tonight is the night

Started by nvdranger, May 03, 2004, 04:42:09 PM

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nvdranger

May 03, 2004, 04:42:09 PM
The carbs and tank go back on tonight, along with a double check of all hoses to make sure their connected, and I'm gonna push the lil button and hope for the best.  Since she has no been started in soooo long, is there anything "special" I need to do?  (has a brand new fully charged battery if that makes a difference)

I have not changed the starter seal yet, only b/c the provious owner said it was rebuilt and I don't want to waste my time like peten (i think it was pete ???) did.  
I also will need to tighten or replace the starter cluth bolts.  I would like to tighten them for the time being and work the bugs out of the bike then replace them later.  Can I tighten them w/o ripping the flywheel out?  

I wonder if I missed anything?

Ken
'82 Vision project.  First Vision, First Bike.
Sometimes monkeys die, Sometimes monkeys die.  It not a good saying, but its a saying.

Dave T.

#1
May 03, 2004, 05:33:36 PM Last Edit: May 03, 2004, 05:35:50 PM by D.T.
Make sure the accel pump is working and spraying in the right spot, between the body and valve. Give it two twists of raw fuel and choke it. WA-LA, perfect running Vision.

As far as the starter, you can drill a 1/16" weep hole in the bottom of the end cap to see if the seal is letting oil by.

I wouldn't worry about the starter clutch unless you have that noise they have been talking about. I never had it, but I pulled the flywheel off and checked anyway. The bolts weren't very tight.

Turn the pilot screws out 4.5 turns and sync the carbs too. Replace all the vac hoses and make sure your YIKES! doesn't leak. I just took mine off. Too much hassle.  :P
Life is special; and I believe you can overcome it's biggest obstacle, yourself. ;)

QBS

#2
May 03, 2004, 05:55:36 PM
The labor to check the starter clutch bolts for tightness is aprox. 90% the same as doing the complete starter clutch reattachment process.  However, you can see the ends of the bolts in the rotor/flywheel by just removing the engine cover.  If they are peened over then the job may have already have been done.  If the bolt ends are 2 to 3 threads down below the surface, you are probably (98% chance)looking at OEM installation.  Cheers, and good luck on your crank off.

nvdranger

#3
May 05, 2004, 05:00:08 PM
well due to that damn ity bity o-ring I didn't get the carbs on til today.  The carbs, airbox, and tank are back on the bike.
Pardon the stupidity I didn't remember where everything went and the diagram doesn't help - first the hoses I forget to put on while putting the carbs together: on the front upper body right side (as if you were sitting on it) there are two places where hoses should be.  Also the same on the lower body right side one places where a hose should be.  All three are pointing out the right side of the bike.  Then on the lower body of the rear carb their is another one pointing forward.  This one is just behind the fuel pump.  Also the hose off the bottome of the fuel pump.  Nothin is connected to the black and gray thing so that could be part of the problem.  Ok thats it for my stupidity.
Now for the guy that woked on it befor, he ripped a bunch of hoses off and I got most of them figured out.  I still have a few hanging loose.  Each cylinder has a hose off of it, left side on the front and right side on the rear cylinder.  On the rubber boot connecting the rear carb to the rear cylinder there is a hose.  Same situation on the front carb to cylinder boot, but their 2 hoses.  The YICS was not attached to the bike when I got it, so I know some of these have to hook up to that.

I think thats it for dumbarse

Thanks in advance
Ken
'82 Vision project.  First Vision, First Bike.
Sometimes monkeys die, Sometimes monkeys die.  It not a good saying, but its a saying.

wolfman

#4
May 05, 2004, 05:16:03 PM
On the cylinders there are vacuum fittings down low about 3/4 of an inch above where they meet the crankcase.  The one on the rear cylinder attaches to the lower fitting on the YICS canister, the one on the front cylinder attaches to the upper fitting on the YICS canister.  Hope that helps..

h2olawyer

#5
May 05, 2004, 05:23:28 PM
Here's how mine is set up:

Front Carb -
  • Top Toward Center - to small air filter that mounts on right side of carb (black & gray thing?)
Top Toward Right - to airbox flapper
Bottom (Body)Toward Right - to rear carb body
[/list]

Rear Carb Bottom (Body) - to front carb body

Rear intake port - capped off
Front intake port - Right to fuel pump, Left to petcock

Each head has a port for attaching hoses to YICS chamber.

Have you checked out your YICS?  Lucky's site has instructions for checking and repairing it (//www.xz550.com)

Hope this helps!

H2o
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

nvdranger

#6
May 05, 2004, 07:28:12 PM
horray she started right up, but wont stay running at idle.  it will only stay running with the choke on or holding the throttle at about 2 grand.  have any suggestions?

Ken
'82 Vision project.  First Vision, First Bike.
Sometimes monkeys die, Sometimes monkeys die.  It not a good saying, but its a saying.

h2olawyer

#7
May 05, 2004, 07:46:47 PM Last Edit: May 05, 2004, 07:59:12 PM by h2olawyer
IT LIVES - Kind of makes you feel like Dr. Frankenstein doesn't it?

Three things come to mind -

further adjustment of your pilot screws
leaky YICS
carb synch

4.5 turns on the pilots is a great starting point but you need to adjust them to suit your bike and environment. ?Mine are set a bit leaner - don't remember how many turns I use as I check them before disassembly and reset them before installation. ?Mine are leaner most likely due to higher elevation. (5,000 ft.+)

H2o
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

nvdranger

#8
May 05, 2004, 08:00:43 PM
I'm thinking the problem could lie in the YICS.  I'm looking at Lucky's website right now and it says "note w/ 82s only" and talks about removing only the one screw and leaving the two others alone.  Well that one screw holding the cover on is the only one I have.  It looks like something should be connected to the 2 top holes on the back of the YICS, which I assume is where these other 2 screws come into play.  Does this sound right?

Ken
'82 Vision project.  First Vision, First Bike.
Sometimes monkeys die, Sometimes monkeys die.  It not a good saying, but its a saying.

nvdranger

#9
May 05, 2004, 08:06:56 PM Last Edit: May 05, 2004, 08:44:14 PM by nvdranger
yep I dont have those 2 screws and the addition of an internal leaking YICS. ?I'm so close and now have to wait to fix this.

Ken

EDIT: I took a couple screws that fit and sealed up those.  The YICS is still leaking internally and its running really rich.  Still working on the right jet combination as well.  So if anyone has an extra YICS let me know.

'82 Vision project.  First Vision, First Bike.
Sometimes monkeys die, Sometimes monkeys die.  It not a good saying, but its a saying.

h2olawyer

#10
May 05, 2004, 09:11:33 PM
You can repair the YICS - see Lucky's site for that as well.  There are two ways to separate the chamber - one is to give it a good rap with a hammer on one corner.  I used the other - I cut it in half - down the seam - with my band saw, made a gasket, smoothed out ALL edges of the chamber with very fine grit sandpaper - (250) - so it fit tight and put it back together.  I also used a bright light to check if there was any gap between the halves, and I taped the sandpaper to a small sheet of glass to make sure I was getting everything totally flat.  Works great now.  You also need to use some gaskets around the screws that hold everything together.  Even the original factory setup has those gaskets.  They keep the YICS from leaking through the screw holes.

Some people have removed the YICS entirely and capped off the ports in the heads.  I haven't tried it but it could be a way to go until you get yours fixed.

H2o
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

nvdranger

#11
May 05, 2004, 11:11:10 PM
I don't have or know anyone that has a ban saw unfortunetly.  If I can find the YICS for the right $$$ I would rather do that and not waste my time.  However if I'm gonna find one, that hammer thing sounds good.  I've always said don't fix somethin thats not broken, in this case not broken all the way.  So I'm gonna give it a whack (some pun intended :)) tomorrow and see what happens.

I need to synch the carbs still and I assume (but to assume makes an @$$ out of u and me) thats why its running really rich.

Ken

Oh and I sorry where are my manners.  Thank you once again H20 for the help, with those directions the hoses went together very quickly.  I starred at those damn things for at least an hour.  Thank you.
'82 Vision project.  First Vision, First Bike.
Sometimes monkeys die, Sometimes monkeys die.  It not a good saying, but its a saying.

h2olawyer

#12
May 06, 2004, 12:14:10 AM Last Edit: May 06, 2004, 12:22:55 AM by h2olawyer
No thanks necessary - but appreciated! ;D ?Those vacuum hoses can be a bit confusing if you haven't seen where they go before you take it all apart.

Chances are that any used YICS will have the same problem. ? It is as common as dirty carbs, leaky fork seals and fried stators. ?Once you have it separated, it is an easy fix if the gasket you install should ever fail in the future. ?Use hi temp, oil & fuel resistant gasket material. ?After all you've already gone through to get her running, the YICS is a really easy fix. ?If there are any new ones left, Yamaha wants a king's ransom for one! (about $87 from Power Sports Pro)

You don't need a band saw - careful cutting along the seam with a hacksaw, coping saw or other fine tooth, thin blade saw would work as well.

H2o
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

nvdranger

#13
May 06, 2004, 11:40:13 AM
Took the 2 screws and found a hammer.  Then WWHHAACCKK and it split right open w/o any damage to the YICS.  So looks like its time to get some gasket making stuff.  Thanks again for the idea, worked great.  

Lucky - if you see this I still may need one if I screw this up.

Ken
'82 Vision project.  First Vision, First Bike.
Sometimes monkeys die, Sometimes monkeys die.  It not a good saying, but its a saying.

Bruce

#14
May 06, 2004, 11:50:09 AM
Ken,


Saw a YICS through Bill Wheeler on ebay..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7900656066&category=10066

Just in case..

Bruce

nvdranger

#15
May 06, 2004, 12:03:23 PM
thanks for the info, I'll have to look into it.

Ken
'82 Vision project.  First Vision, First Bike.
Sometimes monkeys die, Sometimes monkeys die.  It not a good saying, but its a saying.

Ron_McCoy

#16
May 06, 2004, 01:00:23 PM
You can run without the YICS.I did for several years.Just plug the vacuum ports in the head.There is not much difference with or without.I just put one back on mine thanks to Glenn W.I notice that it idles about 200-300 rpm faster and runs a little better right off of idle.

nvdranger

#17
May 07, 2004, 10:57:06 AM
It wasn't all that bad.  Created the gasket last night and let it sit overnight.  So it will go back on today.

I still think there may be a problem somewhere else as well.  First I have gas coming from what seems like the diaphram on the rear carb (#49 on powersportspro.com website) and they want $25 ouch or is there anything else I can do if that diaphram is shot?.  W/o the YICS she would only stay running with the choke on at about 3000 rpm, the second I let go of the choke the rpms drop and it dies.  I think I'm gonna rip her back apart and change all the jets since I couldn't read the #s on them.  Then re-synch the carbs and see what happens.  Is there anything else I should ook into?

Ken
'82 Vision project.  First Vision, First Bike.
Sometimes monkeys die, Sometimes monkeys die.  It not a good saying, but its a saying.

Lucky

#18
May 07, 2004, 08:49:34 PM
If your running at 3K on full choke, you've got a big-assed vacuume leak, I'm surprised you can't hear it whistling...

get yourself a can of gumout with the straw pipe and start sprayig around the carbs, intakes, hoses, YICS & petcock 'till you find the leak. (the idle will come right down)

--Lucky
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

nvdranger

#19
May 08, 2004, 10:39:23 AM Last Edit: May 09, 2004, 11:16:06 AM by nvdranger
I can't hear it whistling b/c of the exhaust. ?Remember how I said the guy put a y-pipe in the front, well with stock mufflers that left a huge hole on one side and the exhaust is coming out the wrong end. ?thus creating an open header sound, puttin the stock pipes back on today and I'll see what I can find.
The bad news poured in this afternoon, literally. ?First the starter needs to be rebuilt all it did was click. ?Then there was tons of gas comin out the overflow. ?the bike is tore apart again. ?The diaphram #49 of ppp.com is shot, one of the floats is broke now and I have to find that starter seal. ?Great, now some frustration is building

Ken
'82 Vision project.  First Vision, First Bike.
Sometimes monkeys die, Sometimes monkeys die.  It not a good saying, but its a saying.
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