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Vision Tracker

Started by per_w_aberg, December 01, 2013, 06:21:04 AM

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The Prophet of Doom

We get similar Summer temperatures.  up to 32oC on a very hot day.  My fan has only gone on a couple of times and both when moving really really slowly.  I don't think it's as important as people might think.  Also... check out this thread on waterless coolants http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=14719.msg135246#msg135246

If you don't like that headlight too much, what about the one on the Blitz XT500 tracker which I think really suits the style. 





fret not

Per, I think your headlight bracket looks nice but will eventually fail.  Aluminium doesn't make good springs usually, and the weight of the headlight will tend to flex the bracket unless it is stiff sufficiently to prevent this.  Maybe steel would be a better choice, or a different mounting system incorporating some rubber to absorb the shock.  Or I could be all wrong. 8)
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

per_w_aberg

The water less coolant thread was a good read. Motocross riders are in to this and I'll ask my motocross dealer his opinion. For water temp reading I plan to use those thermo sensitive stripes on the radiator and it should not ad even a gram to the weight :)  The Blitz bike use a projector light, the new black. The still cost alot but should be available on car scraps. The best implemetation is on the beautiful So-Cal tracker

The light mount is a gamble for sure but use some high grade aluminum from a ATV skid plate shop so it should work for awhile although bending it like this probably weakens it . I keep reminding myself that this is version 0.1 and that it will be so much more inspiring to continue work once the bike is up and running, fingers crossed. Summer is coming along so I will have those feel-good moments wrenching outside on the porch.

The back light mount is on and only builds about 1 mm. Still no holes in the seat! My wife is doing jewelry craft so I used here silver to solder the nuts to the plate:) Seems I used 10 times more silver then needed so now I owe here she says.

per_w_aberg

Good luck must have hit me, or maybe I'm self convincing, the seat came out to my liking. Your supposed to not glue the cover to the foam for some reason but I found no other way with my limited skills.

fret not

It looks tidy.  Nice job.
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

per_w_aberg

#85
The exhaust flange bolts are broken of so I'm substituting one of the heads for a spare that followed the bike. The broken bolts could probably be extracted by the popular method of welding on the end of the broken bolt and then welding on a nut (as seen on YouTube)  but that's a gamble so I'm doing it right. Finally I'm a real mechanic! Here's your chance to see the YICS from inside. It's a hole that's supposed to give pulses to the incoming air to give it a swivel. The smaller hole is from the intake manifold. There's mixed reviews on the actual usefulness her at ROV. I'm losing it on my bike for a cleaner look.

fret not

Exhaust valve seats look pitted. :police:
Maybe it is just the way the picture looks, so inspect it carefully.
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

per_w_aberg

Damn you, this is a design project! OK then, you're right, the seats were pitted but that's sorted now with some fine grit lapping. I think I needed the reminder. Now lets see what happened to valve clearance. Between the 3 heads floating around hopefully there's shims to cover me.

fret not

Per, I don't mean to cause you problems, but instead to help prevent problems.  Your bike looks good, so I hope it rides well too. 8)
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

per_w_aberg

#89
That's me trying to make a joke, there might have been some vine involved to. I think you actually might have saved me!  :P. I value every comment. The bike gets shipped of to my welder for the exhaust to be built. Good enough is the goal, I'll save the show version of the exhaust for the future. It will be wrapped. I'm not sure how important a good collector is, can you mate one pipe in a T-joint or is a Y-joint important? Looking at the radical exhaust at http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=11572.0 makes you wonder, it looks rad.
The head came on nicely. My cheap torc wrench got calibrated diy style, it requires only simple math to calculate the weight and it read ok. If your in to fishing you could probably use your fish scale directly on a regular wrench in the same fashion. 
There seems to be a more clever way to build a light pipe rear light. The pictured led stripe is only 2 mm thick and is "side throw" and is stick-on. time to get creative.

pinholenz

#90
This  Vision Tracker has come up for sale in New Zealand and I thought you would be interested in the way it has been styled. 

I love the rear set peg setup and the conversion of the drum brake to hydraulic. Up front the brakes look pretty standard. (550 engine in a 400 frame?) Nice job on the tank, clip-ons and detailing. The overflow looks like a bit of Kiwi ingenuity as well. The seller says it has only been to the track once. He's asking NZ$3500.  What a lovely head-turner

If I had money for toys, I would be sorely tempted!!
Only one '82.5  eXtreme Zen 550

pinholenz

Only one '82.5  eXtreme Zen 550

The Prophet of Doom

I always thought you were supposed to hang the weights 1 foot from the centre.  Then 70 lbs weight = 70 ft lbs
No idea about calibrating in metric though. Do you need to do calculations?

per_w_aberg

Wow that's a sharp looking bike! Thanks for posting them pics. Nice lines and not a ton of structural mods it seems. Did he open up the heavy sheet reinforcement at the stearing head? That's one thing i concider , other jap bikes are not as heavily reinforced there. Regarding torq it takes half the weight for twice the length, say you aim for 10 ft/lbs you need 5 lb for a wrench 2 ft long. In metric the given length is I meter and the wrench is .4 m so I upped the weight by 2.5 so to speak. Oh and for torq in metric the weight I measured  in Newton, 1 kg= 9.8 N. I think they use metric in heaven.

per_w_aberg

High time for a update! The exhaust took forever but now its game. I used Hooker 1 1/2" bends, the perfect fit for the stock pipes. I now have the double wall pipes the first bit in front and the stock header in the back, though cut a bit. Maybe that will help speed up the exhaust velocity that seem to aid low rpm response?  Cudos to my welder that pulled it off. I wouldn't  mind a more elaborate pipe routing for a tighter look but this is what we got and I think it rocks. Is it strange to have exhaust gasses traveling the "wrong way" (forward) in a motorcycle?? You don't see it every day.  Oh, and there is a split under the engine so it can be detached with some work. I'll paint it with alu spray and use black wrap for that high performance look. The stripped wheels are on with new bearings and seals as are tapered steering bearings. Now I'm waiting for my m-Unit and a lightweight battery that will go under the tank, as will the rectifier. It looks as I'll be able to hide most of the electrics. I've put a hydraulic clutch on hold  though it seems quite doable now with the popular "pit bike hydraulic clutch". That could be a nice upgrade for anyone I guess? Bye for now.

The Prophet of Doom

#95
Great looking exhaust - I'm going off my predator now.  I tried wrap on my Spec2s It didn't look as good in real life as it does in the pictures.  Black ceramic coating looks a lot better in my opinion, and not much dearer.

You won't regret the m-unit.  You had might as well get the instruction book and start re-wiring your switchgear now as the M-unit needs them all to switch to ground.  I decided it best to use the flash to pass for all headlight functions and re-purposed some of the other switches.  I got the M-button, so it's just a single digital signal back to the m-unit.  There's enough room in the left hand switch block to hide the button - see Post #228 on my thread HERE.

Hydraulic clutch.  Hmmmmm

fret not

This is all looking very good, so far.  Are any heat shields planned for the exhaust?
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

Rikugun

Looks like he did a good job on the exhaust. I wasn't aware of those hydraulic to cable units for clutch - very interesting. Did the pipe routing make fitting that impossible? It looks like even the cable will be a tight fit?
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

per_w_aberg

#98
There is definitely need for a heat shield and here's what I came up with. It's still going to be a bit of a struggle with the heat but I'll just have to judge this bike from different standards and I'll be fine. I feel good wrapping the exhaust discarding any finish on the pipes. Maybe lazyness is what causes the increasing popularity? The electro blur is starting to clear and I found a spot for the R/R and the battery. For your entertainment I'm throwing in a picture of tomatoes growing. Maybe the could be my build meter, when the are ready the bikes ready? Oh, and bytton wise I-m doing  "Configuration E" that only requires 2 push buttons and a momentary toggle switch, that's it I think. M-unit is a clever device!

- turn lights left - toggle left
- turn lights right - toggle right
- low beam / high beam - push button
- horn - push button
- start = toggle left + light simultaneously
- kill switch = toggle right + light simultaneously

There's a sweet little toggle switch with a two color led lit "toggle pin" that could eliminate high beam control light but I opted for rubber seals on the switch/buttons and the are so small I plan to wiggle them into the handlebars and up through holes but that could need rethinking.

The Prophet of Doom

Nice heat shield.  Matching bash plate perhaps?