1982 Vision - what to do?

[dex3703]

Hello,

I haven't been here for a while. I have a 1982 Vision I got a couple years ago. This bike has very few miles at 3600 and I haven't ridden it much.

The bike was doing okay until the last two times I've taken it out. It is very hard to start and stalls at idle, which it didn't use to do. Its other problems are a coolant leak (it weeps from that hole in the front when it gets hot) and the front tire appears to have a slow leak. it's also difficult to get the front fairing to sit properly so it both doesn't squeak and doesn't squash the horn.

I haven't done much to the bike besides change the oil and replace the broken fusebox with modern fuses. I also cleaned all the electrical contacts and sealed them with electrical grease. So far as I know the carbs haven't ever been cleaned so I suspect that is its current problem, from what I've read.

I've never rebuilt a carb so don't know anything about it. I do have all the shop manuals. Are parts for these bikes still available? Is it worth working on? I don't have a lot of money right now, but will have a little when the tax refund comes in.

Thanks in advance,
Derek

dex3703 at juno period com

[Robert Lamoureux]

Hey Derek,

    My Vision sat for 14 years with the same gas in the tank. when I drained it, it looked like black coffee.

    After a few carb cleanings with carb spray I got it to turn over and run. If your bike only sat for a short time, I would try the canned spray cleaner. If that does not work, send the carbs to Lucky.

Hope this helps

[h2olawyer]

Lucky might not want to do the carbs - see his earlier post on the subject.  Rick G. might do them or I've been tossing around the idea of picking up a bit of the slack and do a couple sets per year.  Let us know how the other methods work.

For the carbs, you might try running a carb cleaner through the system. ?Pour it in the tank - assuming it isn't Kreem lined - and go for a ride. ?There's a slightly more involved method explained somewhere in the recent past, about a month or two back as I remember.

If that doesn't work, there's no rebuild kit for the '82 carbs. ?Most likely, you can get away with giving them a good cleaning in Berryman's carb cleaner - I think it's called either Chemtool or B-12. ?It comes in a large can, about gallon size and you dip all metal parts - NO RUBBER!!! (Berryman's will eat it.) ?You may have to make a new set of float bowl gaskets. ?I've done mine twice (Let it sit too long without Sta-Bil) and the bike runs teriffic now. ?You'll probably get more help from others with the carbs. ?Also, check Lucky's Resource site for a way to make a manometer for very little $$. ?Synchronizing the carbs after cleaning really smooths things out and gives you noticeable power gains.

The horn interference problem might be solved by carefully bending the horn mount back (toward the frame). ?Which fairing do you have? ?I had a "shark" fairing on mine and had a similar problem. ?A little tweak and no more squashed horn.

Which hole does the coolant leak from? ?If its near where the hoses attach from the radiator, your water pump needs resealing. ?There is a reseal kit for it available from Yamaha. ?Also, make sure you use non-silicate antifreeze. ?Normal auto stuff eats the seals.

How new are your tires? ?First, inflate the tire to 35psi. ?Then,use some soapy water to check the valve core. ?Next, run a the soapy water around the rim where the tire meets. ?Any leaks in these areas will show up with bubbles. ?If those tests are negative, use the soapy water on the tread and locate the hole.

If the leak is in the valve core, try tightening it or better yet, replace it - they're cheap and readily available at any auto parts store.

If the leak is around the rim - a bead leak - you will have to deflate the tire and separate it from the rim. ?Make sure to mark the tire and rim so you can put it back together without significant change to the balance. ?You don't need to remove the tire entirely, just get it loose from the rim. ?Take a small wire brush - preferably brass like the ones used to clean golf clubs - and clean the rim. ?Then take some fine emery paper and give it a good final smoothing. ?Reinflate the tire to your desired psi.

The leak could also be through the wheel itself. ?It's rare but not unheard of. ?The only recommended repair for that is a tube

If you need to reseat the bead, install a tube or fix a hole in the tire, you might want to leave that to a professional. ?If you're going to replace the tire due to age, weather checking or wear, check the valve area and wheel just to be sure those are not leaking. ?Replacing tires yourself is doable but not easy. ?M/C tires are very stiff.

Hope this helps and wasn't too long. ?You know lawyers - Why use one word when many will do suffice!

Good luck and happy riding!

[h2olawyer]

Cleaned my garage this evening - the Berryman's is B-9 Chemtool and mine is about 2 quarts.  Comes with a basket to hold all the small carb parts and use it in a well ventilated area!

Rob

[dex3703]

I already bought a tire for it, so I will just have that put on. As far as I know the tires are original. I replaced the valve but there's still a leak.

The coolant leak is from the weephole in the front of the casing. It only leaks a little after the bike has been hot for a while.

I haven't run anything through the gas to clean them, though I recall spraying them carbs out. Or perhaps that was my wife's bike. does just spraying the crap out of them with the spray stuff really work?'

is there anything else that should be done to a bike liek this? I am not sure myself as the bike is 22 years old but has so few miles on it.

Derek

[dex3703]

Oh, and I forgot to add that I bought a can of the Berryman's dip a while ago, but never got around to using it. I am afraid to since there are apparently no replacement gaskets, and I don't know where they all are hiding.

I have the shop manuals--are these detailed enough to follow and get good results? from somebody who's never rebuilt a carb?

Thanks ,
Derek

[h2olawyer]

Derek -

Spray carb cleaners do a good job of making the carbs look better but there are some small passages inside that really need the work.  Gasoline turns gummy and creates a varnish effect over time.  I'd still try running the stuff you pour into the tank - it has a better chance of getting where its needed and you don't even have to remove the  tank.

Have you looked at Lucky's Vision Resource page?  He has all kinds of maintenance tips and what all to do to keep a Vision in good running order.  There's a link to it on the ROV home page.

I have a Haynes manual and it was fine for me rebuilding the carbs but I've done quite a few automotive carbs in the past.  Vision carbs can be a little tricky for a first timer.  I haven't seen the diagram in the factory manual but I imagine it is very similar to the one in the Haynes book.

The major Vision problems are Carbs, Stator & Regulator / Rectifier, Starter Seal, Starter Clutch Bolt, and Fuel Tank Rust.

Lucky's site has excellent explanations and diagrams dealing with these and other common fixes.  Hope it all helps!

Rob