Oh yes...it's that time. Was making my list of things that I wanted to get done on the non runner...BLACKIE
Here are the things I know I need to do:
POR15 new tank
Fork Oil
Fork Seals
Install NOS taillight
Get new grommits and install plastics
Stator (Tim Parrot)
Starter Clutch
Fuse Box-Best location? Will look through old threads
Tapered Head Bearings(may already be done...will check)
Install New Avons
Install New Seat
Couple questions:
Has anyone used the POR frame paint? Comments?
Tiger, Do you stock the proper bolts for the start clutch job?
Anyone have contact info for Tim Parrot? Gotta get a stator.
Does anyone know where I could get some dust boots to fit the V?
I'm sure there will be similar projects like this going on as well in my area so here's what I was thinking.
A BARN RAISING, so to speak. Maybe some of the CO syndicate might want to come to the garage where I have the bikes and lend a hand. Figure it would be a cool reason to get together. I'd of course provide the beer and lunch.
What you think?
Fantastic idea, mister kwells.
Fuse box- right where the stock one is. I think i have the link floating around somewhere, but theres a 6 blade fuse box i got that fits perfectly where the old one was, even the screw holes.
I used POR paint to paint the entire frame after it's Muriatic acid bath. The frame was not in good shape, but it was titled so I had no choice.
Couple of observations:
POR is not UV friendly so you have to top coat it with something else.
The POR paint is flexible enough so it doesn't crack. (ie: those wire holding tangs that you rebend)
Open a can and you have to use it all, can't put top back on and reopen. but it does come in six packs of small cans too. But you probably only need three or four little cans. Have other things that could use POR readied to cut down on waste.
POR will "weld" rusty hardware together, but if you don't leave the bolts in the holes, you'll probably end up having to tap them out. I used old hardware that I wasn't planning on reusing.
POR paint can be brushed on, or thinned with their "$pecial thinner" and sprayed on. Too bad it doesn't come in a rattle can because I do have some visible brush marks.
Harbor Freight cheap disposable paint brushes are just that.. They lose bristles that you'll end up picking out...
When it's all said and done.... there's really very little of the frame exposed. It was a lot of work, but since I'm doing a ground up, I'd probably do it again.
well I dont need it to look perfect but I saw they had that product...may just rattle can it after getting the rust wire wheeled off.POR paint doesnt seem to be cheap..I do like their tank liner though
..swing arm is going black as well but may have to do the painting in stages.
Have access to a fully stocked garage and may see if I can get my hands on a decent sprayer instead of rattlecan
You think the POR paint would hold up on wheels?
yeah, I think it would hold up well, but would still need top coating...
I used duplicolor metal etching primer on my wheels before painting them all black with semi flat Krylon Rust Tough enamel...
they look great, but did lose some paint on the edges when the tires were mounted... just touched a couple of areas up.
A winter COROV get-together would be great! I've got some things going between now & the end of January -- getting the Formula Mazda set up for the upcoming season which begins in late January at Phoenix International Raceway. ;D We got a good start on it a couple days ago. Now waiting for a few things to arrive in the mail.
As you may recall, he totalled his original car last summer at Road America. He got a replacement last fall and we are in the process of swapping the still usable good bits from his old car to the new one, including the MOTEC data acquisition system, the entire electrical system, the aluminum seat pan & bottom plate (replacing the heavier stainless parts), then adjusting the pedals, swapping the better fire bottle, installing new safety restraints, replacing all the user accessible gaskets (the engine is sealed by the builder by formula rules) and installing a two way radio communication system. Quite a bit of work, but we got it all taken apart and are well down the install / reinstall road at this point.
Let me know when you want to do the projects. Maybe I can get the parts from Professor Rex to get Trctor road ready while I'm down that direction.
I have a decent HVLP sprayer & compressor if necessary, but I'd vote for warmer weather for the painting.
H2O
that does sound like alot of work. The garage I'm in is heated so winter wouldn't affect the spraying..would need venting of course, but would be limited to frame and wheels if that. Just thinking out loud how it would work....
Was hoping to get some days in sometime in Jan but we could work the group days in Feb too. Talk to Rex and see if he has ur parts and we can get urs put together too.
I've also got parts bike that needs to be stripped, iirc h20 i think thats your frame.
Kwells, George Young has the info on fork boots to fit a vision, His has them. I believe theres some Honda and Suzuki parts involved.
Quote from: kwells on December 28, 2007, 07:31:49 PM
Couple questions:
...Tiger, Do you stock the proper bolts for the start clutch job?
...Anyone have contact info for Tim Parrot? Gotta get a stator.
Sorry KW but I don't stock them...and I know this goes against the grain...but I use the stock size, with RED loctite, torqued down and the exposed thread end punched in a triangular setting .
. .
The Tim Parrot info' you need... tim@tpe-usa.com He is slow to reply ::) ;D :D :D :D :D :D
Re: The fuse's... I use 5 single, in-line, ATO Blade fuse holder's, with a cap to cover the fuse, 4 x under the seat and 1 x in the headlight bucket...velcro tab's help to hold them in place ;)
8).......TIGER....... 8)
I've tried to contact Tim Parrott three different times. He NEVER replied! It cost him a sale. He was fast shipping my stator when I bought it through eBay, though. Never left me any feedback, though.
H2O