Hello to all, Found this site as I was looking for information on a '82 Vision, Prior to purchasing it. I want to say thank you to all of you for your great information and willingness to share it. It help me make a very informed decision toward its purchase. As to what to look for and some of the quirks to expect. I was pleasantly surprised to find most of the major problem mentioned taken care of by the former owners (me being the third of this machine). Even though When I got it home with no key (had to have one made) and after sitting for over a year. 5 hours on a charger and she fired right up. I am a very happy man.
Again thanks for the info, and keep up the good work.
I do have one Question though; What is the YICS for and is it good/ alright to have it OFF the bike? The one for this bike is off at this currant time. From reading It seems to have something to do with the Idle, but My Bike ;D seems to be Idling fine.
Any info or comments and or experiences would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Again,
Skip
I have taken mine off and it runs dandy. I didn't notice it run any better or worse with it on. If it leaks either fix it or yank it off.
:) Hi and welcome to our world and your new family... 8) You will find that, as with all things Vision, the only thing we will all agree about is that the VISION is a great bike...Re the YICs (YIKES!!!) unit, The "V" will run well without it, providing the two head ports are sealed... 8)
Where are you located, we may have a member close by you...
8).......TIGER....... 8)
Thanks for the information,
it is just as I expected, seems the former owners did all the hard stuff for me. But who knows?!?
I Live in A Little Town in Washington State called Orting, it would be great to have someone that knows about the bike to live close.
Thanks
Skip
As always there are two opinions on the YIKS box , some feel it is no improvement at all and some feel that it improves performance , especiallay at low rpm. As they say "your mileage may vary" . Mine is repaired and reinstalled , so I'm in the second group.
Well, I'll put in my $.02 in on the topic of the YICS. I've run my black 82 with and with out the YICS. With my particular bike I did notice that the idle was more stable with it on during the colder parts of the year. But during the hotter parts of the year I noticed no difference with or without it. In my case I have the YICS on because it isn't leaking and it was designed to have it, but if it starts leaking I'll cap off the ports and run it like that until I can get the YICS resealed.
I like to keep my bikes as stock as possible, unless there is a known design flaw and then I'll make a change to it. I figure that the designers no more about bikes then I do, so for the most part I trust that they have already set the bike up properly. Not always a safe assumption, but for the most part with my bikes I've noticed that it is true.
Welcome. There's 1 of us in Bellingham, a couple in Seattle. I know several visions have come up for sale recently on Craigslist, but I don't think their owners have been posting here. Did you get the one that was for sale in Snohomish?
I did get my bike from Craigslist the one that was in West Seattle. What a fortunate find for me, Because I also have a older ('94) Land Rover and it is costing me an arm and leg to keep fuel in the Beast :( And seeing as how the weather is changing for us here and I am relatively new to the state, I have a lot of exploring to do.
One more question; What would anyone recommend that I do as far as a basic service to the bike. I am planning to spend the day changing the oil, plugs, and such. Any other things that I should do?
How many miles on the bike? How long a time is your longest ride? How is it running? Do the oil and filter change. Hold off on the plugs until the bike tells you it needs them. Vs' are very easy on plugs and the front one is a PITA to change.
Unrelated, but good to know: the height of the shift lever is adjustable. If its' current adjustment isn't comfortable for you, change it. Note: One of the two linkage lock nuts is reverse threaded(don't remember which one) so be careful there.
The height of the rear brake lever is also adjustable.
The odometer says only 7223 miles. I haven't ridden it yet, Just got the key made yesterday and wanted to make sure that I had her running before I got tags and plates. Thats tomorrow:)
So just do the oil and filter for now, even though she sat for a year? This is sounding better and better to me; seeing as how I only paid $350.00 for her. and $80.00 to get it re-keyed.
Do you know if the oil seal in the starter motor has been updated to the spring lip design? Find out if you can. If you can't find out , plan on doing that update. Low cost and relatively easy. Factory seals usually go out after 10k and take the motor brushes with them. The update is permanent.
Same questions regarding starter clutch. Reattachment will be needed by about 25k miles. Low cost and doable, but not fun. Again the update is permanent.
No Vs' escape these factory defects. The longer they are put off, the more they cost in the end.
I'd recommend bleeding the brakes to get all the old, waterlogged fluid out. Plan on upgrading to a braided stainless line in the near future. A 25 year old brake line can be a safety hazard.
An inexpensive bit of maintenance is to replace the plug wires & caps. Nice to know they're new & will give you many years of service.
H2O
Do you guys know that DOT 4 is much less hygroscopic than DOT 3 & compatible with Dot 3? there's no reason to use DOT 3 anymore. DOT 5 should only be used on a completely fresh brake system (no old rubber)
I havent seen any literature on dot 4 specifically regarding its hygroscopic nature in comparison to dot 3. They're both glycol based, so they're both fundamentally hygroscopic, im not sure that can be overcome by additive packages or not. Dot 4 is also more expensive, and in fact its actually hard to find as pure dot 4, most the time its mixed with dot 3 or advertised as 'dot 3&4'.
If you want to get really fancy, you could get dot 5.1 :)
any auto parts store carries DOT 4. all brake flud has to meet strict DOT standards, i've never seen it mixed with DOT3. more expensive? a few dollars, big deal.. i'll spend a few more bucks on my brakes...
You do buy genuine yamaha oil too dont you? ;) :D
I went to look at that bike last week and I think you got a good one. Very clean looking, and all there, good tires, and no sign of rust on the tank. Did he find the key?.
When I saw it there was an oil drip under the starter and it looked to me like it was coming out where the starter mounts into the left side case. Although it sounds like the starter worked for you, between the observations of oil drips an the way the PO described his starting problems, I'd say work on the starter while you have the oil drained.
I guess I should do the same, as I have the side cover off to do the starter clutch bolts.
I used Yamalube exclusively until I discovered the shifting benefits of synthetic oils. Made the switch to synth @ about 5,000 miles.
As for brake fluid, I went with DOT4 when I did the dual disc & braided stainless upgrade a couple years ago. The fluid is still very clear. The small bottle of Bel-Ray DOT4 was about $6 at the time. I agree with Lucky - don't be afraid to spend a couple bucks extra when doing brakes.
H2O
this article will answer all ur questions regarding brake fluids
the DOT rating simply quickly lets you know the Minimum boiling temp of the wet/dry fluid
bottom line is...DOT 3 is perfectly acceptable for 95% of all drivers. DOT 4 has a higher boil temp but when it starts to degrade, it degrades much quicker than DOT 3. Either way, if you don't go to a track then DOT 4 or 5.1 is not necessary. It is sort of like the different grades of gas at the pump. Most vehicles run fine on regular.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml