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My '82 is finally complete! (sort of)

Started by Rikugun, July 06, 2010, 08:00:10 PM

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Rikugun

After recently repairing and installing the exhaust I was inspired to make the final push to get the bike on the road.  I took it on a brief test ride around the block one night after a marathon day of working on it. I've run it on the work stand and gone through the gears on the centerstand but nothing compares to the thrill of actual first ride - albeit a brief one. The next day after a trip to motor vehicles and a call to the insurance company she was ready for a proper test ride.

I've put on 300+ miles during several rides and it's been great fun learning this bike's personality. What a fun ride! This bike is as agile as I've heard and loves to turn. The power delivery is so much different from the in-line fours I'm accustomed to. It's fun to short shift through the gears but it will gladly rev and pull strong right to red line as well. I love how the engine's torque pulls out of turns. This past Saturday (July 3) I went for a ride with my brother Steve. We meet at a parking lot convenient to us both and when I pulled up I asked if he wanted to try the Vision. He's been following my progress with some interest and took the offer. We only went about 100 miles but I couldn't get him off the bike! I ended up on his 650 Nighthawk the entire ride.

Overall I'm very pleased but of course with a project such as this I expected to have to work through some kinks. One has been a recurring carb overflow issue. Once after initially installing the carbs and running from a test tank. Once on an early test ride that made getting home a bit tricky. Since then it's been just a drip here and there but needs to be addressed. The other significant issue is a lack of front brake pressure. Around town using both front and rear brakes there is adequate stopping power but I do not feel completely safe trying to haul it down from highway speeds in a hurry.

It's taken a while to get to this point mainly due to limited time to devote to the project. Actually, without the help of the forum I doubt I'd be this far along. I'm hoping that by the beginning of next season I can do more riding and less fussing.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

Night Vision

congrats on getting her on her feet...

try bleeding you front brake or upgrading the front brake with a SS line and master / caliper rebuilds, maybe sintered pads
if it ain't worth doing it the hard way....
it ain't worth doing it at all - Man Law
;D


if it ain't broke..... take it apart and find out why


don't give up.... don't ever give up - Jimmy Valvano

Raj1988

Rock and Roll Ain't Noise Pollution

QBS

An inline fuel cut off valve will really help you control your leaking gas issues.  Of course, you have already installed your inline fuel filter, correct?

Rikugun

The caliper piston was seized due to corrosion behind the seal and was corrected prior to the first ride. Without touching the master cylinder, this fix alone made a noticeable improvement. The master cylinder was then rebuilt and it's bore does not have any scratches or gouges. The rebuild kit was a K&L and made in Japan. Anyone have any experience with this brand?

Bleeding the system (using various methods) after this work never produced satisfactory results. The lever will go to the grip with minimal effort while under hard braking. There seemed to be no improvement over just freeing the caliper piston. While the SS line would be a great upgrade, it seems a wasted expense if the master cylinder doesn't produce sufficient pressure. At least, that's my current theory - the master cylinder seems to be the likely culprit.

I have another factory line to try and master cylinder although it has a broken/frozen cover screw to be repaired. I'm not out of options yet but it is perplexing.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

QBS

When you reassemble your M/C use two socket head (aka:"allen head") screws to hold the top on.

Walt_M.

The old brake line will flex enough to cause the brake lever to hit the grip. If you think you can't afford stainless, get a new rubber line. You will be amazed.
Whale oil beef hooked!

Re-Vision

I found black countersunk allen head screws that look great and the 2.5 mm screw holes appear to be the right depth for an EZ out thirty years from now.    BDC

Tiger

Quote from: Rikugun on July 07, 2010, 10:17:45 AM
.......and master cylinder although it has a broken/frozen cover screw to be repaired.

:) They are easy to drill out when they have 'butchered heads'...Once the screw head is drilled off, remove the cover and rubber seal and there should be sufficient material left to remove the screw thread...VOILA!!!

The twentyeight year old rubber brake lines have lots of flex in them and should be replaced, regardless. The S.S. braided brake lines are a great upgrade... ;)

          8).......TIGER....... 8)
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA lets go again baby !!!!!!

'82 Vision, Pearl Orange finish, lots of up-grades!!!

h2olawyer

Congratulations on making the move from a Fixer of Vision to a Rider of Vision!  Well done.   8)

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

Rikugun

Thanks all for the "congrats" and helpfull tips. As time permits (and when the temp in the garage falls below 100) I'll be exploring this further and posting my results.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

ejether

I had the same problem with carb overflow on my ride when I first got it.
Turned out to be an old petcock.

I installed a lawnmower petcock I got from Schucks till my rebuild kit arrived.
I also removed the carb bowl drains screws and filled them up with carb cleaner a few times hoping to unstick the floats which should prevent that overflow from happening on their own if they are functioning properly.

Also, since my petcock was faulty, the vacuum line was a direct route for fuel into the crank case so you might want to change you oil too.

Cheers
EJ

Rikugun

I appreciate the thought but I had the petcock working properly before the tank ever made it on the bike and the first overflow was while running with a test tank.

My first thought was overflow tubes too short from the factory (a tip from Lucky) but the leak is not constant so maybe not. Yesterday I made a new fuel level gauge and the front carb was within spec and the rear is actually a tad low. I've also considered the pump regulator intermittently malfunctioned as a result of the bike sitting dormant for so long. Several more rides have resulted in no more leaks so I'm not sure what it was.

Incidentally, I did end up trying my other master cylinder after removing the broken screw. Rather than using the rebuild kit's parts in it I just cleaned up the old parts and reused them. Well, except the rusty circlip and the ripped dust boot. The brake now has a much improved feel, not spongy like before.

As a side note to the brake improvement....  I was in my basement looking for my fuel level gauge (see above) in a box of old miscellaneous parts. Now, that tool should not have been in that box, and it wasn't, but I'd looked everywhere for it with no luck. What I did find however was a stainless steel brake line! I traded an old car for a basket case Kawi 550 standard with a single front disc and that line came with the parts but never got used. It's been awhile but I think it didn't fit. Anyway, I'd forgotten about it. I compared it to the spare stock Vision line and I think it will work. The length and angles on the ends look very promising. I'll keep you posted.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

QBS

You may be able to twist the ends penetrated by the Banjo bolts to get needed alignment.

Rikugun

I wondered about that and if it would compromise the integrity of the line. As it turned out it wasn't necessary. I got up early and did the swap and it fits well. Strong thunderstorms are forecasted for this AM so I'll hold off on the test ride. I'm not sure if the lever feels firmer because I think it should or if there is actual improvement over the rubber line but time will tell.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

Rikugun

Good news! The SS line works well! So well infact that now I can notice the pulsing in the lever and increased "fork tube death rattle" under hard braking due to a wavy rotor. I replaced the rotor with my parts bike one and it seems much better.

Now if there were just a way to subdue the fork rattle....
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan