Recent Posts

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91
TechTalk / Zero compression front
« Last post by Rick on July 15, 2021, 03:03:16 PM »
Hey All I have '82 with 70K miles.  After sitting for a few years got it up and running.  1st ride about 5 miles motor started making knock from front head area.  Zero compression from front great compression rear. IDEAS?!?!?!
92
TechTalk / Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Last post by pinholenz on July 15, 2021, 07:21:05 AM »
Thanks POD.  I like the LED unit too. Both fuse boxes are less than NZ$25 and available locally

To summarise, you suggest

1. Use an inline 30 amp fuse holder for the Main fuse
2. Bundle all the Red switched wires (that should be brown) and connect them to the common bus
3. Use seperate fuses feeding to out to the Headlight, Signal and Ignition wires

The final choice of fuse box will depend on the seat clearance since I would hope not to relocate the box elsewhere.

POD, I think I saw you write that "crimped joints are the spawn of the devil", but it looks like Kevin G reckons that they are a godsend. Hmm. Decisions, decisions.
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TechTalk / Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Last post by Prophet Of Doom on July 15, 2021, 06:20:38 AM »
is there any problem with me blanking off the supply side to the rest of the fused circuits? I think that the advantage of the  common supply is that it would allow me to use the spare fuses to add another circuit for lighting or GPS.

Does that make sense? Thanks

The LED one is quite a nifty unit.  I'd go for that one.

You can have a common supply for the 10A fuses - they are all tied together anyway in the loom, but they are all switched - they are fed from the far side of the ignition switch off the brown wire.  The wires going into the 10A fuses are red, but they ought to be brown to avoid confusion.
The 30 Amp fuse on the other hand comes straight off the battery.  It's unswitched and the far side of that fuse feeds the ignition switch, the fan and parking lights.

If you tie them all together (ie all fuses including 30A off a common live wire) then the ignition switch would be bypassed and the bike would never turn off.  A separate in-line 30A fuse holder between the battery and the ignition switch would do the trick.

R
94
General Board / Trying out spray gun painting
« Last post by MoVision on July 15, 2021, 06:02:31 AM »
Hi all, I have been debating vinyl vs paint for a while now and come to a decision for paint. Have a 26 gallon compressor so why not? I am sticking close to the manufacturer red from House of Kolor Shimrin2 line up. Base coat is Solar Flair Red Metallic which is much like a matte red with metallic flakes. Candy coat is Apple Metajuls Red L4, which is a light cherry red until light hits it making it hit as a superman bright red. Having only the right under seat rail to give comparison, this combo looked fantastic. Also got the clear coat, a quart with activator. The base and candy coats share a slow reducer which the guy was very cool about explaining it all. Not to mention the price wasn’t bad compared to vinyl. Vinyl for just the tank was going to run $150 shipped. Now the plastics as well as the tank will match in the same $65 dollar difference. Sanding starts tomorrow for the plastics. Giving the rank one last go as well.
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TechTalk / Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Last post by kevin g on July 14, 2021, 08:49:27 PM »
I don't quite understand what "blanking off the supply side" means.  Do you mean just leave the unused circuits with nothing on them?  If so, there is no problem if you do not put a fuse in the unused circuit, it will not be energized.

One thing to watch for is the height of the fuse block you use because there is not much clearance under the seat.  I used modular blade fuse holders from Littlefuse but they do not have a common bus.

Another thing, it is far better to use crimp connections than soldering the wires.  The solder wicks a long way up the and then it is not flexible and can break over time.
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The Swap Shop / Re: Getting old
« Last post by shep1 on July 14, 2021, 08:06:04 PM »
Hi.Sorry for not replying as I had issues getting on site as well as bi-lateral hip replacement recently.Still recovering.I still have all the vision parts but want them all sold together as I do not have the time to separate them all. Truck load of parts from both 82/83. I hope I can get back on site after I log out for replies. Thanx
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TechTalk / Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Last post by pinholenz on July 14, 2021, 07:23:53 AM »
I am thinking of replacing my OEM fuse box with a box that takes ATC fuses.

There are two sorts

One is almost a straight replacement where each fuse sits inline with the existing circuits. (Two solder joints for each circuit)

The other has a common bus  power supply to each fuse, then a single solder point to  the demand side of the circuit. A nifty LED comes on to indicate which fuse is the faulty one.

If I use the unit with the common supply unit with the main fuse feed connected to the bus bar and then supply the main circuit via the 30 Amp fuse, is there any problem with me blanking off the supply side to the rest of the fused circuits? I think that the advantage of the  common supply is that it would allow me to use the spare fuses to add another circuit for lighting or GPS.

Does that make sense? Thanks
98
TechTalk / Re: Tarozzi Fork Braces
« Last post by pinholenz on July 14, 2021, 06:46:30 AM »
I agree with POD almost entirely. I got my Tarozzi's whilst in the States from Fast from the Past. Good company to deal with. I will powder coat mine when I am next having stuff done at my local coater. They are a funny dull dark grey colour.

I am not sure what POD means about the dust covers though. I just slid mine up the forks, installed the fork brace around the top of the  fork tubes and then slid the dust covers back in place to rest on the fork brace. No problems. Did I do something wrong?
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TechTalk / Re: Making triple cflamps
« Last post by fret not on July 13, 2021, 10:51:54 PM »
I installed the lower bearing on the stem only to find that a spacer is needed under it, as the bottom of the steering head rubs on the upper surface of the lower triple clamp.   Removing the bearing without destroying it, or marking up the new triple clamp is a chore.  The process is moving along, and I think there is some light ahead.
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TechTalk / Re: Making triple cflamps
« Last post by Prophet Of Doom on July 13, 2021, 04:21:50 AM »
That's a good looking radiator - if anyone knows where to source those bottles then please let me know
The oil filler cap is rather tasty also
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