Speedo quit working....

[musicweb]

On my way to upstate NY, when the speedo quit.

I disconnected from the front wheel and spin the cable with my fingers and the speedo works.

The cable seems to go into the front drive OK, as I can "feel" it go into the square hole. But turning the wheel nothing happens.

Something went wrong inside the speedo drive I imagine, but no tools or parts here to work on it.

I can still ride, but just curious if anyone knows what may have happened?

To fix it, I'll have to wait until home on Monday.

[h2olawyer]

That's a new one for me.  You're likely right that it is something in the drive unit.  At least spinning the cable turns the speedo, so it isn't at that end.  Getting tougher to find working speedos.  Drive units are readily available.

Check to see if the tab is present & properly engaged in the fork leg.  Beyond that, you'll likely need to replace the drive.  I've never had one apart & don't know if they even disassemble!

Wish I could be of more help.  Let us know if you need another drive.  I'm sure there are several spares around.

H₂O

[musicweb]

Tab is in the fork leg H2.....

Yeah, something went wrong inside the drive.

Still got 300 miles of my trip left too.....oh well.

Oh Yeah...and my automatic signal cancellation stopped working too!

Other than that, I had some good riding weather to Lake George, NY.

Headed fro New Hampshire tommorrow....

[h2olawyer]

The signal cancel unit is a common failure.  I had one die & the turn signals wouldn't work.  Installed another cancellation box and the signals worked, but the cancellation still did not.  No big deal to remember to manually cancel a turn signal.  I've never relied on it anyway.  Even when I had a functional one, it would work 'most of the time'.  As long as the signals still flash, I don't know if I'd even worry about it.

Enjoy your ride - bet that's some pretty country you're in now.

H₂O

[YellowJacket!]

The signal cancellation is tied into the spedo unit.  There is a sensor on the flywheel in the spedo that stops the clock from counting (thats why your signals stay on if you are stopped at a traffic light) Once you start moving, the sensor triggers a circuit to cut off the turn signal after a set time.

The sensor actuallly looks something like a small light bulb inside the speedo unit.  I think I still have my extra one and can take some pics.

Forgot to mention the possible problem.  The cable may have broken inside the sleeve.  If you disconnect the cable at the speedometer, can you pull the whole inner cable out?  It may also have come unseated from the speedo end of the cable.

David

[QBS]

If you have recently had reason to remove the front wheel, it's possible that the lower fork speedo unit is improperly reassembled.  It's easy to misalign the male tab part with the slotted female part.  When this happens the tabs get bent and aren't turned by the slots.  The fix is to disassemble, use needle nose pliers to bend the tabs "back to where they once belonged.  Get back Louwretta!"(couldn't resist the opportunity to quote Sir Paul), and thoughtfully reassemble.

[musicweb]

I think that's what happened QBS. I had the wheels off to replace the tires last week.

The speedo worked up until yesterday. Must have bent the tabs inside.

Also explains the signal cancellation problem.

Should be a simple enough fix when I get back home on Monday.

Thanks for all the input.

Got caught in the rain today upstate Vermont.....a little chill in me, so going to take a hot bath now.

[musicweb]

Got home safely after putting on over 500 miles.....
The bike ran good throughout my 3 day trip.

Checked the speedo drive first thing, and sure enough, the tabs were bent back away from the drive gear.

After a little surgery, all is back to normal again.  :)

Speedo works and signals cancel again.

One thing I did notice after I gave the bike a wash, a small ticking sound has developed at idle. Very minor, comes and goes.
Never noticed it before though.

Can't pinpoint it. Maybe needs valve adjustment now?

The bike has never had anything done to it I'm finding out.

[QBS]

If the ticking sound seems to come the rear cylinder area, it may be the early stages of an exhaust leak.  Advise you do nothing and see if worsens.  How many miles on the bike?

[musicweb]

11,347 miles on it.
I've put on over 1,000 since I got it.

It does seem to come from that area.
I can hear it better if I put my ear to the right side of the motor.
But like I said, it's minor right now.

For the heck of it, I thought it was the YIKS making noise, so I clamped of the rear cyl hose, and the idle went down, but noise was still there, only quieter.
I clamp off the front YIKS hose and nothing happens....no idle change.

The exhaust box had looked good when I was working on the bike a month ago, except for some surface rust. Other that that, there are exhaust rings in the connections right? Should I try to tighten the exhaust screws?

[Walt_M.]

For what it's worth, the valve check interval is 10,000 miles(I think) so yours could probably use some attention. You won't need the shim tool unless you have to change some. Also, if you change any, you will have to do a carb synch afterward. When I did mine(several years ago) I developed a nice little Vision stumble because I didn't do a synch.

[musicweb]

The manual says 5000 miles Walt....so while its raining the week, I'll do the check.

If I need them, anyone know where a source for valve shims?

I may try to make the tool on Lucky's site.

[Walt_M.]

I guess that was just wishful thinking on my part. Getting the cam covers off was not much fun as I remember. I was thinking about dropping the engine next time. The shims are still available but they are pricy. I have several but not much variety. Make sure you use the correct shim chart which is in the Technical section of the site or on Lucky's CD.

[QBS]

Vs' hold their valve adjustments for very very long times.  I think mine have been adjusted 3 times over the last 25 years.  Your sound is probably either early stage exhaust leak or starter clutch  detachment. 

Regarding the exhaust leak scenario: If it makes you feel better to tighten the exhaust clamps, go ahead.  But, it  probably won't make much difference.  Be very carefull to not get crazy and think "If a little is good, more is better".  On the V exhaust system, once they start leaking, nothing externally done will stop the progression.  Flame cutting of the sealing discs has begun and it only gets worse.  Just ride the bike until you can't stand it anymore and then bite the bullet and bend over.

Regarding the starter clutch detachment scenario:  Does the sound disappear above 2500 rpm?  If yes, then the starter clutch reattachment upgrade needs to be performed at your earliest convenience.  The attachment degradation will only get worse.  "Resistance is futile", if you know what I mean.  If you've been a student of the Forum for very long, this should not come as a surprise.


Caveat:  Having said these things, at the earliest stage of either scenario, it can be difficult to distinguish between the two.  Advise you do nothing right now except ride the bike as desired.  As/if the sound worsens, final diagnosis will be easy to determine.  However, starter clutch reattachment is inevitable before 24,000 miles.

[musicweb]

Starter clutch bolts were done when I did my stator....

[QBS]

Do nothing. Ride it and see what happens.

[Rick G]

I did my valve adj. in 2005 when I changed the bottom end. In 2007, when I did it again, the valve adj was spot on . I expect to go 10 years with out checking it.