I keep saying that I'll do this, but it kept getting really cold in the garage even with the kerosene heater.
Now I'm prepared to get 'er done as the temperatures are supposed to hit the 70's here in VA this weekend.
I have all the tools I need but here's the stickler. I'm going to be car less this weekend so I want to have anticipated any problems so once I get her going, I don't have to leave to pick anything else up (laugh all you want at my daring to beat the odds.
Does anyone remember from when they did the fix the exact length of the replacement bolts they used? Chances are that I'll have to special order them as the stores around here have a crappy selection of metric ANYTHING.
Also, does anyone have a good horror story to throw my way or good tips for getting this done?
Obviously making sure the bolts all go back in the same holes is really important. But one thing that can make it all sour on you is leaks after you've put it all back together.? :P
IMPORTANT.....when reinstalling, make sure the casing and the cover are CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN!!!! Don't leave any gasket material or even residue on either the cover or the casing.? ;)
Mutt
it's another $12, but get two gasketts, not one. when reinstalling the cover, glue it to the engine, not the cover. the rotor will knock it off the cover & the magnetic pull of the rotor will mess things up if the cover gets pulled on with the gasket misaligned.
Awesome- I already have a few gaskets on hand due to forum advice. As I remember from last time I was in there I needed to use the Red RTV sealant around where the wires come out of the case, is that generally where things leak?
Those wire grommets are where my leaks have come from. I use Threebond 1104 (same as Yamabond / Hondabond 4). Make sure everything is surgical theater clean before putting it all back together. Also, wait at least 12 hours & preferably 24 before filling the oil. It lets the sealants do their thing before being exposed to the oil & you have less chance of leaks.
Good Luck! ;D
H2O
Having multiple gaskets is a good idea, next time I have to go in there I think I'm going to try one of those Cosmetic gaskets, I guess it's supposed to work better without sealant. I don't know about red, but I've used Permatex grey and (most recently) Hondabond to do mine. I make sure to put it all around the grommets, and on the surface between them as well. Resist the urge to fill the entire chamber between the two sets of grommets with sealant (if only it were that easy)
If anything get bolts that are just a little too long, you can always hit them with the hacksaw and file, or a grinder if you have one. I can't say I know of any horror stories, but don't try to use the flywheel puller backwards or you'll be rushing to the hardware store to desperately try and find replacement bolts for it that are long enough :-[
might as well do the shift shaft seal and check the balancer gear nuts as well. take a good look at the stator, especially at the top, be sure it's not burning.
Small tip:? If you need to shorten your starter clutch attachement bolts, find a metric nut that screws onto the bolt and run it down out of the way from where all the shortening activity will be taking place.? Then shorten the bolt as needed.? When finished shortening, run the nut almost(but not quite) off the end of the bolt and then run it back down about 10 threads and repeat this process until the nut will smoothly and easily run all the way off the bolt.? By doing this you will have insured that the bolts will easily start into whatever you may need to screw them into.
Quote from: Lucky on March 06, 2006, 06:18:48 PM
might as well do the shift shaft seal and check the balancer gear nuts as well. take a good look at the stator, especially at the top, be sure it's not burning.
Where do I get the seal and what do I check for on the balancer nut? Also, what length bolts should I get? Maybe a best guess and a "you can always cut these down"
I am also doing my starter clutch. And I just got the flywheel off - heating it for about 10 minutes with a heatgun helped a lot.
Now my problem is that the old bolts striped the threads in the flywheel. So I thought I use the holes right next to it for the clutch bolts and drill out the old holes with new threads for the next time I have to pull the thing off. I thought drilling it to use M10 1.25 threads. Anybody an opinion on that or better suggestions or tips?
BTW - is it worth getting the gaskets from a Yamaha dealer or is it easier to cut them out of gasket paper oneself - do dealers actually still carry these gaskets?
Gaskets are still available from both Yamaha and Cometic.
I think I would just use thread inserts, but I may just be too paranoid about ballance issues.
you can use the holes next to the stipped out, but you won't be able to remove it later if needed, & that is a possability.
you could have the holes helicoiled, tapped out the next size (10) but i'm not sure the heads will then fit in the recesses in the clutch..
I see no reason you couldn't use hardened nuts on the other end too, just be sure they're tight, locktited & peened.