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What did you do to your vision today?

Started by sunburnedaz, January 24, 2013, 02:09:20 AM

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PwrManDan

MEK is not available to me in my area.  What they have is a "MEK Substitute".  I have decided that it does not compare to the real thing.

Rikugun

Quote from: HarryTakeuchi on April 10, 2013, 10:46:09 PM
....Only 1 set of pedals I see on Yahoo Auction ......About USD 46 each. I think the transmission pedals are also aluminum for the 25R XZ550D.

Harry, thanks for looking into that. It is tempting but I think I'll spend that money on the bike elsewhere.  :)

Would be kina cool though....  ;) I'm guessing the splines are the same and the length is akin to the US '83 model???
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

jefferson

If I remember right the brake pedal off a 900 Seca is aluminum and bolts right up to the Vision. I think that is what I used.

Jeff

Rikugun

Which Vision? The two years use different length controls.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

jefferson

That would be an 83. Sorry I should have mentioned that.

Jeff

Rikugun

Thanks - I thought it might be the '83 but didn't want to assume.  :)
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

HarryTakeuchi

My battery died suddenly. The dead battery was a made-in-China deal that I got for about 30 dollars so I kind of expected that it may not last very long, but this is less than a month since I got the battery brand new.  One of the cells had a very low reading on the hydrometer so maybe something is short curcuited inside that cell.  I changed it to a genuine Furukawa Battery and this better live longer as it cost me about 5 times as much.

Harry Takeuchi

Rick G

It seems like the Japanese did not sell all there secrets to the Chinese, They still have quality control problems!
Rick G
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there in lurks the skid demon
'82.5 Yamaha XZ550 RJ  Vision,
'90 Suzuki VX800, 1990 Suzuki DR350.
'74  XL350   Honda , 77 XL350 Honda, 78 XL350 Honda, '82 XT 200 Yamaha, '67 Yamaha YG1TK, 80cc trail bike

Fuzzlewump

What did I do to my Vision today? I broke her rear wheel! Gah!  :-[

Trying to remove the old wheel bearings, I destroyed a few blocks of wood with my BFH (this is the second BFH...I destroyed the first one removing the front bearings). With no more wood around to use as a buffer between the hub and hammer, I decided to use a flatbar wrapped in towels. Stupid mistake. Stupid, stupid. My grip slipped on the flatbar and with one strike I smashed it into the edge of the drum, knocking a nice chip out of the drum.

I'm almost done with the task of getting the bike running. I'd be really pissed about this if it weren't for the fact that I found a replacement wheel on Ebay for really cheap. Now comes the fun part...more waiting for parts!

I swear, I think the gremlins know that I am about to smash them to the grave with a vengeance and they're putting up their last full effort, bringing out the big dogs so to speak. I had no idea the bearings were gonna be that stubborn.
Know ye not that ye are a gremlin?? Thou hast no quarter here- flee now from me!!

PwrManDan

Well, about two weeks ago Vision #4 (which came in trash cans and boxes) went to the sand blaster.  Just got it back and it is primed already.  Paint gets picked out tomorrow.

Rick G

You should have asked I have spare wheels. I use a large aluminum drift.
Rick G
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there in lurks the skid demon
'82.5 Yamaha XZ550 RJ  Vision,
'90 Suzuki VX800, 1990 Suzuki DR350.
'74  XL350   Honda , 77 XL350 Honda, 78 XL350 Honda, '82 XT 200 Yamaha, '67 Yamaha YG1TK, 80cc trail bike

Rikugun

Quote from: Fuzzlewump on April 19, 2013, 01:07:55 AM
Trying to remove the old wheel bearings, I destroyed a few blocks of wood with my BFH (this is the second BFH...I destroyed the first one removing the front bearings). With no more wood around to use as a buffer between the hub and hammer, I decided to use a flatbar wrapped in towels....... My grip slipped on the flatbar and with one strike I smashed it into the edge of the drum, knocking a nice chip out of the drum.

Sorry to hear about the rim. I'm curious what your exact procedure was especially relating to the use of wood blocks for removal and how a hammer gets destroyed in the process? There is a learning opportunity here - unfortunately at your expense. :( Seriously not wanting to rub salt in your wounds but others may want to avoid doing what you did.  :)

During removal and depending on the interference fit, wood may be absorbing too much impact energy requiring wild inaccurate blows like you're swingin' for the fence.  :D The trick is to get the inner spacer out of the way sufficiently to get a long drift (from the opposite side) against the inner race and drive it out with hammer blows directly on the metal drift.

For installation, ONLY drive against the outer race.  I've used a medium size ball pein hammer and a seal/bearing driver set with great success. It's only a small investment but if it saves one rim, engine case, etc. it's worth it. I've had mine for years and I don't recall where I got it but there are many sites that sell them like Harbor Freight and others. Motion Pro sells a set specifically for wheel bearings. Here's one from Northern Tools ( link below) similar to mine. The adaptors are beveled maybe for tapered bearing race installation? They can be reversed to use the flats as well. You can also use the disks without the handle which is helpfull in directing impact bias if it does happen to get cooked. Once it's straight and inserted even a modest amount, blows can then be centered again and it will continue to drive straight.  :)

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200353977_200353977
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

Fuzzlewump

Quote from: Rikugun on April 20, 2013, 09:32:11 AM

Sorry to hear about the rim. I'm curious what your exact procedure was especially relating to the use of wood blocks for removal and how a hammer gets destroyed in the process? There is a learning opportunity here - unfortunately at your expense. :( Seriously not wanting to rub salt in your wounds but others may want to avoid doing what you did.  :)

I'm beginning to think that I've had the wrong idea about the removal process all along...

Haynes manual says when you turn the hub over after heating it the bearings "should fall out of place." They most certainly do not! It also says that if they don't, "give the hub a rap with a soft-faced hammer to dislodge them."

I was heating the hub around the bearing I wanted to remove, then turning the wheel over and laying a block of wood on the opposite side of the hub, and hammering it with a 2lb rubber mallet. The wood was for extra protection, because I was afraid of damaging the mallet.  ::)

This destroyed every block of wood I used (square blocks of 2x4), so I began just hammering on the hub itself with the rubber mallet. This destroyed the mallet, lol. This process did manage to remove three wheel bearings after a serious amount of effort, however. Bottom line- it works, but is a MAJOR pain in the @ss. Took about an hour per bearing. After running out of wood blocks and ruining my rubber mallet, I switched to a flatbar wrapped in towels and a 3lb steel hammer. This was failing to remove the last two bearings in the rear wheel, but I kept trying until I damaged the drum.

Quote from: Rikugun on April 20, 2013, 09:32:11 AM
During removal and depending on the interference fit, wood may be absorbing too much impact energy requiring wild inaccurate blows like you're swingin' for the fence.

I think this was definitely my problem when trying to install the front bearings using the rubber mallet...a switch to the steel BFH solved it.

Quote from: Rikugun on April 20, 2013, 09:32:11 AM
  :D The trick is to get the inner spacer out of the way sufficiently to get a long drift (from the opposite side) against the inner race and drive it out with hammer blows directly on the metal drift.

Are you saying that if I remove the inner race of the bearing and the balls as well then the outer race will come out of the hub more easily?

Know ye not that ye are a gremlin?? Thou hast no quarter here- flee now from me!!

Rick G

I've read about that method for decades . Never worked well for me either. I use a heavy 14 inch punch , with flat end . I manage to catch the edge of the outer race and tap around the parameter , slowly moving the bearing out . This after heating the hub. Some ice chips in the center of the bearing helps too.
Rick G
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there in lurks the skid demon
'82.5 Yamaha XZ550 RJ  Vision,
'90 Suzuki VX800, 1990 Suzuki DR350.
'74  XL350   Honda , 77 XL350 Honda, 78 XL350 Honda, '82 XT 200 Yamaha, '67 Yamaha YG1TK, 80cc trail bike

Fuzzlewump

#114
Quote from: Rick G on April 20, 2013, 11:25:53 PM
I've read about that method for decades . Never worked well for me either. I use a heavy 14 inch punch , with flat end . I manage to catch the edge of the outer race and tap around the parameter , slowly moving the bearing out . This after heating the hub. Some ice chips in the center of the bearing helps too.

I tried this method and it worked! I was unable to get a good position on the outer race with a punch, so I used a 1/2 inch drive extension and just hit the inner race instead. I was very worried that I'd push the inner race out and leave the outer stuck in the hub. This didn't happen at all, the bearing came right out without a single ounce of resistance!!

Thanks for the millionth time....you guys are awesome.

I am posting a more detailed explanation of my efforts on my thread "Wheel bearing magic" for future readers....
Know ye not that ye are a gremlin?? Thou hast no quarter here- flee now from me!!

Rikugun

QuoteQuote from: Rikugun on April 20, 2013, 09:32:11 AM
   The trick is to get the inner spacer out of the way sufficiently to get a long drift (from the opposite side) against the inner race and drive it out with hammer blows directly on the metal drift.

Are you saying that if I remove the inner race of the bearing and the balls as well then the outer race will come out of the hub more easily?[/quote]

No, there is a "floating" spacer in between the bearings and contacts the inner race on both bearings. There is a flange on one end of it that helps keep it centered in the wheel hub. You can shift that spacer aside slightly  (usually the non flanged end is easier) exposing the inner race face. Once enough is exposed to get a long drift onto it from the other side, you can drive the bearing out. You're not going to reuse the bearing so don't worry about driving it out using the inner race. Once it and the spacer are removed there is much more room to work making the second one easier to remove. Depending on the rim you may even be able to drive against the outer race on the second bearing. Just go around the perimeter alternately hitting on one side then the other to evenly drive it out.

I've never bothered with heat or ice and not had any issues. The method you described from the Haynes manual seems quite difficult. Not many home shops have a heat source sufficient to raise the temps quickly to make that work. The factory manual mentions neither heat nor ice so I guess Yamaha isn't too concerned about it. The procedure should take minutes, not hours.   :)
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

Fuzzlewump

I did exactly as you just described, Riku, and it worked beautifully. I updated my previous wheel bearing thread to offer some reference for future readers. Thanks a ton!
Know ye not that ye are a gremlin?? Thou hast no quarter here- flee now from me!!

don_vanecek

I put it back together today, it runs!!!

pinholenz

QuoteQuote from: Rikugun on April 20, 2013, 09:32:11 AM
I just got rid of the unbelievable loud noise that a dry speedo bushing can make.  With the gauge upside down on the bench I took care to get oil into the small crack all the way around the bushing area, once I new I had it I used my drill motor to spin it so that the lube would make it everywhere still in the upside down position. .....
[/quote]
Also had the screaming speedo bushing today. Scared the daylights out of me - I fully expected the cam to seize up, Then I remembered this thread and relaxed. I did the Rikugun lube method tonight. Run the drill in reverse to have the speedo operate properly. I used a snug fitting drill mounted by the flutes so that the shank end was in the speedo female connection. Thanks Rikugun
Only one '82.5  eXtreme Zen 550

Tiger

Quote from: don_vanecek on April 21, 2013, 09:02:50 PM
I put it back together today, it runs!!!

8) SUUUUPERB news Don, well done my friend. How does she run/feel??

                          8) ....... TIGER .......  8)
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA lets go again baby !!!!!!

'82 Vision, Pearl Orange finish, lots of up-grades!!!