmy, there are.... I'm running a Hondo Shadow stator presently

He obviously hasn't seen Eletrex's application chart . The G7 stator fits quite a few bikes . Tiger posted a list a few days ago

Quote from: Rick G on April 08, 2009, 09:40:24 PM
Tiger posted a list a few days ago

Here is a link to it  http://ridersofvision.net/forum/index.php?topic=10148.0  Thanks Ricky 8)

Just for the record, I installed a VIRAGO stator (used) in "The Mistress" three years ago!!! and she's still running great 8) (touch wood!!)

               

Rick...you didn't have to do any modifications to the wiring?
Not sure if I need one yet, but if I do, I would like to get one that has a good track record.

No modifications necessary. The Eletrosport (eletrex) one I bought came with out the multi plug and as I was going to hard wire it in , it was no problem. I have a used Viagra stator in reserve, in case I need it and it will bolt right in.

OOOPS....
I think that stator question was supposed to be directed at Tiger....

I've seen a few Virago stators on ebay, but I guess we are looking for '86 and up.

I was looking at the homemade manometer on Lucky's site. I don't see any valves like he shows in another homemade model with the vacuum gauge. And how does one know where to put the tape on the stick as a gauge point? Maybe the vacuum gauge is a better setup?....

Speaking of this stator problem....maybe someone who has had the unfortunate experience of swapping one out on the road should post a list of the necessary parts and tools to carry on a long trip. Just a thought.....

I made/use a homemade manometer.. This is the deal,, I used heavy oil,, final rive oil, and I used restrictors in the lines,  funny, I just videoed it on youtube for a friend. check it out..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLr96CaLt-4&feature=channel_page
I ramble but you can get the general Idea.

where the liquid, or how much you put in,, is not important.. the goal is that its at the same place running.. not pulling either way.. its measuring how much vacuum pull is happening on each jug, so you can make them even..

Thanks Funk.....

I'll check it out when I get home later.....

Also found my starter was oily.....surprised it was even turning!

Looking at the kits on ebay for $34.....anyone had experience with them?

I had some issues with my starter last year, and got a lot of advises regarding kits. I ended up rebuilding it without kit, but if it is oily, I guess that you need one.

Here is a lot of help to get. I would copied the url into the post, and ask for experiences with the kit that you link to - for there are more than one sort of kit out there...

yeah, easy stuff.. got a circlip pliers? You can do it, look at the parts diagram and read the posts on it, but, its easy stuff..clean your commutator with steel wool or something, and the spaces in between in the commutator..  nice shiny brass!! Clean all the remnants of your cleaning... Get the seal with the springs is what I read,, Ive only cleaned mine, I have the new seal on the way, so thats next,,,You'll probably be done before I know..

Use a fine sand paper to clean the surface of the commutator ( it should really be turned in a lathe, but you can get away without doing that, if its not deeply grooved) Take an old hacksaw blade , grind a hook on the backside , the side with no teeth. Pull the hook along the grooves in the commutator until the grooves are 8 to 10 thousandths below the surface of the commutator. Finish off with the wet or dry sandpaper.Clean the whole thing with alcohol.

ah,,, even better,, I have a seal coming,, Ill do THAT when I open her back up.. Man, nice to know this stuff,, you rock, Brother!! Thank you for letting me learn vicariously through your thread, musicweb!!

Quote from: musicweb on April 09, 2009, 08:07:02 AM
OOOPS....
I think that stator question was supposed to be directed at Tiger....

8) Nope, no mod's needed...straight forward wire in... 8)

               

Tiger,

This is the one I'm looking at on ebay....
Seems like a good price for a new one, free ship, 1 year warranty.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-XV535-Virago-1987-1990-stator_W0QQitemZ290308273431QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item290308273431&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1205|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-XV535-Virago-1987-1990-stator_W0QQitemZ290308273431QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item290308273431&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318)

What do you think?

 :) musicweb...I think I  would go for it... 8) but thats just me!!  ;D :D :D :D :D :D... ;)

             

that's an RM Stator. you'd think they were made in Canada because that's were the "site" is... but I don't think so.

CDNLouie got one and said it looked very similar to the electrolux... probably made in china

I would either go for a Tim Parrot (we put one in my brother's Vision and it looked pretty good) or
go with a lightly used OEM one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-NOS-STATOR-ASSEMBLY-XV750-XV920-XV-750-XV-920_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem220224538862QQitemZ220224538862QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

haha... just kidding on that one.....

something like this yummy one: 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-xv-750-xv750-virage-stator-altenator_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem280311414635QQitemZ280311414635QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

hell, if I didn't need another spare, that one would be gone already

oh yeah, that's right.... there IS green  insulation on the OEM Virago stators...

But that 2nd one doe not fall into the correct years for replacement as in the stator list.

true, it's not on the list.... it will physically fit, but there is a chance that the overall outer diameter is a couple of millimeters less.

that would be what I called the "low voltage" stator that I got 9k miles out of... it charges a wee low at idle, but I don't ride at idle... once past 1500 rpm or so, she'll give ya what you need.

your choice... $150 or  $35

if I can get 9k miles out of a $35 stator, I should be able to go 40k-50k miles for the cost of the other one.
it's a crap shoot...
'ya feeling lucky punk?  ;D

150.00??? I saw 580.40. Their trying to fund the whole retirement on one sale! :P :o :o :o :o

Happy Easter everyone!

Got the set of used carbs yesterday.....and they look good.
Took the tops off and very minor signs of dirt inside, no gumming.

Seller said the bike ran a little rough, and there was some dirt in a few passages.

Front pilot adj was out 6 turns, which is the one with the most dirt.
Rear pilot was only 1-1/2 turns out.

Took them all apart except for the drain fittings and butterflies, to get ready for a 30 minute soak when my Berrymans arrives tommorrow.

Kept all parts from each carb separated....noticed different jets in each one.

I'll do some shots of carbclean in all passages before soaking.

Anything else I should be looking for?

Be sure to remove the accelerator nozzle. There's a plunger and check ball under it . Usually it takes a pair of vise grips to get them out. Be certain the nozzles are clean , check with carb spray . Also the direction of the spray, from the nozzles,  is critical.

One of them was a little stubborn, but got them both out, Rick...

Just finished checking all passages with carbclean. All of them seem OK.

I did read somewhere....I think Lucky's site....about aiming the accell nozzles and what to watch for.

Going to do some engine polishing for a while now.....

So the accelerator nozzles are sort of bendable right? Just make sure they're seated right, put the carb together and fill up the bowls with test fluid of some kind. Operate the linkage and make sure that the accelerator nozzles start spraying evenly (not suddenly all at once, that means either the linkage is jacked up or the diaphragm is crispy). It should spray a clean straight even cone, not a stream, and it should spray right down between the throttle shaft and the side of the venturi. It shouldnt touch either but go right between evenly when you hammer it all the way open. If you have to bend the tube at all do it gently and you should be able to nudge it around real careful with your fingers.

Quote from: musicweb on April 12, 2009, 10:51:01 AM


I'll do some shots of carbclean in all passages before soaking.

Anything else I should be looking for?

make sure all the jets are out..... air pilots, mains, fuel pilots

also, when you take the pilot screws out, make sure you dig those tiny little o-rings out with a paperclip or such

The only o-ring I can find is the one on the drain screw.

The only adjustable screw I see is the idle adj. screws on both carbs, near the butterflies.....no o-ring in there, just a spring.
Checked my old carbs...no o-rings there either.

Checked Lucky's site and saw something about frozen adjuster screws, but my '82 carbs do not have those.

Unless there are other plugs I need to remove.....but I hesitated on that.

the pilot screws should have an o-ring, washer, spring, screw.....

they (#3 in this diagram), are located here :
(http://www.xz550.com/bowl_files/rbowldrain.jpeg)

hmmm #3 doesn't show , better go here and see for youself: http://www.xz550.com/bowl.html


don't forget to pulll the emulsion tubes out also...

here's some good tips from Lucky:

http://www.xz550.com/carbclean.html

Found the o-ring and washers! It looked like nothing else was in there.....

Stuck down inside....but I used my small pick and gently pulled them out intact.

Yes, I did pull the emulsion tubes. They came out easily.

Thanks for the help!

Also read in the Haynes book to remove the venturis before soaking, and inspect the venturi seals.

Getting back to my oily starter.... I received the rebuild kit this morning.

It worked fine, all components were included, even the new type oil seal.

Here's the guy I bought it from if anyone needs a kit, or for future reference:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-XZ550R-Vision-Starter-repair-Rebuild-kit-38_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6755QQihZ012QQitemZ220393708898 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-XZ550R-Vision-Starter-repair-Rebuild-kit-38_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6755QQihZ012QQitemZ220393708898)

I made an offer of $29.95 and he accepted it.

The carb rebuild went good over the course of a few days.
After letting it sit on Prime for a minute, half choke, and it fired right up.

Had to play with the idle speed, and then the pilot adjustments, then it ran OK.

I made one of the homemade synch tools, which also worked well.
A minor adjust of the synch rod, and that was OK.

Took it for a short road trip of about 20 miles.....she ran really good!
But the charging system needs work.

Pulled the stator today...it was fried all around.

Even found a small lock washer, maybe a 4 or 5 mm, lying in the bottom of the side cover.
No idea where it goes....someone has been in there before?

The starter clutch bolts are still tight, and it looks like they have been peened over twice on each one.
Should I still replace them while I'm in there....or leave alone?

Have to pick up a new cover gasket I ordered from the dealer on Monday.

Got the new stator from RMstator. Will let everyone know how it works.

Regarding starter clutch bolts:  What do mean "and it looks like they have been peened over twice on each one."  Peening renders the bolt end looking like a flatened mushroom.  One can't tell how many times it "has been peened over"  FYI: The OEM starter bolts are "staked", not peened.  The appearance is that a small cross has been stamped on to the end of the bolt.

How many miles on the bike?  Staked bolt ends and less than 23k miles are highly indicative of OEM installation.  Meaning that starter clutch reattachement is probably in your future.

Hi QBS,

10,000 miles and has been sitting outside for over 2 years.

It looks like someone took a center punch and hit the bolts near the outside, forming like a crater pushing towards the flywheel.

I figure I may as well do them while I'm in there. Will pick up the bolts today.

Got the stator mounted and all surfaces bright and shiny for the new gasket.

Will also get some Yamabond while at the dealer for the grommets.

Was thinking....if vibration is the problem with these stators, why didn't the engineers figure out some kind of isolation mounting?

With 10k miles showing, sounds like OEM starter clutch installation for sure.

Music , the bike was only made 2 years for the North America, so Yamaha probably had no idea there was a problem. The same G7 stator is used in many bikes . There is no proof that vibration is the problem. I'm not saying it isn't the problem , but there just isn't enough proof , that it is. There have been several theories as to why the stator fails (as it does in lots of bikes) and there may be more than one cause, (as I suspect) This type of charging system runs wide open and live in a crappy environment, so periodic failure may be the standard.

The bolts for the starter clutch were loose after all.
For anyone thinking about leaving them alone as I was, it's hard to tell unless you take the flywheel off.

Using a 3-point puller, it took 4 good whacks with my mallet and it popped off.
Not on the floor....it just hung there.
Rollers and springs, etc....all looked good.
No cracks in plate.

I cut three new bolts a few threads longer, cut a crisscross in them, red loctite, and spread them with a punch.
Worked well....

Red loctite on the flywheel bolt, torqued to 58 ft lbs as the manual says.

Yamabond on the grommets, and where all wires go through them, and let that set for an hour.

New gasket on the bright and shiny cover, and should be OK after it sits tonight.

Still need to reconnect the RR, etc....but in the morning.....

Thanks to all that have contributed to this thread.....
but I'm sure it's not over yet.

Will post some pics when I get her running again.....
Still stuck on a name...

You may regret the red loctite on the flywheel bolt. They aren't prone to coming loose and it will be a real bear to get out again should you have to.

In the flywheel bolt application , blue locktite would be more than enough!

Quote from: musicweb on April 20, 2009, 11:21:46 PM

Will post some pics when I get her running again.....
Still stuck on a name...

I used to be good at naming Visions..... but I ran out of 'em just before Tiger's "Lucky Seven"

All up and running again.... 8)

New stator is putting out 13.5 at idle....up to 14.3 at around 2500-3000.
Sometimes goes to 14.5....

Took her to the gas station yesterday to fill up.
Started right back up when done.

Will be taking her for a road trip later today for about 100 miles....(who knows, maybe longer)

Still a little cleaning and polishing to do, but otherwise, she's looking good.

(http://spectrum-enterprise.com/vision/HPIM0586.jpg)

(http://spectrum-enterprise.com/vision/HPIM0587.jpg)

(http://spectrum-enterprise.com/vision/HPIM0588.jpg)

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet... looking good indeed!!!

I really like the red Visions , but its hard to find one that's not faded out.  Yours is very nice!! :D :D :D :D :D

Odd, my charging voltage goes up at idle.  (runs about 14.5-15 at idle, and 14 above that.)  I have an analog gauge, so I'm guessing a little.

I like the back-rest and rack. 

Congrats, looks nice.

Brian

A friend at work repainted the original red.....

It's now Chrysler Inferno Red.

Cost me a large pizza... ;)

Tried to do the fork oil today, but can't get the caps loosened.
They are a little rusty, so I have them soaking with penetrating oil.

After the gas trip yesterday, I now see a wet shock on the left front.

Any tips on getting the caps out? Impact gun?
And a source for new fork seals?
Probably the dealer....no problem.

For all the great things I love about my '83, I really regret that the engine is so hidden.  The V engine is so unique and compact that it just begs to be on display.

a large pizza?!?!?!?! I want to go shopping with you cowboy!!!

Well if you're ever in CT...funk, stop off in Ashford.

Just got back from putting on about 80 miles.

Watching that left front shock while riding and there were
oil drips riding up it.

Right one was dry.

try the part number in google.. usually brings up a boat place.. theyre good too!! lol.. I order from them for my stuff and they usually beat the dealer pretty well. fast shipping, too.. I sound like I work for them but I assure you im merely a customer!!

Music, pick up a VW drain plug wrench ( its a large allen wrench)  I paid 5 dollars and change for mine in 1999, so it may be a bit more now. Its perfect for the job.

I did get a nut to fit in there Rick and used a 1/2" breaker bar, but still didn't budge.

Not sure about the threads in there, so I didn't force too hard.

I'll spray them for a few days and search for some new seals.

don't apply heat.... they have o-rings on them

try shocking them with a couple of taps from a hammer

sometimes tightening a bolt and then loosen works too....

your paint looks nice! time to pull the plastics and shoot some krylon on them

Anyone had experience with these K&L fork seals?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K&L-FORK-SEALS-XJ400-XJ550R-XZ550-KR250-35X48X8%2F9.5_W0QQitemZ300306905658QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090410?IMSfp=TL090410156005r37663 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K&L-FORK-SEALS-XJ400-XJ550R-XZ550-KR250-35X48X8%2F9.5_W0QQitemZ300306905658QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090410?IMSfp=TL090410156005r37663)

Says 83 xz550, but they are the same for 82.

You're right Rick....this is the wrench:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kd-VW-Transmission-Filler-Drain-Plug-Wrench-47-WH_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem360050933207QQitemZ360050933207QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ShippingPayment (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kd-VW-Transmission-Filler-Drain-Plug-Wrench-47-WH_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem360050933207QQitemZ360050933207QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ShippingPayment)

17mm KD Tools VW Transmission Filler & Drain Plug Wrench #47

I'll check with my jobber on Monday.

It rides fine except for the leak....but I read here and there about progressive fork springs?
Are they worth the investment  if I'm taking apart the forks?

I've had bad experences with K&L and most  after market fork seals , many are too thick (inner and outer dimensions are ok, but they are too "tall" and you can't get the clip back in. I cut a set down to 7mm in 2005 and they worked for a while , but I need to replace them asap.  I would use either seals from a bearing supply house or OEM. I'm told the OEM seals are teflon coated to reduce stiction, but there pricey.

I've had good luck with K&L seals. I tried leak proof seals from dennis kirk, never again. junk

My first bike was an 1980 Honda Twin Star 6 volt. still have her i mounted a pair of ammo boxes to her for storage space. she is a great little scoot

 ;)

Yep....the bike I just graduated from was a 1981 Twinstar 200, Kid.

Developed transmission problems, so I'll be parting it out soon.
Needed a lot of other work too....

Gonna miss the 100 MPG though.

Of course, on my trip to the ocean yesterday, the Vision got about 55 MPG.

Not bad.....

nice link to the 17mm hex.... I think I'll get one for my brother

I think I found a name for my bike....

Years ago I earned a nickname of Sid......

I ran a club on the internet that had a "vision", or mission statement we all followed.

So....I guess....

Sid's Vision would be appropriate for a name.

Any thoughts?...I don't really see any "laws" about naming with female names...... ::)

sid vicious , sids vision,, hmmmm

Who said that "Sid" was a girl name?

No, I did not word that right.....sorry.

I thought the norm for naming vehicles was to refer to them as females.

Sid is a male name.

Call it   "Sweet V"  (sort of non political and appropriate.)

Oh..... one thing I forgot to ask.

When I did my fork seals, was I sup[posed to tighten the cap nuts after lowering the bike to the ground, or while still jacked up?

I would think air pressure would be in the forks?

I run 10 psi  I seem to remember seeing the max as 17 psi.

But there is no way to add or remove air in my 82 forks, Rick.

That's why I was wondering about the procedure.
It seems to handle fine, actually better now that there is equal oil in both forks.

Waiting for my new tires to come next Tuesday, and a possible fork bearing replacement at the same time.

I have '83 sliders on '82 stanchions ,  but I drilled a hole in each fork cap and installed a brass valve salvaged from an old inner tube . I use a very small tyre pump to add air.  Some don't feel that there's any value to having air ,but I like the difference.

Curious as to everyone's experience with engine oils.

Any brands or viscosities better than others?

I'm using Valvoline 20-50 semi synthetic. Synthetic and semi synthetic oils work well in the Vision and as a bonus it shifts much better.I'm using 20-50 because of the hot summers here, in winter or in cooler areas the factory recommended 10-40 is a good choice.
Amsoil is good as are other full synthetics, but I can't afford 10.00/12.00 a quart oil. Many like Mobil 1 , but it was reformulated 2 or 3 years ago and is considered by some to be inferior to the previous product.

What ever oil you use , make sure that it is NOT energy conserving. These types of oils are not suitable for use in motorcycles. Look on the back of the bottle ,in the circular "seal"  . if the words energy conserving appear in the bottom of the "seal "  , DO NOT USE IT.
Energy conserving means they have left out the zinc and other anti scuff ingredients that protect the engine on start up, to protect the catalytic converter from being "poisoned " .

Well, I was using Castrol 20w50, and it does say that on the back.

So I should go to a cycle dealer and get it? Or will a synthetic auto oil work as long as it is not energy conserving?

I have noticed some funky shifting sometimes, especially from 4th down to 3rd.
I hope that I didn't harm the engine in any way.

It's down for the new tires anyway for a few days.

Seems to start and run fine though.
The previous owner could not remember what he was putting in it, after sitting for 3 years.

I'm using an automotive oil from Autozone.  Some have reported clutch problems with auto oils but I've used them since I bought the vision with, no clutch problems. And I give it no mercy.
You could used Torco racing oil , available at many Motorcycle stealers , its very good, but in the 10 to 12 dollar range.

yamaha no longer makes 20-40 Yamalube... I never liked it much anyway.... seemed very runny during an oil change...
I used Mobil 1 20-50 and it was too slippery.... starter clutch would skip intermittently... plus $9 a qt.

I do like Valvoline 20-50 motorcycle oil.... about $4 at autozone pepboys type places.

read the back of any jug of oil.... they are mostly from Ashland, PA
Valvoline is a division of Ashland, inc.

I suspect oil is oil until a company adds their special herbs and spices, just like gas is gas in a pipeline until it gets to the [insert gas company name here] tank farm and is spiced up.

After many years of Yamalube, I've been back & forth with Bel-Ray's full synth & semi-synth oils.  Both have been great.  I do notice some small amount of oil migration through the engine seals when I use the full synth.  None with the semi.  Runs cooler with either full or semi synthetics than it ever did on full dino oils.  Changing oil tomorrow & planning to use the Bel-Ray semi synth (or whatever semi-synth I can find now that the store I used to get it at closed).  The old oil has only about 200 miles (since the last stator change late last Summer) so I won't be changing the filter.  I will open up the filter cover & drain it, though.

Total agreement, the shifting is much smoother with the semi or full synthetics.

H₂O

I've been using 0-15w crisco. Works pretty well, smells good when it gets past the rings tho :D

I use same as night vision

It'd be pretty easy to make 82 forks air forks. Just drill and tap each cap for a shrader valve.

Inane , is that a synthetic Crisco or a mineral base ? 

I wouldn't recommend the crisco since they removed the transfat.... it was reformulated about a year ago. If you still have some of the old stuff, let me know... mum's pies just aren't the same.

Quote from: Night Vision on May 13, 2009, 09:07:12 PM
mum's pies just aren't the same.

Real pie crusts use butter and vodka....

Nothing makes a flakier pie crust than lard.  Ask any professional pastry chef.

I changed my oil today.  My preferred Bel-Ray was not available.  Got 3 quarts of Yamalube 10-50 semi-synth.  Expensive, but I normally don't put enough miles on in a year to need more than a Spring change - at least I wouldn't if i didn't keep frying stators every 1,000 miles.  (almost positive I have it licked now - the last one went 2500 miles & I know why it failed early)  An additional $30 for oil isn't that big a deal when doing the stator.  Sure glad I got a Cometic reusable gasket, though!

H₂O

Doing the steering bearings at the moment.
Got it all back together this morning, but can't find a reference as
to how tight to get the tapered roller bearings.
I have them snug right now.

Anyone done the tapered bearings recently?

But seriously folks, i use 10 or 15 (30 or 40, it doesnt matter) as long as its not "energy conserving" it'll be fine. Seriously, these arent 100k mile bikes, it doesnt make a lick of difference what kind of oil you're running as long as its actually engine oil and you change it as often as you should.

Quote from: musicweb on May 28, 2009, 04:28:54 PM
Doing the steering bearings at the moment.
Got it all back together this morning, but can't find a reference as
to how tight to get the tapered roller bearings.
I have them snug right now.

Anyone done the tapered bearings recently?

They need to be pretty snug or you will get speed wobbles.  I did mine by trial & error.  Got them snug, went for a ride, scared the $#!+ out of myself @ 35MPH.  Returned home, loosened the upper triple tree & tightened them down some more.  Mine might still be a touch on the loose side, but I get no speed wobbles and the steering is smooth.  Next time I have to take the fairing off, I'll probably tighten them a touch more.

H₂O

Quote from: h2olawyer on May 28, 2009, 05:07:29 PM

Quote from: musicweb on May 28, 2009, 04:28:54 PM
Doing the steering bearings at the moment.
Got it all back together this morning, but can't find a reference as
to how tight to get the tapered roller bearings.
I have them snug right now.

Anyone done the tapered bearings recently?

They need to be pretty snug or you will get speed wobbles.  I did mine by trial & error.  Got them snug, went for a ride, scared the $#!+ out of myself @ 35MPH.  Returned home, loosened the upper triple tree & tightened them down some more.  Mine might still be a touch on the loose side, but I get no speed wobbles and the steering is smooth.  Next time I have to take the fairing off, I'll probably tighten them a touch more.

H₂O

Sure is something when they're tight, eh?
Mine made me weave if i didnt hold on tight enough..  Over correcting the stiffness or something.

Not 100K? huh what mileage will i get before my vision explodes since i have been running full syn since about 6K.

Engine wear? Whats that? 8)

You should be sure to tell QBS that there not 100k bikes . He will be interested in that !

According to dminor, 39k miles is all you get.

Yes, but he has a tendency to go screaming down hills at 12000 RPM....

Brian

At last count, Mr. Q had , I believe 88,000 miles and going strong. he's a reasonable rider. He  once rode from Calif. (I think), to Texas in one 1100 mile stint.

I'm just relying on other peoples experience. After all I'm so green i should be riding a vespa <_<

Will be taking the bike for a spin later today to test the steering bearings.
Found some references to other bikes for tightness.

Most said initial torque to about 40 ft lbs....then back off and torque to about 15 ft lbs.
Then stem bolt to about 80 ft lbs.

We'll see....

As far as checking the valve clearances, I think I'll wait.
Looks like a job just to check them.
A winter project for sure.
It's running OK right now, so I'll wait.

A most excellent decision!

On first run the steering bearings were too tight. Had to constantly "fight" with it.

Got home and loosened the locking nuts about 1/8 of a turn, and now it feels good.

Amazing what the new bearings can do....I can even let go and it stays on track.

Much smoother steering and cornering......

Definitely a nice upgrade!

Glad you got them adjusted - I agree, tapered steering bearings are one of the top upgrades every Vision owner should make!  Ranks right up there with braided stainless brake line(s).

H₂O