Starter Clutch Dissection Pics

[Jimustanguitar]

I pulled off my flywheel this evening to do the starter clutch deed. I'm lucky that I did, because it was ready to come loose! I think this is why I was only getting clicks out of my starter on Saturday...

If you look at the pictures, all 3 hex bolts were only finger tight. 1 of them had backed out enough to where its head had started wearing against the gear behind it (I don't see any evidence of this wear anywhere except the hex screw though). You can see the marks on the flywheel where the clutch had been rattling around against it. You can also see that the threads on the original bolts are mashed where the clutch housing was rattling against them. All of the springs in the clutch sprung when the flywheel hit the cardboard I was working on, but they don't look terrible to put back in (looks easier than replacing the pullstring on a mower anyway).

Luckily, the threads in the flywheel itself look ok, and I'm doing this work now instead of pushing around a 400lb 30yr old.

[QBS]

Looks like you dodged the bullet.  What did it sound like at idle?

[fret not]

Close call, dude!  Much less expensive this way.

[Jimustanguitar]

It definitely didn't sound happy. It had that tell tale rod knock that's not a rod.

Now I can't wait to hear it run smooth and quiet!

[Cdnlouie]

Make sure you look over the technical posts on this item as it is a critical part of the Vision maintenance.  Use only properly hardened bolts and a peening procedure is good insurance to keep them from walking out (originally instituted by Yamaha and generally improved upon by Vision riders over the years).  You can use threadlocker too but don't count on anything to keep them tight as the threads in the rotor are the weak point and they tend to stretch over time causing loosening.

You are one of the lucky ones  ;)

[Jimustanguitar]

Longer grade 12.9 bolts, red loc-tite, and mushrooming the protruding threads... Check.

I'm currently reading up on the 42mm crankshaft nut behind the flywheel/clutch assembly. There's less info on what the ROV "best practice" is for that one.

[Rick G]

If you can't locate a 42mm socket , you can rely on a small chisel  and hammer. Be sure to locktite it and bend over both tabs. A chisel is not the preferred method, but is an option in a pinch

[Tiger]

I'm currently reading up on the 42mm crankshaft nut behind the flywheel/clutch assembly.

Pssst, Jim...I think you should know that it is a 46mm nut, not 42mm. A socket with a torque wrench should be used...just saying ;)

                    8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)

[Rick G]

Your right John, a  46 mm socket should be used, but you would be surprised how few  tool boxes contain one . Most visions I've had apart , have the telltale notches where a  chisel has been used.  I have a lot of big sockets , but no 46.mm.

[rm97]

Just to clear up any possible confusion, a torque wrench should not be used for removing fasteners, a breaker bar would be best.

I went through quite the process removing that nut. I went out and bought the suggested 46mm crowfoot wrench, but that nut would not budge. Eventually the wrench slipped off a couple times and began to ruin the flats of the nut. Next I resorted to the chisel and hammer, after a couple afternoons of trying there was still no sign of the nut turning. Finally I resorted to cutting a slit in it and splitting the nut so I could remove it. That worked great, but I wouldn't suggest it unless you plan to disassemble the engine entirely so you can make sure all the metal shavings are out.

Not trying to jack your thread here. I'm considering buying a 46mm socket for reassembly, do you think it would be significantly better than a crowfoot wrench? I figure that without the open end of a crowfoot wrench, and with the increased contact area a socket would be better.

Thanks, Rory

[Tiger]

Just to clear up any possible confusion, a torque wrench should not be used for removing fasteners, a breaker bar would be best.

Agreed...but we are talking about checking and tightening the nut prior to reinstalling the gear and flywheel...therefore, a torque wrench should be used if possible.

The socket I have was custom made by Big Barrie, a recently dear departed friend of mine and the OnROV crew, from a 46mm box wrench, cut, machined and cold welded on to a 4" pipe which had been capped at the other end and a 7/8" drive socket welded on to the cap...and all polished up, truly a work of art!!! Before anyone asks, NO, I do not lend/hire it out.

              8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)

[iain]

Can someone tell me if this 46mm nut is loose what are the signs u will feel through the bike,

Iain
NZ

[rm97]

Agreed...but we are talking about checking and tightening the nut prior to reinstalling the gear and flywheel...therefore, a torque wrench should be used if possible.

The socket I have was custom made by Big Barrie, a recently dear departed friend of mine and the OnROV crew, from a 46mm box wrench, cut, machined and cold welded on to a 4" pipe which had been capped at the other end and a 7/8" drive socket welded on to the cap...and all polished up, truly a work of art!!! Before anyone asks, NO, I do not lend/hire it out.

              8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)

I'm sorry, I thought he was removing it to further disassemble the engine. Looks as though I created a little more confusion, ;D.

Northern tool sells a 1-13/16" socket, http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200384626_200384626. I'm not sure on the quality of this item, but it is relatively inexpensive and would probably be just fine for a few uses. Only concern would be the depth of the socket.

[Jimustanguitar]

Pssst, Jim...I think you should know that it is a 46mm nut, not 42mm.

Tiger, if I had a socket that big, I would have just read the number off of it :) At least I didn't buy the wrong one yet, thanks for mentioning it.

Perhaps we should begin the official ROV tool exchange... I'm sure somebody has this socket that would not miss it for a few days. For the cost of shipping and with a return/replace honor code, there isn't much that I wouldn't lend to a friend. I also like buying tools though :)

[zore]

My starter clutch is shot and i bought a new one which i received last week.  I'm going to buy cap screws today as mine look just like yours.

[Jimustanguitar]

I got mine put back together last week except for the side cover gasket which was in transit from Tiger (he made me an awesome gasket, fits like a glove). Anyway, I got the gasket yesterday, put it on, and got her started again. It's a night and day difference in how the bike sounds. Tonight I'll be tuning everything in and getting it to run smoothly so I can take her out on the street tomorrow!

The starter clutch job really is quite easy as long as you have the right tools (mainly a 3-hole puller and a manly hammer). I spread the job out over a few evenings, but you could do the whole deed in an afternoon if you wanted to. I would recommend waiting at least one day after the repair before you fill it up with oil and start it though, you do need to give loctite a little time to dry.

It's still fresh in my memory if you have any questions once you're in there. Good luck!