Gonna replace the fuse box. Anybody wanna suggest an upgrade?
This is what I used, Tiger may have something different or better.
http://www.cyclenutz.com/Centech-FB-6-ATC-Fuse-Block_p_58.html
BDC
Thats what Im talkin about.
Thanks big time.
I used this one. Works well, though you can get mini ones these days which have a fuse 1/2 the size. It fits in stock location, but needs an extra mounting hole drilled.
Some people crimp connectors to their wires and them push on to the spades. Me, I soldered the wires directly onto the fuse box and shrinkwrapped. Connectors are the spawn of the devil.
There's not a lot of slack in the wires around there - I found it easiest to solder, and then mount the box afterwards.
There are 2 spare positions, I used one of them for my volt meter, and the other for my 139 decibel !!! airhorn
139 dB, are you deaf yet. Bet that horn gets grannies' attention. BDC
Quote from: roro on September 08, 2011, 02:32:30 AM
I used this one. Works well, though you can get mini ones these days which have a fuse 1/2 the size. It fits in stock location, but needs an extra mounting hole drilled.
Some people crimp connectors to their wires and them push on to the spades. Me, I soldered the wires directly onto the fuse box and shrinkwrapped. Connectors are the spawn of the devil.
There's not a lot of slack in the wires around there - I found it easiest to solder, and then mount the box afterwards.
There are 2 spare positions, I used one of them for my volt meter, and the other for my 139 decibel !!! airhorn
Which one did you use brother? Am i not seeing the forest for the trees? Did you post the link?
Thats the same one I used. I think I paid half that for it on ebay though.
David
Quote from: OregonVisionary on September 08, 2011, 09:40:39 AM
Which one did you use brother? Am i not seeing the forest for the trees? Did you post the link?
The one Bobby posted. Get the 6 blade, or even 8 blade version if you can find one
there's a 5 blade type from littlfuse available at Pep Boys and other auto retailers. Looks like the 6 fuse link above but shorter. Fits great..BUT needs to slid close to the "tray".Plus I soldered the connectrions and RTV sealed them.
:) I use the seperate in-line, blade type, fuse holders with the fuse cover. They come with a convenient length of wire at each end so you can cut to a required length. Solder in and cover with heat shrink. Before inserting the fuses I smear each one with dielectric grease.
Buy FIVE as you should replace the fuse holder in the headlight...its for the rad' fan and tends to get forgotten.
8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)
Ok I ordered the blade fuse recomended.
But its so damn nice here I couldnt wait for freight. I went to napa and found a replacement and I went home and put er in.
I also tried a product recommended by various different friends called seafoam. My first time hearing of it or trying it.
HOLY SHIT! After about 5 miles the damn vision is running WAY better! Hard to believe its nearly 30 years old. I did buy it with a new set of tires. Avon?
Im getting forks from Tiger, all his electric stuff I can get my hands on and Im buying another set of carbs to rebuild and install clean.
Question: Should I go ahead and replace the stator while Im at it? What other type of maintenance should I do?
Oh yea. It came with a fairing. I have to pick it up.
Install a voltmeter. When it reads less than 12.6v, replace the stator. Do you know the history of the starter clutch? At your bikes' 25/26 K miles, it's important to know.
Quote from: QBS on September 10, 2011, 04:46:20 PM
Install a voltmeter. When it reads less than 12.6v, replace the stator. Do you know the history of the starter clutch? At your bikes' 25/26 K miles, it's important to know.
Great advice on the voltmeter. Recomendations? And I think I need to do the starter clutch. I dont know the history. Dont I just need to just take it apart and put it back together?
I just rode it another 40 miles. Running better and better!
This is kinda crazy. I just stumbled into this bike. Ive always ridden 650 air cooled bikes mostly. This liqued cooled shavt drive V has freaking AMAZING torque! The weight and balance is suprisingly precise. Im into this bike $430. bucks now not counting gas. I forgot how much fun riding is!
OK. Here's the deal. Stator replacement represents approx. 40% of starter clutch reattachment labor. Cost of starter clutch replacement parts....if done Before the starter clutch housing cracks.....is peanuts. Otherwise, it's not peanuts but still not too bad.
You are looking at four possible scenarios:
A: Bad stator and bad starter clutch
B: Bad stator and an already reattached starter clutch
C: Bad starter clutch and good stator
D: Good starter clutch and good stator.
Without more data you go can't forward with any certainly. Talk to the previous owner and ask about the reattachment. Put a multimeter set on DCV across the battery poles with the idle at 2500 rpm and see stator output. RE: Starter clutch reattachment, if, at hot idle, the engine exhibits a knock or tap that goes away above 2500 rpm, the starter clutch needs reattachment. This idiosyncrasy is a factory defect that all Vs have. The tap starts at around 10k miles and develops into what sounds like the worst rod/main bearing failure you've ever heard. If left unattended the engine stops at approx. 27k miles. Once the starter clutch is properly reattached the fix is permanent and and the noise is gone.
A running Vision with new tires for $400! Gotta love it.
There are hundreds of posts on here about stators. Useful life varies considerably. I ordered a Tim Parrot rebuilt stator a couple years ago, and that seems to be keeping the stator gremlins at bay. The crispy looking used stator I put in originally has gone 4000+ miles and the volt meter is still tracking 14.1.
One argument for replacing the stator pre-emptively would be that you avoid toasting the regulator/rectifier. The Tim Parrot rebuild is $69.95 exchange. He often has them on e-bay as well.