Hello all. I am George, from Romania. My english is poor, so do not shoot me...
I bought a cheap Yamaha XZ550 two mounth ago, from some one, as wreck and I start to work on it. It is a 11U model and stayed for long time, incomplete and dismantled.
The big problem was that the engine frozen two times (two winters) and had wather in the cooling circuit. Both cylinder heads was broken, thermostat cover the same. Well, I replaced both cylinders, cylinder heads and pistons, bought from ebay, all engine gaskets and o-rings, reassembled and put it inside the frame. Changed the wiring harness with other one bought from Internet (the original one was chopped), another TCI and headlight. I was repainted all parts (engine, tank, front fender, frame side covers, wheels). The carbs was dismantled piece by piece, cleaned all parts and remounted back. That are all ok, till here... Filing gas in tank and try to start the engine..., disappointment, the engine start in one cylinder. Checked carbs, petcock, starter before, but forget to verify the ignition. Unmount both spark plugs, check the sparkles and surprise, one missed. I bought the TCI like used good one, but didn't work. I had another aftermarket one, noname, which gave me with the bike, look like http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm and I connect it. The engine start well, work well and I could made the appropiate adjustments. Still I have two problems: the tacho didn't work (I checked all wires, DC voltage, all okay) and the starter spinning very hard when the engine is warm and do not start the engine. I checked the brushes and are in parameters.
The most important things are how can I fix the tacho troubles and one of TCI (I have two faulty TID12-06). Thanks
Regards,
George
Hi George, your english is certainly good enough that I can understand you have done a great job on your bike! As for the tach, you probably need a replacement. Check the Swap Shop. Humber who is in Poland has an instrument cluster, tach and speedometer for sale. Maybe you can get together on it. As for the TCI, there is good information on Leathers Ignition. It is good reading. Welcome and good luck.
The tach gets its' signal from one of the low voltage wires on one of the spark coils. I think it is a gray wire, but not sure. Sorry, also not sure which coil the signal is taken from.
From what you have reported regarding bringing your poor bike back to life, I can say that you're a better man than me. Well done!
Your starter may be "out of time" If it is assembled out of time it will turn very hard , if at all. Do you have a manual (book) on the XZ550? If not Lucky has them in CD form, for sale and postage would not be much.
Back.
Changing the battery with new one. Charging system indicating 13.8-14.1 volts (before 13.6-13.8). Starter spinning well now, engine cold or warm start okay. The mA meter from tacho is broken (winding burned). Also electronic circiut is broken, probably integrated circuit T2295A faulted, so, another tacho :(
The idle speed is not constant, oscillating high or low. Still working on it. The YICS dismantled, and holes opturated. Photos before and after (now)
Those are great before and after pictures, what a clean engine! Looks great, I hope you get your technical oddities fixed up and can enjoy all of the hard work you've put in to it.
The engine does look clean! Is that painted and if so what type/color did you use?
Quote from: Rikugun on July 26, 2012, 09:03:26 AM
The engine does look clean! Is that painted and if so what type/color did you use?
Hello. The engine was fully degreased before and I used Silver Metallic / Smoke Grey (code 140 / 96L) dye, for Opel Tigra and varnish over. I do not know how to resist on it...
Need to change oil. Can I use Repsol 15W50 4T?
Casrtol 20w50 works well for me in Texas, but may be a bit heavy for starting in colder climes.
I'm using Suzuki 4 stroke oil (10-40),s highly recommended and is $4.95 a quart!!
Bought two pices of BDW93 (for TCI) and one LM2907 to redesign tachometer circuit (I will eliminate the rev. limiter wire). Next days will work for its. Keep in touch...
Quote from: Jimustanguitar on July 26, 2012, 08:15:04 AM
Those are great before and after pictures, what a clean engine! Looks great, I hope you get your technical oddities fixed up and can enjoy all of the hard work you've put in to it.
That pics are when I bought the motobike and what is now...
Rick G you still have the VX?
Yes i still have the VX , its my only ride for now,
Quote from: lonerider on July 29, 2012, 05:36:29 PM
Bought two pices of BDW93 (for TCI) and one LM2907 to redesign tachometer circuit (I will eliminate the rev. limiter wire). Next days will work for its. Keep in touch...
I dismantled the ETD41 transistors from TCI unit. They are ok at junctions measurement, but I changed it because I tought that they lost the ยต factor (I met that situation other time) and I considered obsolete. Nothing changed, the TCI isn't work. I think that is something "deep" and I believe I need to draw the schematic..., maybe is something to one or both integrated circuits located under the SMD circuit board. Still work on it...
Bad things with carbs. After few more minutes after the engine starts, the gas leaking on drain nozzle and the engine "drown". I checked the fuel level and seems to be okay (like I see in repair manual). Any ideas...
The O ring above the needle seat has probably failed, this will cause gas to bypass the needle seat assembly and flood the engine. Check it out.
i have no o-rings to needle seat. these have to be
You must remove the needle seat to find the o ring. There is a small forked retainer , held in by a small screw. remove the screw and pull the seat out with needle nose pliars. The o ring will be on the back, opposite the seat .
I have some o-ring on the needle seat, seems to be used... I'll change tomorow, if I find pieces...
My mistake, I was tought that the needle "rests" on a small o-ring inside the seat...
The tip of the needle has "vitron "tip , it is not replaceable , only the needle is.
Mine are metal, not viton, including replacements I recently used. Either way they don't last forever. Having said that they will generally provide long service. Maybe there was just some debris fouling the fit? It doesn't take much. The o-ring fits around the brass seat and should be a snug fit in the carb body. These are often the culprit.
Hello guys,
I guess I solved the carburetors, changed the needle seats o-rings. Fuel level constant ant okay. I rebuilt the second TCI that I had and it works, bought the two transistors, replace them, resoldered all joints. Until now, I thought that the aftermarket TCI was not the right thing. Now I think the whole problem is carburetion. The original TCI and the aftermarket TCI behave identically in the current operation of the engine. The carbs are set like the book said (repair manual). Only things that I have questions are the pieces between carbs and cylinders, manifolds. Tomorow, the day for manifolds...
I had a VX800 before, bike stalled for years (3 or more) before I bought, carbs blocked, paint burned, chassis rusted, etc..., but I never encountred so so many problems like I met with this bike. I miss my VX... Meanwhile, I listen some music to my own builded tube amp...
The Vision will out run the VX , especially on a twisty road. The VX is a better long distance bike, after you do something about the horrible seat !
YMMV
Rebuilt the tacho, today. Four hours of work. Maybe you think I'm mad, but I like to REBUILD instead buy other. Maybe I am a poor man, but I have patience (and some knowledge). I will try to explain the operation, if you want, but I need time to try to translate...
Manifolds, There are big questions about these... The idle speed could not be set, it is oscillatory, I have big questins...
QuoteMaybe you think I'm mad, but I like to REBUILD instead buy other.
We applaud that thinking here on the ROV. Well, I do anyway! :P :D
Rebuild the tack? I would be interested.
I run Royal Purple full synthetic in both mine. Everyone says syn oil is bad for the older bikes but both mine love it and i actually get better performance and lower temp. I also toggled both my fans as the switch has a tendancy to fail. Jon
Need help, again... How could I remove the needle bearing, to change the oil seal (used) in the rear arm? Thanks.
Hello again. Anyone know the dimensions for oil seal, beside the needle bearing, in the rear arm? Thanks.
The bearings you can get out with a drift/screwdriver & hammer from the opposite side. Get them in with a home made bearing press made of long threaded rod and a some washers either side. Tighten the rod to pull the bearing inwards.
The seal (which is not much of a seal) - I never measured, but it's the same size and shape as the bearing cap, and about 3mm thick.
I'm talking about that. I think I didn' said it well, in my poor English.
"The Highwaymen" music calm me (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DKfZsLjpCQ), after a carbs troubles day. I dont' know how to solve the problem. I can't explain the cause. Engine is running good, mixture is okay, the idle speed is oscillatory (but doesn't matter). I cleaned the carbs, once, twice, third, i think I do those more like new... That is not all..., some times I run my bike and stop the engine for a while (half hour, one hour, two or more hours) and start it again to continue the trip... after more engine revs, the gas begin to flow to drain nozzle (especially from front carb, sometime from back carb) . I inspected the needle seats o-rings (changed last autumn) and okay, Fuel level constant and okay. Fuel pump seems to be okay... I have suspicion about bypass and regulator diaphragm (visually seems to be ok), but i don't know how to check this. In this case, when the gas begin to flow to drain nozzle, this happen in any condition of petcock (full, res or pri). So, I don't know, where to start and what check, again... Any idea welcome.
Do you have an inline fuel filter installed?
Quote from: lonerider on June 10, 2013, 03:04:44 PM
"The Highwaymen" music calm me (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DKfZsLjpCQ), after a carbs troubles day. I dont' know how to solve the problem. I can't explain the cause. Engine is running good, mixture is okay, the idle speed is oscillatory (but doesn't matter). I cleaned the carbs, once, twice, third, i think I do those more like new... That is not all..., some times I run my bike and stop the engine for a while (half hour, one hour, two or more hours) and start it again to continue the trip... after more engine revs, the gas begin to flow to drain nozzle (especially from front carb, sometime from back carb) . I inspected the needle seats o-rings (changed last autumn) and okay, Fuel level constant and okay. Fuel pump seems to be okay... I have suspicion about bypass and regulator diaphragm (visually seems to be ok), but i don't know how to check this. In this case, when the gas begin to flow to drain nozzle, this happen in any condition of petcock (full, res or pri). So, I don't know, where to start and what check, again... Any idea welcome.
Quotethe idle speed is oscillatory (but doesn't matter).
It just may matter. If the idle isn't steady, it's telling you something is wrong. The overflowing carb(s) reinforces this idea. I tend to doubt it's the fuel pump regulator or bypass feature. Even without this feature, I'm not sure that pump can develop sufficient pressure to overpower a properly sealing needle/seat assembly, but anything is possible. :) Just out of curiousity, did the leak develop after having the pump apart or did you take the pump apart after the leak started?
You can eliminate the pump to make sure it is not the cause but it would take some reconfiguration of the lines. You'd have to connect a line from the petcock directly to the T fitting that feeds the carbs. Fill the tank and run the petcock on "PRI". If the intermittent leaks persist, it's not the pump. If you plan on running like this for any length of time you may want to disconnect the vacuum line that powers the pump and cap the port to stop any vacuum leaks.
I'd suggest re-checking the float height and fuel level also.
To dependably flow fuel without a pump you'll need at least 1.5 gals. in the tank. Full would be better. As suggested by Rik, bypass the pump, go for a ride, and see what happens.
My bike is 11U model (European), 1985? year. I never found this year of fabrication for this motorcycle, except this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_XZ_550#Specifications. Otherside, i never saw more then two tipes of carburetor sets: one here http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xz550rj-1982_model8893/partslist/B-10.html#results, and one here http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xz550rk-1983_model8947/partslist/B-10.html#results.
I have first tipe with bypass regulator. What happen if I suppress the bypass regulator. Normally, need to work without it.
The gas do not flow over today. Like nothing happened.
Again, do you have an in line fuel filter installed?
Quote from: QBS on June 11, 2013, 09:25:30 PM
Again, do you have an in line fuel filter installed?
No, I haven't, except the strainer of petcock, inside tank.
Install an in line fuel filter and see if your world doesn't get a little brighter.