Kitty’s New Vision

[vadasz1]

what is the torque for the brake bar bolts?  I searched and couldn't find any numbers.  I even looked in the Haynes and Yamaha manuals with no luck.

[fret not]

They shouldn't need much torque, as they are shouldered bolts that depend on the thickness of the shaft to bear the load, not the threaded section.  They are safety locked with a cotter pin.  If they needed lots of torque they would have threads the same size as the shaft.  Just get them good and snug but not over tight and make sure your cotter pin is good.

One thought is that over tightening them could be a cause of them failing. 

[vadasz1]

I don't have the shoulder bolts there.  I have just regular 8.8 grade bolts and a locknut.  The locknut is kind of crappy in the thread and am changing it out with a lockwasher and regular nut.

[fret not]

Like I said, the load is across the bolt, not along it.  As long as it doesn't escape it's load (fall off) you should be good.  Gently snug the bolt to keep it from rattling, and the lock nut should be all you need as long as it stays on.  I like cotter pins or safety wire.  The original design allows for some movement between the brake stay and mount on the swing arm but I don't know if there is any.  It looks like it stays put once the bolts are in place as it is all triangulated between the stay, backing plate, and swing arm.

[YellowJacket!]

Robert,  I'm not sure a regular bolt is the proper application for the brake bar.  The shouldered bolt allows the brake bar to swivel as the swing arm moves up and down but keep tension on its connection to the drum.  I think using a regular bolt and torquing/tightening it may cause the bar to bind.
I have seen others mention that they use a regular bolt with a metal tube the width of the brake bar over the bolt.
Also, I got two sets for me and Lucky at my local stealer for less than 20.00 last year.

David

[Lucky]

IT LIVES!!!

We had problems getting it to crank fast enough to fire, we had the nose of the starter apart to check the seal but didn't check the other end, Tiff replaced it (this before I reread all 13 pages of her posts to see what she had done)  She was still having starter problems after rebuilding it a couple of times, & i found one of the thin bushings for the gear end down between the housing & the magnet, commutator & brushes worn out.  I had a replacement armature & brush plate with plenty of brush left on it, put it together, eyeballed the synq & with a little coaxing it fired up!! yeah!!!

have to pull the carbs again to see why the accel pumps aren't firing, probably just a gunked up check valve.  need to find an overflow bottle & cap, both levers, brake rod bolts,brake pedal spring, one turn signal and probably a few other things....

also she had a problem with the bike losing nuetral. it does that, & i'm thinking bad relay...

more later!

--Lucky

EDIT: i replaced the relay & that MIGHT be it, it seems to be better, only lost neutral initally after changing the relay, but we'll see.  might be a neutral switch.

AK, do you have one off that dead engine?

Anyone know off hand the size of the coolant tube o-rings?

[Tiffanator]

Hey Lucky... and Kitty... was excited to get a text from you guys saying she had fired up! So glad to see she is in good hands, much better than when I had her.

[akvision]

Lucky,
I have some relays... and some of the other stuff.. bottle, cap, signal.. I will look and get back... give me a couple of days.  Been skiing and am buried, am only partly retired.
akV

[Tiger]

IT LIVES!!!
Anyone know off hand the size of the coolant tube o-rings?

:) Congrats... 8)

#12 "O" rings Lucky... ;)

[Lucky]

AK, and anyone else, Relays i'm good on, the other stuff we still need. Also, The diode in the clear plastic cover needs to be replaced, so if someone has a dammaged harness to cut one out of, also i'll need to know which direction it goes, but i could probably figure that out with a meter.

Thanks!

[Lucky]

#12, Thanks, T!