Resurrecting a 1982 Vision....

[Rick G]

Be sure to remove the accelerator nozzle. There's a plunger and check ball under it . Usually it takes a pair of vise grips to get them out. Be certain the nozzles are clean , check with carb spray . Also the direction of the spray, from the nozzles,  is critical.

[musicweb]

One of them was a little stubborn, but got them both out, Rick...

Just finished checking all passages with carbclean. All of them seem OK.

I did read somewhere....I think Lucky's site....about aiming the accell nozzles and what to watch for.

Going to do some engine polishing for a while now.....

[inanecathode]

So the accelerator nozzles are sort of bendable right? Just make sure they're seated right, put the carb together and fill up the bowls with test fluid of some kind. Operate the linkage and make sure that the accelerator nozzles start spraying evenly (not suddenly all at once, that means either the linkage is jacked up or the diaphragm is crispy). It should spray a clean straight even cone, not a stream, and it should spray right down between the throttle shaft and the side of the venturi. It shouldnt touch either but go right between evenly when you hammer it all the way open. If you have to bend the tube at all do it gently and you should be able to nudge it around real careful with your fingers.

[Night Vision]

I'll do some shots of carbclean in all passages before soaking.

Anything else I should be looking for?

make sure all the jets are out..... air pilots, mains, fuel pilots

also, when you take the pilot screws out, make sure you dig those tiny little o-rings out with a paperclip or such

[musicweb]

The only o-ring I can find is the one on the drain screw.

The only adjustable screw I see is the idle adj. screws on both carbs, near the butterflies.....no o-ring in there, just a spring.
Checked my old carbs...no o-rings there either.

Checked Lucky's site and saw something about frozen adjuster screws, but my '82 carbs do not have those.

Unless there are other plugs I need to remove.....but I hesitated on that.

[Night Vision]

the pilot screws should have an o-ring, washer, spring, screw.....

they (#3 in this diagram), are located here :


hmmm #3 doesn't show , better go here and see for youself: http://www.xz550.com/bowl.html


don't forget to pulll the emulsion tubes out also...

here's some good tips from Lucky:

http://www.xz550.com/carbclean.html

[musicweb]

Found the o-ring and washers! It looked like nothing else was in there.....

Stuck down inside....but I used my small pick and gently pulled them out intact.

Yes, I did pull the emulsion tubes. They came out easily.

Thanks for the help!

[musicweb]

Also read in the Haynes book to remove the venturis before soaking, and inspect the venturi seals.

[musicweb]

Getting back to my oily starter.... I received the rebuild kit this morning.

It worked fine, all components were included, even the new type oil seal.

Here's the guy I bought it from if anyone needs a kit, or for future reference:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-XZ550R-Vision-Starter-repair-Rebuild-kit-38_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6755QQihZ012QQitemZ220393708898

I made an offer of $29.95 and he accepted it.

[musicweb]

The carb rebuild went good over the course of a few days.
After letting it sit on Prime for a minute, half choke, and it fired right up.

Had to play with the idle speed, and then the pilot adjustments, then it ran OK.

I made one of the homemade synch tools, which also worked well.
A minor adjust of the synch rod, and that was OK.

Took it for a short road trip of about 20 miles.....she ran really good!
But the charging system needs work.

Pulled the stator today...it was fried all around.

Even found a small lock washer, maybe a 4 or 5 mm, lying in the bottom of the side cover.
No idea where it goes....someone has been in there before?

The starter clutch bolts are still tight, and it looks like they have been peened over twice on each one.
Should I still replace them while I'm in there....or leave alone?

Have to pick up a new cover gasket I ordered from the dealer on Monday.

Got the new stator from RMstator. Will let everyone know how it works.

[QBS]

Regarding starter clutch bolts:  What do mean "and it looks like they have been peened over twice on each one."  Peening renders the bolt end looking like a flatened mushroom.  One can't tell how many times it "has been peened over"  FYI: The OEM starter bolts are "staked", not peened.  The appearance is that a small cross has been stamped on to the end of the bolt.

How many miles on the bike?  Staked bolt ends and less than 23k miles are highly indicative of OEM installation.  Meaning that starter clutch reattachement is probably in your future.

[musicweb]

Hi QBS,

10,000 miles and has been sitting outside for over 2 years.

It looks like someone took a center punch and hit the bolts near the outside, forming like a crater pushing towards the flywheel.

I figure I may as well do them while I'm in there. Will pick up the bolts today.

Got the stator mounted and all surfaces bright and shiny for the new gasket.

Will also get some Yamabond while at the dealer for the grommets.

Was thinking....if vibration is the problem with these stators, why didn't the engineers figure out some kind of isolation mounting?

[QBS]

With 10k miles showing, sounds like OEM starter clutch installation for sure.

[Rick G]

Music , the bike was only made 2 years for the North America, so Yamaha probably had no idea there was a problem. The same G7 stator is used in many bikes . There is no proof that vibration is the problem. I'm not saying it isn't the problem , but there just isn't enough proof , that it is. There have been several theories as to why the stator fails (as it does in lots of bikes) and there may be more than one cause, (as I suspect) This type of charging system runs wide open and live in a crappy environment, so periodic failure may be the standard.

[musicweb]

The bolts for the starter clutch were loose after all.
For anyone thinking about leaving them alone as I was, it's hard to tell unless you take the flywheel off.

Using a 3-point puller, it took 4 good whacks with my mallet and it popped off.
Not on the floor....it just hung there.
Rollers and springs, etc....all looked good.
No cracks in plate.

I cut three new bolts a few threads longer, cut a crisscross in them, red loctite, and spread them with a punch.
Worked well....

Red loctite on the flywheel bolt, torqued to 58 ft lbs as the manual says.

Yamabond on the grommets, and where all wires go through them, and let that set for an hour.

New gasket on the bright and shiny cover, and should be OK after it sits tonight.

Still need to reconnect the RR, etc....but in the morning.....

Thanks to all that have contributed to this thread.....
but I'm sure it's not over yet.

Will post some pics when I get her running again.....
Still stuck on a name...

[Walt_M.]

You may regret the red loctite on the flywheel bolt. They aren't prone to coming loose and it will be a real bear to get out again should you have to.

[Rick G]

In the flywheel bolt application , blue locktite would be more than enough!

[Night Vision]

Will post some pics when I get her running again.....
Still stuck on a name...

I used to be good at naming Visions..... but I ran out of 'em just before Tiger's "Lucky Seven"

[musicweb]

All up and running again.... 8)

New stator is putting out 13.5 at idle....up to 14.3 at around 2500-3000.
Sometimes goes to 14.5....

Took her to the gas station yesterday to fill up.
Started right back up when done.

Will be taking her for a road trip later today for about 100 miles....(who knows, maybe longer)

Still a little cleaning and polishing to do, but otherwise, she's looking good.

[funkamongus]

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet... looking good indeed!!!