Painting Questions

[Re-Vision]

I'm fixing to buy some paints for risers, top of triple tree as well as the frame. Any suggestions as to brand and type of paint that will more closely match stock appearance. I also have a really nice condition exhaust system that has chrome peeling off of the mufflers, how do I get the chrome off so it can be painted with a good heat resistant black paint, also looking for pointers as to brand of paint and whether a primer should be used. Welcome any thoughts on making a nice looking restoration such as the value of using an air-brush and should I have the frame powder coated?     BDC

[Lucky]

Spray paint (which, when done correctly can give great results) or Automotive paint?

[Kiwi]

I used spray paint with pretty good results.
I got it at auto zone.  It was labeled as heat and fuel resistant.
I'll check out the brand when i get home tonight.
It's been pretty durable, and was easy to apply.
I used a matte black paint, i'll find the exact description of it when i get home.

If i had the money, i would get it powder coated, that stuff is usually very durable

[Hartless]

If you can afford it I would go with powdercoating it. You could hit it with a hammer and it wouldn't chip or scratch ( a little drastic ) problem is that it can be expensive. I used autozone spray with ok results but am thinking of getting it powdercoated

[Lucky]

2x on the powder coating if you have the $$.  you may have to watch bolt holes as powdercoating will make then bolts to thread in.

Short of that, if your going to use spray paint, prep, prep, prep!  clean, sand lighly & primer well & sand, then paint with appliance epoxy spray.  color range isn't much, but it's easy to find semi & full gloss black.  then, one it's dry (give it a couple of days) topcoat with clear laquer.  laquer. when cured, is fuel proof.  make sure temps are in the right range & get a couple of spray can handles.  I did Pennys frame & engine last year (engine was polished & clearcoated) & it looks like i just did it. (a years not much time, but hey...)

you can get a good paint job that lasts with spray paint, you just have to prep well, follow the directions, perfect your technique, & clearcoat...  not as good as a profesional painter, but very nice on a budget...

[George R. Young]

Painting advice from another forum:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Painting_cheaply_with_Rust-Oleum

I used this technique on EX250 fairing bits, albeit with fewer coats, more like 2 or 3. Essentially, paint, wet sand, buff with polishing compound, wax. Pics on
https://www.ninja250.org/GeorgeRYoung

and one here showing the fairing, lower part sanded, upper part buffed.

[fret not]

One very important factor for a longer lasting and good looking finish job is scrupulous preparation and keep the film thickness down.  Too often I see finishes that have degraded because they are too thick.  They chip much more easily and they check with temperature fluctuations and exposure to the sun.  Thick paint can look really good when it is brand new but get some time wearing at it and spill some fuel on it and things go south pretty fast.  I learned this the hard way, and I see the same aspect in the finishes on many of the instruments I work on. 

[The Prophet of Doom]

If you want a factory finish, then +1 for powder coating.  Very nice looking and durable if properly prepared.  You can get a satin black that looks just like the real thing.  I was quoted $200 for a frame, so too steep for me.

I tried high quality auto laquer - the single pack ones just dissolve in front of your eyes when touched with fuel, brake fluid, engine degreaser, those with catalytic hardeners are very toxic, and hard to get here.

I've been using Por15 Blackcoat for a lot of my parts, It's petroleum resistant just like the Por15 tank liner, and is self leveling so it doesn't leave brush marks (much, if you are careful).  Or it comes in a spray can also - it is a GLOSS though, so looks different from factory. after 1 week it is tough enough to hammer without chipping.  If you go that way, do the whole marine clean, metal ready, por15, blackcoat sequence for best results.

They have a range of heatproof as well but I haven't tried it.

[YellowJacket!]

I used black "appliance paint" on mine and it has held up great.  I think it was Brian Moffet that had used it on his bike which is where I got the idea from.

David