Can anyone point me at a good resource for painting tanks and plastics? I have a full fairing plus tank and plastics that needs some chromatic lovin!
Would like to try to keep the costs down, but not to the point of ugly paint jobs.
As far as I can tell Reckon is a wealth of information on painting but until he chimes in check these out and absorb thy knowledge
http://ridersofvision.net/forum/xzindex.php?topic=4744.0
http://ridersofvision.net/forum/xzindex.php?topic=6239.0
http://ridersofvision.net/forum/xzindex.php?topic=6092.0 (http://ridersofvision.net/forum/xzindex.php?topic=6092.0)
http://ridersofvision.net/forum/xzindex.php?topic=4072.0 (http://ridersofvision.net/forum/xzindex.php?topic=4072.0)
Sounds like rattle canning it will result in a crappy/short lived paint job, and honestly i can't see justifying dropping 500 bucks in paint work on my vision :/
get your V running good... go on down to H2O's with some wobbly pops and a jar of paint and let him practice his painting skills :D
somewhere on this site is a thread and a link where a guy painted a car with a can of rustoleum and a roller... came out nice... least wise it looked good from here ;)
ahh... here it is : http://ridersofvision.net/forum/xzindex.php?topic=5264.msg44724#msg44724
go to that link in the ROV post by Proteus then scroll down that page until you see a post by "69chargeryeehaa"
I think a hearty "Holy sh*t!" is in order for the job on that charger.
Problem solved. Adding "Fresh Blue Rustoleum roll on paint" to my to-get list for my vision! If it works, i've got a nice looking vision, if it doesnt, i've got a primered vision!
not sure what your current garage setup is but with a fairly meager air compressor you could get a Harbor Freight paint sprayer and some pretty generic paint to do the job for under 200 including the sprayer.
I got my paint at www.paintforcars.com . (sorry Reckon if it makes you cringe. ;D )
The picture on the first page of the 1930 ford in the Sunshine Yellow is my color.
David
cathode-
in order to get a decent paint job on a bike, cheap, one must do some research.
1. find your local trade school, see if they hav ea body shop class
2. go to the school, talk to the instructor about getting bike painted
3. offer only color choice, and ok additional grafix if thye fit your ideas.
4. be prepared to leave the bike for one to two weeks ,as they only work on it in class.
what you will get back is a primo paint job, all the love and care that can be fostered by a pass or fail grade on the work, and a much ,much lower bill.
my original v was painted for under 100.00 and it looked like new from factory. too bad the dragon wanted a bite of it .
Kia, did you put anything on the tree of shame? i'm not sure if there are any vision parts on it...
then again, if there were, we probably would have taken them home & fixed them, lol
you basically have two choices, do it your self, or pay someone else,......
to do it yourself, realistically you will need about $200 in materials (thats everything, paint sandpaper, masking tape, filler, etc) I would go for the economy lines from PPG or DuPont.
PPG 's line is OMNI,....DuPont's is CHROMA,....I like PPG better,....it's easier to mix, and shoots better.
for the hard equipment you need at LEAST a 30 gallon, 4HP compressor (most tool rental places will have lots of these), if you rent one, get the NON OILER water trap (tell them you will be painting), and a 25 foot hose with a quik-connector at the end.
harbor frieght makes an AWESOME gun for shooting a motorcycle:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90977
it only needs 6cfm to run, so most 25-30 gallon compressors can easily keep up, and shoots a VERY glassy even finish,..as good or better than some guns costing ten times as much, and I'm dead serious.
ok here's the best tip I can give you:
TEST PANEL, TEST PANEL, TEST PANEL
get something like a sheet of steel, or ABS plastic, or an old tool box, or the garage fridge (my personal favorite) and pretend it's your V, and do ALL the steps, JUST like it was the bike,..that way if/when you screw up, you can just toss it, or strip it and start again. I NEVER understand why someone with little or no experience would just jump into an unframiliar project WITHOUT PRACTICING FIRST,.....but I see it ALL the time.
everyone makes mistakes,...a newbie makes them ON the bike, and the professional/craftsman makes the mistakes on a test panel, makes an adjustment, and then tackles the project.
the other tip I can give you is that the PREP is literally 80% of the painting,...painting is fun, sanding is tedious, so most people rush the sanding prep work, and jump into the painting steps, thinking "the paint will hide this",...well, most of you know how that works out. the professional/craftsman will spend days and weeks getting the surface straight, level, and smooth, then take only a couple of hours to paint it.
take your time with the prep, always use a sanding block, NEVER JUST YOUR HAND, use a soft block for curves, and a hard block for flats, sand filler with no finer than 120 grit, and really 80grit is what you want to use for shaping filler, use a guide coat (a mist of contrasting color primer, so you can see the scratches and low spots) use a GOOD polyester, or urethane (better) primer, sand the primer with 320 grit for a solid color (like red or black) and smooth it out to 600 for shooting any kind of metallic (NOT recommended for the newbies, shooting metallics is TOUGH)
finally the surface can't be too clean before painting: blow it off, then wipe it down with a prep solvent (PPG DX330), THEN using a new rag, wipe it down with windex, wait 20 minutes (so the static charge you made by wiping will dissipate) and then paint.
one of the most rewarding feelings you can get on this earth is getting complimented on a paint job you did on the bike you are riding,...and one of the worst feelings, is having to make excuses for why "it looks funny in places" when people ask
most just lie: "oh I bought it like this, man, I can't wait to get it re-painted" :D
keep asking questions in this thread, and I'll keep posting information, that way we'll get a nice bulk of info all in one place
peace, love and isocyanates
Wow, reckon that's probably one of the best short faq's i've read on painting ever!
Maybe some day i'll invest in all the proper painting gear and chemicals, but for now with this project i'll try the rustoleum treatment and see how that turns out. I like the element of control that method reads like.
even if your using rattle can paints SHOOT A TEST PANEL FIRST
just so you see what it's going to look like
Quite often when recon throws in his 2cents worth, I copy it and put in my vision notebook. ;D
Quote from: reckon on May 05, 2007, 06:42:03 PM
even if your using rattle can paints SHOOT A TEST PANEL FIRST
just so you see what it's going to look like
Aye yea, i plan on test paneling my tool box :D
It's actually rustoleum that comes in a can. The idea is that you thin it enough so it self levels, sand between coats, and top off with a good polish, no clear coating or anything. Waxable, strong, flexible good looking paint job.
I got all my supplies together:
Paint stirring sticks (dont shake enamel! bubbles!)
Mixing containers (49 cents each, measurements in metric and standard!)
Foam brushes (uh, foam brushes, what more can i say)
Rustoleum paint, quart (hunter green, real dark green should look fantastic)
Mineral spirits (thin the paint down quite a bit, lists acetone as a thinner but apparently it flashes way too fast)
I've gone ahead and started painting the left side cover. Observations:
The paint needs to be quite thin to go on. Think water viscosity, but a VERY tiny bit more goopy
It runs, very easily, you'll need super super super thin coats (to the point that it looks more like tint or stain than paint)
Make sure you get all the old paint off, or at least all the old shiny paint off, this paint pulls away pretty easily
Dries fairly quickly, dry to the touch in approximately 5 hours
What i've done so far:
Sanded off the original paint, not completely though so my test coat pulled away from the shiny spots. Also the paint was way too thick the first time on, never totally evened out and left brush strokes.
Sanded off my first coat, thinned the paint WAY out (water basically). This coat went on much much easier, got a bit messy though before i realized how little paint you actually need.
400 grit wet sanded the first coat. This was a bit spooky, i sanded right through some spots to the original plastic without even trying. Decided to go on ahead with it anyway. Piece feels VERY smooth to the touch, but looks kinda splotchy and feathered.
Second coat goes on without a hitch.
600 grit wet sanded the second coat (note im only using one coat per step to save time, hasnt hurt me yet but really you should have 2 coats per step) again pretty spooky, looks splotchy as all hell, but its SMOOOOOOTH to the touch and reflects light rather well.
Third and final coat goes on without a hitch (had to add a bit of thinner though, paint got a little thick)
This first coat in the final step looks fantastic, its not quite the quality i'm looking for yet, but this could pass as a good rattlecan job no problem.
(http://i8.tinypic.com/4r7207m.jpg)
I've made it to the final coats. I've decided to do two coats before wet sanding with the 1500, and polishing as this'll give me more paint to work with should something go awry.
Nice Job inanecathode, keep the updates coming on how it goes. I read that article some time ago on the charger paint job with a roller and going to do my bike with it next summer when I get a chance to work on it. It has to look better than it does now and I'll have time but not the money for a nice job.
Had some experience with rattle can paint,try finishing your project off with Min Wax clear gloss polyurethane. Only draw backs are it,s slow drying and not really clear,has a slight amber tint, should not be a problem with darker colors,three coats 2hrs between,let it cure for about 72 hrs and should not have to be polished and tough as iron
Just one question.... why didn't you mask off the lower part of the panel? I have seen this on a few Visions in the gallery.
When I re-painted mine, I did not find it difficult to mask the bottom part off to keep it looking kind of "stock"
(http://home.comcast.net/~slapshot1342/RightSideCover.jpg)
My rattle can job above. A little of 1000 grit sand paper took care of the leaks where the masking tape was pulled off ;D
~John
I'm glad you've asked that sable!
I didnt mask off the bottom part because of a few reasons. First, the paint that was on there was really faded and downright ugly, so i sanded it off as well. Second, the paint i'm applying now should make a righteous primer for rattle can flat black. Third, is if i painted the lower part first, no doubt the (very thin) brush on paint would have ruined it 4 coats ago :D
If you are planning to re-paint the bottom portion, you should check into the rustolieum plastic specific paint. I have used this to re-paint the rear fender, the battery box and the bottom portion of this panel. I first learned about this when I saw a guy using that paint to re-paint the fender flairs on an old Jeep Wrangler. They came out looking like new (the one flair that he still had left to do was faded and gray).
Good luck with your painting, I like the color you picked ;D
~John
I actually do have already (for some reason, dont remember buying it) rustoleum plastic paint, ultra flat black.
I'm off to polishing today to see how shiny i can get this guy. The fairing pieces are in the shop getting bead blasted (40 bucks for the whole set). My left side cover just got here so that and the rest of the plastics (left side skinny piece is on the way) get sanded and painted today.
Inane - do you have the pics of your work with you? I am at work and for some reason all I see are little tiny boxes with red X's in them. I am really interested in seeing your progress as I might be trying this in the next week or so.
I'f you do have the pics then please send them to my email from my profile, if not then I'll try and remember to check the thread out when I get home. Thanks.
Are you using the STOPRUST brand of the Rustoleum paint? I was at HomeDepot last night getting new puller bolts and swung by the paint department and that was what the enamel paint was called. They do have a nice navy blue color that I think would be a close match to the color scheme that I want to do. Just need to find a good silver to go with it.
My dad took our camera on a fishing trip, so i'll be minus a camera when i get to the cool part, wet sanding of the flat black bottom piece.
I finished with the buffing today, and outside of a glob of wax and a bit of elbow polish, and the drying of the black part, i'm done!
I must say, it looks fan-diddly-tastic, dad says 'looks like stock'. Totally smooth to the touch, even, and shiny! Wish i had a camera with me :(
The paint i've used is "Rustoleum: Stops Rust, Protective enamel" in the quart size, not the professional or the painters touch kind.
Aw crap, i lost my freakin Yamaha emblem >=(
Quote from: inanecathode on May 17, 2007, 09:57:33 PM
Aw crap, i lost my freakin Yamaha emblem >=(
Where?????
Quote from: DaveTN on May 17, 2007, 11:19:39 PM
Quote from: inanecathode on May 17, 2007, 09:57:33 PM
Aw crap, i lost my freakin Yamaha emblem >=(
Where?????
Lol if i knew it wouldnt be lost would it :P
Probably gonna look around tomorrow for it.
Black paint is dried. Looks. AWESOME! Im going to see if a bit of wet sanding doesnt even out the flatness a bit.
Quote from: inanecathode on May 17, 2007, 09:57:10 PM
The paint i've used is "Rustoleum: Stops Rust, Protective enamel" in the quart size, not the professional or the painters touch kind.
Paint looks awesome. I'll definetly be painting the bike with this stuff. Hopefully they still have the navy blue color in a few days (only one can left when I stopped over last night). Now that the flywheel is off my bike I should have the starter clutch fixed by the end of the weekend, so I can move on to cleaning the carbs, getting her running, and getting her some new paint.
;D ;D ;D ;D
Keep us updated on the progress. Don't skimp on the pics.
Trick is to get it thin enough to self level. I wouldnt worry about runs, if it runs you're putting on too much. Good weather/heated garage (ventilated people ::)) and this stuff dries very quickly, 4 hours there abouts.
Quote from: dj on May 17, 2007, 11:41:01 PM
Quote from: inanecathode on May 17, 2007, 09:57:10 PM
The paint i've used is "Rustoleum: Stops Rust, Protective enamel" in the quart size, not the professional or the painters touch kind.
Paint looks awesome. I'll definetly be painting the bike with this stuff. Hopefully they still have the navy blue color in a few days (only one can left when I stopped over last night). Now that the flywheel is off my bike I should have the starter clutch fixed by the end of the weekend, so I can move on to cleaning the carbs, getting her running, and getting her some new paint.
;D ;D ;D ;D
Keep us updated on the progress. Don't skimp on the pics.
I can see painting advice is a waste of time here,....why not just dip the entire bike in rust-o-leum??
Quote from: reckon on May 18, 2007, 12:53:20 AM
Quote from: dj on May 17, 2007, 11:41:01 PM
Quote from: inanecathode on May 17, 2007, 09:57:10 PM
The paint i've used is "Rustoleum: Stops Rust, Protective enamel" in the quart size, not the professional or the painters touch kind.
Paint looks awesome. I'll definetly be painting the bike with this stuff. Hopefully they still have the navy blue color in a few days (only one can left when I stopped over last night). Now that the flywheel is off my bike I should have the starter clutch fixed by the end of the weekend, so I can move on to cleaning the carbs, getting her running, and getting her some new paint.
;D ;D ;D ;D
Keep us updated on the progress. Don't skimp on the pics.
I can see painting advice is a waste of time here,....why not just dip the entire bike in rust-o-leum??
I did a test panel just like you told me to?
Aww Recon, it's ok buddy, let the kids have their fun, lol
;)
Quote from: Lucky on May 18, 2007, 01:11:33 AM
Aww Recon, it's ok buddy, let the kids have their fun, lol
;)
:'( (sniff)
Quote from: reckon on May 18, 2007, 07:05:38 AM
Quote from: Lucky on May 18, 2007, 01:11:33 AM
Aww Recon, it's ok buddy, let the kids have their fun, lol
;)
:'( (sniff)
What's the matter Reckon? Don't like the paint job results? ??? ??? ???
no the results were ok,...it's just that IF you are going through all the trouble of sanding and prepping, you might as well spend a little more coin, and get some catylized 2 component paint that will LAST.
I can promise you that rust-o-leum wont look as good as it does now in 3 months,...and then your painting it all over again, or riding a bike that looks like it needs a paintjob,...except YOU JUST PAINTED IT!
see?
be super careful with the gasoline fill ups for a couple of months, until that rust-o-leum has had a chance to fully cure, or your hard work will be running down the gas station drain.
you can't do THIS with rust-o-leum:
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a229/jab3rw0x/DucatiMonster-inkblacksmall.jpg)
Quote from: reckon on May 18, 2007, 06:36:13 PM
no the results were ok,...it's just that IF you are going through all the trouble of sanding and prepping, you might as well spend a little more coin, and get some catylized 2 component paint that will LAST.
I can promise you that rust-o-leum wont look as good as it does now in 3 months,...and then your painting it all over again, or riding a bike that looks like it needs a paintjob,...except YOU JUST PAINTED IT!
see?
be super careful with the gasoline fill ups for a couple of months, until that rust-o-leum has had a chance to fully cure, or your hard work will be running down the gas station drain.
you can't do THIS with rust-o-leum:
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a229/jab3rw0x/DucatiMonster-inkblacksmall.jpg)
is that a scratch i see in the top.
just kidding. ill pay for the gas, beer, food, couch rental, and supplies. if you come to my house and paint both my bikes to look like that. i dont even care what color it is. it could be pink and would still look awsome with a shine like that.
Reckon, great job on that tank. You know you were just showing off by posting that pic. ;) ;D ;D
Now we know what reckon looks like...... an Oompaloompah! ;D ;D ;D
Thats a seriously good looking shine. I second what ps2 said about getting you to do his bikes except for two things. 1. I have only one bike to paint (unless Lucky wants his done, then two) and 2. I'll throw in some of my super duper world famous best burgers you ever had burgers. ;D
David
Quote from: reckon on May 18, 2007, 06:36:13 PM
no the results were ok,...it's just that IF you are going through all the trouble of sanding and prepping, you might as well spend a little more coin, and get some catylized 2 component paint that will LAST.
I can promise you that rust-o-leum wont look as good as it does now in 3 months,...and then your painting it all over again, or riding a bike that looks like it needs a paintjob,...except YOU JUST PAINTED IT!
see?
be super careful with the gasoline fill ups for a couple of months, until that rust-o-leum has had a chance to fully cure, or your hard work will be running down the gas station drain.
you can't do THIS with rust-o-leum:
I dunno about the lastability. The guy who started the rustoleum automotive paint painted his charger 2 years ago and it still looks good. I'll see how the piece turns out after i wax it.
Really i don't know much about the rustoleum, the whole point of me trying to do my V with it is to experiment with something noones tried before, and to save money. I'm sure there was someone that used catalysed 2 part paint when people said it wasnt a good idea, right? :D:D:D:D
ok everybody, SHHH!! I have to wisper so Recon doesn't see....I am kidnaping him, we will make him paint all our bikes...
it's a simple trick,......I shoot everything black,...sealer, primer, basecoat,...and then I add some dark grey candy over the base (looks like a smoke tinted sunglass lens) shoot a couple of coats of that, then two coats of clear, let cure and sand flatter than wyoming with 800 grit (wet), then I shoot four more coats of clear, and sand and polish,........
that whole job was shot with PPG's bargain line "OMNI", the materials for that tank were about $70 total, and it could be less if you skip the candy grey coat (which is actually a tint you add to an intercoat clear)
I call that color "event horizon black", because it looks like looking into space at night.
thanks for the compliments, and yes, I was showing off, but I really just wanted to show what can be done with a little patience, and really, very little practice, and some cheap paint.
Acually.... Wyoming has terrain.... think Yellowstone... so.... more like Nebraska or Kansas.I know you don't get out of the chocolate factory much ;D :D ;D :D....but I would still love to have you paint my bike.......and my truck....and my other truck.....and my car......and my lawn mower....and my...well you get the idea.
Any more pics of your progress?
Aye no pics still, dad still has camera...
I've now got a roof over my work area, i was able to convince my former boss to let me use the (empty) body shop behind the shop i used to work at. I've got access to more sandpaper i'll ever need, compressed air, the works. Sucks i'm using brush on paint though :o!
Ever have one of those "I wish i wish i hadn't have done that" moments? That was right about when i got the pieces back from the stripper. Word to the wise: If your paint job is smooth, just rough it up to give your paint some teeth, don't EVER under ANY circumstances strip it down to the gel coat. That gel coat is THE bubbliest, easiest to crack, hard to sand, bumpy, evil substance ever devised by man. I got the pieces back and the surface resembles a cut sponge, just holes and holes and pits and pits, plus this fairing apparently got pretty beat up in places, theres canyon wide stress fractures in the gel coat (fiberglass looks fine suprisingly) spidering out from many places.
I spent nearly all day filling in the pits, holes, and cracks. I'm fairly sure i got them all, also i'm fairly sure the resulting finish should hold up pretty good, here's crossing fingers right?
All the pieces are bondoed, sanded, and ready for painting. All i need to do is tape off the vent thats still attached to one side, remove the rest of the screws that hold the windscreen on, and hose the parts down good and clean all the sanding dust off. I also need to throw some wax on the finished piece i have and see if it'll shine up a bit better, the shine isnt as deep as i'd like it to be (not nearly as deep as event horizon :o:o!)
Observations:
Bondo smells really. really. really bad.
I could write a page and a half on how to use bondo right
Don't freakin strip fiberglass parts down that far, you'll make a WORLD of work for yourself
I'm kinda worried about the finishing job i did on the pieces, its *very* slightly wavy in places
I'm not really happy with myself at this point, should have listened to you guys/myself and just roughed up the paint
Question for the experienced:
Will putting the buffer and polishing compound on the finished piece more increase the shine anymore than it is (sorry about the lack of pictures at this point) or am i just chasing my tail. Also, i'm worried i'll burn through the paint if i polish it too much, is there a chace of this happening if i polish anymore?
One learns best by doing. In creating more work for yourself, you have acquired the rudimentary new body work skills. wouldn't necessarily say the time was wasted, just that you could have been prepping & painting instead of sanding & filling today. There are better brands of filler than Bondo available. If you followed the directions closely, & you didn't have to lay it on very thick, it should work OK. Reckon may chime in about what to use.
I just wish I could get a dry day or two while I'm home to paint the pumpkin! I have to paint outdoors (in an area well screened from breezes). I leave for race weekends on Thursdays, return late on Sundays. Monday - Wednesday are all afternoon storms while Thursday - Sunday have been beautiful. ::) This weekend is the last one I'll be gone before the 25 year party, so I should be able to find time in the upcoming 3 weeks before that starts.
H2O
Find time fooooor?
I dunno, maybe its the bondo fumes getting to me, but i'm pretty bummed about my progress, it's been kind of a one step forward two step back, and i'm worried i'll end up with a crappy looking paint job anyway after all this hard work.
However this one turns out, you can always do more work on it, fix the mistakes & do it right later, when you have more experience and access to more tools / compressor, etc. The important thing is that you are trying & learning. It will probably turn out OK for now - it will always look worse to you than it will to anybody else.
H2O
Lol thats true
Apparently according to the internets, noone has ever stripped a fairing down this far and repainted it from the fiberglass up. I'm a revolutionary!
Reading through various google results, its pretty hilarious how helpless some people are when their fairing gets chipped or scratched, specially some of the super bike people, selling the entire fairing and buying a new one being a pretty common solution.
Got my first coat on all the pieces. I REALLY wish i had a camera, document the process a bit better. Alot of this requires knowing what to look for, its kinda hard to describe how it's supposed to go on, but suffice to say your first couple coats look like CRAP going on, streaky, brush marks, and it doesnt actually cover what you're painting, more tint, the more coats you get the better it looks. Anyway, observations:
Looks like CRAP at the moment, all the body work colors showing through
Try spinning a wet fairing upper above your head trying to get that one spot
Something about the paint/elven magic that's on the cover i got from lou doesnt like paint sticking to it
This stuff is SO easy to work with
On the lowers, i only had to lightly load the brush once and it lasted the whole coverage
Laquer thinner removes the glue that holds the foam on foam brushes, food for thought
Pictures soon i promise!
Quote from: inanecathode on May 22, 2007, 12:02:00 PM
Pictures soon i promise!
We will have to get together and hang you up by your toes if you don't start showing us your progress! ;D
Uhg i know, i'm really bummed i dont have the pictures of how crappy this fairing looked stripped. Honestly, it looked like trash. I'll be able to take a picture of what the pieces look like with one coat dried on them, and what the plastic part looks like with the first sanding stage done, and one coat dried. I can also take a picture of the frame straightener i work next to, big as a damn bus i swear.
tattooedtaz6 painted my monster bits for me and did a fantastic job. Might be worth emailing him and see what he wants to do it.
(http://www.m900.net/images/P/Motorcycles/Monster/IMG_4869_1.JPG)
Incedently, this is what can be done with rattle can. Ofcourse, hot day, plus tank bag and a few refules = trashed. I then went to a dupont base / clear. The base is easy to put on, it's the clear that screws me every time. By the time you are done adding up the materials and possible time reduing and fixing, almost worth paying someone to do it.
(http://www.m900.net/images/P/Motorcycles/Monster/gmon%20(1).jpg)
If I were you, I'd hit all the mechanical bits on the thing and get it running to a point that you are satisfied with it's performance. That may make the decision of having it painted easier if it's running well.
inanecathode:
I sent you an e-mail
Pictuuuuuures!
Fairing after 2 coats and 400g wet sand, but before coat of paint:
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/beforecoat.jpg)
Fairing after 2 coats and 400g wet sand and one coat of paint:
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/aftercoat.jpg)
Side cover after 2 coats 400g wet sand, 2 coats and 800g wet sand, but before coat of paint:
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/beforecoatplastic.jpg)
Side cover after 2 coats 400g wet sand, 2 coats and 800g wet sand, and one coat of paint:
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/aftercoatplastic.jpg)
Hopefully all the yellow underplastic will come out, but see how it doesnt cover fully, just a heavy tint:
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/tinting.jpg)
Hopefully this link works, video of the consistency of the paint you're looking for:
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/th_consistency.jpg) (http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/?action=view¤t=consistency.flv)
Last but not least, mister helper dog:
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/helper.jpg)
I love Cattledogs! Arent they the greatest. ;D
David
When they're not being evil :D
I still like the color! Looks good so far, the fairing looks like it's got an "orange peel" texture to it... What do you plan on doing with the frame and the rest of the bike?
~John
Aye, the dreaded orange peel. It's hard to describe what the texture actually is like without being there, but it DOES look orange pealed, but its due to the undercoat sanding through in some places, not in others, so the orange peely look isnt actually textured, its how the undercoat gloss versus the actual paint gloss interact. Get me?
For the frame i'm going to just clean off the rusty places real good with a wire wheel, and brush on some rust prohibitive paint (black of course) The drive shaft needs a bit of lovin too, starting to rust pretty bad in some places.
Quote from: inanecathode on May 25, 2007, 05:16:01 PM
Aye, the dreaded orange peel. It's hard to describe what the texture actually is like without being there, but it DOES look orange pealed, but its due to the undercoat sanding through in some places, not in others, so the orange peely look isnt actually textured, its how the undercoat gloss versus the actual paint gloss interact. Get me?
For the frame i'm going to just clean off the rusty places real good with a wire wheel, and brush on some rust prohibitive paint (black of course) The drive shaft needs a bit of lovin too, starting to rust pretty bad in some places.
this is what PRIMER is for,...smoothing out the surface, and HIDING the multi-colored sanded part BEFORE you paint,.......you hit it with a coat, wait ten minutes (use a timer), then repeat until you have 4-5 coats (rattlecan primer), then wait a day, and sand it with 400,...THEN start painting
use red oxide or buff (looks tan) primer for anything red, yellow or white, use grey for every other color except black, and use black primer for black,..that way you HIDE whats underneath, and your topcoats (even rust-o-leum) will cover better, look more even, last longer, yada yada
it also gives the paint a nice smooth PORUS surface to soak into, making for great adhesion, even for just painting a house, or a little red wagon, PRIMER will make a HUGE difference.
Aye, i'd probably use primer next time. Does primer also even out the surface? Or is there a special kind of thick primer?
you will want to use some filler for that. Sort of like mudding a wall. aaahhh it all comes together.
Glazing putty works wonders for small areas to be filled... then any other body type filler for any large dents that cannot be pulled. I have used glazing putty a lot on my tank, worth checking into (it's easier sanding than jb weld)!
~John
Quote from: inanecathode on May 25, 2007, 04:20:31 PM
When they're not being evil :D
One of my calltledogs name is Levi. When he's bad, we rearrange the letters in his name and call him Evil. ;D
Fortunately, hes not bad often.
David
good documentary on your paintjob too.
Gah! I need to get this done, i'm feeling like such a bum. All i've gotten done is that one last coat, work is sucking up all of my time. Tomorrow i'll get the second coat on before the final sand on the plastic, and the 600 sand on the fairing. Still a bit worried the multicolored body work will show through, as well as the edges on the plastics. I'll try, if it turns out to show through, going over the edges with un-thinned paint to see if that sticks alright.
Quote from: inanecathode on May 25, 2007, 09:05:59 PM
Aye, i'd probably use primer next time. Does primer also even out the surface? Or is there a special kind of thick primer?
he's right,..but there are exceptions,.........you can take urethane primer, mix in the hardener, and then just use a small roller and roll it on,....it leaves some texture, but that will set up about 1/16 to 1/8 inch thick depending on how many coats you apply, and that texture will sand out beautifully with 220-320 grit.
glazing putty is GREAT for small pinholes, BUT NEVER, EVER, EVER get the "toothpaste tube" of red oxide NON CATYLIZED putty,...get the newer two component (has a hardener like bondo) glazing putty, with METALGLAZE by evercoat being the best. the red oxide stuff (which is just lacquer primer with no thinner) will melt as soon as you apply the paint coat exposing EVERY pinhole and defect you covered with it.
Alrighty, it's ON like donkeykong this week.
I'm getting all the parts in the sun, and i'm going to speed paint for the day, get as many coats i can on all the parts, wet sanding between them to get the body work covered and even out the rough spots. When they're in the sun the paint dries in 10 minutes (probably not cured, but hard enough to sand)
I know the painting gods are angered by this most likely, but i'm fairly sure if i can get it done this way it'll turn out fine.
Fingers crossed!
Shop is closed today and monday, so i have no access to the parts. So it's work time on the pair of cb's that somehow i ended up responsible for :o
Alright alright...
I've been a bad kid, havent done any painting on the parts recently. Hopefully the downtime incurred by the shipment of my new boots plust some nice weather will lead to a bit of work. I'm using the pine trees around my house to hold up my parts whilst i paint them :D
dont know bout by you but it's windy as hell here....hope your booth is there tomorrow
We've had times of strong wing & times of calm tonight. Some gusts were at least 50 MPH. Total calm at the moment.
Supposed to get snow tonight at elevations above 9 or 10 K feet. Not all that common, but not unheard of, either. Saw 2 feet in Steamboat (7,000 ft.) in late June once. That was back in the '70s when we had the coming of the next ice age (argued just as strongly as global warming today). Guess with the new science, a few inches way up high is all we can expect, now. ::)
Hope we have a week of warm weather starting the 17th!!!
H2O
Snow? Geeze. Good thing i work outside today.
Wait, what?
Wear your coat! :D
H2O
ARG! GAH!
I left my coat at kwell's house :/
Ok then!
Had a couple of days recently of really nice weather, so i got all my pieces up and hung in trees to paint. The last two coats of paint i applied did WONDERS to the finish and transparency of the fairing pieces, im thinking this might work out!
Woo! How's that for a hiatus!
I've got the faring pieces up again and another coat of paint on them. I think i'll have to put some coats on with the pieces lying flat, it's awefully streaky with them hanging. Just for giggles i've got a piece out seperate that i shot with some rattlecan clear coat to see how that'd end up. Still drying on that one, but heres how the left side looks now:
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/fiaringpiece.jpg)
are those cannibis sativa plants growing in the background
They're what now?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cannibis
Hey fellows, what's going on? That ride through national park was cool. The lunch stop rocked, did you see those girls planting flowers next to the street in estes park, what a day! And that cross town freeway section was unreal, I wanted to haul ass. Dave SV
Lol i love that road, its like my own private speedway :D
mmmm....bbq
Premium.... everywhere! *twitch*
The more i think about it the more i think its not the paint, its the way i'm painting. I'm putting way too much paint on in a stroke, i need to paint the edges first, very lightly, then very lightly paint the flats. I've tried a natural bristle brush and it's laughably terrible. Also the clear coated piece is the most orange peely work i've ever seen :o 400 grit saves the day!
I'll try one last very light, careful coat after a wet sand tonight. I'm sure if i get it light enough and careful enough it'll look fine. I'm thinking about touching up the edges with straight unthinned paint, the edges dont seem to like the thinned paint that well.
Well, it's not the paint, and its not how i'm painting, i'm totally sure its the substrate. Its just not smooth enough. Its totally wavy, bumpy, full of holes etc. No matter how many coats i put on it it wont turn out right. The fairing pieces are "done" for now until i can figure out how to fix the substrate.
Warning, the proceeding pictures are not for the faint of heart!
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/mainpiece.jpg)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/sidepiece2.jpg)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/sidepiece1.jpg)
Are these the sections you had bead/sand blasted and it removed a lot of the gel coat? As you say the surface looks like it has lots of little imperfections. Trying to paint a race bike fairing years ago I learned that paint doesn't work as a filler like I was hoping and to get the nice mirror type finish the surface needs to be mirror flat first. I feel your frustration, I gave up specially since I crashed that often my bike had more duck tape on it than was room for paint ::).
I've just managed to pick up a bike here in NZ (another 400) with the same full fairing and I want to repaint it in the summer using this roller technique so I follow your posts with interest. Keep up the work on them, you will get it in the end, I think what you might need to do is look at going back to the basics on the surfaces with a thin layer of filler and sanding that back with a block to get the smooth starting surface needed. Orange peel from the paint isn't an issue from what I know it can be sanded back to smooth and when polished comes up great, just takes a while to sand it all back.
I think I followed a link from the original "roll on painting of the charger" posts to a guy that did a bike tank and had some orange peel problems but it came up great in the end. I often wonder how it would work to just roll on the paint in full thinkness then put more elbow grease in sanding it back smooth and polishing it. Maybe doing it in thiner coats allows for a more even coating.
Quote from: inanecathode on July 02, 2007, 12:01:23 AM
Well, it's not the paint, and its not how i'm painting, i'm totally sure its the substrate. Its just not smooth enough. Its totally wavy, bumpy, full of holes etc. No matter how many coats i put on it it wont turn out right. The fairing pieces are "done" for now until i can figure out how to fix the substrate.
Confucius say: a galloping horse will never notice....
NightVision say: looks good from here!
a three or four foot paint job is not a bad thing.
I've heard them called 50 - 50 paint jobs. Looks great from 50 feet @ 50 MPH! ;D
Depending on your hurry to get the fairing mounted, you can either leave it as is & do it later, or like mentioned a couple times before, sand it down, use some filler, sand it again, then prime & paint. Kiwibum is right - paint will not act as a filler. There are filler primers, but they are meant to fill minor scratches & imperfections & do not take the place of filler material.
H2O
I'll have to check out the filler primer then. Theres literally thousands of holes and patches that are just way too rough for regular bondo. Anyone know how fiberglass resin sticks to old fiberglass resin? Thought being if i could just glass in the imperfections with another thick gel coat i can sand that down and paint over that.
as long as it's nice and rough with something to grip to resin should be ok, it takes a bit more work to sand down again I think due to being slightly harder than fillers. Pay to check with someone else on this and knows a bit more but I'm sure their should be a fine based filler (meaning the particles are fine compared to bondo) that you can smear a 0.5-1mm covering over the whole thing then sand that back to cover up all the small problems. It always amazes me how long it takes to get a nice finish and reminds me when I see hot rods etc of the effort gone in to make them look so good, not as easy as most think it is.
Well with the rods is brand new, fresh metal to work with. Not 25 year old mid eighties fiberglass gel coat :D
ha ha, not the ones I see here, they are crafted out of real old cars rather than parts bought from a catalog 8)
Reason 192 why NZ rocks.
Before!
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/primed.jpg)
After!
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f40/inanecathode/shiny.jpg)
(disclaimer: second picture is just water)
Like to chime in with one from the GS Resources:
http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm
Repaint of a Suzuki GS totally by hand and on a shoestring budget...
iron,
i checked out your link,, and i am here to say, that without any doubt, that is the most detailed page i have read on painting a bike on the cheap!!!
after reading that a couple of times now, i think i may just give reckon's black paint job a try ,using less expensive paint products. ( on a spare piece first ) and see if i can make it happen!
also makes me wonder if i can tweak the process a bit and get a fade effect airbrush pinstripe finish like one of the bikes on bilder site too!!
if i remember right, you do the base coat,clear coat, then completely sand it out,then add in the striping work, resand and then begin the rub out . hmmm. experiment time has arrived !
A key note in said link, you need to make sure that the surface is completely smooth BEFORE applying any paint. Any problems in the substrate WILL show through the paint, so it pays to spend extra time working in the subject before rattling any cans. Whatever color that you choose, get what's underneath straight first, don't expect the paint to correct any flaws, but, rather, accentuate.
I have an HVLP gun, have used it to paint household items, but I can tell you that it does no better than the rattle cans if the conditions aren't right. I'm having the frame of my GS750 PCoated, the triple tree plated along with the front fender and some other sundries. The paint of the tank I may do myself, turn it into silver from black like the 1981 GS1100E that a buddy of mine owned...