There are enough pieces off the bike now that I get a niggling fear in the back of my head that I won't remember to put something on.
Next time we see you I don't think we will know it's your V....
FC Series 4. 1987 base model, I purchased it from the dealer in December 1986.
Brian
| I received a set of Galfer Braided brake lines for the Vision, a two-line system. Today they went on and the bleeding began. Since the old system was a three-line system, the brake lines had to be routed a different path. The old system had a single line that went to a junction in the middle of the forks. From there two lines went to the brakes. The new system has a dual-banjo bolt at the master cylinder, and one line to each brake. The image at the far left is the center section of the bike that has been recently painted. Pretty much the entire frame has now been painted. I have to do some clean up work on the engine itself, polishing and cleaning, but the bike is looking quite nice now. And amusingly enough, I need to replace the brake lever because the paint is starting to chip off of it. This on a motorcycle that has never been in an accident in the entire 23 years of its life. And since the bike was going together, I wanted to put some body-work on, so the front fender went on. I wheeled the vision out of the garage for a shot or two, then back in because it was starting to rain... (http://members.cruzio.com/~moffetb/vision/Master-12-9.jpg) | (http://members.cruzio.com/~moffetb/vision/Vision-12-9.jpg) |
| (http://members.cruzio.com/~moffetb/vision/wires-1-15.jpg) | The wires have been contained, repeat, the wires have been contained. Needless to say, I did some careful looking at the wire-routing diagram for the 1983, and the basic idea is to separate the two main bundles into left and right of the brake line connection. I left mine on, even though I now have the two-line system from Galfer, just so I don't lose it. I also added in the anti-freeze, which took a while. I would add some, wipe up the spill, wait a while, add some more. I undid the bleed on top of the Tee behind the radiator, and that went fairly easily. I occasionally ran the starter to get the water pump working. Finally, after about 3/4 of a gallon, the level in the radiator didn't drop at all. I wrapped teflon tape around the bleeder nut and put it back in. And, finally, I spent some time sanding and painting the frame that the fairing connects to. You can't see it, but it's hanging from my garage door opener rails by bungie cords. I went to pick up a fuse block (actually two) but the local Kragen was out of them. I want to attach one under the fairing for miscellaneous devices (like my voltage gauge) Oh yes, and the horn works fine, Thanks Tiger :-) Brian P.S. my bike is still mostly original, but it's getting more pieces from other bikes on it. I'm waiting for my shorty-stalks to come in, to see how they work out! |
| (http://members.cruzio.com/~moffetb/vision/vision-2-2.jpg) | Still waiting on my carb rebuild kit, though since it was shipped to work and I haven't been there for a week, it's probably waiting for me. The wires by the battery box are a hot and cold line that will go to a buss behind the fairing. 16 gauge wire good for 10 amps, mostly to power the new lights (55 watt x 2, not currently installed). The fairing needs cleaning still, but I wanted to verify the fit of where the new fuse box will go, along with the lights that will be below the turn-signals (I'm leaning toward that anyway.) And I finally lost a bolt, one of the ones that hold the mirror mounts on. ::) Off to the hardware store I go... Brian |
SV,
One of the hoses is supply from the pump, use that.
The other is a return to the tank because the 83's circulate the fuel to prevent vapor lock. No one has vapor lock problems so it's probably useless under normal riding. It will leak out from the float valve supply tube in the 83 carbs so you have to plug the carbs return with your favorite method.
$0.02
;)
Coil
What's the easyest way to get kits comming to my house?
the S line reuse if it's not dryrotted.
| The past few weeks have been busy for me, so I catch time to work on the bike when I can. One of the things I've been doing is putting in an electrical panel behind the dash. I've put in a 4-fuse block, and a 4 ground block. I tried to find a fuse block that takes blade type fuses, but have been completely unsuccesful. So, I used the normal old fuses. Since that panel doesn't move, and that area doesn't get wet no matter what the weather, I think it will work out fine. I haven't put in a main line fuse from the battery to the fuse block, rather the first (top in photo) acts as the main fuse and then the others are pulled off of that. I'm not sure I won't redesign this in the future, but it looks solid. The switch at the top of the panel is for the running lights, It is tucked up under the fairing itself a little bit, but it can be reached while in riding position. Turns out that the instructions I received were incorrect, they had the switch wired backwards. I wasn't sure, so I tested, and I'm thankful. And finally, I completely cleaned and fixed up the fuel pump from the carbs using the "Keyster Carb Kit" I received from Ebay. | (http://members.cruzio.com/~moffetb/vision/dash-back-2-25.jpg) (http://members.cruzio.com/~moffetb/vision/fuel-pump-2-25.jpg) |
yeah, they aren't easy
I tried to find a fuse block that takes blade type fuses, but have been completely unsuccesful.
Didn't attach the fuse block & ground strip to the dash - used the fairing frame & zip ties.
I can check if AutoZone here has any more of them next time I'm near there. If they do, I'll pick one up & send it to you.
Sorry for the thread hijack, Brian. Back to your reconditioning!
| (http://members.cruzio.com/~moffetb/vision/rear-carb-3-11.jpg) | (http://members.cruzio.com/~moffetb/vision/front-carb-3-11.jpg) |
| Rear Carb | Front Carb (pre-cleaning) |
What is "micro mesh",
Thanks for the post, VR.
| (http://members.cruzio.com/~moffetb/vision/Lights-3-24.jpg) |
|
The bike is looking good, when are you going to ride it? I hope you get it on the rode before the reunion.
Attach the carb synch tool to the vacuum ports on the intake boots. You may need to make some adapters to fit. There should be an extra port on the rear boot & the front one requires unhooking the petcock vacuum. Run with petcock on prime when you synch.
Ain't hobbies great! ;D
don't ever take it apart unless it leaks vacuume or fuel, then call me FIRST!!!!
the acellerator control valve on the 83 accel pump is supposed to keep the accel pumps from spraying with the bike off (lack of vacuume) so you don't flood it
I haven't decided if I'm going to add up what I've put into her this time around...
Brian
BTW...nice seat 8)
I rode the Vision down to the airport to participate in a Young Eagles rally ( http://www.youngeagles.org/ ). The bike ran flawlessly the entire way down and back. I had the running headlights on all the way. I also ran into traffic on the way back, which lead to stop and go traffic. For those people interested, the temp gauge ran from 40 percent from bottom to top of green to about 75 percent when stopped in traffic. Never approached the red. A good 40 mile ride there and back.
However, once I got home, the bike didn't want to start again, it would turn over and almost start, but not quite. Once in the garage I was able to get it started and looked at the voltage at the battery at 3500 RPM, it was registering 13.5 volts. Now this is the same battery that was in the bike when it died on the way to Paso, and I knew that it needs replacing. The battery basically sat for 10 months. It would only register 12 volts when fully charged, so I suspect one of the cells is gone.
Brian