Here is a scenario...

[Tiger]

 :) Here is a scenario that we are all familiar with... ;)

You get a knock at the door late at night :o "who can that be" you say to yourself!!! You open the door and there laid before you, complete/semi-complete/in a basket, is a sad, neglected Yamaha Vision, cast out and looking for a new home!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There is an envelope with a signed off ownership and a wee note that says "please look after my baby/this piece of junk" ::)

You take it in to your garage/shed and now, after giving her the once over decide to rebuild her  8)

Now here is the idea of this thread...You can only pick ONE problem and set out "The Fix"...and then maybe this can be edited and put in to a proper sticky for ALL new Vision owners one day... 8)

Please, only one problem and how to fix it per member...at least initially ;) It doesn't have to come in any order of priority... :-\

                8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Re-Vision]

Tiger,Why don't you select the problems in the order you prefer and then ask for volunteers or ask knowledgeable individuals for their "Fix" on a particular problem.  What about an off site photo location where high-definition pictures could help illustrate how to accomplish the various "Fixes".  I wouldn't want to infringe on Luckys' cd, could someone advise.  BDC

[Lucky]

REPLACING THE BRAKE BAR BOLTS

The following is a crucial safety issue that should be performed on EVERY Vision.

The rear brake drum plate on the bike is kept from rotating by a bar on the right side that runs from the plate forward to the frame.  if this bar were not there, there would be nothing to stop the backing plate from rotating with the drum (wheel) rendering the brakes in effective.  The bar is secured to the drum & frame by two specialty shouldered bolts.. each time the rear brake is applied, pressure is applied to these bolts.  over time they can wear, crack or break.

The result of bolt failure is that the brake plate will rotate, pulling on the activation rod & locking up the rear brake nearly instantly.  In addition to the rear brake locking up, If the back bolt fails, the bar may drag on the ground, but if the front bolt fails, there is a risk of "pogo-sticking" the bike as the bar digs into the pavement.

This is not a "could happen" scenario, it has happened to several Visionaries, sometimes with disastrous results. 

hopefully you can now see the importance of the two bolts.  as of this writing, they are now at least 25 years old.  Do not assume that if they look ok, they are ok. Spend less than $10 & replace them!

Now, on to the replacement procedure.

first, start with the correct bolts.  they are available from Yamaha, use the correct ones.  plain shouldered bolts won't do.

It's easier if the rear wheel is removed, but you can do it with the wheel on the bike.

remove the cotter pins from the end of the bolt., remove the nuts, then the bolts. 

this is a good time to inspect the bar for rust, cracks, bending, etc. if any problems are found, better to search for a replacement.

install the new bolts & torque to specs. (20 nm / 14 ft lbs ) install NEW cotter pins.

inspect this assembly periodically for looseness or any signs of wear.

Ride Safe, --Lucky

[Night Vision]

shut the door! maybe it'll go away  ;D

if it doesn't, grab it by the throat and shove in some tapered steering head bearings

[Raj1988]

sit on it for a while and then beg tiger to let her into his den :)

[don_vanecek]

I think you need to see first if the engine turns over-which could mean fixing a starter first-and then seeing if, when putting raw gas down it, the carbs are probably crap at this time-that the motor will run for a second or two. If this is successful then it maybe worth it to do all the varies fixes needed.

However I don't think this is really the answer you are looking for.

[funkamongus]

I'll take the starter then. Lots of these old girls were put away because they dont want to start anymore. Firstly, the factory seal in the nose in insufficient. There is an upgraded seal available. (SKF  part no. 563017 ... spec= CR 20X35X6 HMS 5 RG  .... SKF Seals  phone  1-847-742-7840  Elgin, IL ... online:  www.kscdirect.com  ) To take off the starter and get it back on you will need to open the side cover. Have a gasket ready. You will need circlip pliers. Undo the power wire, clean both ends and connectors. Undo the 2 screws holding the starter. Go to your left side cover. (here I use a box with a picture of the side cover and where the screws are, with holes for the screws to be pushed through, they are different sizes and you know where they go this way) You may need an impact driver for these bolts. (While open, you will want to check your inner gears for looseness and tighten your bolts in there, im sure someone will have an article about that one too)Remove the circlip on the nose part if the starter that is inside of the engine case, Slide starter out. Clean it off. When you remove the nose cone you will see the a brass part that spins around and solid brushes that contact it. Check the brushes for length. (New Whole brushes can be bought if there isnt much left). The (I believe its called a commutator) will be what the brushes rub on. Clean it up really well. back to bright clean. Also, clean the grooves out between the flat spots, there must be space between these pads for your starter to work. Put the brushes on, replace the seal in the nose with your new seal. Reinstall.  ( I use a little bearing grease on my gaskets to aid in removal and reuse, some also use chap stick. I get gaskets like the side cover, and use it for a template to cut one from gasket material. That way you eventually have templates for all gaskets and no need to purchase new ones.)
 
Thats all I can think of, if Ive forgotten anything or got something wrong (as I have done this on 4 or 5 bikes this summer and may have some things confused) Please feel free to modify or message me and I will.  

[Tiger]

 :) O.K...Funk' is on the right track...pick and explain a diagnosed fault and how to go about "fixing" the problem... 8)

??? REPLACE the brake bar bolts...what are these, why and where are they on my Vision Lucky???
??? Invest in a new battery...Why vadasz1??
??? shove in some tapered steering head bearings...Why, where are they located and how Night_Vision??

Examples....and there can be several "fixes"  ;)

Turns over but won't fire up... :-\
Won't turn over...  :-\
Revs take there time coming back down... :-\
Noisy and sometimes misses when trying to start...  :-\
How do you clean out the gas tank... :-\
There is oil all over the front forks...Why and how do I fix them??
Where is the air filter and how do I know when to change it  :-\
How do I change the oil and the oil filter :-\
etc, etc, etc, etc... ;)

Pick a problem from your own Vision that you diagnosed and explain the "fix" you did.... ::)


                   8).......TIGER....... 8)

[kev10104]

The engine just turns but doesn't start;Take the flywheel off and make sure the starter clutch is fine and not cracked.If it is replace it but if it is not then make sure the screws are tight and punch then tight and then put some locktight on it.

[Kojo]

Check and replace the fuses or fuse box. These are underneath the seat.

Clean, repair, and love on the carburetors. Get some carb cleaner and a screwdriver and spend a pleasant afternoon, one carb at a time. Be sure to re-adjust float valves and perhaps re-sinc the carbs. (Personal experience dictates this is a must)

Strip the paint off the tank (If it's bad) and plastics. You can sand these down or use a solvent, but really the best way is to sandblast or just sand. Then repaint color of choice (Rattle can or professional). Make sure you prime it off well.

Patch the tank, or at least POR15 it.

Repair the fairings/plastics with some fiberglass repair kits or epoxy.

Replace the bolts on the coolant pump (The YICS module [not the hanging YICS box] below the radiator on the right hand side) with some quality hex-screws.

Rub the rubber/plastic bits down with Armor All or Turtle Wax.

Replace the spark plugs.

Replace the tires.

These are just a few things that I did or will do, or is currently being done to mine to try and get it up on the road.

[funkamongus]

Need a valve adjustment "how-to", carb sync, tire changing, tapered bearings, swingarm bearings/service,, etc. I'll be watching, I'll take some if they dont get taken. I'll be watching to learn, also!!

[akvision]

Ok Funk here is the thread for the seal number.... http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=10719.0

[funkamongus]

Thanx, AK, inserted.

[YellowJacket!]

Clean the carbs...then clean them again.

Don't spray them down with carb cleaner.  Carefully disassemble them and dip them in carb cleaner.  Blow out all the ports with carb cleaner and dunk them again.  Reassemble and ride.

David

[funkamongus]

Here's another. Tire changing. Tools needed. At least 2 good tire irons, Also, good to have a friend to help, if no friend, you need 2 C Clamps, and a "BFH", like a large rubber mallet. There is also, available for purchase, a product called rim savers, little heavy plastic covers you snap onto your rims to protect from scratches. They come 2 to a pack,, I recommend 3, (3 get around 25% around the wheel, enough to get the job done, roughly) so 2 packs are in order to make it easiest. First thing you need to do is take out the valve stem, and loosen the rim locker all the way (that will be the other threaded bolt coming out of your rim). Press down on wheel to break bead on both sides. If no love, break all the way around with C Clamps. Place wheel, brake rotor down, or sprocket, depending on which is sharper and poses more danger. on a garbage can or something about waist high. Locate rim lock if you have one, and stem. Go to the middle in between the stem and locker, and squeeze the tire with the C Clamps, the goal is to get the beads of the tire into the middle area of the wheel, where they can be squeezed to get the most slack out of the other side. Stand in between the clamps and start on other side. First Iron in between tire and rim, in far enough to grab the tire bead with the "hook" end of the Iron. Pull back to you until the bead flops over and you can hold that iron with your left hand (if youre a righty). With the other hand, take the other Iron and go about 1 1/2 - 2 inches to either side, start flipping the bead to the outside, gently, making sure you arent grabbing the tube. When 1/2 the tire is there it will get rough for a bit but it will go. Now, with top of tire bead all the way off, reach into the tire and grab out the tube valve, carefully, and pull out tube. Now for the last half. Place wheel upright. At top, use Iron to flip the tire bead out of the rim in the same direction you went on the first half. When the Iron comes over, hold it there, putting downward pressure on the Iron. Grab your BFH and start hitting the tire, downward, next to the rim. It will come. After about 40% off, you can grab by hand and rip away.
Reverse, to get back on. If you have rim lockers, put tire in partway in locker first, and work out from there. When on, pump up until bead pops into place, then reduce to running pressure. If no love on the bead, you can let air out, squeeze with C Clamps and soap up the tire, at problem spots, and go again. (I do not soap the tire to get it on and off, while it may make the tire slide, it also makes everything else slide) Toughest part is getting the valve in. It can be done by raising the tire away from the hole with an iron and using your other hand to manipulate it into place. Not easy and your knuckles will hate you, but it CAN be done, I did 3 changes in about an hour and a half with help. Note, I do not use nuts on the valve stem to tighten them down, reason is, at least on dirt bikes, your wheel can spin if you have enough gumption. If this happens, and you have tightened down your valve, it can rip the stem right off. I use the nut to hold the tube in the tire while assembling, after, I use it to lock the cap on only.
Again, If ive forgotten or missed, please advise and I will update.
Its not easy but can save you money. Its also like everything else, its difficult the first time, even the first couple, but it can be done. After a few times,, its no biggie.

[Kiwi]

Change all the fluids
install an inline fuel filter

[Re-Vision]

Kiwi, it would be nice to list all the fluid brands and weights you recommend or personally use.  BDC

[funkamongus]

Heres one for ya. A large Dent in your tank. I had a huge dent in the top of my tank from what appeared to be two fists coming down in frustration. (not mine, P.O.)I pumped up my air compressor to as high as it would go, I made covers for petcock hole and fuel sender hole, *Important part* I wrapped the tank with 2 belts to stop spreading. I wrapped a shop rag around the nozzle of the air compressor, not trying to get it really tight,, just trying to increase pressure manually until POP!! It wont come ALL the way out, but will be close enough for bondo. I have pics here.
BEFORE
http://picasaweb.google.com/funkamongus20/MyVirago#5301720827003257954
AFTER
http://picasaweb.google.com/funkamongus20/MyVirago#5301720840453754242
AFTER TOP VIEW
http://picasaweb.google.com/funkamongus20/MyVirago#5301720858689749538

[lexx790]

Heres one for ya. A large Dent in your tank. I had a huge dent in the top of my tank from what appeared to be two fists coming down in frustration. (not mine, P.O.)I pumped up my air compressor to as high as it would go, I made covers for petcock hole and fuel sender hole, *Important part* I wrapped the tank with 2 belts to stop spreading. I wrapped a shop rag around the nozzle of the air compressor, not trying to get it really tight,, just trying to increase pressure manually until POP!! It wont come ALL the way out, but will be close enough for bondo. I have pics here.
BEFORE
http://picasaweb.google.com/funkamongus20/MyVirago#5301720827003257954
AFTER
http://picasaweb.google.com/funkamongus20/MyVirago#5301720840453754242
AFTER TOP VIEW
http://picasaweb.google.com/funkamongus20/MyVirago#5301720858689749538

Good idea but having worked in a pneumatics company I wouldn't recommend filling such a large volume with compressed air.  I've bench tested various recepticles and find when things fail with compressed air they go off with a bang. Usually when we burst test anything we do it with oil or water so as soon as something gives the small leakage of fluid rapidly gets rid of the pressure and no bang.

[funkamongus]

I was careful to state that I wasnt fully stopping up the tank. ("not trying to get it really tight,, just trying to increase pressure manually until POP" )The petcock hole, and the fuel sender hole were sealed. I wrapped the nozzle with a shop towel, at the cap, and progressively sealed it off more, by hand, until it popped. I used a little pressure as it would take to do it, in fact, I started with it with the compressor turned down to a few lbs of pressure and ended up around 100 lbs. PS I also tried Dry Ice, like on youtube, for the acute dents, but no love, Gas tanks are too thick for this. Since this is potentially dangerous, I must say, try at your own risk, to protect myself and the web site.