95 degrees today. I replaced the thermo switch. My last ride got way too hot. I tested the thermo switch and it was dead. I put the seat and tank back on. On a test ride the temp got higher in the green, but not out of control. Things were finally normal. Then the engine bucked like it was cutting out. Then it died. No restart. I parked. I had filled the fuel tank before I left.
After awhile I checked the pet cock. The battery and the starter worked. Sounded good, but no fire. The black fuel tank felt hot. I opened the gas cap to make sure it wasn't vacuum locking.
Any ideas what to check?
I'll take a UHaul trailer and pick it up in an hour and back to the garage.
I am befuddled. I'm hoping to get unfuddled!
First off check to see if you have spark. Stick an old plug in the cap and ground it and then while you are cranking the engine check to see if you have a nice blue spark at the plug. Of course the old plug needs to be one that isn't faulty.
Jefferson - I'll do that.
I remember months ago, I had a short cut out on the highway. The motor quickly recovered. After that I checked the battery ground terminal. I didn't see anything wrong. I cleaned the ground connection to the motor.
This time it didn't recover at all. It cranks. All electrics are working. Mrs G had to pick me up and I left the bike on the street. I came back and got it with a UHaul trailer.
Today I'll buy spare plugs from my local dealership.
I wish this Vision would tell me where it hurts!!!!
This morning I turned on the key and nothing happened when I hit the starter.
Several months ago the starter wouldn't crank at all. I had a pro tech look at it. He replaced the starter relay.
Another problem....
Make sure you haven't hit the kill switch on the rt handlebar. Then you might jump the starter straight off the battery and see if it cranks. Check your battery voltage. It could have dropped low enough that it caused the stoppage and then the no fire at home.
Yes.. I toggled the kill switch. I charged the battery. Still no go.
I'll try tomorrow.
Failing stator? I had an electrical cut-out before (which you mention) and managed a pop start but it never again fired up on its own until new stator went in. You mention heat and thermostat problems -- that's been an issue with mine and killed two stators because of it. If you're seeing spark off the plugs (can't tell if you tested this yet) then I guess you can rule this and TCI out.
Looking forward to the solution. I'm sure my day in this exact situation will come...
A couple things to check out first because they are easy: side stand switch, and clutch switch. These are safety 'cut off' features that can be problematic. The side stand switch can get loaded with grease and dirt because it is in a low position where it can accumulate oil/grease/dirt , and as the oil/grease 'dries' it gets stiffer, sometimes preventing the moving parts from moving. The clutch switch is exposed to the elements up there on the handlebars, so time and the elements can take a toll on it eventually. Make sure to check the connections of these switches to the wiring harness too. Volt/ohm meters are handy tools.
Another possibility is ignition coil failure. This is sometimes intermittent, as a break in a wire in a coil can make contact but when the coil warms up from use the wires expand and the break is opened to make a gap. This requires replacement of the offending ignition coil. Happy hunting and good luck.
Quote from: fret not on July 18, 2020, 07:52:14 PM
A couple things to check out first because they are easy: side stand switch, and clutch switch. These are safety 'cut off' features that can be problematic. The side stand switch can get loaded with grease and dirt because it is in a low position where it can accumulate oil/grease/dirt , and as the oil/grease 'dries' it gets stiffer, sometimes preventing the moving parts from moving. The clutch switch is exposed to the elements up there on the handlebars, so time and the elements can take a toll on it eventually. Make sure to check the connections of these switches to the wiring harness too. Volt/ohm meters are handy tools.
Another possibility is ignition coil failure. This is sometimes intermittent, as a break in a wire in a coil can make contact but when the coil warms up from use the wires expand and the break is opened to make a gap. This requires replacement of the offending ignition coil. Happy hunting and good luck.
Intermittent? I got it in spades. I'll go after the coils. I've done a lot of electrical work.
Stator. I put in a new one!
It's gotta be something...Right!???
Thanks for the ideas. Someone's got it right...I hope!!!
The weather in DC, NO Va is miserably hot. I have a garage but no AC.
From Fret Not on another post:
Test them if you have the facility, or have them tested. If they test "good" when cool but fail in service they need to be replaced. Ignition coils get warm when in use, and the heat cycling can cause internal coil wire to break and open the circuit.
I ordered some used stock coils from eBay that were tested.
From Partzilla, I ordered the starter relay. From Amazon, I'm getting the starter solenoid.
First, no spark, but I the starter was cranking. Then the starter stopped cranked.
Half the battle is getting the parts!
Of course you have checked the fuses.
Quote from: fret not on July 20, 2020, 12:38:57 AM
Of course you have checked the fuses.
I will do that. I didn't see any problems with the electrics, but you never know! Good idea.
Did you check the starter by jumping it to see if it is good? The starters full of oil cause more problems than solenoids. Fret not's suggestion on the switchs is a good place to start too. Eliminate those as a source of your problems.
Quote from: jefferson on July 20, 2020, 10:50:17 AM
Did you check the starter by jumping it to see if it is good? The starters full of oil cause more problems than solenoids. Fret not's suggestion on the switchs is a good place to start too. Eliminate those as a source of your problems.
Yes, the starter jumped on, when it got connected.
I replaced the starter relay with a new one. Tried the switch. No click. No nothing.
The 4 primary fuses are ok.
The run/stop at the handlebar is good. Both wires are neg. then both go positive with the key on.
The old solenoid is 3.2 ohms on my VOmeter. The new unbranded one from Amazon reads 3.6 - 3.8.
Target is 3.5 ohms from the Haynes manual.
I'm still getting zero cranking when I hit the start button. I have no clue what to 'fix'. I can't find anything broken.
Your switch may not be making contact.
Quote from: jefferson on July 25, 2020, 03:23:06 PM
Your switch may not be making contact.
I wasn't getting 12v to the solenoid. That may be the issue. I use a Pilot Probe. Both contacts read NEG with the switch on, both went to 12v POS.
Well, your problem has me beat. Don't know why it should be relevant to your problem, but for good measure check the fuse inside the headlamp shell.
I'm not sure where you aren't getting 12 volts from, the battery or the switch. The battery side should have 12 volts on it all the time. The wire coming from the starter switch should have nothing until you press the button, and then 12 volts will be on that wire as well as the wire going to the starter. When you say switch are you talking about the ignition switch or the starter button? That last sentence is very confusing the way it is worded and punctuated.
Quote from: cvincer on July 25, 2020, 09:26:48 PM
Well, your problem has me beat. Don't know why it should be relevant to your problem, but for good measure check the fuse inside the headlamp shell.
What does that fuse control?
Quote from: jefferson on July 25, 2020, 11:17:59 PM
I'm not sure where you aren't getting 12 volts from, the battery or the switch. The battery side should have 12 volts on it all the time. The wire coming from the starter switch should have nothing until you press the button, and then 12 volts will be on that wire as well as the wire going to the starter. When you say switch are you talking about the ignition switch or the starter button? That last sentence is very confusing the way it is worded and punctuated.
The battery is putting out +12v. When I push the START button, the OFF/RUN switch at the handlebar his two Red/White(?) wires, show POS 12v.
The Pilot Probe III tool connects it's power leads to the POS and NEG terminals of the battery. It's pointed probe will show a reading of any connection. It has a negative light and a positive light. When it finds a positive, it gives a read out of the voltage it reads.
Sunday, here, I'll take a day off. And try to verify what's going on tomorrow.
What happens at the solenoid when you push the start button?
I will have to check my manual but I think it's the cooling fan.
Pretty sure you are right on the cooling fan.
The 'headlight fuse' is in a circuit that connects the starter switch, engine kill switch, and the headlight. Not sure what all else might be connected. The wire will be RED/WHITE or RED/YELLOW. If you don't have a wiring diagram you can download a shop manual from POD's links.
I've checked the four fuses of the old fuse box. They're ok.
That separate 10a fuse in the headlight bucket just runs the fan relay. I just checked the manual to see for sure.
Quote from: jefferson on July 27, 2020, 08:47:09 PM
That separate 10a fuse in the headlight bucket just runs the fan relay. I just checked the manual to see for sure.
Gotcha. Will do. I took off yesterday from working in the garage. It's too hot.
I got out this afternoon to check the starter solenoid. The manual calls it a relay. Plugged it in.
Opened the right hand switch. Opened the Starter button connections by taking off the two inner covers. I tried the starter. THE STARTER CRANKED!!!! I don't know why it didn't work, I had the same components.
As suggested I opened the headlight. There isn't a fuse there.
I'm going to pull the upper fairing and the fuel tank. I'm going to replace the coils. I will have to re-attach a ground circuit board I put in for some farkles in the cockpit. Once all that is off, I'll look for the fan fuse.
Thanks for the help and encouragement here!!!
If you have the full fairing the fuse will be in the bundle of wires behind the headlight. If the fan is working there shouldn't be a need to check it.
I got the coils installed, put the air box back on.... and the overflow coolant tank.
It started and ran a bit. I can't do a test ride today as it's raining today. I'll get out to the garage and put the Nocco on the battery to make sure it's happy. If the rain lets up I'll get ride in.
Thanks for the help from 'guys who know'!!!