The bike I'm working on is fully reassembled now. The sad thing is that it won't start anymore.
The bike was a bit hard to start when we stored it for the winter but was usually able to start.
The engine turns over and has enough battery power
The front cylinder seems to want to flood while the rear cylinder stays dry.
I got new spark plug wires and caps. The coils/spark plugs are definitely making spark.
If I spray carb cleaner in the carbs, the engine seems to want to start and would almost run.
Do you think that I need to clean the carbs or should I check something else? Is there a carb rebuild kit available?
Yes. No. '82's, yes.
In case your interested , I do carb rebuilds.
What about 83's Rick? BDC
Quote from: Rick G on April 27, 2012, 12:16:27 AM
In case your interested , I do carb rebuilds.
Hmm I'll keep that in mind! Thanks for the offer.
I know the accelerator pump works fine on both carbs cause it's squirting fuel down the barrels.
When I use carb spray, I get backfires through the carbs... should this happen because of the wasted spark and valve overlap or am I having a simple timing problem?
It's possible you have some other problem but given the history of these carbs it's more than likely a dirty carb issue. It's especially likely to be the carbs if you did not drain the bowls while in storage. Even doing that mine will run a bit "off" for the first ride or two.
QuoteThe bike I'm working on is fully reassembled now. The sad thing is that it won't start anymore
What was the nature of this work and does it have anything to do with your current woes? Did it sit unused for some period of time?
The bike ran somewhat fine last year. It did have a weak spot around 4500/6000 rpm. Was always a bit hard to start tough.
Unfortunately, the bike has been put in storage with the fuel bowls full.
What I did to the bike was the following:
- Starter rebuild
- Starter clutch fix
- Master cyl rebuild
- Front forks rebuild
- Fuse box replacement
- Spark plug leads (from Tiger)
Nothing has been done to the carbs. The bike has a bit of rust in the tank (that's now leaking since I took it off... grrr) and there's no fuel filter.
I guess the next step is to at least check the jets and fuel bowls. I'll have to adjust and check the float level too.
I know the carb mechanics but never rebuild one yet. These don't seem to be too complicated.
Make sure your battery is charged. The ignition needs a minimum of 10.6 volts to fire. The starter will turn the engine with under 10 volts. As for the popping, if there is 10.6 volts when you turn the key on or off the ignition will fire, one time.
Vnaries operating without fuel filters are doomed to chronic carb problems forever. Fuel filters are cheap and easy to install. There is no excuse to run without one. While I'm on my soap box, installing an inline fuel cut off valve (sourced from the small engine repair depot of your choice) in conjunction with the fuel filter is an excellent way to escape the anxiety of petcock and float bowl needle valve uncertainties.
BDC , I don't do 83 carbs, as I have zero parts for them. If I had an '83 ,I'd put 82 carbs on it!
I cleaned one carb.
When I removed the idle mixture screw, all I got was a spring and the screw, no O-ring whatsoever. This can't be normal right?
Edit:
I guess the washer kept the O-Ring in place
a slight bend at the tip of a straightened paperclip will fish them out.
Good!
Both carbs are now cleaned. I just need to adjust the float level and put them on the bike.
The main jet is 122.5 on these carbs. Is it a common size for these bikes?
rear should be 127.5.
Cleaning the carbs did it! The carbs seemed to be clean but I guess they still needed a good wash.
It now starts. Not without a bit of persuasion but it starts. I'll now have to adjust the carb. I'll have to check what size is the other jet to make sure I've got the right ones.
I just checked the rear and it's 127.5 indeed.
It's been raining for 4 days now. Can't wait to get the bike out and adjust the carbs.